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OUTING  ADVENTURE  LIBRARY 

WILD   LIFE    IN   THE 
ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

BY  GEORGE  FREDERICK  RUXTON 

A  True  Tale  of  Rough  Adventure 
in  the  Days  of  the  Mexican  War 

EDITED  BY 

HORACE  KEPHART 


NEW  YORK 
OUTING  PUBLISHING  COMPANY 

MCMXVI 


Copyright  1916  by 
OUTING  PUBLISHING  COMPANY 

All  rights  reserved. 


INTRODUCTION 

The  present  volume  is  a  continuation  of 
"Adventures  in  Mexico,"  by  Lieutenant  Ruxton 
which  precedes  it  in  this  Library  of  Adventure. 

Here  we  take  up  the  story  of  our  author's 
journey  northward  from  Chihuahua  to  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Passing  through  treeless 
deserts,  where  he  and  his  animals  suffered  much 
from  lack  of  water,  he  arrived  at  Valverde,  and 
there  met  the  advanced  post  of  the  American 
army,  which  had  invaded  Mexico  after  the 
declaration  of  war  in  May  of  this  year,  1846. 
At  this  place  Ruxton's  servants  left  him,  and 
thenceforth  he  had  to  shift  for  himself. 

In  December  he  reached  Santa  Fe.  Shortly 
before  New  Year's  day,  after  a  hard  journey, 
in  which  he  froze  one  of  his  feet,  and  was  mis- 
treated by  the  New  Mexicans,  he  crossed  the 
United  States  boundary  line.  Winter  travel 
in  the  mountains  was  extremely  trying;  but  he 
pushed  on,  and,  at  the  Arkansas  River,  fell  in 
with  typical  "mountain  men,"  as  the  hunters 
and  trappers  of  the  Far  West  were  called. 
Taking  a  course  up  the  Fontaine-qui-bouille,  he 
finally  gained  the  famous  hunting  ground  of  the 
Bayou  Salado,  now  known  as  South  Park 
(Colorado).  In  this  sportsman's  paradise  he 
remained  for  the  rest  of  the  winter. 

7 


8  INTRODUCTION 

Early  in  May,  1847,  he  started,  in  company 
of  a  wagon-train,  for  Missouri.  From  Chou- 
teau's  Island  to  Coon  Creek  the  caravan  passed, 
day  by  day,  through  countless  herds  of  buffalo, 
which  covered  the  plains  in  such  incredible 
numbers  that  in  one  place,  over  a  space  thirty 
miles  long  by  sixteen  wide,  the  spectators  could 
not  see  anywhere  an  unoccupied  patch  of  grass 
ten  yards  square. 

At  Fort  Leavenworth  the  traveler  at  last 
fell  hi  with  civilized  society,  but  was  mistaken 
for  an  Indian  chief,  owing  to  his  bronzed  visage 
and  barbaric  dress  of  fringed  buckskins.  Here 
he  took  passage  on  a  steamboat  down  the 
Missouri  River  to  St.  Louis.  By  boat  and 
stage-coach  and  rail  he  then  proceeded,  via 
Chicago  and  Detroit,  to  New  York,  and  then 
set  sail  for  England,  where  he  arrived  in  August, 
1847,  after  one  of  the  most  venturesome  and 
difficult  tours  that  had  been  made  within  his 
generation. 

He  tarried  in  England  just  long  enough 
to  see  his  books  through  the  press,  and 
then  set  forth  once  more  for  wildest  America. 
Alas!  it  was  not  granted  that  he  should  camp 
again  in  his  beloved  Bayou  Salado.  At  St. 
Louis  he  was  stricken  with  a  mortal  ailment. 
He  died  in  the  old  Planter's  House,  in  Sep- 
tember, 1848,  at  the  age  of  twenty-eight,  and 
was  buried  near  the  Father  of  Waters. 


INTRODUCTION  9 

A  sketch  of  the  author's  life  was  published 
in  the  first  volume  of  this  Library  (his  "In  the 
Old  West"). 

Ruxton  was  one  of  those  children  of  nature 
of  whom  Parkman  wrote: — 

"  Thus  to  look  back  with  a  fond  longing  to  in- 
hospitable deserts,  where  man,  beasts,  and 
Nature  herself,  seem  arrayed  in  arms,  and  where 
ease,  security,  and  all  that  civilization  reckons 
among  the  goods  of  life,  are  alike  cut  off,  may 
appear  to  argue  some  strange  perversity  or 
moral  malformation.  Yet  such  has  been  the 
experience  of  many  a  sound  and  healthful 
mind. 

"To  him  who  has  once  tasted  the  reckless 
independence,  the  haughty  self-reliance,  the 
sense  of  irresponsible  freedom;  which  the  forest 
life  engenders,  civilization  thenceforth  seems 
flat  and  stale.  Its  pleasures  are  insipid,  its 
pursuits  wearisome,  its  conventionalities,  duties, 
and  mutual  dependence  alike  tedious  and  dis- 
gusting. The  entrapped  wanderer  grows  fierce 
and  restless,  and  pants  for  breathing-room. 
His  path,  it  is  true,  was  choked  with  difficulties, 
but  his  body  and  soul  were  hardened  to  meet 
them;  it  was  beset  with  dangers,  but  these  were 
the  very  spice  of  his  life,  gladdening  his  heart 
with  exulting  self-confidence,  and  sending  the 
blood  through  his  veins  with  a  livelier  current. 
The  wilderness,  rough,  harsh,  and  inexorable, 


10  INTRODUCTION 

has  charms  more  potent  in  their  seductive 
influence  than  all  the  lures  of  luxury  and  sloth; 
and  often  he  upon  whom  it  has  cast  its  magic 
finds  no  heart  to  dissolve  the  spell,  and  remains 
a  wanderer  and  an  Ishmaelite  to  the  hour  of  his 
death." 

Ruxton's  short  life  was  so  crowded  with 
activities  in  the  field  that  he  had  little  time  for 
composition  or  revision,  and  his  writings  have 
needed  careful  editing.  This  has  been  given 
to  them  in  the  Outing  Adventure  Library,  but 
it  has  been  limited  to  translations,  footnotes, 
and  corrections  of  errors. 

HORACE  KEPHART. 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTEB  PAGE 

I    OUT  OF  OLD  MEXICO 13 

II  THE  JOURNEY  OF  THE  DEAD     ...     24 

III  TRAVELLING  WITH  THE  ENGINEERS      .     51 

IV  LAND  OF  THE  PUEBLOS 61 

V    MEXICAN  GRATITUDE 79 

VI    INTO  THE  MOUNTAINS 98 

VII  BLIZZARD  IN  SOUTH  PARK         .     .     .119 

VIII  THE  BEAVER  AND  His  TRAPPER    .     .  146 

IX  AMONG  THE  SPRINGS       .     .     .     .     .170 

X  PASSING  OF  THE  BUFFALO   .      .     .     .192 

XI  BIG  GAME  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS      .     .  198 

XII  BIRDS  OF  PASSAGE  AT  BENT'S  FORT  .     .221 

XIII  HEADING  FOR  HOME 231 

XIV  A  BUFFALO  LANDSCAPE 256 

XV  AT  THE  END  OF  THE  TRAIL      .     .     .  269 

XVI    THE  MEXICAN  WAR 285 

XVII  MEN  AND  MANNERS  .                           .  295 


WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY 
MOUNTAINS 

CHAPTER  I 

OUT  OF  OLD  MEXICO 

ON  the  10th  of  November  [1846]  I  left 
Chihuahua,  bound  for  the  capital  of 
New  Mexico.  Passing  the  Rancho  del 
Sacramento,  where  a  few  months  after  the 
Missourians  slaughtered  a  host  of  Mexicans,  we 
entered  a  large  plain  well  covered  with  grass, 
on  which  were  immense  flocks  of  sheep.  A 
coyote  lazily  crossed  the  road,  and,  stopping 
within  a  few  yards,  sat  down  upon  its  haunches, 
and  coolly  regarded  us  as  we  passed.  Panchito 
had  had  a  four  days'  rest,  and  was  in  fine  con- 
dition and  spirits,  and  I  determined  to  try  the 
mettle  of  the  wolf;  the  level  plain,  with  its 
springy  turf,  offering  a  fine  field  for  a  course. 

Cantering  gently  at  first,  the  coyote  allowed 
me  to  approach  within  a  hundred  yards  before 
he  loped  lazily  away;  but  finding  I  was  on  his 
traces,  he  looked  round,  and,  gathering  himself 
up,  bowled  away  at  full  speed.  Then  I  gave 
Panchito  the  spur,  and,  answering  it  with  a 

bound,  we  were  soon  at  the  stern  of  the  wolf. 

13 


14       WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

Then,  for  the  first  time,  the  animal  saw  we  were 
in  earnest,  and,  with  a  sweep  of  his  bushy  tail, 
pushed  for  his  life  across  the  plain. 

At  the  distance  of  two  or  three  miles  a  rocky 
ridge  was  in  sight,  where  he  evidently  thought 
to  secure  a  retreat,  but  Panchito  bounded  along 
like  the  wind  itself,  and  soon  proved  to  the  wolf 
that  his  race  was  run.  After  trying  in  vain  to 
double,  he  made  one  desperate  rush,  upon  which, 
lifting  Panchito  with  rein  and  leg,  came  up 
and  passed  the  panting  beast,  when,  seeing  that 
escape  was  impossible,  he  lay  down,  and  with 
sullen  and  cowardly  resignation,  curled  up  for 
the  expected  blow,  as,  pistol  in  hand,  I  reined 
up  Panchito  at  his  side.  However,  I  was  merci- 
ful, and  allowed  the  animal  to  escape. 

At  ten  at  night  I  arrived  at  the  hacienda  of 
El  Sauz,  belonging  to  the  Governor  of  Chihua- 
hua, Don  Angel  Trias.  It  was  enclosed  with  a 
high  wall,  as  a  protection  from  the  Indians,  who, 
a  short  time  before,  had  destroyed  the  cattle  of 
the  hacienda,  filling  a  well  in  the  middle  of  the 
corral  with  the  carcases  of  slaughtered  sheep 
and  oxen.  It  was  still  bricked  up. 

The  next  day  we  proceeded  to  another  haci- 
enda, likewise  called  after  the  willows,  Los 
Sauzillos.  Passing  a  large  plain,  in  the  midst 
of  which  stood  a  lone  poplar,  wolves  were  con- 
tinually crossing  the  road,  both  the  coyote  and 
the  large  grey  variety.  I  was  this  day  mounted 


OUT  OF  OLD  MEXICO  15 

upon  the  alazan  [roan]  which  I  had  purchased 
at  Guajoquilla.  We  were  within  sight  of  our 
halting-place  for  the  night,  when  the  horse, 
which  had  carried  me  all  day  without  my 
having  had  recourse  to  whip  or  spur,  suddenly 
began  to  flag,  and  I  noticed  that  a  profuse 
perspiration  had  broken  out  on  its  ears  and  neck. 
I  instantly  dismounted,  and  perceived  a  quiver- 
ing in  the  flank  and  a  swelling  of  the  belly. 
Before  I  could  remove  the  saddle  the  poor 
beast  fell  down,  and,  although  I  opened  a  vein 
and  made  every  attempt  to  relieve  it,  it  once 
more  rose  to  its  legs,  and,  spinning  round  in  the 
greatest  apparent  agony,  fell  dead  to  the  ground. 

The  cause  of  its  death  was,  that  my  servant, 
contrary  to  my  orders,  had  given  the  animals 
young  corn  the  night  before,  which  food  is 
often  fatal  to  horses  not  accustomed  to  feed  on 
grain. 

This  rancho  is  situated  on  the  margin  of  a 
lake  of  brackish  water,  and  we  found  the  people 
actual  prisoners  within  its  walls,  the  gates 
being  closed,  and  a  man  stationed  on  the  azotea 
with  a  large  wall-piece,  looking  out  for  Indians. 
At  night  a  large  fire  was  kindled  on  the  roof,  the 
blaze  of  which  illuminated  the  country  far  and 
near.  Not  a  soul  would  venture  after  sunset 
outside  the  gate,  which  the  majordomo,  a 
Gachupin,  refused  to  open  to  allow  my  servant 
to  procure  some  wood  for  a  fire  to  cook  my 


1 6       WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

supper,  and  we  had  to  content  ourselves  with 
one  of  corncobs,  which  lay  scattered  about  the 
corral. 

On  the  12th,  passing  Encinillas,  a  large 
hacienda  belonging  to  Don  Angel  Trias,  we 
encamped  on  the  banks  of  an  arroyo,  running 
through  the  middle  of  a  plain,  walled  by  sierras, 
where  the  Apaches  had  several  villages.  This 
being  very  dangerous  ground,  we  put  out  the 
fire  at  sunset,  and  took  all  precautions  against 
surprise.  The  animals  fared  badly,  the  grass 
being  thin  and  burned  up  by  the  sun,  and  what 
little  there  was  being  of  bad  quality. 

The  next  day  we  reached  the  small  village 
of  El  Carmen,  and,  camping  by  a  little  thread 
of  a  rivulet  outside  of  the  town,  were  surrounded 
by  all  the  loafers  of  the  village.  The  night  was 
very  cold,  and  our  fire,  the  fuel  for  which  we 
purchased,  was  completely  surrounded  by  these 
idle  vagabonds.  At  last,  my  temper  being 
frozen  out  of  me,  I  went  up  to  the  fire,  and  said, 
"Senores,  allow  me  to  present  you  with  three 
rials,  which  will  enable  you  to  purchase  wood 
for  two  fires;  this  fire  I  will  be  obliged  to  you 
if  you  will  allow  myself  and  fellow-travellers  to 
warm  ourselves  by,  as  we  are  very  cold;  and  also, 
with  your  kind  permission,  wish  to  cook  our 
suppers  by  it."  This  was  enough  for  them:  a 
Mexican,  like  a  Spaniard,  is  very  sensitive,  and 
the  hint  went  through  them.  They  immediate- 


OUT  OF  OLD  MEXICO  17 

ly  dispersed,  and  I  saw  no  more  of  them  the 
remainder  of  the  evening. 

Near  El  Carmen  is  a  pretty  little  stream, 
fringed  with  alamos,  which  runs  through  a 
wild  and  broken  country  of  sierras.  The  plains, 
generally  about  ten  to  twenty  miles  in  length, 
are  divided  from  each  other  by  an  elevated 
ridge,  but  there  is  no  perceptible  difference  in 
the  elevation  of  them  from  Chihuahua  to  El 
Paso.  The  road  is  level  excepting  in  crossing 
these  ridges,  and  hard  everywhere  except  on  the 
marshy  plain  of  Encinillas,  which  is  often  in- 
undated. This  lake  has  no  outlet,  and  is  fed 
by  numerous  small  streams  from  the  sierras;  its 
length  is  ten  miles,  by  three  in  breadth.  The 
marshy  ground  around  the  lake  is  covered  with 
an  alkaline  efflorescence  called  tezquite,  a 
substance  of  considerable  value.  The  water, 
impregnated  with  salts,  is  brackish  and  un- 
pleasant to  the  taste,  but  in  the  rainy  season 
loses  its  disagreeable  properties. 

On  the  14th  we  travelled  sixty  miles,  and 
camped  on  a  bare  plain  without  wood  or  water, 
the  night  being  so  dark  that  we  were  unable  to 
reach  Carrizal,  although  it  was  but  a  few  miles 
distant  from  our  encampment.  The  next 
morning  we  reached  the  village,  where  I  stopped 
the  whole  day,  during  an  extraordinary  hurri- 
cane of  wind,  which  rendered  travelling  im- 
possible. We  had  been  on  short  commons  for 


18        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

two  days,  as  the  hungry  escort  had  devoured 
my  provisions,  but  here  I  resolved  to  have  a 
feast,  and,  setting  all  hands  to  forage,  on  return 
we  found  our  combined  efforts  had  produced  an 
imposing  pile  of  several  yards  of  beef  (for  here 
the  meat  is  cut  into  long  strips  and  dried), 
onions,  chiles,  frijoles,  sweet  corn,  eggs,  &c. 
An  enormous  olla  [earthen  pot]  was  procured, 
and  everything  was  bundled  pell-mell  into  it, 
seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt  and  chile. 

To  protect  the  fire  from  the  hurricane  that 
was  blowing,  all  the  packs  and  saddles  were 
piled  round  it,  and  my  servant  and  the  soldiers 
relieved  each  other  in  their  vigilant  watch  of 
the  precious  compound,  myself  superintending 
the  process  of  cooking.  Our  appetites,  raven- 
ous with  a  fast  of  twenty-four  hours,  were  in 
first-rate  order,  but  we  determined  that  the  pot 
should  be  left  on  the  fire  until  the  savory  mess 
was  perfectly  cooked.  It  was  within  an  hour 
or  two  of  sunset,  and  we  had  not  yet  broken 
our  fast.  The  olla  simmered,  and  a  savory 
steam  pervaded  the  air.  The  dragoons  licked 
their  lips,  and  their  eyes  watered — never  had 
they  had  such  a  feast  in  perspective;  for  myself, 
I  never  removed  my  eyes  from  the  pot,  and  had 
just  resolved  that,  when  the  puro  in  my  mouth 
was  smoked  out,  the  pucker o*  would  have 
attained  perfection.  At  length  the  moment 

*  A  Spanish  dish  made  from  meat  and  vegetables.     (Ed.) 


OUT  OF  OLD  MEXICO  19 

arrived:  my  mozo,  with  a  blazing  smile,  ap- 
proached the  fire,  and  with  guarded  hands 
seized  the  top  of  the  olla,  and  lifted  it  from  the 
ashes. 

"Ave  Maria  Purissima!  Santissima  Virgen!" 
broke  from  the  lips  of  the  dragoons;  "Mil 
carajos!"  burst  from  the  heart  of  the  mozo;  and 
I  sank  almost  senseless  to  the  ground.  On 
lifting  the  pot  the  bottom  fell  out,  and  splash 
went  everything  into  the  blazing  fire.  Valgame 
Dios!  what  a  moment  was  that!  Stupefied,  and 
hardly  crediting  our  senses,  we  gazed  at  the 
burning,  frizzling,  hissing  remnants,  as  they 
were  consuming  before  our  eyes.  Nothing  was 
rescued,  and  our  elaborate  feast  was  simplified 
into  a  supper  of  frijoles  and  chile  Colorado, 
which,  after  some  difficulty,  we  procured  from 
the  village. 

The  next  morning  we  started  before  daylight, 
and  at  sunrise  watered  our  animals  at  the  little 
lake  called  Laguna  de  Patos,  from  the  ducks 
which  frequent  it;  and  at  midday  we  halted  at 
another  spring,  the  Ojo  de  la  Estrella — star 
spring — where  we  again  watered  them,  as  we 
should  be  obliged  to  camp  that  night  without 
water.  We  chose  a  camping-ground  in  a  large 
plain  covered  with  mezquit,  which  afforded  us  a 
little  fuel — now  become  very  necessary,  as  the 
nights  were  piercingly  cold.  As  we  had  been 
unable  to  procure  provisions  in  Carrizal,  we 


20        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

went  to  bed  supperless,  which  was  now  a  very 
usual  occurrence.  My  animals  suffered  from  the 
cold,  which,  coming  as  they  did  from  the  tierra 
caliente,  they  felt  excessively,  particularly  a 
little  blood  horse  with  an  exceedingly  fine  coat. 
I  was  obliged  to  share  my  blankets  with  this 
poor  animal,  or  I  believe  it  would  have  died  in 
the  night. 

Just  at  daybreak  the  next  morning  I  was  rid- 
ing in  advance  of  the  party,  when  I  met  a 
cavalcade  of  horsemen  whose  wild  costume, 
painted  faces,  and  arms  consisting  of  bows  and 
arrows,  made  me  think  at  first  that  they  were 
Indians.  On  their  part,  they  evidently  did  not 
know  what  to  make  of  me,  and  halted  while 
two  of  them  rode  forward  to  reconnoitre.  I 
quickly  slipped  the  cover  off  my  rifle,  and  ad- 
vanced. Seeing  my  escort  following,  they  saw 
we  were  amigos;  but  the  nearer  they  approached 
me,  the  more  certain  was  I  that  they  were 
Apaches  for  they  were  all  in  Indian  dress,  and 
frightfully  painted.  I  was  as  nearly  as  possible 
shooting  the  foremost,  when  he  exclaimed  in 
Spanish,  "Adios,  amigo!  que  novedades  hay?" — 
and  I  then  saw  a  number  of  mules,  packed  with 
bales  and  barrels,  behind  him.  They  were 
Pasenos,  on  their  way  to  Chihuahua,  with 
aguardiente,  raisins,  and  fruit;  and  shortly  after 
passing  them,  I  found  in  the  road  a  large  bag 
of  pazas  or  raisins,  which  I  pounced  upon  as  a 


OUT  OF  OLD  MEXICO  21 

great  prize,  and,  waiting  until  the  escort  came 
up,  we  dismounted,  and,  sitting  at  the  roadside, 
devoured  the  fruit  with  great  gusto,  as  this  was 
our  second  day  of  banyan.  This  bag  lasted 
for  many  days.  I  found  the  raisins  a  great 
improvement  to  stews,  &c.,  and  we  popped  a 
handful  or  two  into  every  dish. 

At  ten  o'clock  we  reached  a  muddy  hole  of 
water,  entirely  frozen — my  animals  refusing  to 
drink,  being  afraid  of  the  ice  after  we  had  broken 
it.  The  water  was  as  thick  as  pea-soup; 
nevertheless  we  filled  our  linages  with  it,  as  we 
should  probably  meet  with  none  so  good  that 
day.  Towards  sunset  we  passed  a  most  extra- 
ordinary mountain  of  loose  shifting  sand,  three 
miles  in  breadth,  and,  according  to  the  Pasenos, 
sixty  in  length.  The  huge  rolling  mass  of  sand 
is  nearly  destitute  of  vegetation,  save  here  and 
there  a  bunch  of  greasewood  half -buried  in  the 
sand.  Road  there  is  none,  but  a  track  across 
is  marked  by  the  skeletons  and  dead  bodies  of 
oxen,  and  of  mules  and  horses,  which  every- 
where meet  the  eye.  On  one  ridge  the  upper 
half  of  a  human  skeleton  protruded  from  the 
sand,  and  bones  of  animals  and  carcases  in 
every  stage  of  decay.  The  sand  is  knee-deep, 
and  constantly  shifting,  and  pack-animals  have 
great  difficulty  in  passing. 

After  sunset  we  reached  a  dirty,  stagnant 
pool,  known  as  the  Ojo  de  Malayuca;  but,  as 


22        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

there  was  not  a  blade  of  grass  in  the  vicinity, 
we  were  compelled  to  turn  out  of  the  road  and 
search  over  the  arid  plain  for  a  patch  to  camp 
in.  At  last  we  succeeded  in  finding  a  spot, 
and  encamped,  without  wood,  water,  or  supper, 
being  the  second  day's  fast.  The  next  day, 
passing  a  broken  country,  perfectly  barren,  we 
struck  into  the  valley  of  El  Paso,  and  for  the 
first  time  I  saw  the  well-timbered  bottom  of  the 
Rio  Bravo  del  Norte.  Descending  a  ridge 
covered  with  greasewood  and  mezquit,  we 
entered  the  little  village  of  El  Paso,  with  its 
vineyards  and  orchards  and  well-cultivated 
gardens  lying  along  the  right  bank  of  the  river. 
On  entering  the  plaza  I  was  immediately 
surrounded  by  a  crowd,  for  my  escort  had  ridden 
before  me  and  mystified  them  with  wonderful 
accounts  of  my  importance.  However,  as  I  did 
not  choose  to  enlighten  them  as  to  my  destina- 
tion or  the  object  of  my  journey,  they  were  fain 
to  rest  satisfied  with  the  egregious  lies  of  the 
dragones.  In  the  plaza  was  a  little  guard- 
house, where  a  ferocious  captain  was  in  command 
of  a  dirty  dozen  or  two  of  soldados.  This 
worthy,  to  show  his  importance,  sent  a  sergeant 
to  order  my  instant  attendance  at  the  guard- 
room. In  as  many  words  I  told  the  astonished 
messenger  to  tell  his  officer  "to  go  to  the  devil;" 
to  his  horror,  and  the  delight  of  the  surrounding 
crowd.  The  answer  was  delivered  word  for 


OUT  OF  OLD  MEXICO  23 

word,  but  I  heard  no  more  from  the  military 
hero.  My  next  visitor  was  the  prefecto,  who  is 
an  important  personage  in  a  small  place.  That 
worthy,  with  a  dignified  air,  asked  in  a  deter- 
mined tone,  as  much  as  to  say  to  the  crowd 
"See  how  soon  I  will  learn  his  business" — 

"Por  onde  pasa  usted,  caballero? — Where  are 
you  bound?" 

"Por  Santa  Fe  y  Nuevo  Mejico,"  I  answered. 

"No,  senor,"  he  immediately  rejoined,  "this 
cannot  be  permitted :  by  the  order  of  the  Gover- 
nor no  one  is  allowed  to  go  to  the  north;  and 
I  must  request,  moreover,  that  you  exhibit  your 
passport  and  other  documentos." 

"Hi  lo  tiene  usted — here  you  have  it" — I 
answered,  producing  a  credential  which  at 
once  caused  the  hat  to  fly  from  his  head,  and 
an  offer  of  himself,  "su  casa,  y  todo  lo  que  tiene,  a 
mi  disposition — his  house,  and  all  in  it,  at  my 
disposal."  However,  all  his  munificent  offers 
were  declined,  as  I  had  letters  to  the  cura,  a 
young  priest  named  Ortiz,  whose  unbounded 
hospitality  I  enjoyed  during  my  stay. 


CHAPTER  II 

THE  JOURNEY  OF  THE  DEAD 

EL  PASO  DEL  NORTE,  so  called  from 
the  ford  of  that  river,  which  is  here  first 
struck  and  crossed  on  the  way  to  New 
Mexico,  is  the  oldest  settlement  in  Northern 
Mexico,  a  mission  having  been  established  there 
by  el  padre  Fray  Augustine  Ruiz,  one  of  the 
Franciscan  monks  who  first  visited  New  Mexico, 
as  early  as  the  close  of  the  sixteenth  century 
(about  the  year  1585).  Fray  Ruiz,  in  company 
with  two  others,  named  Venabides  and  Marcos, 
discovering  in  the  natives  a  laudable  disposition 
to  receive  the  word  of  God  and  embrace  "la 
santafe  Catolica,"  remained  here  a  considerable 
time,  preaching  by  signs  to  the  Indians,  and 
making  many  miraculous  conversions.  Event- 
ually, Venabides  having  returned  to  Spain  and 
given  a  glowing  account  of  the  riches  of  the 
country,  and  the  muy  buen  indole — the  very 
proper  disposition  of  the  aborigines — Don  Juan 
Onate  was  despatched  to  conquer,  take  pos- 
session of,  and  govern  the  remote  colony,  and  on 
his  way  to  Santa  Fe  established  a  permanent 

settlement  at  El  Paso.     Twelve  families  from 

24 


THE  JOURNEY  OF  THE  DEAD  25 

Old  Castile  accompanied  Onate  to  Nuevo  Mejico 
to  form  a  colony,  and  their  descendants  still 
remain  scattered  over  the  province. 

Several  years  after,  when  the  Spanish  colonists 
were  driven  out  of  New  Mexico,  they  retreated 
to  El  Paso,  where  they  erected  a  fortification, 
and  maintained  themselves  until  the  arrival 
of  reinforcements  from  Mexico.  The  present 
settlement  is  scattered  for  about  fifteen  miles 
along  the  right  bank  of  the  Del  Norte,  and 
contains  five  or  six  thousand  inhabitants.  The 
plaza,  or  village,  of  El  Paso,  is  situated  at  the 
head  of  the  valley,  and  at  the  other  extremity 
is  the  presidio  of  San  Eleazario.  Between  the 
two  is  a  continued  line  of  adobe  houses,  with 
their  plots  of  garden  and  vineyard. 

The  farms  seldom  contain  more  than  twenty 
acres,  each  family  having  a  separate  house  and 
plot  of  land. 

The  Del  Norte  is  dammed  about  a  mile  above 
the  ford,  and  water  is  conveyed  by  an  acequia 
madre — main  canal — to  irrigate  the  valley. 
From  this  acequia,  other  smaller  ones  branch 
out  in  every  direction,  until  the  land  is  inter- 
sected in  every  part  with  dykes,  and  is  thus 
rendered  fertile  and  productive. 

The  soil  produces  wheat,  maize,  and  other 
grains,  and  is  admirably  adapted  to  the  growth 
of  the  vine,  which  is  cultivated  here,  and  yields 
abundantly;  and  a  wine  of  excellent  flavor  is 


26        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

made  from  the  grapes.  Brandy  of  a  tolerable 
quality  is  also  manufactured,  and,  under  the 
name  of  aguardiente  del  Paso,  is  highly  esteemed 
in  Durango  and  Chihuahua.  Under  proper 
management  wine-making  here  might  become 
a  very  profitable  branch  of  trade,  as  the  interior 
of  Mexico  is  now  supplied  with  French  wines, 
the  cost  of  which,  owing  to  the  long  land- 
carriage  from  the  seaports,  is  enormous,  and 
wine  might  be  made  from  the  Paso  grape  equal 
to  the  best  growths  of  France  or  Spain.  Fruits 
of  all  kinds,  common  to  temperate  regions, 
and  vegetables,  are  abundant  and  of  good  qual- 
ity. 

The  river  bottom  is  timbered  with  cotton- 
woods,  which  extend  a  few  hundred  yards  on 
each  side  the  banks.  The  river  itself  is  here  a 
small  turbid  stream,  with  water  of  a  muddy  red, 
but  in  the  season  of  the  rains  it  is  swollen  to 
six  times  its  present  breadth,  and  frequently 
overflows  the  banks.  It  is  of  fordable  depth  in 
almost  any  part;  but,  from  the  constantly 
shifting  quicksands  and  bars,  is  always  difficult, 
and  often  dangerous,  to  cross  with  loaded  wag- 
ons. It  abounds  with  fish  and  eels  of  large 
size.  The  houses  of  the  Pasenos  are  built  of  the 
adobe,  and  are  small  but  clean  and  neatly  kept. 
Here,  as  everywhere  else  in  Northern  Mexico, 
the  people  are  in  constant  fear  of  Indian  attacks, 
and,  from  the  frequent  devastations  of  the 


THE  JOURNEY  OF  THE  DEAD  27 

Apaches,  the  valley  has  been  almost  swept 
of  horses,  mules,  and  cattle.  The  New  Mexicans 
too,  disguised  as  Indians,  often  plunder  these 
settlements  (as  occurred  during  my  visit,  when 
two  were  captured),  and  frequently  accompany 
the  Apaches  in  their  raids  on  the  state  of 
Chihuahua. — Cosas  de  Mejico! 

At  this  time  the  Pasenos  had  enrolled  them- 
selves into  a  body  of  troops  termed  auxiliares, 
700  strong;  but  in  spite  of  them  the  Apaches 
attacked  a  mulada  at  the  outskirts  of  the  town, 
and,  but  for  the  bravery  of  two  negroes,  runaway 
slaves  from  the  Cherokee  nation,  would  have 
succeeded  in  carrying  off  the  whole  herd;  this 
was  during  my  stay  in  this  part  of  the  country. 
One  of  the  herders  was  killed,  but  the  negroes, 
when  the  animals  were  already  in  the  hands  of 
the  Indians,  seized  their  rifles  and  came  to  the 
rescue,  succeeding  in  recapturing  the  mulada. 

At  El  Paso  I  found  four  Americans,  prisoners 
at  large.  They  had  arrived  here  on  their  way 
to  California,  with  a  mountain  trapper  as  their 
guide,  who,  from  some  disagreement  respecting 
the  amount  of  pay  he  was  to  receive,  thought 
proper  to  revenge  himself  by  denouncing  them 
as  spies,  and  they  were  consequently  thrown 
into  prison.  It  being  subsequently  discovered 
that  the  informer  had  committed  the  most 
barefaced  perjury,  these  men  were  released,  and 
the  denouncer  confined  in  their  stead — quite  an 


28        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

un-Mexican  act  of  justice.  However,  as  they 
had  arrived  unprovided  with  passports,  they 
were  detained  as  prisoners,  although  permitted 
to  go  at  large  about  the  place,  living,  or  rather 
existing,  on  charity.  Their  baggage  had  been 
taken  from  them,  their  animals  sold,  and  they 
were  left  to  shift  for  themselves.  I  endeavored 
to  procure  their  liberty,  by  offering  to  take 
them  with  me,  and  guarantee  their  good  con- 
duct while  in  the  country,  and  also  that  they 
would  not  take  up  arms  against  the  Mexicans; 
but  this  having  no  effect,  and  as  the  poor  fellows 
were  in  a  wretched  condition,  I  advised  them  to 
run  for  it,  promising  to  pick  them  up  on  the 
road  arid  supply  them  with  the  necessary  pro- 
vision, and  cautioning  them  at  the  same  time 
to  conceal  themselves  in  the  daytime,  travelling 
at  night,  and  on  no  account  to  enter  the  settle- 
ments. They  disappeared  from  El  Paso  the 
same  night,  and  what  became  of  them  will  be 
presently  shown. 

On  the  19th  I  left  the  Paso  with  an  escort  of 
fifteen  auxiliares,  a  ragged  troop,  with  whom 
to  have  marched  through  Coventry  would  have 
broken  the  heart  of  Sir  John  Falstaff.  Armed 
with  bows  and  arrows,  lances,  and  old  rusty 
escopetas  [muskets]  and  mounted  on  miserable 
horses,  their  appearance  was  anything  but  war- 
like, and  far  from  formidable.  I  did  my  best  to 
escape  the  honor,  knowing  that  they  would 


THE  JOURNEY  OF  THE  DEAD  29 

only  be  in  my  way,  and  of  not  the  slightest  use 
in  case  of  Indian  attack;  but  all  my  protesta- 
tions were  attributed  to  modesty,  and  were 
overruled,  and  I  was  fain  to  put  myself  at  the 
head  of  the  band  of  valiant  Pasenos,  who  were 
to  escort  me  to  the  borders  of  the  state  of 
Chihuahua.  One  of  them,  a  very  old  man,  with 
a  long  lance  which  he  carried  across  his  saddle- 
bow, and  an  old  rusty  bell-mouthed  escopeta, 
attached  himself  particularly  to  me,  riding  by 
my  side,  and  pointing  out  the  bad  points — the 
mal  puntos — whence  the  Apaches  usually  made 
their  attacks.  He  had,  he  told  me,  served  all 
through  the  War  of  Independence,  "y  por  el 
Rey — for  the  king'' — he  added,  reverently 
doffing  his  hat  at  the  mention  of  the  king.  He 
was  a  loyalist  heart  and  soul.  "Ojala  por  los 
dias  felices  del  reyno! — alas  for  the  happy  time 
when  Mexico  was  ruled  by  a  king!" — was  his 
constant  sighing  exclamation.  A  doblon,  with 
the  head  of  Carlos  Tercero,  hung  round  his 
neck,  and  was  ever  in  his  hand,  being  reverently 
kissed  every  few  miles.  He  was,  he  said, 
"medio  tonto — half-crazy" — and  made  verses, 
very  sorry  ones,  but  he  would  repeat  them  to 
me  when  we  arrived  in  camp. 

Leaving  El  Paso,  we  travelled  along  the 
rugged  precipitous  bank  of  the  river,  crossing 
it  about  three  miles  above  the  village,  and, 
striking  into  a  wild  barren-looking  country, 


30       WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

again  made  the  river  about  sunset,  and  en- 
camped in  the  bottom,  under  some  very  large 
cottonwoods,  at  a  point  called  Los  Alamitos — 
the  little  poplars — although  they  are  enormous 
trees.  We  had  here  a  very  picturesque  camp. 
Several  fires  gleamed  under  the  trees,  and  round 
them  lay  the  savage-looking  Pasenos,  whilst 
the  animals  were  picketed  round  about.  Several 
deer  jumped  out  of  the  bottom  when  we  entered, 
and  on  the  banks  of  the  river  I  saw  some  fresh 
beaver  "sign." 

The  next  day,  halting  an  hour  at  the  Brazitos, 
an  encamping-ground  so  called,  and  a  short 
time  afterwards  passing  the  battle-ground  where 
Doniphan's  Missourians  routed  the  Mexicans, 
we  saw  Indian  sign  on  the  banks  of  the  river, 
where  a  considerable  body  had  just  crossed.  A 
little  farther  on  we  met  a  party  of  seven  soldiers 
returning  from  a  successful  hunt  after  the 
Americans  who  had  escaped  from  the  Paso. 
These  unfortunates  were  sitting  quietly  behind 
their  captors,  who  had  overtaken  them  at  the 
little  settlement  of  Donana,  which  they  foolishly 
entered  to  obtain  provisions. 

Donana  is  a  very  recent  settlement  of  ten  or 
fifteen  families,  who,  tempted  by  the  richness 
of  the  soil,  abandoned  their  farms  in  the  valley 
of  El  Paso,  and  have  here  attempted  to  cultivate 
a  small  tract  in  the  very  midst  of  the  Apaches, 
who  have  already  paid  them  several  visits  and 


THE  JOURNEY  OF  THE  DEAD  31 

carried  off  or  destroyed  their  stock  of  cattle. 
The  huts  are  built  of  logs  and  mud,  and  situated 
on  the  top  of  a  tabular  bluff  which  looks  down 
upon  the  river-bottom. 

The  soil  along  this  bottom,  from  El  Paso  to 
the  settlements  of  New  Mexico,  is  amazingly 
rich,  and  admirably  'adapted  for  the  growth  of 
all  kinds  of  grain.  The  timber  upon  it  is 
cottonwood,  dwarf  oak,  and  mezquit,  under 
which  is  a  thick  undergrowth  of  bushes.  Several 
attempts  have  been  made  to  settle  this  produc- 
tive tract,  but  have  all  of  them  failed  from  the 
hostility  of  the  Apaches.  Should  this  depart- 
ment fall  into  the  hands  of  the  Americans,  it 
will  soon  become  a  thriving  settlement;  for  the 
hardy  backwoodsman,  with  his  axe  on  one 
shoulder  and  rifle  on  the  other,  will  not  be 
deterred  by  the  savage,  like  the  present  pusil- 
lanimous owners  of  the  soil,  from  turning  it  to 
account. 

The  next  day  we  encamped  at  San  Diego,  the 
point  where  the  traveller  leaves  the  river  and 
enters  upon  the  dreaded  Jornada  del  Muerto — 
the  journey  of  the  dead  man.  All  the  camping 
and  watering  places  on  the  river  are  named, 
but  there  are  no  settlements,  with  the  exception 
of  Dofiana,  between  El  Paso  and  Socorro,  the 
first  settlement  in  New  Mexico,  a  distance  of 
250  miles. 

At  San  Diego  we  saw  more  Indian  signs,  the 


32       WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

consequence  of  which  was,  that  my  escort 
reported  their  horses  to  be  exhausted  and  unable 
to  proceed;  so,  nothing  loth,  I  gave  them  their 
conge,  and  the  next  morning  they  retraced 
their  steps  to  El  Paso,  leaving  me  with  my  two 
servants  to  pass  the  Jornada.  I  was  now  at  the 
edge  of  this  formidable  desert,  where  along  the 
road  the  bleaching  bones  of  mules  and  horses 
testify  to  the  dangers  to  be  apprehended  from 
the  want  of  water  and  pasture,  and  many 
human  bones  likewise  tell  their  tale  of  Indian 
slaughter  and  assault. 

I  remained  in  camp  until  noon,  when  for  the 
last  time  we  led  the  animals  to  the  water  and 
allowed  them  to  drink  their  fill:  we  then 
mounted,  and  at  a  sharp  pace  struck  at  once 
into  the  Jornada.  The  road  is  perfectly  level 
and  hard,  and  over  plains  bounded  by  sierras. 
Palmillas  and  bushes  of  sage  (artemisia)  are 
scattered  here  and  there,  but  the  mezquit  is 
now  becoming  scarce,  the  tornilla  or  screw- 
wood  taking  its  place;  farther  on  this  wood 
ceases,  and  there  is  then  no  fuel  to  be  met  with 
of  any  description.  Large  herds  of  antelope 
bounded  past,  and  coyotes  skulked  along  on 
their  trail,  and  prairie-dog  towns  were  met 
every  few  miles,  but  their  inmates  were  snug 
in  their  winter-quarters,  and  only  made  their 
appearance  to  bask  in  the  meridian  sun. 

Shortly  after  leaving  San  Diego  we  found 


THE  JOURNEY  OF  THE  DEAD  33 

water  in  a  little  hole  called  El  Perillo  (the 
little  dog),  but  our  animals,  having  so  lately 
drunk,  would  not  profit  by  the  discovery,  and 
we  hurried  on,  keeping  the  pack-animals  in  a 
sharp  trot.  Near  the  Perillo  is  a  point  of  rocks 
which  abuts  upon  the  road,  and  from  which  a 
large  body  of  Apaches  a  few  years  since  pounced 
upon  a  band  of  American  trappers  and  entirely 
defeated  them,  killing  several  and  carrying  off 
all  their  animals.  Behind  these  rocks  they 
frequently  lie  in  ambush,  shooting  down  the 
unwary  traveller,  whose  first  intimation  of 
their  presence  is  the  puff  of  smoke  from  the 
rocks,  or  the  whiz  of  an  arrow  through  the  air. 
One  of  my  mozos,  who  was  a  New  Mexican  and 
knew  the  country  well,  warned  me  of  the  dangers 
of  this  spot,  and  before  passing  it  I  halted  the 
mules  and  rode  on  to  reconnoitre;  but  no  Apache 
lurked  behind  it,  and  we  passed  unmolested. 

About  midnight  we  stopped  at  the  Laguna 
del  Muerto — the  dead  man's  lake — a  depression 
in  the  plain,  which  in  the  rainy  season  is  covered 
with  water,  but  was  now  hard  and  dry.  We 
rested  the  animals  here  for  half  an  hour,  and, 
collecting  a  few  armf uls  of  artemisia,  attempted 
to  make  a  fire,  for  we  were  all  benumbed  with 
cold;  but  the  dry  twigs  blazed  brightly  for  a 
minute,  and  were  instantly  consumed.  By  the 
temporary  light  it  afforded  us  we  discovered 
that  a  large  party  of  Indians  had  passed  the 


34        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

very  spot  but  a  few  hours,  and  were  probably 
not  far  off  at  that  moment,  and,  if  so,  they 
would  certainly  be  attracted  by  our  fire,  so  we 
desisted  in  our  attempts.  The  mules  and 
horses,  which  had  travelled  at  a  very  quick 
pace,  were  suffering,  even  thus  early,  from  want 
of  water,  and  my  horse  bit  off  the  neck  of  a 
huage,  or  gourd,  which  I  had  placed  on  the 
ground,  and  which  the  poor  beast  by  his  nose 
knew  to  contain  water.  However,  as  there  was 
not  a  vestige  of  grass  on  the  spot,  after  a  halt 
of  half  an  hour,  we  again  mounted  and  pro- 
ceeded on  our  journey,  continuing  at  a  rapid 
pace  all  night.  At  sunrise  we  halted  for  a 
couple  of  hours  on  a  patch  of  grass  which 
afforded  a  bite  to  the  tired  animals,  and  about 
three  in  the  afternoon  had  the  satisfaction  of 
reaching  the  river  at  the  watering-place  called 
Fray  Cristoval,  having  performed  the  whole 
distance  of  the  Jornada,  of  ninety-five,  or,  as 
some  say,  one  hundred  miles,  in  little  more  than 
twenty  hours. 

The  plain  through  which  the  dead  man's 
journey  passes  is  one  of  a  system,  or  series,  which 
stretch  along  the  table-land  between  the  Sierra 
Madre,  or  main  chain  of  the  Cordillera,  on  the 
west,  and  the  small  mountain-chain  of  the 
Sierra  Blanca  and  the  Organos,  which  form  the 
dividing  ridge  between  the  waters  of  the  Del 
Norte  and  the  Rio  Pecos.  Through  this  valley, 


THE  JOURNEY  OF  THE  DEAD  35 

fed  by  but  few  streams,  runs  the  Del  Norte. 
Its  water,  from  the  constant  abrasion  of  the 
banks  of  alluvial  soil,  is  very  muddy  and  dis- 
colored, but  nevertheless  of  excellent  quality, 
and  has  the  reputation  at  El  Paso  of  possessing 
chemical  properties  which  prevent  diseases  of 
the  kidneys,  stone,  &c.  &c. 

The  White  Mountain  and  the  Organos  are 
singularly  destitute  of  streams,  but  on  the  latter 
is  said  to  be  a  small  lake,  in  the  waters  of  which 
may  be  seen  the  phenomenon  of  a  daily  rise  and 
fall  similar  to  a  tide.  They  are  also  reported  to 
abound  in  minerals,  but,  from  the  fact  of  these 
sierras  being  the  hiding-places  of  Apaches,  they 
are  never  visited  excepting  during  a  hostile 
expedition  against  these  Indians,  and  conse- 
quently in  these  excursions  but  little  opportunity 
is  afforded  for  an  examination  of  the  country. 
The  sierras  are  also  celebrated  for  medicinal 
herbs  of  great  value,  which  the  Apaches,  when 
at  peace  with  the  Pasenos,  sometimes  bring  in 
for  sale. 

Indeed,  from  the  accounts  which  I  received 
from  the  people  of  these  mountains,  I  should 
judge  them  to  be  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  which 
however  would  be  extremely  hazardous  on 
account  of  the  hostility  of  the  Indians  and  the 
scarcity  of  water.  Their  formation  is  apparent- 
ly volcanic,  and,  judging  from  the  nature  of  the 
plains,  which  in  many  places  are  strewed  with 


36        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

volcanic  substances,  and  exhibit  the  bluffs  of 
tabular  form,  composed  of  basaltic  lava,  known 
by  the  name  of  mesas  (tables),  the  valley  must 
at  one  time  have  been  subjected  to  volcanic 
agency. 

Staying  at  Fray  Cristoval  but  one  night,  I 
pushed  on  to  the  ruins  of  Valverde,  a  long- 
deserted  rancheria,  a  few  miles  beyond  which 
was  the  advanced  post  of  the  American  troops. 
Here,  encamped  on  the  banks  of  the  river  in  the 
heavy  timber,  I  found  a  great  portion  of  the 
caravan  which  I  have  before  mentioned  as 
being  en  route  to  Chihuahua,  and  also  a  survey- 
ing party  under  the  command  of  Lieut.  Abert, 
of  the  United  States  Topographical  Engineers. 

Being  entirely  out  of  provisions,  and  my 
camp  hungry,  the  next  morning  I  mounted  my 
hunting-mule,  and  crossed  the  river,  which  was 
partially  frozen,  to  look  for  deer  in  the  bottom. 
Thanks  to  my  mule,  as  I  was  passing  through  a 
thicket  I  saw  her  prick  her  ears  and  look  on 
one  side,  and,  following  her  gaze,  descried  three 
deer  standing  under  a  tree  with  their  heads 
turned  towards  me.  My  rifle  was  quickly  up 
to  my  shoulder,  and  a  fine  large  doe  dropped  to 
the  report,  shot  through  the  heart.  Being  in  a 
hurry,  I  did  not  wait  to  cut  it  up,  but  threw  it 
on  to  my  mule,  which  I  drove  before  me  to  the 
river.  Large  blocks  of  ice  were  floating  down, 
which  rendered  the  passage  difficult,  but  I 


THE  JOURNEY  OF  THE  DEAD  37 

mounted  behind  the  deer  and  pushed  the  mule 
into  the  stream.  Just  as  we  had  got  into  the 
middle  of  the  current  a  large  piece  of  ice  struck 
her,  and,  to  prevent  herself  being  carried  down 
the  stream,  she  threw  herself  on  her  haunches, 
and  I  slipped  over  the  tail,  and  head  over  ears 
into  the  water.  Rid  of  the  extra  load,  the  mule 
carried  the  deer  safely  over  and  trotted  off  to 
camp,  where  she  quietly  stood  to  be  unpacked, 
leaving  me,  drenched  to  the  skin,  to  follow  after 
her. 

The  traders  had  been  lying  here  many  weeks, 
and  the  bottom  where  they  were  encamped 
presented  quite  a  picturesque  appearance.  The 
timber  extends  half  a  mile  from  the  river,  and 
the  cottonwood  trees  are  of  large  size,  without 
any  undergrowth  of  bushes.  Amongst  the  trees, 
in  open  spaces,  were  drawn  up  the  wagons, 
formed  into  a  corral  or  square,  and  close  to- 
gether, so  that  the  whole  made  a  most  formid- 
able fort,  and,  when  filled  with  some  hundred 
rifles,  could  defy  the  attacks  of  Indians  or  Mexi- 
cans. Scattered  about  were  tents  and  shanties 
of  logs  and  branches  of  every  conceivable  form, 
round  which  lounged  wild-looking  Missourians, 
some  cooking  at  the  camp-fires,  some  cleaning 
their  rifles  or  firing  at  targets — blazes  cut  in  the 
trees,  with  a  bull's-eye  made  with  wet  powder 
on  the  white  bark.  From  morning  till  night  the 
camp  resounded  with  the  popping  of  rifles, 


38        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS] 

firing  at  marks  for  prizes  of  tobacco,  or  at  any 
living  creature  which  presented  itself. 

The  oxen,  horses,  and  mules  were  sent  out  at 
daylight  to  pasture  on  the  grass  of  the  prairie, 
and  at  sunset  made  their  appearance,  driven 
in  by  the  Mexican  herders,  and  were  secured  for 
the  night  in  the  corrals.  My  own  animals 
roamed  at  will,  but  every  evening  came  to  the 
river  to  drink,  and  made  their  way  to  my  camp, 
where  they  would  frequently  stay  round  the 
fire  all  night.  They  never  required  herding,  for 
they  made  their  appearance  as  regularly  as  the 
day  closed,  and  would  come  to  my  whistle 
whenever  I  required  my  hunting-mule.  The 
poor  beasts  were  getting  very  poor,  not  having 
had  corn  since  leaving  El  Paso,  and  having 
subsisted  during  the  journey  from  that  place  on 
very  little  of  the  coarsest  kind  of  grass.  They 
felt  it  the  more  as  they  were  all  accustomed  to  be 
fed  on  grain;  and  the  severe  cold  was  very  try- 
ing to  them,  coming,  as  they  did,  from  a  tropical 
climate.  My  favorite  horse,  Panchito,  had  lost 
all  his  good  looks;  his  once  full  and  arched  neck 
was  now  a  perfect  "ewe,"  and  his  ribs  and  hip- 
bones were  almost  protruding  through  the  skin; 
but  he  was  as  game  as  ever,  and  had  never  once 
flinched  in  his  work. 

Provisions  of  all  kinds  were  very  scarce  in  the 
camp,  and  the  game,  being  constantly  hunted, 
soon  disappeared.  Having  been  invited  to  join 


THE  JOURNEY  OF  THE  DEAD  39 

the  hospitable  mess  of  the  officers  of  the  Engin- 
eers, I  fortunately  did  not  suffer,  although  even 
they  were  living  on  their  rations,  and  on  the 
produce  of  our  guns.  The  traders,  mostly  young 
men  from  the  eastern  cities,  were  fine  hearty 
fellows,  who  employ  their  capital  in  this  trade 
because  it  combines  pleasure  with  profit,  and 
the  excitement  and  danger  of  the  journey 
through  the  Indian  country  are  more  agreeable 
than  the  monotonous  life  of  a  city  merchant. 
The  volunteers'  camp  was  some  three  miles  up 
the  river  on  the  other  side.  Colonel  Doniphan, 
who  commanded,  had  just  returned  from  an 
expedition  into  the  Navajo  country  for  the 
purpose  of  making  a  treaty  with  the  chiefs  of 
that  nation,  who  have  hitherto  been  bitter 
enemies  of  the  New  Mexicans.  From  appear- 
ances no  one  would  have  imagined  this  to  be  a 
military  encampment.  The  tents  were  in  a  line, 
but  there  all  uniformity  ceased.  There  were  no 
regulations  in  force  with  regard  to  cleanliness. 
The  camp  was  strewed  with  the  bones  and  offal 
of  the  cattle  slaughtered  for  its  supply,  and  not 
the  slightest  attention  was  paid  to  keeping  it 
clear  from  other  accumulations  of  filth. 

The  men,  unwashed  and  unshaven,  were 
ragged  and  dirty,  without  uniforms,  and  dressed 
as,  and  how,  they  pleased.  They  wandered 
about,  listless  and  sickly -looking,  or  were  sitting 
in  groups  playing  at  cards,  and  swearing  and 


40       WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

cursing,  even  at  the  officers  if  they  interfered  to 
stop  it  (as  I  witnessed).  The  greatest  irregu- 
larities constantly  took  place.  Sentries,  or  a 
guard,  although  in  an  enemy's  country,  were 
voted  unnecessary;  and  one  fine  day,  during  the 
time  I  was  here,  three  Navajo  Indians  ran  off 
with  a  flock  of  eight  hundred  sheep  belonging 
to  the  camp,  killing  the  two  volunteers  in 
charge  of  them,  and  reaching  the  mountains  in 
safety  with  their  booty.  Their  mules  and  horses 
were  straying  over  the  country;  in  fact,  the 
most  total  want  of  discipline  was  apparent  in 
everything.  These  very  men,  however,  were  as 
full  of  fight  as  game  cocks,  and  shortly  after 
defeated  four  times  their  number  of  Mexicans 
at  Sacramento,  near  Chihuahua. 

The  American  can  never  be  made  a  soldier; 
his  constitution  will  not  bear  the  restraint  of 
discipline,  neither  will  his  very  mistaken 
notions  about  liberty  allow  him  to  subject  him- 
self to  its  necessary  control.  In  a  country 
abounding  with  all  the  necessaries  of  life,  and 
where  any  one  of  physical  ability  is  at  no  loss 
for  profitable  employment — moreover,  where, 
from  the  nature  of  the  country,  the  lower 
classes  lead  a  life  free  from  all  the  restraint  of 
society,  and  almost  its  conventional  laws — it  is 
easy  to  conceive  that  it  would  require  great 
inducements  for  a  man  to  enter  the  army  and 
subject  himself  to  discipline  for  the  sake  of  the 


THE  JOURNEY  OF  THE  DEAD  41 

trifling  remuneration,  when  so  many  other 
sources  of  profitable  employment  are  open  to 
him.  For  these  reasons  the  service  is  unpopu- 
lar, and  only  resorted  to  by  men  who  are  either 
too  indolent  to  work,  or  whose  bad  characters 
prevent  them  seeking  other  employment. 

The  volunteering  service  on  the  other  hand 
is  eagerly  sought,  on  occasions  such  as  the 
present  war  with  Mexico  affords,  by  young  men 
even  of  the  most  respectable  classes,  as,  in  this, 
discipline  exists  but  in  name,  and  they  have 
privileges  and  rights,  such  as  electing  their  own 
officers,  &c.,  which  they  consider  to  be  more 
consonant  to  their  ideas  of  liberty  and  equality. 
The  system  is  palpably  bad,  as  they  have 
sufficiently  proved  in  this  war.  The  election 
of  officers  is  made  entirely  a  political  question, 
and  quite  irrespective  of  their  military  qualities, 
and,  knowing  the  footing  on  which  they  stand 
with  the  men,  they,  if  even  they  know  how,  are 
afraid  to  exact  of  them  either  order  or  discipline. 
Of  drill  or  manceuvering  the  volunteers  have 
little  or  no  idea.  "Every  man  on  his  own 
hook"  is  their  system  in  action;  and  trusting  to, 
and  confident  in,  their  undeniable  bravery, 
they  "go  ahead,"  and  overcome  all  obstacles. 
No  people  know  better  the  advantages  of  dis- 
cipline than  do  the  officers  of  the  regular  service; 
and  it  is  greatly  to  their  credit  that  they  can 
keep  the  standing  army  in  the  state  it  is.  As 


42        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

it  is  mostly  composed  of  foreigners — Germans, 
English,  and  Irish,  and  deserters  from  the 
British  army — they  might  be  brought  to  as 
perfect  a  state  of  discipline  as  any  of  the  armies 
of  Europe;  but  the  feeling  of  the  people  will  not 
permit  it;  the  public  would  at  once  cry  out 
against  it  as  contrary  to  republican  notions  and 
the  liberty  of  the  citizen. 

There  is  a  vast  disparity  between  the  officers 
of  the  regular  army  and  the  men  they  command. 
Receiving  at  West  Point  (an  admirable  institu- 
tion) a  military  education  by  which  they  acquire 
a  practical  as  well  as  theoretical  knowledge  of 
the  science  of  war,  as  a  class  they  are  probably 
more  distinguished  for  military  knowledge  than 
the  officers  of  any  European  army.  Uniting 
with  this  a  high  chivalrous  feeling  and  most 
conspicuous  gallantry,  they  have  all  the  essen- 
tials of  the  officer  and  soldier.  Notwithstanding 
this,  they  have  been  hitherto  an  unpopular 
class  in  the  United  States,  being  accused  of 
having  a  tendency  to  aristocratic  feeling;  but 
rather,  I  do  believe,  from  the  marked  distinction 
in  education  and  character  which  divides  them 
from  the  mass,  than  any  other  reason.  However, 
the  late  operations  in  Mexico  have  sufficiently 
proved  that  to  their  regular  officers  alone,  and 
more  particularly  to  those  who  have  been  edu- 
cated at  the  much-decried  West  Point,  are  to 
be  attributed  the  successes  which  have  every- 


THE  JOURNEY  OF  THE  DEAD  43 

where  attended  the  American  arms;  and  it  is 
notorious  that  on  more  than  one  occasion  the 
steadiness  of  the  small  regular  force,  and  par- 
ticularly of  the  artillery,  under  their  command, 
has  saved  the  army  from  most  serious  disasters. 

I  remained  at  Valverde  encampment  several 
days  in  order  to  recruit  my  animals  before  pro- 
ceeding farther  to  the  north,  passing  the  time 
in  hunting;  game,  although  driven  from  the 
vicinity  of  the  camp,  being  still  plentiful  at  a 
little  distance.  Besides  deer  and  antelope, 
turkeys  were  very  abundant  in  the  river  bottom; 
and,  of  lesser  game,  hares,  rabbits,  and  quail 
were  met  with  on  the  plain,  and  geese  and 
ducks  in  the  river. 

One  day  I  got  a  shot  at  a  panther  (painter), 
but  did  not  kill  it,  as  my  old  mule  was  so  dis- 
turbed at  the  sight  of  the  beast,  that  she  refused 
to  remain  quiet.  The  prairie  between  the  Del 
Norte  and  the  mountain,  a  distance  of  twelve  or 
fourteen  miles,  is  broken  into  gulleys  and  ra- 
vines, which  intersect  it  in  every  direction.  At 
the  bottom  of  these  is  a  thick  growth  of  coarse 
grass  and  grease-bushes,  where  the  deer  love  to 
resort  in  the  middle  of  the  day.  I  was  riding 
slowly  up  one  of  these  canons,  with  my  rifle 
across  the  saddle-bow,  and  the  reins  thrown 
on  the  mule's  neck,  being  at  that  moment  en- 
gaged in  lighting  my  pipe,  when  the  mule 
pricked  her  ears  and  turned  her  head  to  one 


44        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

side  very  suddenly,  giving  a  cant  round  at  the 
same  time.  I  looked  to  the  right,  and  saw  a 
large  panther,  with  his  tail  sweeping  the  ground, 
trotting  leisurely  up  the  side  of  the  ravine, 
which  rose  abruptly  from  the  dry  bed  of  a  water- 
course, up  which  I  was  proceeding.  The  animal, 
when  it  had  reached  the  top,  turned  round  and 
looked  at  me,  its  tiger-like  ears  erect,  and  its 
tail  quivering  with  anger.  The  mule  snorted  and 
backed,  but,  fearing  to  dismount,  lest  the 
animal  should  run  off,  I  raised  my  rifle  and 
fired  both  barrels  at  the  beast,  which,  giving  a 
hissing  growl,  bounded  away  unhurt. 

It  was,  however,  dangerous  to  go  far  from 
the  camp,  as  Apaches  and  Navajos  were  con- 
tinually prowling  round,  and,  as  I  have  men- 
tioned, had  killed  two  of  the  volunteers,  and 
stolen  800  sheep.  One  day,  while  hunting,  I 
came  upon  a  fire  which  they  had  just  left,  and, 
as  several  oxen  were  lost  that  night,  this  party, 
which,  from  the  tracks,  consisted  of  a  man, 
woman,  and  boy,  had  doubtless  run  them  off. 
I  was  that  day  hunting  in  company  with  a 
French  Canadian  and  an  American,  both 
trappers  and  old  mountain-men,  when,  at  sun- 
down, just  as  we  had  built  a  fire  and  were 
cooking  our  suppers  under  some  trees  near  the 
river,  we  heard  the  gobble-gobble  of  an  old 
turkey-cock,  as  he  called  his  flock  to  roost. 
Lying  motionless  on  the  ground,  we  watched 


THE  JOURNEY  OF  THE  DEAD  45 

the  whole  flock,  one  after  another,  fly  up  to  the 
trees  over  our  heads,  to  the  number  of  upwards 
of  thirty.  There  was  still  light  enough  to  shoot, 
and  the  whole  flock  was  within  reach  of  our 
rifles,  but,  as  we  judged  that  we  could  not  hope 
for  more  than  one  shot  apiece,  which  would 
only  give  three  birds,  we  agreed  to  wait  until 
the  moon  rose,  when  we  might  bag  the  whole 
family. 

Hardly  daring  to  move,  we  remained  quiet 
for  several  hours,  as  the  moon  rose  late,  con- 
soling ourselves  with  our  anticipations  of  a 
triumphal  entry  into  camp,  on  the  morrow,  with 
twenty  or  thirty  fine  turkeys  for  a  Christmas 
feast. 

At  length  the  moon  rose,  but  unfortunately 
clouded:  nevertheless  we  thought  there  was 
sufficient  light  for  our  purpose,  and,  rifle  in 
hand,  approached  the  trees  where  the  uncon- 
scious birds  were  roosting.  Creeping  close  along 
the  ground,  we  stopped  under  the  first  tree  we 
came  to,  and,  looking  up,  on  one  of  the  topmost 
naked  limbs  was  a  round  black  object.  The  pas 
was  given  to  me,  and,  raising  my  rifle,  I  en- 
deavored to  obtain  a  sight,  but  the  light  was 
too  obscure  to  draw  "a  bead,"  although  there 
appeared  no  difficulty  in  getting  a  level.  I 
fired,  expecting  to  hear  the  crash  of  the  falling 
bird  follow  the  report,  but  the  black  object  on 
the  tree  never  moved.  My  companions  chuckled, 


46        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

and  I  fired  my  second  barrel  with  similar  result, 
the  bird  still  remaining  perfectly  quiet.  The 
Canadian  then  stepped  forth,  and,  taking  a 
deliberate  aim,  bang  he  went. 

"Sacre  enfant  de  Garce!"  he  exclaimed,  finding 
he  too  had  missed  the  bird;  "I  aim  straight, 
mais  light  tres  bad,  sacre !" 

Bang  went  the  other's  rule,  and  bang-bang 
went  my  two  barrels  immediately  after,  cutting 
the  branch  in  two  on  which  the  bird  was  sitting, 
who,  thinking  this  a  hint  to  be  off,  and  that  he 
had  sufficiently  amused  us,  flew  screaming  away. 
The  same  compliments  were  paid  to  every 
individual,  one  bird  standing  nine  shots  before 
it  flew  off:  and,  to  end  the  story,  we  fired  away 
every  ball  in  our  pouches  without  as  much  as 
touching  a  feather;  the  fact  of  the  matter  being, 
that  the  light  was  not  sufficient  to  see  an  object 
through  the  fine  sight  of  the  rifles. 

At  Valverde  my  Mexican  servant  deserted, 
why  or  wherefore  I  could  not  understand,  as 
he  did  not  even  wait  for  his  pay,  and  carried  off 
no  equivalent.  I  also  left  here  the  Mexico- 
Irishman  who  had  accompanied  me  from 
Mapimi.  He  was  already  suffering  from  the 
severities  of  the  climate,  and,  being  very  deli- 
cate, I  did  not  think  him  able  to  stand  a  winter 
journey  over  the  Rocky  Mountains.  He  there- 
fore returned  to  Chihuahua  with  one  of  the 
traders.  From  this  point  to  my  winter  quarters 


THE  JOURNEY  OF  THE  DEAD  47 

in  the  mountains  I  was  entirely  on  my  own 
resources,  being  unable  to  hire  a  servant  in 
whom  I  could  place  the  least  confidence,  and 
preferring  to  shift  for  myself,  rather  than  be 
harassed  with  being  always  on  the  watch  to 
prevent  my  fidus  Achates  from  robbing  or 
murdering  me.  My  animals  gave  me  little  or 
no  trouble,  and  I  had  now  reduced  my  requa  to 
five,  having  left  at  El  Paso  the  tierra  caliente 
[lowland]  horse,  another  having  died  on  the 
road,  and  a  mule  having  been  lost  or  strayed  on 
the  Del  Norte.  In  travelling  I  had  no  difficulty 
with  the  pack  and  loose  mules.  I  rode  in  front 
on  Panchito,  and  the  mules  followed  like  dogs, 
never  giving  me  occasion  even  to  turn  round 
to  see  if  they  were  there;  for  if,  by  any  accident, 
they  lost  sight  of  the  horse,  and  other  animals 
were  near,  they  would  gallop  about  smelling  at 
each,  and  often,  starting  off  to  horses  or  mules 
feeding  at  a  distance,  would  return  at  full 
gallop,  crying  with  terror  until  they  found  their 
old  friend.  Panchito,  on  his  part,  showed  equal 
signs  of  perturbation  if  they  remained  too  far 
behind,  as  sometimes  they  would  stop  for  a 
mouthful  of  grass,  and,  turning  his  head,  would 
recall  them  by  a  loud  neigh,  which  invariably 
had  the  effect  of  bringing  them  up  at  a  hand- 
gallop. 

The  greatest  difficulty  I  experienced  was  in 
packing  the  mules,  which  operation,  when  on  an 


\ 

48        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

aparejo,  or  Mexican  pack-saddle,  is  the  work 
of  two  men,  and  I  may  as  well  describe  the 
process. 

The  equipment  of  a  pack-mule — mula  de 
carga — consists  first  and  foremost  of  the  aparejo, 
which  is  a  square  pad  of  stuffed  leather.  An 
idea  of  the  shape  may  be  formed  by  taking  a 
book  and  placing  it  saddle-fashion  on  any 
object,  the  leaves  being  equally  divided,  and 
each  half  forming  a  flap  of  the  saddle.  This  is 
placed  on  the  mule's  back  on  a  xerga,  or  saddle- 
cloth, which  had  under  it  a  salea,  raw  sheep- 
skin softened  by  the  hand,  which  prevents  the 
saddle  chafing  the  back.  The  aparejo  is  then 
secured  by  a  broad  grass-band,  which  is  drawn 
so  tight,  that  the  animal  appears  cut  in  two, 
and  groans  and  grunts  most  awfully  under  the 
operation,  which  to  a  greenhorn  seems  most 
unnecessary  and  cruel.  It  is  in  this,  however, 
that  the  secret  of  packing  a  mule  consists;  the 
firmer  the  pack-saddle,  the  more  comfortably 
the  mule  travels,  and  with  less  risk  of  being 
"matada,"  literally  killed,  but  meaning  chafed 
and  cut. 

The  carga  is  then  placed  on  the  top,  if  a  single 
pack;  or  if  two  of  equal  size  and  weight  one  on 
each  'side,  being  coupled  together  by  a  rope, 
which  balances  them  on  the  mule's  back:  a 
stout  pack-rope  is  then  thrown  over  all,  drawn 
as  tight  as  possible  under  the  belly,  and  laced 


THE  JOURNEY  OF  THE  DEAD  49 

round  the  packs,  securing  the  load  firmly  in  its 
place.  A  square  piece  of  matting — petate — is 
then  thrown  over  the  pack  to  protect  it  from 
rain,  the  tapojos  is  removed  from  the  mule's 
eyes,  and  the  operation  is  complete.  The 
tapojos — blinker — is  a  piece  of  thin  embroidered 
leather,  which  is  placed  over  the  mule's  eyes 
before  being  packed,  and,  thus  blinded,  the 
animal  remains  perfectly  quiet.  The  cargador 
[packer]  stands  on  the  near  side  of  the  pack, 
his  assistant  on  the  other,  hauling  on  the  slack 
of  the  rope,  with  his  knee  against  the  side  of  the 
mule  for  a  purchase;  when  the  rope  is  taut,  he 
cries  "Adios!"  and  the  packer,  rejoining  "Vaya!" 
makes  fast  the  rope  on  the  top  of  the  carga, 
sings  out  "Anda!"  and  the  mule  trots  off  to  her 
companions,  who  feed  round  until  all  the  mules 
of  the  atajo  are  packed. 

Muleteering  is  the  natural  occupation  of  the 
Mexican.  He  is  in  all  his  glory  when  travelling 
as  one  of  the  mozos  of  a  large  atajo — a  caravan 
of  pack  mules;  but  the  height  of  his  ambition  is 
to  attain  the  rank  of  mayor-domo  or  capitan — 
(the  brigadero  of  Castile).  The  atajos9  numbering 
from  fifty  to  two  hundred  mules,  travel  a  daily 
distance — Jornada — of  twelve  or  fifteen  miles, 
each  mule  carrying  a  pack  weighing  from  two 
to  four  hundred  pounds.  To  a  large  atajo  eight 
or  ten  muleteers  are  attached,  and  the  dexterity 
and  quickness  with  which  they  will  saddle  and 


50        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

pack  an  atajo  of  a  hundred  mules  is  surprising. 
The  animals  being  driven  to  the  spot,  the  lasso 
whirls  round  the  head  of  the  muleteer,  and  falls 
over  the  head  of  a  particular  mule.  The  tapojos 
is  placed  over  the  eyes,  the  heavy  aparejo 
adjusted,  and  the  pack  secured,  in  three  minutes. 
On  reaching  the  place  where  they  purpose  to 
encamp,  the  pack  saddles  are  all  ranged  in 
regular  order,  with  the  packs  between,  and 
covered  with  the  petates,  a  trench  being  cut 
round  them  in  wet  weather  to  carry  off  the 
rain.  One  mule  is  always  packed  with  the 
metate — the  stone  block  upon  which  the  maize 
is  ground  to  make  tortillas,  and  the  office  of 
cook  is  undertaken  in  turn  by  each  of  the 
muleteers.  Frijoles  and  chile  Colorado  comprise 
their  daily  bill  of  fare,  with  a  drink  of  pulque 
when  passing  through  the  land  of  the  maguey. 


CHAPTER  III 

TRAVELLING  WITH  THE  ENGINEERS 

ON  the  14th  of  December  the  camp  was 
broken  up,  the  traders  proceeding  to 
Fray  Cristoval,  at  the  entrance  of  the 
Jornada,  to  wait  the  arrival  of  the  troops, 
which  were  about  to  advance  on  Chihuahua; 
and  myself,  in  company  with  Lieutenant  Abert's 
party,  en  route  to  Santa  Fe.  Crossing  the  Del 
Norte,  we  proceeded  on  its  right  bank  ten  or 
twelve  miles,  encamping  in  the  bottom  near 
the  new  settlement  of  San  Antonio,  a  little 
hamlet  of  ten  or  twelve  log-huts,  inhabited  by 
pastores  and  vaqueros — shepherds  and  cattle- 
herders.  The  river  is  but  thinly  timbered  here, 
the  soil  being  arid  and  sterile;  on  the  bluffs, 
however,  the  grass  is  very  good,  being  the 
gramma  or  feather-grass,  and  numerous  flocks 
of  sheep  are  sent  hither  to  pasture  from  the 
settlements  higher  up  the  stream. 

The  next  day  we  passed  through  Socorro,  a 
small,  wretched  place,  the  first  settlement  of 
New  Mexico  on  the  river.  The  houses  are  all  of 
adobe,  inside  and  out,  one  story  high,  and  with 

the  usual  azotea  or  flat  roof.  They  have  generally 

61 


52        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

a  small  window,  with  thin  sheets  of  talc  (which 
here  abounds)  as  a  substitute  for  glass.  They 
are,  however,  kept  clean  inside,  the  mud-floors 
being  watered  and  swept  many  times  during 
the  day.  The  faces  of  the  women  were  all 
stained  with  the  fiery  red  juice  of  a  plant  called 
alegria,  from  the  forehead  to  the  chin.  This  is 
for  the  purpose  of  protecting  their  skin  from  the 
effects  of  the  sun,  and  preserving  them  in  un- 
tanned  beauty  to  be  exposed  in  the  fandangos. 
Of  all  people  in  the  world  the  Mexicans  have  the 
greatest  antipathy  to  water,  hot  or  cold,  for 
ablutionary  purposes.  The  men  never  touch 
their  faces  with  that  element,  except  in  their 
bi-monthly  shave;  and  the  women  besmear 
themselves  with  fresh  coats  of  alegria  when 
their  faces  become  dirty:  thus  their  counten- 
ances are  covered  with  alternate  strata  of  paint 
and  dirt,  caked,  and  cracked  in  fissures.  My 
first  impressions  of  New  Mexico  were  anything 
but  favorable,  either  to  the  country  or  the 
people.  The  population  of  Socorro  was  wretched 
looking,  and  every  countenance  seemed  marked 
by  vice  and  debauchery.  The  men  appear  to 
have  no  other  employment  than  smoking  and 
basking  in  the  sun,  wrapped  in  their  sarapes; 
the  women  in  dancing  and  intrigue.  The  ap- 
pearance of  Socorro  is  that  of  a  dilapidated 
brick-kiln,  or  a  prairie-dog  town;  indeed,  from 
these  animals  the  New  Mexicans  appear  to  have 


TRAVELLING  WITH  THE  ENGINEERS        53 

derived  their  style  of  architecture.  In  every 
village  we  entered,  the  women  flocked  round 
us  begging  for  tobacco  or  money,  the  men 
loafing  about,  pilfering  everything  they  could 
lay  their  hands  on.  As  in  other  parts  of  Mexico, 
the  women  wore  the  enagua,  or  red  petticoat, 
and  reboso,  and  were  all  bare-legged.  The  men 
were  some  of  them  clad  in  buckskin  shirts, 
made  by  the  Indians.  Near  Socorro  is  a  mining 
sierra,  where  gold  and  silver  have  been  extracted 
in  small  quantities.  All  along  the  road  we  met 
straggling  parties  of  the  volunteers,  on  horse  or 
mule-back,  and  on  foot.  In  every  camp  they 
usually  lost  some  of  their  animals,  one  or  two 
of  which  our  party  secured.  The  five  hundred 
men  who  were  on  the  march  covered  an  extent 
of  road  of  more  than  a  hundred  miles — the 
ammunition  and  provision  wagons  travelling 
through  an  enemy's  country  without  escort! 

On  the  16th  we  passed  through  Limitar, 
another  wretched  village,  and  a  sandy,  desert 
country,  quite  uninhabited,  camping  again  on 
the  Del  Norte;  and  next  day,  stopping  an  hour 
or  two  at  Sabanal,  we  reached  Bosque  Redondo, 
the  hacienda  of  one  of  the  Chaves  family,  and 
one  of  the  ricos  (rich)  of  New  Mexico. 

The  churches  in  the  villages  of  New  Mexico 
are  quaint  little  buildings,  looking,  with  their 
adobe-walls,  like  turf-stacks.  At  each  corner 
of  the  facade  half  a  dozen  bricks  are  erected 


54        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

in  the  form  of  a  tower,  and  a  centre  ornament 
of  the  same  kind  supports  a  wooden  cross.  They 
are  really  the  most  extraordinary  and  primitive 
specimens  of  architecture  I  ever  met  with,  and 
the  decorations  of  the  interior  are  equal  to  the 
promises  held  out  by  the  imposing  outside. 

The  houses  are  entered  by  doors  which 
barely  admit  a  full-grown  man;  and  the  largest 
of  New  Mexican  windows  is  but  little  bigger 
than  the  ventilator  of  a  summer  hat.  However, 
in  his  rabbit-burrow,  and  with  his  tortillas  and 
his  chile,  his  ponche*  and  cigar  of  hoja'f,  the 
New  Mexican  is  content;  and  with  an  occasional 
traveller  to  pilfer,  or  the  excitement  of  a  stray 
Texan  or  two  to  massacre  now  and  then,  is 
tolerably  happy;  his  only  care  being,  that  the 
river  rise  high  enough  to  fill  his  acequia,  or 
irrigating  ditch,  that  sufficient  maize  may  grow 
to  furnish  him  tortillas  for  the  winter,  and 
shucks  for  his  half -starved  horse  or  mule,  which 
the  Navajos  have  left,  out  of  charity,  after 
killing  half  his  sons  and  daughters,  and  bearing 
into  captivity  the  wife  of  his  bosom. 

We  encamped  behind  the  house  at  Bosque 
Redondo,  for  which  privilege  I  asked  permission 
of  the  proprietor;  who  doled  us  out  six  penny- 
worth of  wood  for  our  fires,  never  inviting  us 
into  his  house,  or  offering  the  slightest  civility. 
Cosas  de  Mejico! 

*  A  pungent  tobacco  grown  in  New  Mexico, 
f  Hoja,  corn-shuck,  leaves  of  Indian  corn. 


TRAVELLING  WITH  THE  ENGINEERS        55 

On  the  17th  we  reached  Albuquerque,  next 
to  Santa  Fe  the  most  important  town  in  the 
province,  and  the  residence  of  the  ex-Governor 
Armijo.  We  found  here  a  squadron  of  the  1st 
United  States  dragoons,  the  remainder  of  the 
regiment  having  accompanied  General  Kearney 
to  California.  We  encamped  near  a  large 
building  where  the  men  were  quartered;  and 
in  the  evening  a  number  of  them  came  round  the 
fire,  asking  the  news  from  the  lower  country.  I 
saw  that  some  of  them  had  once  worn  a  different- 
colored  uniform  from  the  sky-blue  of  the 
United  States  army;  and  in  the  evening,  as  I 
was  walking  with  some  of  the  officers  of  the 
regiment,  I  was  accosted  by  one,  whom  I 
immediately  recognized  as  a  man  named  Her- 
bert, a  deserter  from  the  regiment  to  which  I 
had  once  belonged.  He  had  imagined  that,  as 
several  years  had  elapsed  since  I  had  seen  him, 
his  face  would  not  have  been  familiar  to  me, 
and  inquired  for  a  brother  of  his  who  was  still 
in  the  regiment,  denying  at  first  that  he  had 
been  in  the  British  service. 

The  settled  portion  of  the  province  of  New 
Mexico  is  divided  into  two  sections,  which, 
from  their  being  situated  on  the  Rio  del  Norte,  are 
designated  Rio  Arriba  and  Rio  Abajo,  or  up  the 
river  and  down  the  river.  Albuquerque  is  the 
chief  town  of  the  latter,  as  Santa  Fe  is  of  the 
former  as  well  as  the  capital  of  the  province. 


56        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

The  town  and  the  estates  in  the  neighbour- 
hood belong  to  the  Armijo  family;  and  the 
General  of  that  name  and  ex-Governor,  has 
here  a  palacio;  and  has  also  built  a  barrack,  in 
which  to  accommodate  the  numerous  escort 
which  always  attends  him  in  his  progresses  to 
and  from  his  country-seat. 

The  families  of  Armijo,  Chaves,  Perea,  and 
Ortiz  are  par  excellence  the  ricos  of  New  Mexico 
— indeed,  all  the  wealth  of  the  province  is  con- 
centrated in  their  hands;  and  a  more  grasping 
set  of  people,  and  more  hard-hearted  oppressors 
of  the  poor,  it  would  be  difficult  to  find  in  any 
other  part  of  Mexico,  where  the  rights  or 
condition  of  the  lower  classes  are  no  more  con- 
sidered, than  in  civilized  countries  is  the  welfare 
of  dogs  and  pigs. 

I  had  letters  to  the  Senora  Armijo,  the  wife 
of  the  runaway  Governor;  but,  as  it  was  late 
at  night  when  we  arrived,  and  as  I  intended  to 
leave  the  next  morning,  I  did  not  think  it  worth 
while  to  present  them,  merely  delivering  to  the 
mayor-domo  some  private  letters  which  had 
been  intrusted  to  my  care  from  Chihuahua. 
However,  as  I  passed  the  windows  of  the  sala, 
I  had  a  good  view  of  the  lady,  who  was  once 
celebrated  as  the  belle  of  New  Mexico.  She  is 
now  a  fat,  comely  dame  of  forty,  with  the 
remains  of  considerable  beauty,  but  quite  passee. 

Our  halting-place  next  day  was  at  Bernalillo, 


TRAVELLING  WITH  THE  ENGINEERS        57 

a  more  miserable  place  than  usual;  but  as  I 
had  brought  letters  to  a  wealthy  haciendado, 
one  Julian  Perea,  I  anticipated  an  unusual 
degree  of  hospitality.  On  presenting  the  letter, 
everything  Don  Julian  possessed  was  instantly 
thrown  at  my  feet;  but  out  of  the  magnificent 
gift  I  only  selected  an  armful  of  wood,  from  a 
large  yardful,  for  our  fire,  and  for  which  he 
charged  me  three  rials,  as  well  as  three  more 
for  the  use  of  an  empty  corral  for  the  animals; 
we  ourselves  encamping  outside  his  gate  on  the 
damp  thawing  snow,  without  receiving  the 
ghost  of  an  invitation  to  enter  his  house. 

We  this  day  got  a  first  glimpse  of  one  of  the 
spurs  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  appearing,  far 
in  the  distance,  white  with  snow. 

On  the  20th  we  encamped  in  a  pretty  valley 
on  the  Rio  Grande,  under  a  high  tabular  bluff 
which  overhangs  the  river  on  the  western  bank; 
and  on  the  summit  of  which  are  the  ruins  of  an 
old  Indian  village.  About  two  miles  from  our 
camp  was  the  Pueblo  of  San  Felipe,  a  village 
of  the  tribe  of  Indians  known  as  Pueblos,  or 
Indios  Manzos — half-civilized  Indians. 

During  the  night  our  mulada,  which  was 
grazing  at  large  in  the  prairie,  was  stampeded 
by  the  Indians.  I  was  lying  out  some  distance 
from  the  fire,  when  the  noise  of  their  thundering 
tread  roused  me,  and,  as  they  passed  the  fire 
at  full  gallop,  I  at  once  divined  the  cause. 


58        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

Luckily  for  me,  Panchito,  my  horse,  wheeled 
out  of  the  crowd,  and,  followed  by  his  mules, 
galloped  up  to  the  fire,  and  came  to  me  when  I 
whistled;  the  remainder  of  the  mulada  continu- 
ing their  flight.  The  next  morning,  two  fine 
horses  and  three  mules  were  missing,  and,  of 
course,  were  not  recovered. 

The  next  day  we  encamped  on  Galisteo,  a 
small  stream  coming  from  the  mountains.  We 
had  now  entered  a  wild  broken  country,  covered 
with  pine  and  cedar.  A  curious  ridge  runs  from 
east  to  west,  broken  here  and  there  by  abrupt 
chasms,  which  exhibit  its  formation  in  alternate 
strata  of  shale  and  old  red  sandstone.  There 
are  here  indications  of  coal,  which  are  met 
along  the  whole  of  this  ridge.  We  encamped 
on  a  bleak  bluff,  without  timber  or  grass,  which 
overlooked  the  stream. 

Late  in  the  evening  we  heard  the  creaking  of 
a  wagon's  wheels,  and  the  "wo-ha"  of  the 
driver,  as  he  urged  his  oxen  up  the  sandy  bluff. 
A  wagon  drawn  by  six  yoke  of  oxen  soon  made 
its  appearance,  under  the  charge  of  a  tall  raw- 
boned  Yankee.  As  soon  as  he  had  unyoked  his 
cattle,  he  approached  our  fire,  and,  seating 
himself  almost  in  the  blaze,  stretching  his  long 
legs  at  the  same  time  into  the  ashes,  he  broke 
out  with,  "Cuss  sich  a  darned  country,  I  say! 
Wall,  strangers,  an  ugly  camp  this,  I  swar;  and 
what  my  cattle  ull  do  I  don't  know,  for  they 


TRAVELLING  WITH  THE  ENGINEERS        59 

have  not  eat  since  we  put  out  of  Santa  Fe,  and 
are  darned  near  giv  out,  that's  a  fact;  and  thar's 
nothin'  here  for  'em  to  eat,  surely.  Wall,  they 
must  just  hold  on  till  to-morrow,  for  I  have  only 
got  a  pint  of  corn  apiece  for  'em  to-night  any- 
how, so  there's  no  two  ways  about  that. 
Strangers,  I  guess  now  you'll  have  a  skillet 
among  ye;  if  yer  a  mind  to  trade,  I'll  just  have 
it  right  off;  anyhow,  I'll  just  borrow  it  to-night 
to  bake  my  bread,  and,  if  yer  wish  to  trade, 
name  your  price.  Cuss  sich  a  darned  country, 
say  I!  Jist  look  at  them  oxen,  wull  ye! — they've 
nigh  upon  two  hundred  miles  to  go;  for  I'm 
bound  to  catch  up  the  sogers  afore  they  reach 
the  Pass,  and  there's  not  a  go  in  'em." 

4 'Well,  "I  ventured  to  put  in,  feeling  for  the  poor 
beasts,  which  were  still  yoked  and  standing  in  the 
river  completely  done  up,  "would  it  not  be  as  well 
for  you  to  feed  them  at  once  and  let  them  rest?" 

"Wall,  I  guess  if  you'll  some  of  you  lend  me  a 
hand,  I'll  fix  'em  right  off;  tho',  darn  em'  they've 
giv  me  a  pretty  darned  lot  of  trouble,  they  have, 
darn  em !  but  the  critters  will  have  to  eat,  I  b'lieve." 

I  willingly  lent  him  the  aid  he  required,  and 
also  added  to  their  rations  some  corn  which 
my  animals,  already  full,  were  turning  up  their 
noses  at,  and  which  the  oxen  greedily  devoured. 
This  done  he  returned  to  the  fire  and  baked  his 
cake,  fried  his  bacon,  and  made  his  coffee,  his 
tongue  all  the  while  keeping  up  an  incessant 


60        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

clack.  This^  man  was  by  himself,  having  a 
journey  of  two  hundred  miles  before  him,  and 
twelve  oxen  and  his  wagon  to  look  after:  but 
dollars,  dollars,  dollars  was  all  he  thought  of. 
Everything  he  saw  lying  about  he  instantly 
seized,  wondered  what  it  cost,  what  it  was 
worth,  offered  to  trade  for  it  or  anything  else  by 
which  he  might  turn  a  penny,  never  waiting 
for  an  answer,  and  rattling  on,  eating,  drinking, 
and  talking  without  intermission;  and  at  last, 
gathering  himself  up,  said,  "Wall,  I  guess  I'll 
turn  into  my  wagon  now,  and  some  of  you  will, 
may  be,  give  a  look  round  at  the  cattle  every 
now  and  then,  and  I'll  thank  you:"  and  saying 
this,  with  a  hop,  step,  and  a  jump,  was  inside 
his  wagon  and  snoring  in  a  couple  of  minutes. 
We  broke  up  our  camp  at  daybreak,  leaving 
our  friend  "wo-ha-ing"  his  cattle  through  the 
sandy  bottom,  and  "cussing  the  darned  coun- 
try" at  every  step.  We  crossed  several  ridges 
clothed  with  cedars,  but  destitute  of  grass  or 
other  vegetation;  and  passing  over  a  dismal 
plain  descended  into  a  hollow,  where  lay,  at  the 
bottom  of  a  pine-covered  mountain,  the  miser- 
able mud-built  Santa  Fe;  and  shortly  after, 
wayworn  and  travel-stained,  and  my  poor 
animals  in  a  condition  which  plainly  showed  that 
they  had  seen  some  hard  service,  we  entered  the 
city,  after  a  journey  of  not  much  less  than  two 
thousand  miles. 


CHAPTER  IV 

LAND  OF  THE  PUEBLOS 

p 

SANTA  FE,  the  capital  of  the  province  of 
Nuevo  Mejico,  contains  about  three  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  and  is  situated  about 
fourteen  miles  from  the  left  bank  of  the  Del 
Norte,  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain  forming  one 
of  the  eastern  chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
The  town  is  a  wretched  collection  of  mud- 
houses,  without  a  single  building  of  stone,  al- 
though it  boasts  a  palacio — as  the  adobe  resi- 
dence of  the  Governor  is  called —  a  long  low 
building,  taking  up  the  greater  part  of  one  side 
of  the  plaza  or  public  square,  round  which  runs 
a  portal  or  colonnade  supported  by  pillars  of 
rough  pine.  The  appearance  of  the  town  defies 
description,  and  I  can  compare  it  to  nothing  but 
a  dilapidated  brick-kiln  or  a  prairie-dog  town. 
The  inhabitants  are  worthy  of  their  city,  and  a 
more  miserable,  vicious-looking  population  it 
would  be  impossible  to  imagine.  Neither  was 
the  town  improved,  at  the  time  of  my  visit,  by 
the  addition  to  the  population  of  some  three 
thousand  Americans,  the  dirtiest,  rowdiest  crew 
I  have  ever  seen  collected  together. 

61 


62     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

Crowds  of  drunken  volunteers  filled  the 
streets,  brawling  and  boasting,  but  never 
fighting;  Mexicans,  wrapped  in  sarape,  scowled 
upon  them  as  they  passed;  donkey-loads  of  hoja 
— corn-shucks — were  hawking  about  for  sale; 
and  Pueblo  Indians  and  priests  jostled  the  rude 
crowds  of  brawlers  at  every  step.  Under  the 
portales  were  numerous  monte-tables,  sur- 
rounded by  Mexicans  and  Americans.  Every 
other  house  was  a  grocery,  as  they  call  a  gin  or 
whisky  shop,  continually  disgorging  reeling 
drunken  men,  and  everywhere  filth  and  dirt 
reigned  triumphant. 

The  extent  of  the  province  of  New  Mexico 
is  difficult  to  define,  as  the  survey  of  the  northern 
sections  of  the  republic  has  never  been  under- 
taken,* and  a  great  portion  of  the  country  is  still 
in  the  hands  of  the  aborigines,  who  are  at  con- 
stant war  with  the  Mexicans.  It  has  been 
roughly  estimated  at  6,000  square  miles,  with 
a  population  of  70,000,  including  the  three 
castes  of  descendants  of  the  original  settlers, 
Mestizos,  and  Indies  Manzos  or  Pueblos;  the 
Mestizos,  as  is  the  case  throughout  the  country, 
bearing  a  large  proportion  to  the  Mexico- 
Spanish  portion  of  the  population — in  this  case 
as  50  to  1. 

The  Pueblos,  who  are  the  original  inhabitants 

*  Lieutenant  Abert,  of  the  U.  S.  T.  Engineers,  surveyed  the 
greater  portion  of  New  Mexico  in  1846. 


LAND  OF  THE  PUEBLOS  63 

of  New  Mexico,  and,  living  in  villages,  are 
partially  civilized,  are  the  most  industrious 
portion  of  the  population,  and  cultivate  the 
soil  in  a  higher  degree  than  the  New  Mexicans 
themselves.  In  these  Indians,  in  their  dwellings, 
their  manners,  customs,  and  physical  character, 
may  be  traced  a  striking  analogy  to  the  Aztecans 
or  ancient  Mexicans.  Their  houses  and  villages 
are  constructed  in  the  same  manner  as,  from 
existing  ruins,  we  may  infer  that  the  Aztecans 
constructed  theirs.  These  buildings  are  of  two, 
three,  and  even  five  stories,  without  doors  or 
any  external  communication,  the  entrance  being 
at  the  top  by  means  of  ladders  through  a  trap- 
door in  the  azotea  or  flat  roof.  The  population 
of  the  different  Pueblos  scattered  along  the  Del 
Norte  and  to  the  westward  of  it  is  estimated 
at  12,000,  without  including  the  Moquis,  who 
have  preserved  their  independence  since  the 
year  1680. 

The  general  character  of  the  department  is 
extreme  aridity  of  soil,  and  the  consequent 
deficiency  of  water,  which  must  ever  prevent 
its  being  thickly  settled.  The  valley  of  the  Del 
Norte  is  fertile,  but  of  very  limited  extent; 
and  other  portions  of  the  province  are  utterly 
valueless  in  an  agricultural  point  of  view,  and 
their  metallic  wealth  is  greatly  exaggerated. 
From  association  with  the  hardy  trappers  and 
pioneers  of  the  far  west,  the  New  Mexicans  have 


64       WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

in  some  degree  imbibed  a  portion  of  their 
enterprise  and  hardihood;  for  settlements  have 
been  pushed  far  into  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
whose  inhabitants  are  many  of  them  expert 
buffalo-hunters  and  successful  trappers  of 
beaver.  The  most  northern  of  these  is  on  the 
Rio  Colorado,  or  Red  River  Creek,  an  affluent 
of  the  Del  Norte,  rising  in  the  eastern  chain  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  one  hundred  miles  north 
of  Santa  Fe. 

Of  the  many  so-called  gold-mines  in  New 
Mexico  there  is  but  one  which  has  in  any  degree 
repaid  the  labor  of  working.  This  is  El  Real  de 
Dolores,  more  commonly  known  as  El  Placer, 
situated  eight  leagues  from  Santa  Fe,  on  the 
ridge  of  the  Sierra  Obscura.  The  gold  is  mostly 
found  in  what  is  technically  called  "dust,"  in 
very  small  quantities  and  with  considerable 
labor.  It  has  perhaps  produced,  since  its 
discovery  in  1828,  200,000  dollars,  but  it  is  very 
doubtful  if  any  of  these  placers  would  repay  the 
working  on  a  large  scale. 

It  is  a  favorite  idea  with  the  New  Mexicans 
that  the  Pueblo  Indians  are  acquainted  with  the 
existence  and  localities  of  some  prodigiously 
rich  mines,  which  in  the  early  times  of  the  con- 
quest were  worked  by  the  Spaniards,  at  the 
expense  of  infinite  toil  and  slavery  on  the  part 
of  the  Indians;  and  that,  fearing  that  such 
tyranny  would  be  repeated  if  they  were  to  dis- 


LAND  OF  THE  PUEBLOS  65 

close  their  secret,  they  have  ever  since  steadily 
refused  to  point  them  out. 

It  is  remarkable  that,  although  existing,  from 
the  earliest  times  of  the  colonization  of  New 
Mexico,  a  period  of  two  centuries,  in  a  state  of 
continual  hostility  with  the  numerous  savage 
tribes  of  Indians  who  surround  their  territory, 
and  in  constant  insecurity  of  life  and  property 
from  their  attacks — being  also  far  removed 
from  the  enervating  influences  of  large  cities, 
and,  in  their  isolated  situation,  entirely  de- 
pendent upon  their  own  resources — the  in- 
habitants are  totally  destitute  of  those  qualities 
which,  for  the  above  reasons,  we  might  naturally 
have  expected  to  distinguish  them,  and  are  as 
deficient  in  energy  of  character  and  physical 
courage,  as  they  are  in  all  the  moral  and  in- 
tellectual qualities.  In  their  social  state  but  one 
degree  removed  from  the  veriest  savages,  they 
might  take  a  lesson  even  from  these  in  morality 
and  the  conventional  decencies  of  life.  Imposing 
no  restraint  on  their  passions,  a  shameless  and 
universal  concubinage  exists,  and  a  total  dis- 
regard of  moral  laws,  to  which  it  would  be  im- 
possible to  find  a  parallel  in  any  country  calling 
itself  civilized.  A  want  of  honorable  principle, 
and  consummate  duplicity  and  treachery,  char- 
acterize all  their  dealings.  Liars  by  nature,  they 
are  treacherous  and  faithless  to  their  friends, 
cowardly  and  cringing  to  their  enemies;  cruel 


66        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

as  all  cowards  are,  they  unite  savage  ferocity 
with  their  want  of  animal  courage;  as  an  ex- 
ample of  which,  their  recent  massacre  of  Gover- 
nor Bent  and  other  Americans  may  be  given — 
one  of  a  hundred  instances. 

I  have  before  observed  that  a  portion  of  the 
population  of  New  Mexico  consists  of  Indians, 
called  Pueblos,  from  the  fact  of  their  living  in 
towns,  who  are  in  a  semi-civilized  state,  and  in 
whose  condition  .may  be  traced  an  analogy  to 
the  much  exaggerated  civilization  of  the  ancient 
Mexicans.  It  is  well  known  that,  in  the  tradi- 
tions of  that  people,  the  Aztecs  migrated  from 
the  north,  from  regions  beyond  the  Gila,  where 
they  made  the  first  of  their  three  great  halts; 
but  it  is  generally  supposed  that  no  traces  of 
their  course,  or  former  habitation,  existed  to  the 
northward  of  this  river.  In  the  country  of  the 
Navajos,  as  well  as  in  the  territories  of  the 
independent  Moqui,  are  still  discoverable  traces 
of  their  residence,  and,  as  I  have  before  re- 
marked, the  Pueblo  Indians  construct  and  in- 
habit houses  and  villages  of  the  same  form  and 
material  as  the  casas  grandes  [great  houses] 
of  the  ancient  Mexicans;  retain  many  of  their 
customs  and  domestic  arts,  as  they  have  been 
handed  down  to  us,  and  numerous  traces  of  a 
common  origin. 

Amongst  many  of  the  religious  forms  still 
retained  by  these  people,  perhaps  the  most 


LAND  OF  THE  PUEBLOS  67 

interesting  is  the  perpetuation  of  the  holy  fire, 
by  the  side  of  which  the  Aztecs  kept  a  con- 
tinual watch  for  the  return  to  earth  of  Quetzal- 
coatl — the  god  of  air — who,  according  to  their 
tradition,  visited  the  earth,  and  instructed  the 
inhabitants  in  agriculture  and  other  useful  arts. 
During  his  sojourn  he  caused  the  earth  to  yield 
tenfold  productions,  without  the  necessity  of 
human  labor:  everywhere  corn,  fruit  and  flowers 
delighted  the  eye;  the  cotton-plant  produced 
its  woof  already  dyed  by  nature  with  various 
hues;  aromatic  odors  pervaded  the  air;  and  on 
all  sides  resounded  the  melodious  notes  of 
singing-birds.  The  lazy  Mexican  naturally 
looks  back  to  this  period  as  the  "golden  age"; 
and  as  this  popular  and  beneficent  deity,  on  his 
departure  from  earth,  promised  faithfully  to 
return  and  revisit  the  people  he  loved  so  well, 
this  event  is  confidently  expected  to  the  present 
day.  Quetzalcoatl  embarked,  in  his  boat  of 
rattlesnake-skins,  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico;  and  as 
he  was  seen  to  steer  to  the  eastward,  his  arrival 
is  consequently  looked  for  from  that  quarter. 
When  the  Spaniards  arrived  from  the  east,  as 
they  resembled  the  god  in  the  color  of  their 
skin,  they  were  at  first  generally  supposed  to  be 
messengers  from,  or  descendants  of,  the  god  of 
air. 

This  tradition  is  common  to  the  nations  even 
of  the  far-off  north,  and  in  New  Mexico  the 


68        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

belief  is  still  clung  to  by  the  Pueblo  Indians, 
who  in  a  solitary  cave  of  the  mountains  have 
for  centuries  continued  their  patient  vigils  by 
the  undying  fire;  and  its  dim  light  may  still  be 
seen  by  the  wandering  hunter  glimmering  from 
the  recesses  of  a  cave,  when,  led  by  the  chase, 
he  passes  in  the  vicinity  of  this  humble  and 
lonely  temple. 

Far  to  the  north,  in  the  country  of  the  Mo- 
quis,  the  hunters  have  passed,  wonderingly, 
ruins  of  large  cities,  and  towns  inhabited  by 
Indians,  of  the  same  construction  as  those  of  the 
Pueblos,  and  identical  with  the  casas  grandes 
on  the  Gila  and  elsewhere. 

In  the  absence  of  any  evidence,  traditionary 
or  otherwise,  on  which  to  found  an  hypothesis 
as  to  the  probable  cause  of  the  migration  of  the 
Mexicans  from  the  north,  I  have  surmised  that 
it  is  just  possible  that  they  may  have  abandoned 
that  region  on  account  of  the  violent  volcanic 
convulsions  which,  from  the  testimony  of  people 
who  have  visited  these  regions,  I  have  no  doubt 
have  at  a  comparatively  recent  period  agitated 
that  portion  of  the  country;  and  from  my  own 
knowledge  the  volcanic  formations  become 
gradually  more  recent  as  they  advance  to  the 
north  along  the  whole  table-land  from  Mexico  to 
Santa  Fe.  These  disturbances  may  have  led 
to  their  frequent  changes  of  residence,  and 
ultimate  arrival  in  the  south.  If  their  object 


LAND  OF  THE  PUEBLOS  69 

was  to  fly  from  such  constantly  recurring  com- 
motions, their  course  would  naturally  be  to  the 
south,  where  they  might  expect  a  genial  soil 
and  climate,  in  a  direction  in  which  they  might 
also  avoid  the  numerous  and  warlike  nations 
who  inhabited  the  regions  south  of  their  aban- 
doned country.  Thus  we  find  the  remains  of  the 
towns  built  in  the  course  of  their  migration, 
generally  in  insulated  spots  of  fertility,  oases 
in  the  vast  and  barren  tracts  they  were  obliged 
to  traverse,  which  spread  from  the  shores  of  the 
great  salt-lake  of  the  north  towards  the  valley 
of  the  Gila,  and  still  southward  along  the  ridges 
of  the  Cordillera,  which,  a  continuation  of  the 
Andes  chain,  stretch  far  away  to  the  southern 
portion  of  the  country. 

The  Indians  of  Northern  Mexico,  including 
the  Pueblos,  belong  to  the  same  family — the 
Apache;  from  which  branch  the  Navajos, 
Apaches  Coyoteros,  Mescaleros,  Moquis,  Yubi- 
pias,  Maricopas,  Chiricaquis,  Chemeguabas, 
Yumayas  (the  last  two  tribes  of  the  Moqui), 
and  the  Nijoras,  a  small  tribe  on  the  Gila.  All 
these  speak  dialects  of  the  same  language,  more 
or  less  approximating  to  the  Apache,  and  of  all 
of  which  the  idiomatic  structure  is  the  same. 
They  likewise  all  understand  each  other's  tongue. 
What  relation  this  language  bears  to  the  Mexican 
is  unknown,  but  my  impression  is  that  it  will  be 
found  to  assimilate  greatly,  if  not  to  be  identical. 


70        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

The  Pueblo  Indians  of  Taos,  Pecuris,  and 
Acoma  speak  a  language  of  which  a  dialect  is 
used  by  those  of  the  Rio  Abajo,  including  the 
Pueblos  of  San  Felipe,  Sandia,  Ysleta,  and 
Xemez.  They  are  eminently  distinguished  from 
the  New  Mexicans  in  their  social  and  moral 
character,  being  industrious,  sober,  honest, 
brave,  and  at  the  same  time  peaceably  inclined 
if  their  rights  are  not  infringed.  Although  the 
Pueblos  are  nominally  Cristianos,  and  have 
embraced  the  outward  forms  of  la  santa  fe 
Catolica,  they  yet,  in  fact,  still  cling  to  the 
belief  of  their  fathers,  and  celebrate  in  secret 
the  ancient  rites  of  their  religion.  The  aged  and 
devout  of  both  sexes  may  still  be  often  seen  on 
their  flat  house-tops,  with  their  faces  turned  to 
the  rising  sun,  and  their  gaze  fixed  in  that  direc- 
tion from  whence  they  expect,  sooner  or  later, 
the  god  of  air  will  make  his  appearance.  They 
are  careful,  however,  not  to  practise  any  of 
their  rites  before  strangers,  and  ostensibly  con- 
form to  the  ceremonies  of  the  Roman  Church. 

In  the  country  of  the  Moquis  are  the  remains 
of  five  cities  of  considerable  extent,  the  founda- 
tions and  some  of  the  walls  of  which  (of  stone) 
are  still  standing,  and  on  the  sites  of  some  they 
still  inhabit  villages,  the  houses  of  which  are 
frequently  built  of  the  materials  found  amongst 
the  ruins.  A  great  quantity  of  broken  pottery 
is  found  wherever  these  remains  exist,  the  same 


LAND  OF  THE  PUEBLOS  71 

in  form  and  material  as  the  relics  of  the  same 
kind  preserved  in  the  city  of  Mexico.  The  ruins 
on  the  Gila,  in  particular,  abound  in  these  re- 
mains, and  I  have  been  assured  that  for  many 
miles  the  plain  is  strewed  with  them.  There  are 
also  remains  of  acequias,  or  irrigating  canals, 
of  great  length  and  depth. 

The  five  pueblos  in  the  Moqui  are  Orayxa, 
Masanais,  Jongoapi,  Gualpi,  and  another,  the 
name  of  which  is  not  known.  This  tribe  is, 
curiously  enough,  known  to  the  trappers  and 
hunters  of  the  mountains  as  the  Welsh  Indians. 
They  are,  they  say,  much  fairer  in  complexion 
than  other  tribes,  and  have  several  individuals 
amongst  them  perfectly  white,  with  light  hair. 
The  latter  circumstance  is  accounted  for  by  the 
frequent  occurrence  amongst  the  Navajos,  and 
probably  the  Moquis  also,  of  albinos,  with  the 
Indian  feature,  but  light  complexions,  eyes,  and 
hair. 

In  connection  with  this,  I  may  mention  a 
curious  circumstance  which  happened  to  me, 
and  tends  to  show  that  there  is  some  little 
foundation  for  the  belief  of  the  trappers,  that 
the  Moqui  Indians  are  descendants  of  the  fol- 
lowers of  Prince  Madoc. 

I  happened  on  my  arrival  at  the  frontier  of 
the  United  States  (at  Fort  Leavenworth)  to 
enter  the  log  hut  of  an  old  negro  woman, 
being  at  the  time  in  my  mountain  attire  of 


72        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

buckskins,  over  which  was  thrown  a  Moqui  or 
Navajo  blanket,  as  it  was  wet  weather.  The 
old  dame's  attention  was  called  to  it  by  its 
varied  and  gaudy  colors,  and,  examining  it 
carefully  for  some  time,  she  exclaimed,  "That's 
a  Welsh  blanket;  I  know  it  by  the  woof!"  She 
had,  she  told  me,  in  her  youth,  lived  for  many 
years  in  a  Welsh  family  and  in  a  Welsh  settle- 
ment in  Virginia,  or  one  of  the  southern  States, 
and  had  learned  their  method  of  working, 
which  was  the  same  as  that  displayed  in  my 
blanket.  The  blankets  and  tilmas  manufactured 
by  the  Navajos,  Moquis,  and  the  Pueblos  are 
of  excellent  quality,  and  dyed  in  durable  and 
bright  colors:  the  warp  is  of  cotton  filled  with 
wool,  the  texture  close  and  impervious  to  rain. 
Their  pottery  is,  as  I  have  before  remarked,  the 
same  as  that  manufactured  by  the  Aztecs, 
painted  in  bright  patterns  by  colored  earths  and 
the  juice  of  several  plants.  The  dress  of  the 
Pueblos  is  a  mixture  of  their  ancient  costume 
with  that  introduced  by  the  Spaniards.  A  tilma, 
or  small  blanket  without  sleeves,  is  worn  over 
the  shoulder,  and  their  legs  and  feet  are  pro- 
tected by  moccasins  and  leggings  of  deerskin 
or  woollen  stuff.  Their  heads  are  uncovered,  and 
their  hair  long  and  unconfined,  save  the  centre 
or  scalp  lock,  which  is  usually  bound  with  gay- 
colored  ribbon.  The  women's  dress  is  the  same 
as  that  of  the  squaws  of  the  wild  Indians  of  the 


LAND  OF  THE  PUEBLOS  73 

prairies,  generally  covered  with  a  bright- 
colored  blanket,  or  a  mantle  of  cloth. 

The  Pueblo  Indians  have  been  more  than 
once  the  chief  actors  in  the  many  insurrections 
which  have  disturbed  this  remote  province.  In 
1837  they  overturned  the  government,  killing 
the  incapable  man  at  the  head  of  it,  as  they 
had  done  his  predecessor,  and  placing  one  of 
their  own  party  at  the  head  of  affairs.  Recently 
they  rose  upon  the  Americans,  who  have  taken 
possession  of  the  country,  and,  in  conjunction 
with  the  Mexicans,  massacred  Governor  Bent 
and  many  others.  They  were  defeated  by  the 
American  troops  in  a  pitched  battle  at  La 
Canada,  but  defended  most  gallantly  their  chief 
pueblo  (of  Taos),  which  was  taken  and  des- 
troyed after  a  desperate  resistance. 

Although  I  had  determined  to  remain  some 
time  in  Santa  Fe  to  recruit  my  animals,  I  was 
so  disgusted  with  the  filth  of  the  town,  and  the 
disreputable  society  a  stranger  was  forced  into, 
that  in  a  very  few  days  I  once  more  packed  my 
mules,  and  proceeded  to  the  north,  through  the 
valley  of  Taos. 

It  was  a  cold,  snowy  day  on  which  I  left 
Santa  Fe,  and  the  mountain,  although  here  of 
inconsiderable  elevation,  was  difficult  to  cross 
on  account  of  the  drifts.  My  mules,  too,  were 
for  the  first  time  introduced  to  snow  on  a  large 
scale,  and,  by  their  careful,  mincing  steps  and 


74        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

cautious  movements,  testified  their  doubts  as 
to  the  security  of  such  a  road.  The  mountain 
is  covered  with  pine  and  cedar,  and  the  road 
winds  through  the  bed  of  an  arroyo,  between 
high  banks  now  buried  in  the  snow.  Not  a 
living  thing  was  visible,  but  once  a  large  grey 
wolf  was  surprised  on  our  turning  a  corner  of 
rock,  and  in  his  hurry  to  escape  plunged  into  a 
snowdrift,  where  I  could  easily  have  despatched 
the  animal  with  a  pistol,  but  Panchito  was  in 
such  a  state  of  affright  that  nothing  would 
induce  him  to  stand  still  or  approach  the  spot. 

Over  ridges  and  through  mountain-gorges 
we  passed  into  a  small  valley,  where  the  pueblo 
of  Ohuaqui  afforded  me  shelter  for  the  night, 
and  a  warm  stable  with  plenty  of  corn  for  my 
animals,  a  luxury  they  had  long  been  unac- 
customed to. 

I  was  here  made  welcome  by  the  Indian 
family,  who  prepared  my  supper  of  frijoles  and 
atole,  the  last  the  dish  of  New  Mexico.  It  is 
made  of  the  Indian  meal,  mixed  with  water  into 
a  thick  gruel,  and  thus  eaten — an  insipid  com- 
pound. Far  more  agreeable  is  the  pinole  of  the 
tierra  afuera  [countryside],  which  is  the  meal  of 
parched  maize,  mixed  with  sugar  and  spices, 
and  of  which  a  handful  in  a  pint  of  water  makes 
a  most  cooling  and  agreeable  drink,  and  is  the 
great  standby  of  the  arrieros  and  road-travellers 
in  that  starving  country. 


LAND  OF  THE  PUEBLOS  75 

The  patrona  of  the  family  seemed  rather  shy 
of  me  at  first,  until,  in  the  course  of  conversa- 
tion, she  discovered  that  I  was  an  Englishman. 
"Gracias  a  Dios,"  she  exclaimed,  "a  Chris- 
tian will  sleep  with  us  to-night,  and  not  an 
American!" 

I  found  over  all  New  Mexico  that  the  most 
bitter  feeling  and  most  determined  hostility 
existed  against  the  Americans,  who  certainly  in 
Santa  Fe  and  elsewhere  have  not  been  very 
anxious  to  conciliate  the  people,  but  by  their 
bullying  and  overbearing  demeanor  towards 
them,  have  in  a  great  measure  been  the  cause 
of  this  hatred,  which  shortly  after  broke  out  hi 
an  organized  rising  of  the  northern  part  of  the 
province,  and  occasioned  great  loss  of  life  to 
both  parties. 

After  supper  the  women  of  the  family  spread 
the  floor  with  blankets,  and  every  one,  myself 
included,  cigar  in  mouth,  lay  down — to  the 
number  of  fifteen — in  a  space  of  less  than  that 
number  of  square  feet;  men,  women,  and 
children,  all  smoking  and  chattering.  Just 
over  my  head  were  roosting  several  fowls;  and 
one  venerable  cock  every  five  minutes  saluted 
us  with  a  shrill  crow,  to  the  infinite  satisfaction 
of  the  old  Indian,  who  at  every  fresh  one  ex- 
claimed, "Ay,  como  canta  mi  gallo,  tan  claro! — 
how  clear  sings  my  cock,  the  fine  fellow!" 


76       WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

"Valgame  Dios!  que  paxarito  tan  hermoso! — 
what  a  lovely  little  bird  is  this !" 

The  next  day,  passing  the  miserable  village 
of  La  Canada,  and  the  Indian  pueblo  of  San 
Juan,  both  situated  in  a  wretched,  sterile- 
looking  country,  we  reached  El  Embudo — the 
funnel — where  I  put  up  in  the  house  of  an  old 
Canadian  trapper,  who  had  taken  to  himself  a 
Mexican  wife,  and  was  ending  his  days  as  a 
quiet  ranchero.  He  appeared  to  have  forgotten 
the  plenty  of  the  mountains,  for  his  pretty 
daughter  set  before  us  for  supper  a  plate  con- 
taining six  small  pieces  of  fat  pork,  like  dice, 
floating  in  a  sea  of  grease,  hot  and  red  with 
chile  Colorado. 

We  crossed,  next  day,  a  range  of  mountains 
covered  with  pine  and  cedar:  on  the  latter  grew 
great  quantities  of  mistletoe,  and  the  contrast 
of  its  bright  green  and  the  sombre  hue  of  the 
cedars  was  very  striking.  The  snow  was  melting 
on  the  ascent,  which  was  exposed  to  the  sun, 
and  made  the  road  exceedingly  slippery  and 
tiring  to  the  animals.  On  reaching  the  summit 
a  fine  prospect  presented  itself.  The  Rocky 
Mountains,  stretching  away  on  each  side  of 
me,  here  divided  into  several  branches,  whose 
isolated  peaks  stood  out  in  bold  relief  against 
the  clear,  cold  sky.  Valleys  and  plains  lay  be- 
tween them,  through  which  the  river  wound 
its  way  in  deep  canons.  In  the  distance  was 


LAND  OF  THE  PUEBLOS  77 

the  snowy  summit  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
bright  with  the  rays  of  the  setting  sun,  and  at 
my  feet  lay  the  smiling  vale  of  Taos,  with  its 
numerous  villages  and  the  curiously  con- 
structed pueblos  of  the  Indians.  Snow-covered 
mountains  surrounded  it,  whose  ridges  were 
flooded  with  light,  while  the  valley  was  almost 
shrouded  in  gloom  and  darkness. 

On  descending  I  was  obliged  to  dismount  and 
lead  my  horse,  whose  feet,  balled  with  snow, 
were  continually  slipping  from  under  him. 
After  sunset  the  cold  was  intense,  and,  wading 
through  the  snow,  my  moccasins  became 
frozen,  so  that  I  was  obliged  to  travel  quickly 
to  prevent  my  feet  from  being  frost-bitten. 
It  was  quite  dark  when  I  reached  the  plain,  and 
the  night  was  so  obscure  that  the  track  was 
perfectly  hidden,  and  my  only  guide  was  the 
distant  lights  of  the  villages.  Coming  to  a 
frozen  brook,  the  mules  refused  to  cross  the 
ice,  and  I  spent  an  hour  in  fruitless  attempts  to 
induce  them.  I  could  find  nothing  at  hand  with 
which  to  break  the  ice,  and  at  length,  half 
frozen,  was  obliged  to  turn  back  and  retrace 
my  steps  to  a  rancho,  which  the  Indian  boy  who 
was  my  guide  said  was  about  a  mile  distant. 
This  I  at  length  reached,  though  not  before  one 
of  my  feet  was  frost-bitten,  and  my  hands  so 
completely  numbed  by  the  excessive  cold  that 
I  was  unable  to  unpack  the  mules  when  I  got 


78        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

in.  To  protect  the  poor  animals  from  the  cold, 
as  there  was  no  stable  to  place  them  in,  I 
devoted  the  whole  of  my  bedding  to  cover  them, 
reserving  to  myself  only  a  sarape,  which,  how- 
ever, by  the  side  of  a  blazing  wood  fire,  was 
sufficient  to  keep  me  warm.  The  good  lady  of 
Jhe  house  sent  me  a  huge  bowl  of  atole  as  I  was 
engaged  in  clothing  the  animals,  which  I 
offered  to  Panchito  as  soon  as  the  messenger's 
back  was  turned,  and  he  swallowed  it,  boiling 
hot  as  it  was,  with  great  gusto. 

The  next  morning,  with  the  assistance  of 
some  rancheros,  I  crossed  the  stream,  and 
arrived  at  Fernandez,  which  is  the  most  con- 
siderable village  in  the  valley. 


CHAPTER  V 

MEXICAN  GRATITUDE 

EL  VALLE  DE  TAGS  is  situated  about 
eighty  miles  to  the  northward  of  Santa 
Fe,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Del  Norte. 
It  contains  several  villages  or  rancherias,  the 
largest  of  which  are  Fernandez  and  El  Rancho. 
The  population  of  the  valley  may  be  estimated 
at  eight  thousand,  including  the  Pueblo  Indians. 
The  soil  is  exceedingly  fertile,  and  produces 
excellent  wheat  and  other  grain.  The  climate 
being  rigorous,  and  the  summers  short,  fruit 
does  not  ripen  to  perfection,  but  vegetables 
of  all  kinds  are  good  and  abundant,  onions  in 
particular  growing  to  great  size  and  of  excellent 
flavor.  The  climate  is  colder  than  at  Santa  Fe, 
the  thermometer  sometimes  falling  to  zero  in 
winter,  and  seldom  rising  above  75°  in  summer; 
the  nights  in  summer  being  delightfully  cool, 
but  in  winter  piercingly  cold.  Although  gener- 
ally healthy,  infectious  disorders  are  sometimes 
prevalent  and  fatal;  and  periodical  epidemics 
have  on  several  occasions  nearly  decimated  the 
inhabitants. 

In  all  maps  the  valley  of  Taos  is  confounded 
79 


80        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

with  a  city  which  under  that  name  appears 
in  them,  but  which  does  not  exist,  Fernandez 
being  the  chief  town  of  the  valley,  and  no  such 
town  as  Taos  to  be  found.  The  valley  derives 
its  name  from  the  Taoses,  a  tribe  of  Indians 
who  once  inhabited  it,  and  the  remains  of  which 
inhabit  a  pueblo  under  the  mountain  about 
seven  miles  from  Fernandez.  Humboldt  men- 
tions Taos  as  a  city  containing  8,900 inhabitants. 
Its  latitude  is  about  36°  30',  longitude  between 
105°  30'  and  106°  west  of  Greenwich,  but  its 
exact  position  has  never  been  accurately  deter- 
mined. The  extent  of  the  valley  from  El 
Rancho  to  Arroyo  Hondo  is  seventeen  miles, 
the  breadth  from  the  Del  Norte  to  the  moun- 
tains about  the  same. 

Several  distilleries  are  worked  both  at  Fer- 
nandez and  El  Rancho,  the  latter  better  known 
to  Americans  as  The  Ranch.  Most  of  them 
belong  to  Americans,  who  are  generally  trappers 
and  hunters,  who  having  married  Taos  women 
have  settled  here.  The  Taos  whisky,  a  raw 
fiery  spirit  which  they  manufacture,  has  a 
ready  market  in  the  mountains  amongst  the 
trappers  and  hunters,  and  the  Indian  traders, 
who  find  the  "fire-water"  the  most  profitable 
article  of  trade  with  the  aborigines,  who 
exchange  for  it  their  buffalo  robes  and  other 
peltries  at  a  "tremendous  sacrifice." 

In  Fernandez  I  was  hospitably  entertained 


MEXICAN  GRATITUDE  81 

in  the  house  of  an  American  named  Lee,  who 
had  for  many  years  traded  and  trapped  in  the 
mountains,  but  who  now,  having  married  a 
Mexican  woman,  had  set  up  a  distillery  and  was 
amassing  a  considerable  fortune.  He  gave  me  a 
pressing  invitation  to  stop  the  winter  with  him, 
which  I  was  well  inclined  to  accept,  if  I  could 
have  obtained  good  pasture  for  my  animals; 
that,  however,  was  not  to  be  had,  and  I  con- 
tinued my  journey.  A  few  days  after  my 
departure,  Lee's  house  was  attacked  by  the 
Mexicans,  at  the  time  when  they  massacred 
Governor  Bent  in  the  same  village,  and  himself 
killed,  with  every  foreigner  in  the  place  except- 
ing the  brother  of  Lee,  who  was  protected  by 
the  priest  and  saved  by  him  from  the  savage 
fury  of  the  mob. 

Bent,  as  well  as  Lee,  had  resided  many  years 
in  New  Mexico,  both  having  wives  and  children 
in  the  country,  and  were  supposed  to  have  been 
much  esteemed  by  the  people.  The  former  was 
an  old  trader  amongst  the  Indians,  and  the 
owner  of  Bent's  Fort,  or  Fort  William,  a  trading- 
post  on  the  Arkansa,  well  known  for  its  hospi- 
tality to  travellers  in  the  far  west.  From  his 
knowledge  of  the  country  and  the  Mexican 
character,  Mr.  Bent  had  been  appointed  Gov- 
ernor of  New  Mexico  by  General  Kearney, 
and  it  was  during  a  temporary  visit  to  his 
family  at  Fernandez  that  he  was  killed  in  their 


82        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

presence,  and  scalped  and  mutilated,  by  a  mob 
of  Pueblos  and  the  people  of  Taos.* 

William  Bent  was  one  of  those  hardy  sons 
of  enterprise  with  whom  America  abounds,  who, 
from  love  of  dangerous  adventure,  forsake  the 
quiet  monotonous  life  of  the  civilized  world  for 
the  excitement  of  a  sojourn  in  the  far  west. 
For  many  years  he  traded  with  Indians  on  the 
Platte  and  Arkansa,  winning  golden  opinions 
from  the  poor  Indians  for  his  honesty  and  fair 
dealing,  and  the  greatest  popularity  from  the 
hardy  trappers  and  mountaineers  for  his  firm- 
ness of  character  and  personal  bravery. 

Notwithstanding  the  advice  I  received  not  to 
attempt  such  a  journey  at  this  season,  I  de- 
termined to  cross  the  mountains  and  winter  on  the 
other  side,  either  at  the  head  of  Arkansa  or  Platte, 
or  in  some  of  the  mountain  valleys,  which  are  the 
wintering  places  of  many  of  the  trappers  and 
mountain-men.  I  therefore  hired  a  half-breed 
Pueblo  as  a  guide,  who,  by  the  by,  was  one  of  the 
most  rascally-looking  of  rascally  Mexicans,  and 
on  the  1st  of  January  was  once  more  on  my  way. 

*  Charles  Bent  went  to  the  Far  West  in  1828,  over  the  Santa 
Fe  trail.  He  entered  into  a  business  partnership  with  Col.  Ceran 
St.  Vrain  which  developed  into  one  of  the  most  important  firms 
engaged  in  the  fur  trade.  He  was  appointed  Governor  of  New 
Mexico  in  September,  1846  On  the  early  morning  of  January 
19,  1847,  while  visiting  at  Taos,  he  was  attacked  in  his  residence 
by  a  party  of  insurrectionists.  While  parleying  with  the  mob,  he 
wag  wounded  and  scalped  alive.  Covering  his  bleeding  head 
with  both  hands,  he  tried  to  escape,  but  was  shot  dead  at  the 
feet  of  his  wife  and  children.  (Ed.) 


MEXICAN  GRATITUDE  83 

I  left  Fernandez  late  in  the  day,  as  I  intended 
to  proceed  only  twelve  miles  to  Arroyo  Hondo, 
and  there  remain  for  the  night.  After  proceed- 
ing a  mile  or  two  we  came  to  a  stream  about 
thirty  feet  in  breadth  and  completely  frozen. 
Here  the  mules  came  to  a  stop,  and  nothing 
would  induce  them  to  attempt  to  cross.  Even 
the  last  resource,  that  of  crossing  myself  on 
Panchito,  and  pretending  to  ride  away  with 
their  favorite,  entirely  failed,  although  they  ran 
up  and  down  the  bank  bellowing  with  affright, 
smelling  the  ice,  feeling  it  with  their  fore  feet 
and,  throwing  up  their  heads,  would  gallop 
to  another  point,  and  up  and  down,  in  great 
commotion.  At  length  I  had  to  take  a  pole, 
which  was  opportunely  lying  near,  and  break 
the  ice  away,  having  to  remove  the  broken 
blocks  entirely  before  they  would  attempt  it. 
With  all  this,  however,  my  old  hunting-mule 
still  refused;  but,  as  I  knew  she  would  not  be 
left  behind,  I  proceeded  on  with  the  rest.  At 
this  she  became  frantic,  galloped  away  from  the 
river,  returned,  bellowed  and  cried,  and  at 
last,  driven  to  desperation,  she  made  a  jump 
right  into  the  air,  but  not  near  the  broken  place, 
and  came  down  like  a  lump  of  lead  on  the  top 
of  the  ice,  which,  of  course,  smashed  under  her 
weight,  and  down  she  went  into  a  deep  hole, 
her  head  just  appearing  out  of  the  water,  which 
was  "mush"  with  ice.  In  this  "fix"  she  remained 


84        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

perfectly  still,  apparently  conscious  that  her 
own  exertions  would  be  unavailing;  and  I 
therefore  had  to  return,  and,  up  to  my  middle 
in  water,  break  her  out  of  the  ice,  expecting 
every  moment  to  see  her  drop  frozen  to  death. 
At  last,  and  with  great  labor,  I  extricated  her, 
when  she  at  once  ran  up  to  the  horse  and 
whinnied  her  delight  at  the  meeting. 

By  this  time  it  was  pitchy  dark,  and  the  cold 
had  become  intense;  my  moccasins  and  deer- 
skin leggings  were  frozen  hard  and  stiff,  and  my 
feet  and  legs  in  a  fair  way  of  becoming  in  the 
same  state.  There  was  no  road  or  track,  the 
snow  everywhere  covering  the  country,  and 
my  guide  had  evidently  lost  his  way.  However, 
I  asked  him  in  which  direction  he  thought 
Arroyo  Hondo  to  be,  and  pushed  straight  on 
for  it,  floundering  through  the  snow,  and  falling 
into  holes  and  ravines,  and  at  length  was 
brought  to  a  dead  halt,  my  horse  throwing 
himself  on  his  haunches,  and  just  saving  his 
master  and  himself  a  fall  down  a  precipice  some 
500  feet  in  depth,  which  formed  one  side  of  the 
Arroyo  Hondo. 

The  lights  of  the  rancho  to  which  we  were 
bound  twinkled  at  the  bottom,  but  to  attempt 
to  reach  it,  without  knowing  the  road  down  the 
ravine,  was  like  jumping  from  the  top  of  the 
Monument.  However,  as  I  felt  I  was  on  the 
point  of  freezing  to  death,  I  became  desperate 


MEXICAN  GRATITUDE  85 

and  charged  the  precipice,  intending  to  roll 
down  with  Panchito,  if  we  could  not  do  better; 
but  the  horse  refused  to  move,  and  presently, 
starting  to  one  side  as  I  spurred  him,  fell  head- 
long into  a  snow-drift  some  twenty  feet  in 
depth,  where  I  lay  under  him;  and,  satisfied 
in  my  mind  that  I  was  "in  extremis,"  wished 
myself  further  from  Arroyo  Hondo  and  de- 
plored my  evil  destiny.  Panchito,  however, 
managed  to  kick  himself  out;  and  I,  half 
smothered  and  with  one  of  my  ribs  disabled, 
soon  followed  his  example,  and  again  mounted. 
We  presently  came  to  a  little  adobe  house,  and 
a  man,  hearing  our  cries  to  each  other  in  the 
dark,  came  out  with  a  light.  To  my  request  for 
a  night's  lodging  he  replied,  'Wo  se  puede,  no 
habia  mas  que  un  quartito" — that  there  was 
no  room,  but  one  little  chamber,  but  that  at 
the  rancho  I  would  be  well  accommodated. 
With  this  hint  I  moved  on,  freezing  in  my  sad- 
dle, and  again  attempted  to  descend,  but  the 
darkness  was  pitchy,  and  the  road  a  wall. 
Whilst  attempting  the  descent  once  more,  a 
light  appeared  on  the  bank  above  us,  and  a 
female  voice  cried  out,  "Veulvase  amigo,  por 
Dios!  que  no  se  baja — return,  friend,  for  God's 
sake!  and  don't  attempt  to  go  down."  "Que 
vengan,  pobrecitos,  para  calentarse — come,  poor 
fellows,  and  warm  yourselves."  "Por  hi  se 
sube,  por  hi — this  way,  this  is  the  way  up" — she 


86        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

cried  to  us,  holding  up  the  light  to  direct  our 
steps.  "Ay  de  mi,  como  suffren  los  pobres  viageros! 
— alas,  what  poor  travellers  suffer!" — she 
exclaimed,  eyeing  our  frozen  appearance,  and 
clothes  white  with  snow;  and,  still  holding  up 
the  light,  she  led  the  way  to  her  house,  where 
now,  lectured  by  his  wife  for  his  inhospitality, 
the  man  who  had  sent  us  away  from  his  door 
bestirred  himself  to  unpack  the  mules,  which, 
with  our  numbed  hands,  it  was  impossible 
for  us  to  do. 

A  little  shed  full  of  corn-shucks  (the  leaf  of 
the  maize,  of  which  animals  are  very  fond) 
provided  a  warm  shelter  for  the  shivering 
beasts;  and  having  attended  to  their  wants,  and 
piled  before  them  enough  hoja  for  a  regiment  of 
cavalry,  I  entered  the  house,  where  half  a  dozen 
women  were  soon  rubbing  life  into  my  hands 
and  feet,  which  were  badly  frost-bitten,  whilst 
others  were  busy  preparing  atole  and  chile, 
and  making  tortillas  on  the  hearth. 

A  white  stone  marks  this  day  of  my  journey, 
when,  for  the  first  time,  I  met  with  native 
hospitality  on  Arroyo  Hondo.  In  this  family, 
which  consisted  of  about  fifteen  souls,  six  were 
on  their  beds,  suffering  from  sarampion — the 
measles — which  was  at  the  time  of  my  journey 
carrying  off  many  victims  in  Santa  Fe  and  Taos 
Valley.  An  old  crone  was  busy  decocting 
simples  in  a  large  olla  over  the  fire.  She  asked 


MEXICAN  GRATITUDE  87 

me  to  taste  it,  giving  it  the  name  of  aceite  de 
vivoras — rattlesnake-oil;  and  as  I  expressed  my 
disgust  by  word  and  deed  at  the  intimation, 
which  just  saved  my  taking  a  gulp,  the  old  lady 
was  convulsed  with  laughter,  giving  me  to 
understand  that  it  was  not  really  viper-oil,  but 
was  so  called — no  mas.  This  pot,  when  cooked, 
was  set  on  one  side,  and  all  the  patients,  one 
after  the  other,  crawled  from  their  blankets  and 
imbibed  the  decoction  from  a  gourd.  One  of 
the  sick  was  the  mother  of  the  family,  who  had 
run  after  us  to  bring  us  back  when  her  husband 
had  told  her  of  our  situation — one  instance  of 
the  many  which  I  have  met  of  the  kindness  of 
heart  of  Mexican  women. 

The  next  morning  we  descended  into  the 
Arroyo.  Even  in  daylight  the  track  down  was 
exceedingly  dangerous,  and  to  have  attempted 
it  in  the  dark  would  have  been  an  act  of  no 
little  temerity.;  On  the  other  bank  of  the  stream 
was  situated  a  mill  and  distillery  belonging  to 
an  American  by  the  name  of  Turley,  who  had 
quite  a  thriving  establishment.  Sheep. and 
goats,  and  innumerable  hogs,  ran  about  the 
corral;  his  barns  were  filled  with  grain  of  all 
kinds,  his  mill  with  flour,  and  his  cellars  with 
whisky  "in  galore."  Everything  about  the  place 
betokened  prosperity.!  Rosy  children,  uniting 
the  fair  complexions  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  with 
the  dark  tint  of  the  Mexican,  gambolled  before 


88        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

the  door.  The  Mexicans  and  Indians  at  work 
in  the  yard  were  stout,  well-fed  fellows,  looking 
happy  and  contented;  as  well  they  might,  for 
no  one  in  the  country  paid  so  well,  and  fed  so 
well,  as  Turley,  who  bore  the  reputation,  far 
and  near,  of  being  as  generous  and  kind- 
hearted  as  he  was  reported  to  be  rich.  In  times 
of  scarcity  no  Mexican  ever  besought  his  as- 
sistance and  went  away  empty-handed.  His 
granaries  were  always  open  to  the  hungry,  and 
his  purse  to  the  poor. 

Three  days  after  I  was  there  they  attacked 
his  house,  burned  his  mill,  destroyed  his  grain 
and  his  live  stock,  and  inhumanly  butchered 
himself  and  the  foreigners  with  him,  after  a 
gallant  defence  of  twenty-four  hours — nine 
men  against  five  hundred.  Such  is  Mexican 
gratitude. 

I  here  laid  in  a  small  supply  of  provisions, 
flour  and  dried  buffalo-meat,  and  got  besides  a 
good  breakfast — rather  a  memorable  occurrence. 
Just  as  I  arrived,  a  party  of  Mormons,  who  had 
left  Colonel  Cooke's  command  on  their  way  to 
California,  and  were  now  about  to  cross  the 
mountains  to  join  a  large  body  of  their  people 
who  were  wintering  on  the  Arkansa,  intending 
to  proceed  to  California  in  the  ensuing  spring, 
were  on  the  point  of  starting.  There  were  some 
twelve  or  fifteen  of  them,  raw-boned  fanatics, 
with  four  or  five  pack-mules  carrying  their 


MEXICAN  GRATITUDE  89 

provisions,  themselves  on  foot."  They  started 
several  hours  before  me;  but  I  overtook  them 
before  they  crossed  the  mountain,  straggling 
along,  some  seated  on  the  top  of  the  mules' 
packs,  some  sitting  down  every  few  hundred 
yards,  and  all  looking  tired  and  miserable.  One 
of  the  party  was  an  Englishman,  from  Bidden- 
den,  in  Kent,  and  an  old  Peninsular  soldier.  I 
asked  what  could  have  induced  him  to  have 
undertaken  such  an  expedition.  He  looked  at 
me,  and,  without  answering  the  question,  said, 
"Dang  it,  if  I  only  once  get  hoam!" 

Arroyo  Hondo  runs  along  the  base  of  a  ridge 
of  mountain  of  moderate  elevation,  which 
divides  the  valley  of  Taos  from  that  of  Rio 
Colorado,  or  Red  River,  both  running  into  the 
Del  Norte.  The  trail  from  one  to  the  other 
runs  through  and  over  the  mountain,  a  distance 
of  about  twelve  miles.  It  is  covered  with  pine 
and  cedar  and  a  species  of  dwarf  oak;  and 
numerous  small  streamlets  run  through  the 
canons  and  gorges.  Near  these  grows  plenti- 
fully a  shrub  which  produces  a  fruit  called  by 
the  mountaineers  service-berry,  of  a  dark  blue, 
the  size  of  a  small  grape,  and  of  very  pleasant 
flavor. 

My  animals,  unused  to  mountain  travelling, 
proceeded  very  slowly.  Every  little  stream  of 
frozen  water  was  the  cause  of  delay.  The  mules, 
on  reaching  the  brink,  always  held  a  council  of 


90        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

war,  smelt  and  tried  it  with  their  fore  feet,  and 
bellowed  forth  their  dislike  of  the  slippery 
bridge.  Coronela,  my  hunting-mule,  since  her 
mishap  at  Fernandez,  was  always  the  first  to 
cross,  but  I  had  first  to  strew  the  ice  with 
branches,  or  throw  a  blanket  over  it,  before  I 
could  induce  them  to  pass;  and  at  last,  tired  of 
the  delays  thus  occasioned,  I  passed  with  the 
horse,  and  left  the  mules  to  use  their  own  dis- 
cretion, although  not  unfrequently  half  an 
hour  or  more  would  elapse  before  they  overtook 
me. 

All  this  day  I  marched  on  foot  through  the 
snow,  as  Panchito  made  sad  work  of  ascending 
and  descending  the  mountain,  and  it  was 
several  hours  after  sunset  when  I  arrived  at  Rio 
Colorado,  with  one  of  my  feet  badly  frozen. 
In  the  settlement,  which  boasted  about  twenty 
houses,  on  inquiry  as  to  where  I  could  procure  a 
corral  and  hoja  for  the  animals,  I  was  directed 
to  the  house  of  a  French  Canadian — an  old 
trapper  named  Laforey — one  of  the  many  who 
are  found  in  these  remote  settlements,  with 
Mexican  wives,  and  passing  the  close  of  their 
adventurous  lives  in  what  to  them  is  a  state  of 
ease  and  plenty;  that  is,  they  grow  sufficient 
maize  to  support  them,  their  faithful  and  well- 
tried  rifles  furnishing  them  with  meat  in 
abundance,  to  be  had  in  all  the  mountains  for 
the  labor  of  hunting. 


MEXICAN  GRATITUDE  91 

I  was  obliged  to  remain  here  two  days,  for 
my  foot  was  so  badly  frozen  that  I  was  quite 
unable  to  put  it  to  the  ground.  In  this  place 
I  found  that  the  Americans  were  in  bad  odor; 
and  as  I  was  equipped  as  a  mountaineer,  I  came 
in  for  a  tolerable  share  of  abuse  whenever  I 
limped  through  the  village.  As  my  lameness 
prevented  me  from  pursuing  my  tormentors, 
they  were  unusually  daring,  saluting  me,  every 
time  I  passed  to  the  shed  where  my  animals 
were  corralled,  with  cries  of  "Burro,  burro,  ven 
a  comer  hoja — Jackass,  jackass,  come  here  and 
eat  shucks,"  "Anda  coxo,  a  ver  los  burros,  sus 
hermanos — Hallo,  game-leg,  go  and  see  your 
brothers,  the  donkeys;"  and  at  last,  words  not 
being  found  heavy  enough,  pieces  of  adobe 
rattled  at  my  ears.  This,  however,  was  a  joke 
rather  too  practical  to  be  pleasant;  so,  the  next 
time  I  limped  to  the  stable,  I  carried  my  rifle 
on  my  shoulder,  which  was  a  hint  never  to  be 
mistaken  by  a  Mexican,  and  hereafter  I  passed 
with  impunity.  However,  I  was  obliged  to 
watch  my  animals  day  and  night,  for,  as  soon 
as  I  fed  them,  either  the  corn  was  bodily  stolen, 
or  a  herd  of  hogs  was  driven  in  to  feed  at  my 
expense.  The  latter  aggression  I  put  a  stop  to 
by  administering  to  one  persevering  porker  a 
pill  from  my  rifle,  and  promised  the  threatening 
crowd  that  I  would  have  as  little  compunction 
in  letting  the  same  amount  of  daylight  into 


92        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

them  if  I  caught  them  thieving  the  provender; 
and  they  seemed  to  think  me  in  earnest,  for  I 
missed  no  more  corn  or  shucks.  I  saw  plainly 
enough,  however,  that  my  remaining  here,  with 
such  a  perfectly  lawless  and  ruffianly  crew,  was 
likely  to  lead  me  into  some  trouble,  if,  indeed, 
my  life  was  not  in  absolute  danger,  which,  from 
what  occurred  shortly  after,  I  have  now  no 
doubt  it  was;  and  therefore  I  only  waited  until 
my  foot  was  sufficiently  recovered  to  enable  me 
to  resume  my  journey  across  the  mountains. 

The  fare  in  Laforey's  house  was  what  might 
be  expected  in  a  hunter's  establishment :  venison, 
antelope,  and  the  meat  of  the  carnero  cimarron — 
the  Rocky  Mountain  sheep — furnished  his 
larder;  and  such  meat  (poor  and  tough  at  this 
season  of  the  year),  with  cakes  of  Indian  meal, 
either  tortillas  or  gorditas,*  furnished  the  daily 
bill  of  fare.  The  absence  of  coffee  he  made  the 
theme  of  regret  at  every  meal,  bewailing  his 
misfortune  in  not  having  at  that  particular 
moment  a  supply  of  this  article,  which  he  never 
before  was  without,  and  which  I  may  here 
observe,  amongst  the  hunters  and  trappers, 
when  in  camp  or  rendevous,  is  considered  as  an 
indispensable  necessary.  Coffee,  being  very 
cheap  in  the  States,  is  the  universal  beverage 
of  the  western  people,  and  finds  its  way  to  the 

*  The  tortilla  is  a  round  flat  pancake,  made  of  the  Indian  corn- 
meal;  the  gordita  is  of  the  same  material,  but  thicker. 


MEXICAN  GRATITUDE  93 

mountains  in  the  packs  of  the  Indian  traders, 
who  retail  it  to  the  mountain-men  at  the 
moderate  price  of  from  two  to  six  dollars  the 
half -pint  cup.  However,  my  friend  Laforey  was 
never  known  to  possess  any,  and  his  lamenta- 
tions were  only  intended  to  soften  my  heart,  as 
he  thought  (erroneously)  that  I  must  certainly 
carry  a  supply  with  me. 

"Sacre  enfant  de  Garce,"  he  would  exclaim, 
mixing  English,  French,  and  Spanish  into  a 
puchero-like  jumble,  "voyez-vous  dat  I  vas 
nevare  tan  pauvre  as  dis  time;  mais  before  I  vas 
siempre  avec  plenty  cafe,  plenty  sucre;  mais 
now,  God  dam,  I  not  go  a  Santa  Fe,  God  dam, 
and  mountain-men  dey  come  aqui  from  autre 
cote,  drink  all  my  cafe.  Sacre  enfant  de 
Garce,  nevare  I  vas  tan  pauvre  as  dis  time, 
God  dam.  I  not  care  comer  meat,  ni  frijole, 
ni  corn,  mais  widout  cafe  I  no  live.  I  hunt  may 
be  two,  three  day,  may  be  one  week,  mais  I 
eat  notin';  mais  sin  cafe,  enfant  de  Garce,  I  no 
live,  parceque  me  not  sacre  Espagnol,  mais  one 
Frenchman." 

Rio  Colorado  is  the  last  and  most  northern 
settlement  of  Mexico,  and  is  distant  from  Vera 
Cruz  2000  miles.  It  contains  perhaps  fifteen 
families,  or  a  population  of  fifty  souls,  including 
one  or  two  Yuta  Indians,  by  sufferance  of  whom 
the  New  Mexicans  have  settled  this  valley,  thus 
ensuring  to  the  politic  savages  a  supply  of 


94        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

corn  or  cattle  without  the  necessity  of  under- 
taking a  raid  on  Taos  or  Santa  Fe  whenever  they 
require  a  remount.  This  was  the  reason  given 
me  by  a  Yuta  for  allowing  the  encroachment  on 
their  territory. 

The  soil  of  the  valley  is  fertile,  the  little  strip 
of  land  which  comprises  it  yielding  grain  in 
abundance,  and  being  easily  irrigated  from  the 
stream,  the  banks  of  which  are  low.  The  plain 
abounds  with  alegria,  the  plant  from  which  the 
juice  is  extracted  with  which  the  belles  of 
Nuevo  Mejico  cosmetically  preserve  their  com- 
plexions. The  neighboring  mountains  afford 
plenty  of  large  game — deer,  bears,  mountain- 
sheep,  and  elk;  and  the  plains  are  covered  with 
countless  herds  of  antelope,  which,  in  the 
winter,  hang  about  the  foot  of  the  sierras,  which 
shield  them  from  the  icy  winds. 

No  state  of  society  can  be  more  wretched  or 
degrading  than  the  social  and  moral  condition 
of  the  inhabitants  of  New  Mexico:  but  in  this 
remote  settlement,  anything  I  had  formerly 
imagined  to  be  the  ne  plus  ultra  of  misery,  fell 
far  short  of  the  reality: — such  is  the  degradation 
of  the  people  of  the  Rio  Colorado.  Growing  a 
bare  sufficiency  for  their  own  support,  they 
hold  the  little  land  they  cultivate,  and  their 
wretched  hovels,  on  sufferance  from  the  barbar- 
ous Yutas,  who  actually  tolerate  their  presence 
in  their  country  for  the  sole  purpose  of  having 


MEXICAN  GRATITUDE  95 

at  their  command  a  stock  of  grain  and  a  herd 
of  mules  and  horses,  which  they  make  no  scruple 
of  helping  themselves  to,  whenever  they  re- 
quire a  remount  or  a  supply  of  farinaceous  food. 
Moreover,  when  a  war  expedition  against  a 
hostile  tribe  has  failed,  and  no  scalps  have  been 
secured  to  ensure  the  returning  warriors  a 
welcome  to  their  village,  the  Rio  Colorado  is  a 
kind  of  game-preserve,  where  the  Yutas  have 
a  certainty  of  filling  their  bag  if  their  other 
covers  draw  blank.  Here  they  can  always 
depend  upon  procuring  a  few  brace  of  Mexican 
scalps,  when  such  trophies  are  required  for  a 
war-dance  or  other  festivity,  without  danger 
to  themselves,  and  merely  for  the  trouble  of 
fetching  them. 

Thus,  half  the  year,  the  settlers  fear  to  leave 
their  houses,  and  their  corn  and  grain  often 
remain  uncut,  the  Indians  being  near:  thus  the 
valiant  Mexicans  refuse  to  leave  the  shelter  of 
their  burrows  even  to  secure  their  only  food. 
At  these  times  their  sufferings  are  extreme,  they 
being  reduced  to  the  verge  of  starvation;  and 
the  old  Canadian  hunter  told  me  that  he 
and  his  son  entirely  supported  the  people  on 
several  occasions  by  the  produce  of  their  rifles, 
while  the  maize  was  lying  rotting  in  the  fields. 
There  are  sufficient  men  in  the  settlement  to 
exterminate  the  Yutas,  were  they  not  entirely 
devoid  of  courage;  but,  as  it  is,  they  allow 


96        WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

themselves  to  be  bullied  and  ill-treated  with  the 
most  perfect  impunity. 

Against  these  same  Indians  a  party  of  a  dozen 
Shawnee  and  Delaware  trappers  waged  a  long 
and  most  destructive  war,  until  at  last  the  Yutas 
were  fain  to  beg  for  peace,  after  losing  many 
of  their  most  famous  warriors  and  chiefs.  The 
cowardly  Mexicans,  however,  have  seldom 
summoned  courage  to  strike  a  blow  in  their 
own  defence,  and  their  savage  enemies  so 
thoroughly  despise  them  that  they  never 
scruple  to  attack  them,  however  large  the  party, 
or  in  spite  of  the  greatest  disparity  in  numbers 
between  them. 

On  the  third  day,  the  inflammation  in  my 
frost-bitten  foot  having  in  some  measure  sub- 
sided, I  again  packed  my  mules,  and,  under  a 
fusillade  of  very  hard  names  from  the  pelados, 
turned  my  back  on  Mexico  and  the  Mexicans. 

Laforey  escorted  me  out  of  the  settlement  to 
point  out  the  trail  (for  roads  now  had  long 
ceased),  and  bewailing  his  hard  fate  in  not 
having  "plenty  cafe,  avec  sucre,  God  dam," 
with  a  concluding  enfant  de  Garce,  he  bid  me 
good  bye,  and  recommended  me  to  mind  my 
hair — in  other  words,  look  out  for  my  scalp. 
Cresting  a  bluff  which  rose  from  the  valley,  I 
turned  in  my  saddle,  took  a  last  look  of  the 
adobes,  and,  without  one  regret,  cried  "Adios, 
Mejico!" 


MEXICAN  GRATITUDE  97 

I  had  now  turned  my  back  on  the  last  settle- 
ment, and  felt  a  thrill  of  pleasure  as  I  looked  at 
the  wild  expanse  of  snow  which  lay  before  me, 
and  the  towering  mountains  which  frowned  on 
all  sides,  and  knew  that  now  I  had  seen  the  last 
(for  some  time  at  least)  of  civilized  man  under 
the  garb  of  a  Mexican  sarape. 


CHAPTER  VI 

INTO  THE  MOUNTAINS 

OUR  course  on  leaving  Red  River  was  due 
north,  my  object  being  to  strike  the 
Arkansa  near  its  head-waters  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  follow 
as  near  as  possible  the  Yuta  trail,  which  these 
Indians  use  in  passing  from  the  Del  Norte  to 
the  Bayou  Salado,*  on  their  annual  buffalo- 
hunts  to  that  elevated  valley. 

Skirting  a  low  range  of  mountains,  the  trail 
passes  a  valley  upwards  of  fifty  miles  in  length, 
intersected  by  numerous  streams  (called  creeks 
by  the  mountain-men),  which  rise  in  the  neigh- 
boring highlands,  and  fall  into  the  Del  Norte, 
near  its  upper  waters.  Our  first  day's  journey, 
of  about  twenty-five  miles,  led  through  the  up- 
lands at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  valley. 
These  are  covered  with  pine  and  cedar,  and  the 
more  open  plains  with  bushes  of  wild  sage,  which 
is  the  characteristic  plant  in  all  the  elevated 
plains  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  On  emerging 
from  the  uplands,  we  entered  a  level  prairie, 
covered  with  innumerable  herds  of  antelope. 

*  Now  known  as  the  South  Park,  Colorado.     (Ed.) 


INTO  THE  MOUNTAINS  99 

These  graceful  animals,  in  bands  containing 
several  thousands,  trotted  up  to  us,  and,  with 
pointed  ears  and  their  beautiful  eyes  staring 
with  eager  curiosity,  accompanied  us  for  miles, 
running  parallel  to  our  trail  within  fifty  or  sixty 
yards. 

The  cold  of  these  regions  is  more  intense  than 
I  ever  remember  to  have  experienced,  not 
excepting  even  in  Lower  Canada;  and  when  a 
northerly  wind  sweeps  over  the  bleak  and 
barren  plains,  charged  as  it  is  with  its  icy  rein- 
forcements from  the  snow-clad  mountains,  it 
assails  the  unfortunate  traveller,  exposed  to  all 
its  violence,  with  blood-freezing  blasts,  piercing 
to  his  very  heart  and  bones. 

Such  was  the  state  of  congelation  I  was  in,  on 
this  day,  that  even  the  shot-tempting  antelope 
bounded  past  unscathed.  My  hands,  with 
fingers  of  stone,  refused  even  to  hold  the  reins 
of  my  horse,  who  travelled  as  he  pleased,  some- 
times slueing  round  his  stern  to  wind,  which  was 
"dead  ahead."  Mattias,  the  half-breed  who  was 
my  guide,  enveloped  from  head  to  foot  in 
blanket,  occasionally  cast  a  longing  glance  from 
out  its  folds  at  the  provoking  venison  as  it 
galloped  past,  muttering  at  intervals,  "Jesus, 
Jesus, que carne — what  meat  we're  losing!"  At 
length,  as  a  band  of  some  three  thousand  almost 
ran  over  us,  human  nature,  although  at  freezing- 
point,  could  no  longer  stand  it.  I  jumped  off 


100     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

Panchito,  and,  kneeling  down,  sent  a  ball  from 
my  rifle  right  into  the  "thick"  of  the  band.  At 
the  report  two  antelopes  sprang  into  the  air, 
their  forms  being  distinct  against  the  horizon 
above  the  backs  of  the  rest;  and  when  the  herd 
had  passed,  they  were  lying  kicking  in  the  dust, 
one  shot  in  the  neck,  through  which  the  ball 
had  passed  into  the  body  of  another. 

We  packed  a  mule  with  the  choice  pieces 
of  the  meat,  which  was  a  great  addition  to  our 
slender  stock  of  dried  provisions.  As  I  was 
butchering  the  antelope,  half  a  dozen  wolves 
hung  round  the  spot,  attracted  by  the  smell  of 
blood;  they  were  so  tame,  and  hungry  at  the 
same  time,  that  I  thought  they  would  actually 
have  torn  the  meat  from  under  my  knife.  Two 
of  them  loped  round  and  round,  gradually 
decreasing  their  distance,  occasionally  squatting 
on  their  haunches,  and  licking  their  impatient 
lips,  in  anxious  expectation  of  a  coming  feast. 
I  threw  a  large  piece  of  meat  towards  them, 
when  the  whole  gang  jumped  upon  it,  fighting 
and  growling,  and  tearing  each  other  in  the 
furious  melee.  I  am  sure  I  might  have  ap- 
proached near  enough  to  have  seized  one  by  the 
tail,  so  entirely  regardless  of  my  vicinity  did 
they  appear.  They  were  doubtless  rendered 
more  ravenous  than  usual  by  the  uncommon 
severity  of  the  weather,  and,  from  the  fact  of 
the  antelope  congregating  in  large  bands,  were 


INTO  THE  MOUNTAINS  101 

unable  to  prey  upon  these  animals,  which  are 
their  favorite  food.  Although  rarely  attacking 
a  man,  yet  in  such  seasons  as  the  present  I  have 
no  doubt  that  they  would  not  hesitate  to  charge 
upon  a  solitary  traveller  in  the  night,  particularly 
as  in  winter  they  congregate  in  troops  of  from 
ten  to  fifty.  They  are  so  abundant  in  the  moun- 
tains, that  the  hunter  takes  no  notice  of  them, 
and  seldom  throws  away  upon  the  skulking 
beasts  a  charge  of  powder  and  lead. 

This  night  we  camped  on  Rib  Creek,  the 
Costilla  of  the  New-Mexican  hunters,  where 
there  was  no  grass  for  our  poor  animals,  and  the 
creek  was  frozen  to  such  a  depth,  that,  after  the 
greatest  exertions  in  breaking  a  hole  through  the 
ice,  which  was  nearly  a  foot  thick,  they  were 
unable  to  reach  the  water. 

It  is  a  singular  fact  that  during  intense  cold 
horses  and  mules  suffer  more  from  want  of 
water  than  in  the  hottest  weather,  and  often 
perish  in  the  mountains  when  unable  to  procure 
it  for  two  or  three  days  in  the  frozen  creeks. 
Although  they  made  every  attempt  to  drink, 
the  mules  actually  kneeling  in  their  endeavors 
to  reach  the  water,  I  was  obliged  to  give  it 
them,  one  after  the  other,  from  a  small  tin  cup 
which  held  half  a  pint,  and  from  which  the 
thirsty  animals  greedily  drank. 

This  tedious  process  occupied  me  more  than 
an  hour,  after  which  there  was  another  hour's 


102     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

work  in  hunting  for  wood,  and  packing  it  on  our 
backs  into  camp.  Before  we  had  a  fire  going  it 
was  late  in  the  night,  and  almost  midnight  before 
we  had  found  a  little  grass  and  picketed  the 
animals;  all  of  which  duties  at  last  being 
effected,  we  cooked  our  collops  of  antelope- 
meat,  smoked  a  pipe,  and  rolled  ourselves  in 
our  blankets  before  the  fire.  All  night  long  the 
camp  was  surrounded  by  wolves,  which  ap- 
proached within  a  few  feet  of  the  fire,  and  their 
eyes  shone  like  coals  as  they  hovered  in  the 
bushes,  attracted  by  the  savory  smell  of  the 
roasting  venison. 

The  next  day  we  struck  La  Culebra,  or  Snake 
Creek,  where  we  saw  that  the  party  of  Mormons 
had  encamped,  and  apparently  halted  a  day,  for 
more  than  ordinary  pains  had  been  taken  to 
make  their  camp  comfortable,  and  several  piles 
of  twigs,  of  the  sage-bush  and  rushes,  remained, 
of  which  they  had  made  beds.  However,  we 
were  obliged  to  go  farther  down  the  creek,  as 
there  was  no  firewood  near  the  point  where  the 
trail  crosses  it,  and  there  found  a  sheltered  place 
with  tolerable  grass,  and  near  an  air-hole  in  the 
ice  where  the  animals  could  drink.  I  remarked 
that  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Mormon  camp  no 
watering-place  had  been  made  for  their  animals, 
and,  as  we  had  seen  no  holes  broken  in  the  ice 
of  the  creeks  we  had  passed,  I  concluded  that 
these  people  had  allowed  their  animals  to  shift 


INTO  THE  MOUNTAINS  103 

for  themselves,  the  consequences  of  which 
negligence  were  soon  apparent  in  our  farther 
advance. 

The  cold  was  so  intense  that  I  blanketed  all 
my  animals,  and  even  then  expected  that  some 
of  the  mules  would  have  perished;  for  it  snowed 
heavily  during  the  night,  and  the  storm  ended 
in  a  watery  sleet,  which  froze  as  soon  as  it  fell, 
and  in  the  morning  the  animals  were  covered 
with  a  sheet  of  ice.  We  ourselves  suffered 
extremely,  turning  constantly,  and  rolling  almost 
into  the  embers  of  the  scanty  fire;  and  towards 
daybreak  I  really  thought  I  should  have  frozen 
bodily.  My  bedding  consisted  of  two  blankets 
— one  of  them  a  very  thin  one,  which  was  all  I 
had  between  my  body  and  the  snow;  and  the 
other,  first  soaked  with  the  sleet  and  afterwards 
frozen  stiff  and  hard,  was  more  like  a  board 
than  a  blanket,  and  was  in  that  state  no  pro- 
tection against  the  cold.  It  is  well  known  that 
the  coldest  period  of  the  twenty-four  hours  is 
that  immediately  preceding  the  dawn  of  day. 
At  this  time  one  is  generally  awakened  by  the 
sensation  of  death-like  chill,  which  penetrates 
into  the  very  bones;  and  as  the  fire  is  by  this 
time  usually  extinguished,  or  merely  smoulder- 
ing in  the  ashes,  the  duty  of  replenishing  is  a 
very  trying  process.  To  creep  out  of  the  blanket 
and  face  the  cutting  blast  requires  no  little 
resolution;  and,  if  there  be  more  than  one 


104     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

person  in  the  camp,  the  horrible  moment  is  put  off 
by  the  first  roused,  in  hopes  that  some  one  else  will 
awaken  and  perform  the  duty.  However,  should 
the  coughs  and  hems  succeed  in  rousing  all,  it 
is  ten  to  one  but  that  all,  with  a  blank  look  at 
the  cheerless  prospect,  cover  their  heads  with 
the  blanket,  and  with  a  groan,  cuddling  into 
a  ball,  resettle  themselves  to  sleep,  leaving 
the  most  chilly  victim  to  perform  the  office. 

The  half -frozen  animals,  standing  over  their 
picket-pins  and  collapsed  with  cold,  seem  almost 
drawn  within  themselves,  and  occasionally 
approach  the  fire  as  close  as  their  lariats  will 
allow,  bending  down  their  noses  to  the  feeble 
warmth,  the  breath  in  steaming  volumes  of 
cloud  issuing  from  their  nostrils,  whilst  their 
bodies  are  thickly  clad  with  a  coat  of  frozen 
snow  or  sleet. 

Our  next  camp  was  on  La  Trinchera,  or  Bowl 
Creek.  The  country  was  barren  and  desolate, 
covered  with  sage,  and  with  here  and  there  a 
prairie  with  tolerable  pasture.  Antelope  were 
abundant,  and  deer  and  turkeys  were  to  be 
seen  on  the  creeks.  The  trail  passed,  to  the 
westward,  a  lofty  peak,  resembling  in  outline 
that  one  known  as  James's  or  Pike's  Peak,  which 
is  some  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  to  the  north. 
The  former  is  not  laid  down  in  any  of  the  maps, 
although  it  is  a  well-known  landmark  to  the 
Indians. 


INTO  THE  MOUNTAINS  105 

The  creeks  are  timbered  with  cottonwoods, 
quaking-asp,  dwarf -oak,  cedar,  and  wild  cherry, 
all  of  small  growth  and  stunted,  while  the  up- 
lands are  covered  with  a  dwarfish  growth  of 
pines.  From  Rio  Colorado  we  had  been  con- 
stantly followed  by  a  large  grey  wolf.  Every 
evening,  as  soon  as  we  got  into  camp,  he  made 
his  appearance,  squatting  quietly  down  at  a 
little  distance,  and  after  we  had  turned  in  for 
the  night  helping  himself  to  anything  lying 
about.  Our  first  acquaintance  commenced  on 
the  prairie  where  I  had  killed  the  two  antelope, 
and  the  excellent  dinner  he  then  made,  on  the 
remains  of  the  two  carcases,  had  evidently 
attached  him  to  our  society.  In  the  morning,  as 
soon  as  we  left  the  camp,  he  took  possession,  and 
quickly  ate  up  the  remnants  of  our  supper  and 
some  little  extras  I  always  took  care  to  leave  for 
him.  Shortly  after  he  would  trot  after  us,  and, 
if  we  halted  for  a  short  time  to  adjust  the  mule- 
packs  or  water  the  animals,  he  sat  down 
quietly  until  we  resumed  our  march.  But  when 
I  killed  an  antelope,  and  was  in  the  act  of 
butchering  it,  he  gravely  looked  on,  or  loped 
round  and  round,  licking  his  jaws,  and  in  a  state 
of  evident  self-gratulation.  I  had  him  twenty 
times  a  day  within  reach  of  my  rifle,  but  he 
became  such  an  old  friend  that  I  never  dreamed 
of  molesting  him. 

Our  day's  travel  was  usually  from  twenty  to 


106     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

thirty  miles,  for  the  days  were  very  short,  and 
we  were  obliged  to  be  in  camp  an  hour  before 
sunset,  in  order  to  procure  wood,  and  water 
the  animals  before  dark.  Before  arriving  at 
the  creek  where  we  purposed  to  camp,  I  rode 
ahead,  and  selected  a  spot  where  was  good  grass 
and  convenient  water.  We  then  unpacked  the 
mules  and  horses,  and  immediately  watered 
them,  after  which  we  allowed  them  to  feed  at 
large  until  dark.  In  the  mean  time  we  hunted 
for  fire-wood,  having  sometimes  to  go  half  a 
mile  from  camp,  packing  it  on  our  shoulders  to 
the  spot  we  intended  for  our  fire,  the  mule- 
packs  and  saddles,  &c.,  being  placed  to  wind- 
ward of  it  as  a  protection  from  the  cold  blasts. 
We  then  cooked  supper,  and  at  dark  picketed 
the  animals  round  the  camp,  their  lariats  (or 
skin-ropes)  being  attached  to  pegs  driven  in  the 
ground.  After  a  smoke,  we  spread  our  blankets 
before  the  fire  and  turned  in,  rising  once  or 
twice  in  the  night  to  see  that  all  was  safe,  and 
remove  the  animals  to  fresh  grass  when  they 
had  cleared  the  circle  round  their  pickets. 
Guard  or  watch  we  kept  none,  for  after  a  long 
day's  travel  it  was  too  much  for  two  of  us  to 
take  alternate  sentry,  thus  having  but  half  the 
night  for  sleep. 

We  were  now  approaching  a  part  of  the 
journey  much  dreaded  by  the  Indians  and  New- 
Mexican  buffalo-hunters,  and  which  is  quite 


INTO  THE  MOUNTAINS  107 

another  "Jornada  del  Muerto,"  or  dead  man's 
journey.  A  creek  called  Sangre  Cristo — blood 
of  Christ — winds  through  a  deep  canon,  which 
opens  out  at  one  point  into  a  small  circular 
basin  called  El  Vallecito — the  little  valley.  It 
is  quite  embosomed  in  the  mountains;  and 
down  their  rugged  sides,  and  through  the  deep 
gorges,  the  wind  rushes  with  tremendous  fury, 
filling  the  valley  with  drifted  snow,  and  de- 
positing it  in  the  numerous  hollows  with  which 
it  is  intersected.  This  renders  the  passage  of 
the  Vallecito  exceedingly  difficult  and  danger- 
ous, as  animals  are  frequently  buried  in  the 
snow,  which  is  sometimes  fifteen  r  or  twenty 
feet  deep  in  the  hollows,  and  f our  or  five^pn  the 
level. '' 

This  valley  is  also  called  by^  the  mountaineers 
the  "Wind-trap;"  a  very  appropriate  name,  as 
the  wind  seems  to  be  caught  and  pent  up  here 
the  year  round,  and,  mad  with  the  confinement, 
blows  round  and  round,  seeking  for  an  escape. 

Wishing  to  have  my  animals  fresh  for  the 
passage  of  this  dreaded  spot,  I  this  day  made  a 
short  journey  of  fifteen  miles,  and  camped  in  the 
canon  about  three  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Wind-trap.  The  canon  was  so  precipitous  that 
the  only  place  I  could  find  for  our  camp  was  on 
the  side  of  the  mountain,  where  was  tolerably 
good  gramma-grass,  but  a  wretched  place  for 
ourselves;  and  we  had  to  burrow  out  a  level 


108     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

spot  in  the  snow  before  we  could  place  the  packs 
in  a  position  where  they  would  not  roll  down  the 
hill.  The  cedars  were  few  and  far  between,  and 
the  snow  covered  everything  in  the  shape  of 
wood;  and  as  in  our  last  camp  my  tomahawk 
had  been  lost  in  the  snow,  I  was  unable  to 
procure  a  log,  and  was  fain  to  set  fire  to  a  cedar 
near  which  we  had  laid  our  packs.  The  flame, 
licking  the  stringy  and  dry  bark,  quickly  ran  up 
the  tree,  blazed  along  the  branches  in  a  roar 
of  fire,  illuminating  the  rugged  mountain,  and 
throwing  its  light  upon  the  thread  of  timber 
skirting  the  creek  which  wound  along  the  bot- 
tom far  beneath. 

All  night  long  the  wind  roared  through  the 
canon,  and  at  times  swept  the  blankets  from 
our  chilled  bodies  with  the  force  of  a  giant. 
The  mules  and  horses  after  dark  refused  to  feed, 
and,  as  there  was  no  spot  near  where  we  could 
picket  them,  the  poor  beasts  sought  shelter 
from  the  cruel  blasts  in  the  belt  of  dwarf  oak 
which  fringed  the  creek. 

We  passed  a  miserable  night,  perched  upon 
the  mountain-side  in  our  lonely  camp,  and  with- 
out a  fire,  for  the  tree  was  soon  consumed.  Our 
old  friend  the  wolf,  however,  was  still  a  com- 
panion, and  sat  all  night  within  sight  of  the 
fire,  howling  piteously  from  cold  and  hunger. 
The  next  morning  I  allowed  the  animals  a 
couple  of  hours  after  sunrise  to  feed  and  fill 


INTO  THE  MOUNTAINS  109 

themselves;  and  then,  descending  from  our 
camp,  we  entered  at  once  the  pass  into  the 
dreaded  Vallecito.  A  few  hundred  yards  from 
the  entrance  lay  a  frozen  mule,  half-buried  in 
the  snow;  and  a  little  farther  on  another,  close 
to  the  creek  where  the  Mormons  had  evidently 
encamped  not  two  days  before. 

The  Vallecito  was  covered  with  snow  to  the 
depth  of  three  feet,  to  all  appearance  perfectly 
level,  but  in  fact  full  of  hollows,  with  fifteen  or 
twenty  feet  of  snow  in  them.  With  the 
greatest  difficulty  and  labor  we  succeeded  in 
crossing,  having  to  dismount  and  beat  a  path 
through  the  drifts  with  our  bodies.  The 
pack-mules  were  continually  falling,  and  were 
always  obliged  to  be  unpacked  before  they 
could  rise.  As  this  happened  every  score 
yards,  more  than  half  the  day  was  consumed  in 
traversing  the  valley,  which  cannot  exceed  four 
miles  in  length. 

The  mountain  rises  directly  from  the  north 
end  of  the  Vallecito,  and  is  the  dividing  ridge 
between  the  waters  of  the  Del  Norte  and  the 
Arkansa  or  Rio  Napeste  of  the  Mexicans.  The 
ascent  to  the  summit,  from  the  western  side, 
is  short,  but  very  steep;  and  the  snow  was  of 
such  a  depth  that  the  mules  could  hardly  make 
their  way  to  the  top.  Leading  my  horse  by 
the  bridle,  I  led  the  way,  and  at  length,  numbed 
with  cold,  I  reached  the  summit,  where  is  a 


110     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

level  plateau  of  about  a  hundred  square  yards. 
Attaining  this,  and  exposed  to  the  full  sweep 
of  the  wind,  a  blast  struck  me,  carrying  with  it 
a  perfect  avalanche  of  snow  and  sleet,  full  in  my 
front,  and  knocked  me  as  clean  off  my  legs  as  I 
could  have  been  floored  by  a  twenty-four  pound 
shot. 

The  view  from  this  point  was  wild  and  dismal 
in  the  extreme.  Looking  back,  the  whole 
country  was  covered  with  a  thick  carpet  of  snow, 
but  eastward  it  was  seen  in  patches  only  here 
and  there.  Before  me  lay  the  main  chain  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  Pike's  Peak  lifting  its 
snowy  head  far  above  the  rest;  and  to  the  south- 
east the  Spanish  Peaks  (Cumbres  Espanolas) 
towered  like  twin  giants  over  the  plains.  Be- 
neath the  mountain  on  which  I  stood  was  a 
narrow  valley,  through  which  ran  a  streamlet 
bordered  with  dwarf  oak  and  pine,  and  looking 
like  a  thread  of  silver  as  it  wound  through  the 
plain.  Rugged  peaks  and  ridges,  snow-clad  and 
covered  with  pine,  and  deep  gorges  filled  with 
broken  rocks,  everywhere  met  the  eye.  To  the 
eastward  the  mountains  gradually  smoothed 
away  into  detached  spurs  and  broken  ground, 
until  they  met  the  vast  prairies,  which  stretched 
far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and  hundreds  of 
miles  beyond — a  sea  of  seeming  barrenness,  vast 
and  dismal.  A  hurricane  of  wind  was  blowing 
at  the  time,  and  clouds  of  dust  swept  along  the 


INTO  THE  MOUNTAINS  111 

sandy  prairies,  like  the  smoke  of  a  million 
bonfires.  On  the  mountain-top  it  roared  and 
raved  through  the  pines,  filling  the  air  with 
snow  and  broken  branches,  and  piling  it  in 
huge  drifts  against  the  trees. 

The  perfect  solitude  of  this  vast  wildness  was 
almost  appalling.  From  my  position  on  the 
summit  of  the  dividing  ridge  I  had  a  bird's-eye 
view,  as  it  were,  over  the  rugged  and  chaotic 
masses  of  the  stupendous  chain  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  the  vast  deserts  which  stretched 
away  from  their  eastern  bases;  while,  on  all 
sides  of  me,  broken  ridges,  and  chasms  and 
ravines,  with  masses  of  piled-up  rocks  and  up- 
rooted trees,  with  clouds  of  drifting  snow  flying 
through  the  air,  and  the  hurricane's  roar  bat- 
tling through  the  forest  at  my  feet,  added  to  the 
wildness  of  the  scene,  which  was  unrelieved  by 
the  slightest  vestige  of  animal  or  human  life. 
Not  a  sound  either  of  bird  or  beast  was  heard — 
indeed,  the  hoarse  and  stunning  rattle  of  the 
wind  would  have  drowned  them,  so  loud  it 
roared  and  raved  through  the  trees. 

The  animals  strove  in  vain  to  face  the  storm, 
and,  turning  their  sterns  to  the  wind,  shrank 
into  themselves,  trembling  with  cold.  Panchito, 
whom  I  was  leading  by  the  bridle,  followed  me 
to  the  edge  of  the  plateau,  but  drew  back, 
trembling,  from  the  dismal  scene  which  lay 
stretched  below.  With  a  neigh  of  fear  he  laid 


112     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

his  cold  nose  against  my  cheek,  seeming  to  say, 
"Come  back,  master:  what  can  take  you  to  such 
a  wretched  place  as  that,  where  not  even  a 
blade  of  grass  meets  the  eye?" 

The  descent  on  the  eastern  side  is  steep  and 
sudden,  and  through  a  thick  forest  of  pines,  to 
the  valley  beneath.  Trail  there  was  none  to 
direct  us,  and  my  half-breed  knew  nothing  of 
the  road,  having  passed  but  once  before,  and 
many  years  ago,  but  said  it  went  somewhere 
down  the  pines.  The  evening  was  fast  closing 
round  us,  and  to  remain  where  we  were  was 
certain  death  to  our  animals,  if  not  to  ourselves : 
I  therefore  determined  to  push  for  the  valley, 
and  accordingly  struck  at  once  down  the  pines. 

Once  amongst  the  trees  there  was  nothing  to 
do  but  reach  the  bottom  as  fast  as  possible,  as 
it  was  nearly  dark,  and  nothing  was  to  be  seen 
at  the  distance  of  a  dozen  yards,  so  dense  was 
the  forest.  Before  we  had  proceeded  as  many 
paces  from  the  edge  of  the  plateau,  and  almost 
before  I  knew  where  I  was,  horses,  mules,  &c., 
were  rolling  down  the  mountain  all  together,  and 
were  at  last  brought  up  in  a  snow-drift  some 
twelve  feet  deep.  There  they  all  lay  in  a  heap, 
the  half-breed  under  one  of  the  pack-mules,  and 
his  swarthy  face  just  peering  out  of  the  snow. 
Before  a  mule  would  stir  every  pack  had  to  be 
removed;  and  this,  with  a  temperature  some 
ten  degrees  below  zero,  was  trying  to  the  fingers, 


INTO  THE  MOUNTAINS  113 

as  may  be  imagined.  As  it  was  impossible  to 
reach  the  bottom  from  this  point,  we  struggled 
once  more  to  the  top  through  six  feet  of  snow 
and  an  almost  perpendicular  ascent.  I  had  to 
beat  a  road  for  the  animals,  by  throwing  myself 
bodily  on  the  snow,  and  pounding  it  down  with 
all  my  weight.  We  were  nearly  frozen  by  this 
time,  and  my  hands  were  perfectly  useless — so 
much  so  that,  when  a  large  bird  of  the  grouse 
species*  flew  up  into  a  pine  above  my  head,  I 
was  unable  to  cock  my  rifle  to  shoot  at  it.  The 
mules  were  plunging  into  the  snow  at  every 
step,  and  their  packs  were  hanging  under  their 
bellies,  but  to  attempt  to  adjust  them  was  out 
of  the  question.  It  was  nearly  dark  too,  which 
made  our  situation  anything  but  pleasant,  and 
the  mules  were  quite  exhausted. 

At  last,  however,  we  reached  the  top  and 
struck  down  the  mountain  at  another  point,  but 
it  was  with  the  greatest  toil  and  difficulty  that 
we  reached  the  bottom  long  after  dark,  and 
camped  shortly  after  near  the  creek  which 
wound  through  the  valley,  or  rather  in  its  very 
bed.  One  of  the  mules  had  slipped  its  pack 
completely  under  the  belly,  and,  the  girth  pinch- 
ing her,  she  started  off  just  before  reaching  the 
creek  at  full  gallop,  kicking  everything  the  pack 
contained  to  the  four  winds  of  heaven.  This 

*  Called  by  the  hunters  le  coq  des  bois.  It  resembles  the  Scotch 
capercailzie. 


114     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

pack  happened  to  contain  all  the  provisions,  and, 
as  the  search  for  them  in  the  dark  would  have 
been  useless,  we  this  night  had  no  supper.  To 
shelter  ourselves  from  the  wind  we  camped  in 
the  bed  of  the  creek,  which  was  without  water, 
but  the  wind  howled  down  it  as  if  it  were  a 
funnel,  scattering  our  fire  in  every  direction  as 
soon  as  it  was  lighted,  and  tearing  the  blankets 
from  our  very  bodies.  The  animals  never 
moved  from  the  spot  where  they  had  been  un- 
packed; even  if  there  had  been  grass,  they  were 
too  exhausted  to  feed,  but  stood  shivering  in  the 
wind,  collapsed  with  cold,  and  almost  dead. 
Such  a  night  I  never  passed,  and  hope  never  to 
pass  again.  The  hurricane  never  lulled  for  a 
single  instant;  all  our  efforts  to  build  a  fire 
were  unavailing;  and  it  was  with  no  small 
delight  that  I  hailed  the  break  of  day,  when  we 
immediately  packed  the  mules  and  started  on 
our  journey. 

The  trail  now  led  along  the  creek  and  through 
small  broken  prairies,  with  bluffs  exhibiting  a 
very  curious  formation  of  shale  and  sandstone. 
At  one  point  the  canon  opens  out  into  a  pretty 
open  glade  or  park,  in  the  middle  of  which  is  a 
large  rock  resembling  a  ruined  castle:  the  little 
prairie  is  covered  with  fine  grass,  and  a  large 
herd  of  black-tailed  deer  were  feeding  in  it. 
A  little  farther  on  we  descried  the  timber  on  the 
Huerfano  or  Orphan  Creek,  so  called  from  a 


INTO  THE  MOUNTAINS  115 

remarkable  isolated  rock  of  sandstone  which 
stands  in  a  small  prairie  on  its  left  bank,  and  is  a 
well-known  landmark  to  the  Indians.  We 
camped  on  the  Huerfano  under  some  high 
cottonwoods,  the  wind  blowing  with  unabated 
violence.  The  next  morning  all  the  animals 
were  missing,  and,  following  their  trail,  we  found 
them  on  the  other  side  of  the  creek,  five  or  six 
miles  from  the  camp,  in  a  little  prairie  full  of 
buffalo-grass.  As  it  was  late  in  the  day  when 
we  returned  to  camp,  we  did  not  leave  till  next 
morning,  when  we  crossed  on  to  the  Cuerna- 
verde  or  Greenhorn  Creek. 

On  a  bluff  overlooking  the  stream  I  had  the 
satisfaction  of  seeing  two  or  three  Indian  lodges 
and  one  adobe  hovel  of  a  more  aspiring  order. 
As  we  crossed  the  creek  a  mountaineer  on  an 
active  horse  galloped  up  to  us,  his  rifle  over  the 
horn  of  the  saddle,  and  clad  in  hunting-shirt 
and  pantaloons  of  deer-skin,  with  long  fringes 
hanging  down  the  arms  and  legs.  As  this  was 
the  first  soul  we  had  met  since  leaving  Red 
River,  we  were  as  delighted  to  meet  a  white  man 
(and  him  an  American)  as  he  was  to  learn  the 
news  from  the  Mexican  settlements.  We  found 
here  two  or  three  hunters,  French  Canadians, 
with  their  Assinniboin  and  Sioux  squaws,  who 
have  made  the  Greenhorn  their  head-quarters; 
and  game  being  abundant  and  the  rich  soil  of 
the  valley  affording  them  a  sufficiency  of  Indian 


116     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

corn,  they  lead  a  tolerably  easy  life,  and  certainly 
a  lazy  one,  with  no  cares  whatever  to  annoy 
them.  This  valley  will,  I  have  no  doubt,  become 
one  day  a  thriving  settlement,  the  soil  being 
exceedingly  rich  and  admirably  adapted  to  the 
growth  of  all  kinds  of  grain.  The  prairies  afford 
abundant  pasture  of  excellent  quality,  and 
stock  might  be  raised  upon  them  in  any  numbers. 

The  depreciation  in  the  value  of  beaver-skins 
has  thrown  the  great  body  of  trappers  out  of 
employment,  and  there  is  a  general  tendency 
amongst  the  mountain-men  to  settle  in  the 
fruitful  valleys  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
Already  the  plough  has  turned  up  the  soil 
within  sight  of  Pike's  Peak,  and  a  hardy  pioneer, 
an  Englishman,  has  led  the  way  to  the  Great 
Salt  Lake,  where  a  settlement  of  mountaineers 
has  even  now  been  formed,  a  thousand  miles 
from  the  frontier  of  the  United  States. 

From  the  Greenhorn  an  easy  day's  travel 
brought  us  to  the  banks  of  the  San  Carlos,  which, 
receiving  the  former  creek,  falls  into  the  Arkansa 
about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  its 
source.  The  San  Carlos  is  well  timbered  with 
cottonwood,  cherry,  quaking-asp,  box-alder, 
and  many  varieties  of  shrubs,  and  many  spots 
in  the  valley  are  admirably  adapted  for  cultiva- 
tion, with  a  rich  loamy  soil,  and  so  situated  as 
to  be  irrigated  with  great  facility  from  the  creek. 
Irrigation  is  indispensable  over  the  whole  of 


INTO  THE  MOUNTAINS  117 

this  region,  rain  seldom  falling  in  the  spring 
and  summer,  which  is  one  of  the  greatest 
drawbacks  to  the  settlement  of  this  country, 
the  labor  of  irrigation  being  very  great.  The 
San  Carlos  heads  in  a  lofty  range  of  mountains 
about  forty  miles  from  its  junction  with  the 
Arkansa.  Near  its  upper  waters  is  a  circular 
valley  enclosed  by  rugged  highlands,  through 
which  the  stream  forces  its  way  in  a  canon 
whose  precipitous  sides  overhang  it  to  the  height 
of  three  hundred  feet.  The  face  of  the  rock  (of 
a  dark  limestone)  is  in  many  places  perfectly 
vertical,  and  rises  from  the  water's  edge  to  a 
great  elevation,  pinons  and  small  cedars  grow- 
ing out  of  crevices  in  the  sides. 

After  leaving  this  creek  we  passed  a  barren 
rolling  prairie  with  scanty  herbage  and  covered 
with  the  palmilla*  or  soap-plant.  A  few  ante- 
lope were  its  only  tenants,  and  these  so  shy  that 
I  was  unable  to  approach  them.  Fourteen  miles 
from  the  San  Carlos  we  struck  the  Arkansa  at 
the  little  Indian  trading-fort  of  the  "Pueblo," 
which  is  situated  on  the  left  bank,  a  few  hundred 
yards  above  the  mouth  of  the  Fontaine-qui- 
bouille,  or  Boiling  Spring  River,  so  called  from 
two  springs  of  mineral  water  near  its  head- 
waters under  Pike's  Peak,  about  sixty  miles 

*  The  palmilla  or  soap-plant  is  a  species  of  cactus,  the  fibrous 
root  of  which  the  New  Mexicans  use  as  a  substitute  for  soap.  An 
abundant  lather  is  obtained  from  it. 


118     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

from  its  mouth.  Here  I  was  hospitably  enter- 
tained in  the  lodge  of  one  John  Hawkens,  an 
ex-trapper  and  well-known  mountaineer.  I 
turned  my  animals  loose,  and  allowed  them  to 
seek  for  themselves  the  best  pastures,  as  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  fort  the  prairies  were  perfectly 
bare  of  grass,  and  it  was  only  near  the  mountain 
that  any  of  a  good  quality  was  to  be  found. 


CHAPTER  VII 

BLIZZARD  IN  SOUTH  PARK 

THE  Arkansa  is  here  a  clear,  rapid  river 
about  a  hundred  yards  in  width.  The 
bottom,  which  is  enclosed  on  each  side  by 
high  bluffs,  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  across, 
and  timbered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  cotton- 
wood,  some  of  the  trees  being  of  great  size.  On 
each  side  vast  rolling  prairies  stretch  away  for 
hundreds  of  miles,  gradually  ascending  on  the 
side  towards  the  mountains,  and  the  highlands 
are  there  sparsely  covered  with  pinon  and  cedar. 
The  high  banks  through  which  the  river  occa- 
sionally passes  are  of  shale  and  sandstone,  and 
rise  precipitously  from  the  water.  Ascending 
the  river  the  country  is  wild  and  broken  until 
it  enters  the  mountains,  when  the  scenery  is 
grand  and  imposing;  but  the  prairies  around  it 
are  arid  and  sterile,  producing  but  little  vegeta- 
tion, and  the  grass,  though  of  good  quality,  is 
thin  and  scarce. 

The  Pueblo  is  a  small  square  fort  of  adobe 
with  circular  bastions  at  the  corners,  no  part  of 
the  walls  being  more  than  eight  feet  high,  and 
round  the  inside  of  the  yard  or  corral  are  built 

119 


120     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

some  half-dozen  little  rooms  inhabited  by  as 
many  Indian  traders,  coureurs  des  bois,  and 
mountain-men.  They  live  entirely  upon  game, 
and  the  greater  part  of  the  year  without  even 
bread,  since  but  little  maize  is  cultivated.  As 
soon  as  their  supply  of  meat  is  exhausted  they 
start  to  the  mountains  with  two  or  three  pack- 
animals,  and  bring  them  back  in  two  or  three 
days  loaded  with  buffalo  or  venison.  In  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  the  fort  game  is  very 
scarce,  and  the  buffalo  have  within  a  few  years 
deserted  the  neighboring  prairies,  but  they  are 
always  found  in  the  mountain-valleys,  par- 
ticularly in  one  called  Bayou  Salado,  which 
abounds  in  every  species  of  game,  including  elk, 
bears,  deer,  bighorn  or  Rocky  Mountain  sheep, 
buffalo,  antelope,  &c. 

Hunting  in  the  mountains  round  the  head 
of  Fontaine-qui-bouille  and  Bayou  Saiado  I 
remained  for  the  rest  of  the  winter,  which  was 
unusually  severe — so  much  so,  that  the  hunters 
were  not  unfrequently  afraid  to  venture  with 
their  animals  into  the  mountains.  Shortly 
after  my  arrival  on  Arkansa,  and  during  a  spell 
of  fine  sunny  weather,  I  started  with  a  Pueblo 
hunter  for  a  load  or  two  of  buffalo-meat,  intend- 
ing to  hunt  on  the  waters  of  the  Platte  and  the 
Bayou,  where  bulls  remain  in  good  condition 
during  the  winter  months,  feeding  on  the  rich 
grass  of  the  mountain  valleys.  I  took  with  me 


BLIZZARD  IN  SOUTH  PARK  121 

my  horse  and  three  pack-mules,  as  it  was  our 
intention  to  return  with  a  good  supply  of  meat. 

Our  course  lay  up  the  Fontaine-qui-bouille, 
and  on  the  third  day  we  entered  the  pine- 
covered  uplands  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 
Here  we  found  deer  so  abundant  that  we  deter- 
mined to  hunt  here,  rather  than  proceed  across 
the  ridge  on  to  the  waters  of  the  Platte.  We 
camped  on  a  little  mountain  stream  running 
into  the  creek  an  hour  or  two  before  sunset,  and, 
as  we  had  no  provisions,  we  sallied  out  to  hunt 
as  soon  as  we  had  unpacked  the  mules.  We 
killed  two  deer  almost  immediately,  and,  re- 
turning to  camp,  made  a  good  supper  off  some 
of  the  tidbits. 

The  next  morning  at  daybreak,  as  soon  as  I 
had  risen  from  my  blanket,  I  saw  a  herd  of  deer 
feeding  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  camp, 
and  seizing  my  rifle  I  immediately  took  advan- 
tage of  some  broken  ground  to  approach  them. 
Before,  however,  I  could  get  within  shot  they 
ascended  the  bluffs  and  moved  across  a  prairie, 
feeding  as  they  went.  I  took  a  long  circuit  to 
get  the  wind  of  them,  and,  following  a  ravine,  at 
length  brought  my  rifle  to  bear,  and  knocked 
over  a  fine  buck,  the  others  running  two  or  three 
hundred  yards  and  then  stopping  to  look  round 
for  their  missing  comrade.  As  I  ran  up  to  the 
dead  one,  and  took  out  my  knife  to  cut  the 
throat,  another  deer  ran  past  and  stopped 


122     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

between  me  and  the  herd,  and,  taking  a  long 
shot,  I  dropped  the  animal,  which,  however, 
rose  again  and  limped  slowly  away.  Leaving 
the  dead  one  and  my  ramrod  on  its  body,  I 
followed  the  wounded  deer,  and,  about  half  a 
mile  from  where  I  fired,  found  it  lying  dead. 
The  process  of  butchering  occupied  about 
twenty  minutes,  and,  packing  the  hams  and 
shoulders  on  my  back,  I  trudged  back  to  my 
first  victim.  As  I  was  crossing  a  ravine  and 
ascending  the  opposite  bluff,  I  saw  the  figure  of 
a  man  crawling  along  the  bottom,  evidently 
with  the  intention  of  approaching  me.  A  close 
inspection  assured  me  that  it  was  an  Indian; 
and  as  none  but  Arapahos  were  likely  to  be  in 
the  vicinity,  and  as  these  are  the  Indians  most 
hostile  to  the  white  hunters,  killing  them 
whenever  an  opportunity  offers,  I  made  up  my 
mind  that  a  war-party  was  about,  and  that 
I  and  my  companion  stood  a  very  good 
chance  of  "losing  our  hair."  As  the  Indian 
cautiously  advanced,  I  perceived  another  was 
running  round  the  prairie  to  cut  me  off  from 
camp,  and  consequently  I  determined  to  make 
good  my  ground  where  I  was,  throwing  down  the 
meat  and  getting  my  rifle  in  readiness  for  work. 
The  only  tribes  of  Indians  who  frequent  this 
part  of  the  mountains  are  the  Yutas  (or 
Utahs)  and  the  Arapahos,  who  are  hereditary 
enemies,  and  constantly  at  deadly  war  with  each 


BLIZZARD  IN  SOUTH  PARK  123 

other.  A  large  band  of  the  Yutas  had  been 
wintering  in  the  Bayou  Salado,  to  which  one 
trail  leads  by  the  Boiling  Spring  River  (where  I 
was  hunting),  and  another  by  the  Arkansa. 
The  former  is  the  trail  followed  by  the  Arapaho 
war-parties  when  on  an  expedition  against  the 
Yutas  in  the  Bayou,  and  therefore  I  felt  certain 
that  none  but  the  former  Indians  would  be 
met  with  in  this  vicinity.  However,  as  the 
Yutas  are  a  very  friendly  tribe,  I  was  loth  to 
be  the  first  to  commence  hostilities  in  case 
my  antagonist  might  prove  to  belong  to  that 
nation,  and  therefore  I  awaited  his  approach, 
which  he  made  stealthily,  until  he  saw  that  I 
had  discovered  him,  when,  throwing  himself 
erect,  and  gun  in  hand,  he  made  directly  towards 
me.  With  rifle  cocked  I  watched  his  eye  until 
he  came  within  fifty  yards,  when  suddenly, 
seeing  my  hostile  appearance,  he  stopped,  and, 
striking  his  hand  thrice  on  his  brawny  chest, 
exclaimed,  in  a  loud  voice — 

"Arapaho,  Arapaho!"  and  stood  erect  and 
still.  This  announcement  was  very  near  being 
fatal  to  him,  for,  on  hearing  him  proclaim  him- 
self one  of  that  hostile  nation,  my  rifle  was  up 
to  my  shoulder  in  an  instant,  and  covering  his 
heart.  As  my  finger  was  on  the  trigger,  it 
flashed  across  my  mind  that  I  had  heard  that 
two  Arapahos  were  amongst  the  hunters  on  the 
Arkansa,  their  sister  being  married  to  a  moun- 


124     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

taineer,  and  that  probably  the  dusky  gentleman 
at  the  end  of  my  rifle  was  one  of  these,  as  indeed 
he  proved  to  be.  I  accordingly  made  signals  of 
peace,  and  he  approached  and  shook  me  by 
the  hand.  That  his  intentions  were  not  alto- 
gether honest  I  have  no  doubt,  but,  finding  me 
prepared,  he  thought  it  more  advisable  to 
remain  en  paz — at  peace.  What  strengthened 
me  in  this  belief  was  the  fact,  which  I  shortly 
after  discovered,  that  a  war-party  of  his  nation 
were  at  that  moment  camped  within  a  few 
hundred  yards  of  us,  whose  vicinity  he  never 
apprised  me  of,  and  who,  if  they  had  seen  us, 
would  not  have  hesitated  an  instant  to  secure 
our  scalps  and  animals. 

When  I  returned  to  the  spot  where  I  had  left 
the  first  deer,  not  a  particle  was  visible  except 
some  hair  scattered  on  the  ground,  but  a  few 
hundred  yards  from  the  spot  a  dozen  wolves 
were  engaged  in  dining  off  a  lump  of  something, 
which,  on  approach,  I  found  to  be  the  remains 
of  my  deer,  leaving  behind  them,  when  dis- 
persed, a  handful  of  hair. 

The  sagacity  of  wolves  is  almost  incredible. 
They  will  remain  round  a  hunting-camp  and 
follow  the  hunters  the  whole  day,  in  bands  of 
three  and  four,  at  less  than  a  hundred  yards' 
distance,  stopping  when  they  stop,  and  sitting 
down  quietly  when  game  is  killed,  rushing  to 
devour  the  offal  when  the  hunter  retires,  and 


BLIZZARD  IN  SOUTH  PARK  125 

then  following  until  another  feed  is  offered 
them.  If  a  deer  or  antelope  is  wounded,  they 
immediately  pursue  it,  and  not  unfrequently 
pull  the  animal  down  in  time  for  the  hunter  to 
come  up  and  secure  it  from  their  ravenous 
clutches.  However,  they  appear  to  know  at 
once  the  nature  of  the  wound,  for  if  but  slightly 
touched  they  never  exert  themselves  to  follow 
a  deer,  chasing  those  only  which  have  received 
a  mortal  blow. 

I  one  day  killed  an  old  buck  which  was  so 
poor  that  I  left  the  carcase  on  the  ground  un- 
touched. Six  coyotes,  or  small  prairie  wolves, 
were  my  attendants  that  day,  and  of  course, 
before  I  had  left  the  deer  twenty  paces,  had 
commenced  their  work  of  destruction.  Certainly 
not  ten  minutes  after  I  looked  back  and  saw 
the  same  six  loping  after  me,  one  of  them  not 
twenty  yards  behind  me,  with  his  nose  and 
face  all  besmeared  with  blood,  and  his  belly 
swelled  almost  to  bursting.  Thinking  it  scarcely 
possible  that  they  could  have  devoured  the 
whole  deer  in  so  short  a  space,  I  had  the  curiosity 
to  return,  and,  to  my  astonishment,  found 
actually  nothing  left  but  a  pile  of  bones  and 
hair,  the  flesh  being  stripped  from  them  as 
clean  as  if  scraped  with  a  knife.  Half  an  hour 
after  I  killed  a  large  black-tail  deer,  and,  as  it 
was  also  in  miserable  condition,  I  took  merely 
the  fleeces  (as  the  meat  on  the  back  and  ribs  is 


126     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

called),  leaving  four-fifths  of  the  animal  un- 
touched. I  then  retired  a  short  distance,  and, 
sitting  down  on  a  rock,  lighted  my  pipe,  and 
watched  the  operations  of  the  wolves.  They 
sat  perfectly  still  until  I  had  withdrawn  some 
threescore  yards,  when  they  scampered,  with  a 
flourish  of  their  tails,  straight  to  the  deer. 
Then  commenced  such  a  tugging  and  snarling 
and  biting,  all  squeaking  and  swallowing  at  the 
same  moment.  A  skirmish  of  tails  and  flying 
hair  was  seen  for  five  minutes,  when  the  last 
of  them,  with  slouching  tail  and  evidently 
ashamed  of  himself,  withdrew,  and  nothing 
remained  on  the  ground  but  a  well-picked 
skeleton.  By  sunset,  when  I  returned  to  camp, 
they  had  swallowed  as  much  as  three  entire  deer. 

We  remained  hunting  in  the  mountains  some 
days,  and  left  the  Boiling  Spring  River  with  our 
mules  loaded  with  meat,  having,  almost  by  a 
miracle,  been  unmolested  by  the  Arapaho  war- 
party,  some  of  whom  I  saw  hunting  nearly 
every  day,  without  being  myself  discovered. 
Nothing  occurred  on  our  return  until  the  night 
of  the  second  day,  when  we  camped  on  the  creek 
in  a  spot  destitute  of  grass,  and  our  animals 
took  themselves  off  in  search  of  food  during  the 
night,  where  we  knew  not. 

The  next  morning  my  companion,  thinking 
to  find  them  close  at  hand,  left  me  in  camp 
cooking  the  breakfast  while  he  went  to  bring 


BLIZZARD  IN  SOUTH  PARK  127 

in  the  animals,  but  presently  returned,  saying 
that  he  could  find  neither  them  nor  their  track, 
but  had  discovered  fresh  Indian  sign  in  the 
bottom,  where  several  Indians  had  been  but  a 
few  hours  before,  and  that,  doubtless,  they  had 
made  "a  raise."  I  instantly  seized  my  rifle, 
and,  taking  a  circuit  round  the  camp,  came 
presently  upon  the  track  of  horses  and  mules, 
and  struck  at  once  after  them,  thinking  that,  of 
course,  they  were  those  made  by  our  animals,  as 
they  tallied  with  the  number,  being  two  horses 
and  three  mules.  I  had  followed  up  the  track 
for  ten  miles,  when,  in  crossing  a  piece  of  hard 
prairie  which  scarcely  yielded  to  the  impression 
of  the  hoofs,  I,  for  the  first  time,  observed  that 
not  one  of  the  animals  I  was  following  was  shod, 
and,  knowing  that  most  of  my  own  were  so,  I 
began  to  think,  and  soon  satisfied  myself  of  the 
fact,  that  they  were  not  those  I  was  in  search  of. 
As  soon  as  I  had  made  up  my  mind  to  this  I 
retraced  my  steps  to  camp,  and  immediately 
started  again  with  my  companion  in  another 
direction.  This  time  we  came  upon  the  right 
track,  and  found  that  it  took  an  easterly  direction 
and  that  the  animals  were  not  in  the  possession 
of  the  Indians,  as  their  ropes  still  dragged  along 
the  ground,  making  a  broad  trail.  Finding  this, 
we  returned  to  camp  and  ''cached99  our  meat  and 
packs  in  the  forks  of  a  cottonwood  tree,  out  of 
reach  of  wolves;  and  without  thinking  of 


128     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

cooking  anything,  so  anxious  were  we  to  find 
our  animals,  we  started  off  at  once  in  pursuit, 
carrying  a  lariat  and  saddle-blanket  to  ride  back 
on  in  case  we  found  the  mules. 

We  followed  the  trail  until  midnight,  by 
which  time  I  felt  not  a  little  tired,  as  I  had  been 
on  my  legs  since  daybreak,  and  had  not  broken 
my  fast  since  the  preceding  day.  We  therefore 
turned  into  the  bottom,  floundering  through  the 
bushes,  and  impaling  ourselves  at  every  step 
on  the  prickly  pears  which  covered  the  ground, 
and  made  a  fire  near  the  stream,  in  a  thicket 
which  in  some  degree  sheltered  us  from  the  cold. 
We  had  scarcely  however  lighted  the  fire  when  a 
gale  of  wind  burst  upon  us,  and,  scattering  the 
burning  brands  in  every  direction,  quickly  set 
fire  to  the  dry  grass  and  bushes  to  leeward  of 
the  fire.  All  our  efforts  to  prevent  this  were 
unavailing,  and  we  were  necessitated  to  put 
out  our  fire  to  prevent  the  whole  bottom  from 
being  burned.  As  the  cold  was  intense,  and  I 
had  no  covering  but  a  paltry  saddle-blanket 
about  four  feet  square,  sleep  was  out  of  the 
question  if  I  wished  to  keep  unfrozen,  so  that, 
after  an  hour  or  two's  rest  and  a  good  smoke,  we 
again  turned  out,  and  by  the  light  of  the  moon 
pursued  the  trail.  As  it  passed  over  prairies 
entirely  destitute  of  grass,  the  animals  had  never 
once  stopped,  but  continued  a  straight  course, 
without  turning  to  the  right  or  left ,  in  search 


BLIZZARD  IN  SOUTH  PARK  129 

of  pasture.  We  travelled  on  all  night,  and, 
halting  for  an  hour's  rest  in  the  morning,  about 
noon,  looking  ahead,  I  descried  four  objects 
feeding  in  the  plain.  I  called  out  to  my  compan- 
ion, who  was  a  little  in  rear,  that  there  they  were. 

"Elk,"  he  answered,  after  a  long  look,  "or 
Injuns.  They're  no  mules,  I'll  lay  a  dollar: 
Arapahos,  or  I  never  see  a  redskin." 

However,  at  that  distance  I  recognized  my 
mules,  and,  pushing  on,  I  found  them  quietly 
feeding  with  Panchito,  my  companion's  horse 
being  alone  missing,  and  they  suffered  me  to 
catch  them  without  difficulty.  As  we  were  now 
within  twenty  miles  of  the  fort,  Morgan,  who 
had  had  enough  of  it,  determined  to  return,  and 
I  agreed  to  go  back  with  the  animals  to  the 
cache,  and  bring  in  the  meat  and  packs.  I 
accordingly  tied  the  blanket  on  a  mule's  back, 
and,  leading  the  horse,  trotted  back  at  once  to 
the  grove  of  cottonwoods  where  we  had  before 
encamped.  The  sky  had  been  gradually  over- 
cast with  leaden-colored  clouds,  until,  when  near 
sunset,  it  was  one  huge  inky  mass  of  rolling 
darkness:  the  wind  had  suddenly  lulled,  and  an 
unnatural  calm,  which  so  surely  heralds  a 
storm  in  these  tempestuous  regions,  succeeded. 
The  ravens  were  winging  their  way  towards  the 
shelter  of  the  timber,  and  the  coyote  was  seen 
trotting  quickly  to  cover,  conscious  of  the  com- 
ing storm. 


130     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

The  black  threatening  clouds  seemed  gradu- 
ally to  descend  until  they  kissed  the  earth,  and 
already  the  distant  mountains  were  hidden  to 
their  very  bases.  A  hollow  murmuring  swept 
through  the  bottom,  but  as  yet  not  a  branch  was 
stirred  by  wind;  and  the  huge  cottonwoods,  with 
their  leafless  limbs,  loomed  like  a  line  of  ghosts 
through  the  heavy  gloom.  Knowing  but  too  well 
what  was  coming,  I  turned  my  animals  towards 
the  timber,  which  was  about  two  miles  distant. 
With  pointed  ears,  and  actually  trembling  with 
fright,  they  were  as  eager  as  myself  to  reach  the 
shelter;  but,  before  we  had  proceeded  a  third  of 
the  distance,  with  a  deafening  roar  the  tempest 
broke  upon  us.  The  clouds  opened  and  drove 
right  in  our  faces  a  storm  of  freezing  sleet,  which 
froze  upon  us  as  it  fell.  The  first  squall  of  wind 
carried  away  my  cap,  and  the  enormous  hail- 
stones, beating  on  my  unprotected  head  and 
face,  almost  stunned  me.  In  an  instant  my 
hunting-shirt  was  soaked,  and  as  instantly 
frozen  hard;  and  my  horse  was  a  mass  of 
icicles.  Jumping  off  my  mule — for  to  ride  was 
impossible — I  tore  off  the  saddle-blanket  and 
covered  my  head.  The  animals,  blinded  with 
the  sleet,  and  their  eyes  actually  coated  with 
ice,  turned  their  sterns  to  the  storm,  and,  blown 
before  it,  made  for  the  open  prairie.  All  my 
exertions  to  drive  them  to  the  shelter  of  the 
timber  was  useless.  It  was  impossible  to  face 


BLIZZARD  IN  SOUTH  PARK  131 

the  hurricane,  which  now  brought  with  it  clouds 
of  driving  snow;  and  perfect  darkness  soon  set  in. 

Still  the  animals  kept  on,  and  I  determined 
not  to  leave  them,  following,  or  rather  being 
blown  after  them.  My  blanket,  frozen  stiff 
like  a  board,  required  all  the  strength  of  my 
numbed  fingers  to  prevent  it  being  blown  away, 
and,  although  it  was  no  protection  against  the 
intense  cold,  I  knew  it  would  in  some  degree 
shelter  me  at  night  from  the  snow.  In  half  an 
hour  the  ground  was  covered  on  the  bare  prairie 
to  the  depth  of  two  feet,  and  through  this  I 
floundered  for  a  long  time  before  the  animals 
stopped.  The  prairie  was  as  bare  as  a  lake;  but 
one  little  tuft  of  greasewood  bushes  presented 
itself,  and  here,  turning  from  the  storm,  they 
suddenly  stopped  and  remained  perfectly  still. 
In  vain  I  again  attempted  to  turn  them  towards 
the  direction  of  the  timber;  huddled  together, 
they  would  not  move  an  inch;  and,  exhausted 
myself,  and  seeing  nothing  before  me  but,  as 
I  thought,  certain  death,  I  sank  down  immedi- 
ately behind  them,  and,  covering  my  head  with 
the  blanket,  crouched  like  a  ball  in  the  snow. 

I  would  have  started  myself  for  the  timber, 
but  it  was  pitchy  dark,  the  wind  drove  clouds 
of  frozen  snow  into  my  face,  and  the  animals 
had  so  turned  about  in  the  prairie  that  it  was 
impossible  to  know  the  direction  to  take;  and 
although  I  had  a  compass  with  me,  my  hands 


132     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

were  so  frozen  that  I  was  perfectly  unable,  after 
repeated  attempts,  to  unscrew  the  box  and  con- 
sult it.  Even  had  I  reached  the  timber,  my 
situation  would  have  been  scarcely  improved, 
for  the  trees  were  scattered  wide  about  over  a 
narrow  space,  and,  consequently,  afforded  but 
little  shelter;  and  if  even  I  had  succeeded  in 
getting  firewood — by  no  means  an  easy  matter 
at  any  time,  and  still  more  difficult  now  that 
the  ground  was  covered  with  three  feet  of  snow 
— I  was  utterly  unable  to  use  my  flint  and  steel 
to  procure  a  light,  since  my  fingers  were  like 
pieces  of  stone,  and  entirely  without  feeling. 

The  way  the  wind  roared  over  the  prairie  that 
night — how  the  snow  drove  before  it,  covering 
me  and  the  poor  animals  partly — and  how  I  lay 
there,  feeling  the  very  blood  freezing  in  my  veins, 
and  my  bones  petrifying  with  the  icy  blasts 
which  seemed  to  penetrate  them — how  for 
hours  I  remained  with  my  head  on  my  knees, 
and  the  snow  pressing  it  down  like  a  weight  of 
lead,  expecting  every  instant  to  drop  into  a 
sleep  from  which  I  knew  it  was  impossible  I 
should  ever  awake — how  every  now  and  then 
the  mules  would  groan  aloud  and  fall  down 
upon  the  snow,  and  then  again  struggle  on  their 
legs — how  all  night  long  the  piercing  howl  of 
wolves  was  borne  upon  the  wind,  which  never 
for  an  instant  abated  its  violence  during  the 
night, — I  would  not  attempt  to  describe.  I 


BLIZZARD  IN  SOUTH  PARK  133 

have  passed  many  nights  alone  in  the  wilderness, 
and  in  a  solitary  camp  have  listened  to  the 
roarings  of  the  wind  and  the  howling  of  wolves, 
and  felt  the  rain  or  snow  beating  upon  me,  with 
perfect  unconcern:  but  this  night  threw  all  my 
former  experiences  into  the  shade,  and  is  marked 
with  the  blackest  of  stones  in  the  memoranda 
of  my  journey  ings. 

Once,  late  in  the  night,  by  keeping  my  hands 
buried  in  the  breast  of  my  hunting-shirt,  I 
succeeded  in  restoring  sufficient  feeling  into 
them  to  enable  me  to  strike  a  light.  Luckily 
my  pipe,  which  was  made  out  of  a  huge  piece 
of  cottonwood  bark,  and  capable  of  containing 
at  least  twelve  ordinary  pipefuls,  was  filled 
with  tobacco  to  the  brim;  and  this  I  do  believe 
kept  me  alive  during  the  night,  for  I  smoked 
and  smoked  until  the  pipe  itself  caught  fire,  and 
burned  completely  to  the  stem. 

I  was  just  sinking  into  a  dreamy  stupor,  when 
the  mules  began  to  shake  themselves,  and  sneeze 
and  snort;  which  hailing  as  a  good  sign,  and 
that  they  were  still  alive,  I  attempted  to  lift 
my  head  and  take  a  view  of  the  weather.  When 
with  great  difficulty  I  raised  my  head,  all 
appeared  dark  as  pitch,  and  it  did  not  at  first 
occur  to  me  that  I  was  buried  deep  in  snow;  but 
when  I  thrust  my  arm  above  me,  a  hole  was 
thus  made,  through  which  I  saw  the  stars 
shining  in  the  sky  and  the  clouds  fast  clearing 


134     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

away.  Making  a  sudden  attempt  to  straighten 
my  almost  petrified  back  and  limbs,  I  rose,  but, 
unable  to  stand,  fell  forward  in  the  snow, 
frightening  the  animals,  which  immediately 
started  away.  When  I  gained  my  legs  I  found 
that  day  was  just  breaking,  a  long  grey  line 
of  light  appearing  over  the  belt  of  timber  on  the 
creek,  and  the  clouds  gradually  rising  from  the 
east,  and  allowing  the  stars  to  peep  from 
patches  of  blue  sky.  Following  the  animals 
as  soon  as  I  gained  the  use  of  my  limbs,  and 
taking  a  last  look  at  the  perfect  cave  from  which 
I  had  just  risen,  I  found  them  in  the  timber,  and, 
singular  enough,  under  the  very  tree  where  we 
had  cached  our  meat.  However,  I  was  unable 
to  ascend  the  tree  in  my  present  state,  and  my 
frost-bitten  fingers  refused  to  perform  their 
offices;  so  that  I  jumped  upon  my  horse,  and, 
followed  by  the  mules,  galloped  back  to  the 
Arkansa,  which  I  reached  in  the  evening,  half 
dead  with  hunger  and  cold. 

The  hunters  had  given  me  up  for  lost,  as  such 
a  night  even  the  "oldest  inhabitant"  had  never 
witnessed.  My  late  companion  had  reached 
the  Arkansa,  and  was  safely  housed  before  it 
broke,  blessing  his  lucky  stars  that  he  had  not 
gone  back  with  me.  The  next  morning  he 
returned  and  brought  in  the  meat;  while  I  spent 
two  days  in  nursing  my  frozen  fingers  and  feet, 


BLIZZARD  IN  SOUTH  PARK  135 

and  making  up,  in  feasting  mountain  fashion, 
for  the  banyans  I  had  suffered. 

The  morning  after  my  arrival  on  Arkansa, 
two  men,  named  Harwood  and  Markhead — the 
latter  one  of  the  most  daring  and  successful 
trappers  that  ever  followed  this  adventurous 
mountain  life,  and  whom  I  had  intended  to  have 
hired  as  a  guide  to  the  valley  of  the  Columbia  the 
ensuing  spring — started  off  to  the  settlement  of 
New  Mexico,  with  some  packs  of  peltries,  in- 
tending to  bring  back  Taos  whisky  (a  very 
profitable  article  of  trade  amongst  the  mountain- 
men)  and  some  bags  of  flour  and  Indian  meal. 

I  found  on  returning  from  my  hunt  that  a 
man  named  John  Albert  had  brought  intelli- 
gence that  the  New  Mexicans  and  Pueblo 
Indians  had  risen  in  the  Valley  of  Taos,  and,  as 
I  have  before  mentioned,  massacred  Governor 
Bent  and  other  Americans,  and  had  also 
attacked  and  destroyed  Turley's  ranch  on  the 
Arroyo  Hondo,  killing  him  and  most  of  his 
men.  Albert  had  escaped  from  the  house,  and, 
charging  through  the  assailants,  made  for  the 
mountains,  and,  travelling  night  and  day,  and 
without  food,  had  reached  the  Greenhorn  with 
the  news,  and  after  recruiting  for  a  couple  of 
days  had  come  on  to  the  Arkansa  with  the 
intelligence,  which  threw  the  fierce  mountaineers 
into  a  perfect  frenzy. 

As    Markhead    and    Harwood    would    have 


136     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

arrived  in  the  settlements  about  the  time  of  the 
rising,  little  doubt  remained  as  to  their  fate, 
but  it  was  not  until  nearly  two  months  after 
that  any  intelligence  was  brought  concerning 
them.  It  seemed  that  they  arrived  at  the  Rio 
Colorado,  the  first  New  Mexican  settlement,  on 
the  seventh  or  eighth  day,  when  the  people  had 
just  received  news  of  the  massacre  in  Taos. 
These  savages,  after  stripping  them  of  their 
goods,  and  securing,  by  treachery,  their  arms, 
made  them  mount  their  mules  under  the  pre- 
tence of  conducting  them  to  Taos,  there  to  be 
given  up  to  the  chief  of  the  insurrection.  They 
had  hardly,  however,  left  the  village  when  a 
Mexican,  riding  behind  Harwood,  discharged 
his  gun  into  his  back:  Harwood,  calling  to 
Markhead  that  he  was  "finished,"  fell  dead  to 
the  ground.  Markhead,  seeing  that  his  own 
fate  was  sealed,  made  no  struggle,  and  was 
likewise  shot  in  the  back  by  several  balls.  They 
were  then  stripped  and  scalped  and  shockingly 
mutilated,  and  their  bodies  thrown  into  the 
bush  by  the  side  of  the  creek  to  be  devoured  by 
the  wolves.  They  were  both  remarkably  fine 
young  men. 

Markhead  was  celebrated  hi  the  mountains 
for  his  courage  and  reckless  daring,  having  had 
many  almost  miraculous  escapes  when  in  the 
very  hands  of  hostile  Indians.  He  had  a  few 
years  ago  accompanied  Sir  W.  Drummond 


BLIZZARD  IN  SOUTH  PARK  137 

Stewart  in  one  of  his  expeditions  across  the 
mountains.  It  happened  that  a  half-breed  of 
the  company  absconded  one  night  with  some 
animals  belonging  to  Sir  William,  who,  being 
annoyed  at  the  circumstance,  said  hastily,  and 
never  dreaming  that  his  offer  would  be  taken  up, 
that  he  would  give  five  hundred  dollars  for  the 
scalp  of  the  thief.  The  next  day  Markhead 
rode  into  camp  with  the  scalp  of  the  unfortunate 
horse-thief  hanging  at  the  end  of  his  rifle,  and  I 
believe  received  the  reward,  at  least  so  he  him- 
self declared  to  me,  for  this  act  of  mountain  law. 
On  one  occasion,  whilst  trapping  on  the  waters 
of  the  Yellowstone,  in  the  midst  of  the  Black- 
foot  country,  he  came  suddenly  upon  two  or 
three  lodges,  from  which  the  Indians  happened 
to  be  absent.  There  was  no  doubt,  from  signs 
which  he  had  previously  discovered,  that  they 
were  lying  in  wait  for  him  somewhere  on  the 
stream  to  attack  him  when  examining  his  traps, 
the  Blackfeet,  moreover,  being  most  bitterly 
hostile  to  the  white  trappers,  and  killing  them 
without  mercy  whenever  an  occasion  offered. 
Notwithstanding  the  almost  certainty  that 
some  of  the  Indians  were  close  at  hand,  probably 
gone  out  for  a  supply  of  wood  and  would  very 
soon  return,  Markhead  resolved  to  visit  the 
lodges  and  help  himself  to  anything  worth 
taking  that  he  might  find  there.  The  fire  was 
burning,  and  meat  was  actually  cooking  in  a 


138     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

pot  over  it.  To  this  he  did  ample  justice, 
emptying  the  pot  in  a  very  satisfactory  manner, 
after  which  he  tied  all  the  blankets,  dressed 
skins,  moccasins,  &c.,  into  a  bundle,  and, 
mounting  his  horse,  got  safely  off  with  his 
prize. 

It  was  not  always,  however,  that  he  escaped 
scatheless,  for  his  body  was  riddled  with  balls 
received  in  many  a  bloody  affray  with  Blackfeet 
and  other  Indians. 

Laforey,  the  old  Canadian  trapper,  with 
whom  I  stayed  at  Red  River,  was  accused  of 
having  possessed  himself  of  the  property  found 
on  the  two  mountaineers,  and  afterwards  of 
having  instigated  the  Mexicans  to  the  barbarous 
murder.  The  hunters  on  Arkansa  vowed  ven- 
geance against  him,  and  swore  to  have  his  hair 
some  day,  as  well  as  similar  love-locks  from  the 
people  of  Red  River;  A  war-expedition  was 
also  talked  of  to  that  settlement,  to  avenge  the 
murder  of  their  comrades,  and  ease  the  Mexicans 
of  their  mules  and  horses. 

The  massacre  of  Turley  and  his  people,  and 
the  destruction  of  his  mill,  were  not  consummated 
without  considerable  loss  to  the  barbarous  and 
cowardly  assailants.  There  were  in  the  house, 
at  the  time  of  the  attack,  eight  white  men,,  in- 
cluding Americans,  French  Canadians,  and  one 
or  two  Englishmen,  with  plenty  of  arms  and 
ammunition.  Turley  had  been  warned  of  the 


BLIZZARD  IN  SOUTH  PARK  139 

intended  insurrection,  but  had  treated  the 
report  with  indifference  and  neglect,  until  one 
morning  a  man  named  Otterbees,  in  the  employ 
of  Turley,  and  who  had  been  despatched  to 
Sante  Fe  with  several  mule-loads  of  whisky  a 
few  days  before,  made  his  appearance  at  the 
gate  on  horseback,  and,  hastily  informing  the 
inmates  of  the  mill  that  the  New  Mexicans  had 
risen  and  massacred  Governor  Bent  and  other 
Americans,  galloped  off.  Even  then  Turley  felt 
assured  that  he  would  not  be  molested,  but, 
at  the  solicitations  of  his  men,  agreed  to  close 
the  gate  of  the  yard  round  which  were  the 
buildings  of  a  mill  and  distillery,  and  make 
preparations  for  defence. 

A  few  hours  after  a  large  crowd  of  Mexicans 
and  Pueblo  Indians  made  their  appearance,  all 
armed  with  guns  and  bows  and  arrows,  and, 
advancing  with  a  white  flag,  summoned  Turley 
to  surrender  his  house  and  the  Americans  in  it, 
guaranteeing  that  his  own  life  should  be  saved, 
but  that  every  other  American  in  the  valley  of 
Taos  had  to  be  destroyed;  that  the  Governor  and 
all  the  Americans  at  Fernandez  and  the  rancho 
had  been  killed,  and  that  not  one  was  to  be  left 
alive  in  all  New  Mexico. 

To  this  summons  Turley  answered  that  he 
would  never  surrender  his  house  nor  his  men, 
and  that,  if  they  wanted  it  or  them,  "they  must 
take  them." 


140     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

The  enemy  then  drew  off,  and,  after  a  short 
consultation  commenced  the  attack.  The  first 
day  they  numbered  about  five  hundred,  but 
the  crowd  was  hourly  augmented  by  the  arrival 
of  parties  of  Indians  from  the  more  distant 
pueblos,  and  of  New  Mexicans  from  Fernandez, 
La  Canada,  and  other  places. 

The  building  lay  at  the  foot  of  a  gradual  slope 
in  the  sierra,  which  was  covered  with  cedar- 
bushes.  In  front  ran  the  stream  of  the  Arroyo 
Hondo,  about  twenty  yards  from  one  side  of  the 
square,  and  on  the  other  side  was  broken  ground, 
which  rose  abruptly  and  formed  the  bank  of  the 
ravine.  In  rear,  and  behind  the  still-house,  was 
some  garden-ground  enclosed  by  a  small  fence, 
and  into  which  a  small  wicket-gate  opened  from 
the  corral. 

As  soon  as  the  attack  was  determined  upon, 
the  assailants  broke,  and,  scattering,  concealed 
themselves  under  the  cover  of  the  rocks  and 
bushes  which  surrounded  the  house. 

From  these  they  kept  up  an  incessant  fire 
upon  every  exposed  portion  of  the  building  where 
they  saw  the  Americans  preparing  for  defence. 

They,  on  their  part,  were  not  idle;  not  a  man 
but  was  an  old  mountaineer,  and  each  had  his 
trusty  rifle,  with  good  store  of  ammunition. 
Wherever  one  of  the  assailants  exposed  a  hand's- 
breadth  of  his  person,  there  whistled  a  ball  from 
an  unerring  barrel.  The  windows  had  been 


BLIZZARD  IN  SOUTH  PARK  141 

blockaded,  loop-holes  being  left  to  fire  through, 
and  through  these  a  lively  fire  was  maintained. 
Already  several  of  the  enemy  had  bitten  the 
dust,  and  parties  were  constantly  seen  bearing 
off  the  wounded  up  the  banks  of  the  Canada. 
Darkness  came  on,  and  during  the  night  a  con- 
tinual fire  was  kept  up  on  the  mill,  whilst  its 
defenders,  reserving  their  ammunition,  kept 
their  posts  with  stern  and  silent  determination. 
The  night  was  spent  in  running  balls,  cutting 
patches,  and  completing  the  defences  of  the 
building.  In  the  morning  the  fight  was  re- 
newed, and  it  was  found  that  the  Mexicans  had 
effected  a  lodgment  in  a  part  of  the  stables, 
which  were  separated  from  the  other  portions 
of  the  building,  and  between  which  was  an  open 
space  of  a  few  feet.  The  assailants,  during  the 
night,  had  sought  to  break  down  the  wall,  and 
thus  enter  the  main  building,  but  the  strength 
of  the  adobes  and  logs  of  which  it  was  com- 
posed resisted  effectually  all  their  attempts. 

Those  in  the  stable  seemed  anxious  to  regain 
the  outside,  for  their  position  was  unavailable 
as  a  means  of  annoyance  to  the  besieged,  and 
several  had  darted  across  the  narrow  space 
which  divided  it  from  the  other  part  of  the 
building,  and  which  slightly  projected,  and 
behind  which  they  were  out  of  the  line  of  fire. 
As  soon,  however,  as  the  attention  of  the  de- 
fenders was  called  to  this  point,  the  first  man 


142     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

who  attempted  to  cross,  and  who  happened  to 
be  a  Pueblo  chief,  was  dropped  on  the  instant, 
and  fell  dead  in  the  centre  of  the  intervening 
space.  It  appeared  an  object  to  recover  the 
body,  for  an  Indian  immediately  dashed  out  to 
the  fallen  chief,  and  attempted  to  drag  him 
within  the  cover  of  the  wall.  The  rifle  which 
covered  the  spot  again  poured  forth  its  deadly 
contents,  and  the  Indian  springing  into  the  air, 
fell  over  the  body  of  his  chief,  struck  to  the  heart. 
Another  and  another  met  with  a  similar  fate, 
and  at  last  three  rushed  at  once  to  the  spot,  and, 
seizing  the  body  by  the  legs  and  head,  had 
already  lifted  it  from  the  ground,  when  three 
puffs  of  smoke  blew  from  the  barricaded 
window,  followed  by  the  sharp  cracks  of  as 
many  rifles,  and  the  three  daring  Indians  added 
their  number  to  the  pile  of  corpses  which  now 
covered  the  body  of  the  dead  chief. 

As  yet  the  besieged  had  met  with  no  casual- 
ties; but  after  the  fall  of  the  seven  Indians,  in 
the  manner  above  described,  the  whole  body  of 
assailants,  with  a  shout  of  rage,  poured  in  a 
rattling  volley,  and  two  of  the  defenders  of  the 
mill  fell  mortally  wounded,  f  One,  shot  through 
the  loins,  suffered  great  agony,  and  was  removed 
to  the  still-house,  where  he  was  laid  upon  a  large 
pile  of  grain,  as  being  the  softest  bed  to  be  found. 
T  In  the  middle  of  the  day  the  assailants  re- 
newed the  attack  more  fiercely  than  before, 


BLIZZARD  IN  SOUTH  PARK  143 

their  baffled  attempts  adding  to  their  furious 
rage.  The  little  garrison  bravely  stood  to  the 
defence  of  the  mill,  never  throwing  away  a  shot, 
but  firing  coolly,  and  only  when  a  fair  mark  was 
presented  to  their  unerring  aim.  Their  am- 
munition, however,  was  fast  failing,  and,  to 
add  to  the  danger  of  their  situation,  the  enemy 
set  fire  to  the  mill,  which  blazed  fiercely,  and 
threatened  destruction  to  the  whole  building. 
Twice  they  succeeded  in  overcoming  the  flames, 
and,  taking  advantage  of  their  being  thus 
occupied,  the  Mexicans  and  Indians  charged 
into  the  corral,  which  was  full  of  hogs  and  sheep, 
and  vented  their  cowardly  rage  upon  the 
animals,  spearing  and  shooting  all  that  came  in 
their  way.  No  sooner,  however,  were  the 
flames  extinguished  in  one  place,  than  they 
broke  out  more  fiercely  in  another;  and  as  a 
successful  defence  was  perfectly  hopeless,  and 
the  numbers  of  the  assailants  increased  every 
moment,  a  council  of  war  was  held  by  the 
survivors  of  the  little  garrison,  when  it  was 
determined,  as  soon  as  night  approached,  that 
every  one  should  attempt  to  escape  as  best  he 
might,  and  in  the  mean  time  the  defence  of  the 
mill  was  to  be  continued. 

Just  at  dusk,  Albert  and  another  man  ran  to 
the  wicket-gate  which  opened  into  a  kind  of 
enclosed  space,  and  in  which  was  a  number  of 
armed  Mexicans.  They  both  rushed  out  at 


144=     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

the  same  moment,  discharging  their  rifles  full 
in  the  faces  of  the  crowd.  Albert,  in  the  con- 
fusion, threw  himself  under  the  fence,  whence 
he  saw  his  companion  shot  down  immediately, 
and  heard  his  cries  for  mercy,  mingled  with 
shrieks  of  pain  and  anguish,  as  the  cowards 
pierced  him  with  knives  and  lances.  Lying 
without  motion  under  the  fence,  as  soon  as  it 
was  quite  dark  he  crept  over  the  logs  and  ran 
up  the  mountain,  travelled  day  and  night,  and, 
scarcely  stopping  or  resting,  reached  the  Green- 
horn, almost  dead  with  hunger  and  fatigue. 
Turley  himself  succeeded  in  escaping  from  the 
mill  and  in  reaching  the  mountain  unseen. 
Here  he  met  a  Mexican,  mounted  on  a  horse, 
who  had  been  a  most  intimate  friend  of  the 
unfortunate  man  for  many  years.  To  this  man 
Turley  offered  his  watch  (which  was  treble  the 
value)  for  the  use  of  his  horse,  but  was  refused. 
The  inhuman  wretch,  however,  affected  pity 
and  commiseration  for  the  fugitive,  and  advised 
him  to  go  to  a  certain  place,  where  he  would 
bring  or  send  him  assistance;  but  on  reaching  the 
mill,  which  was  now  a  mass  of  fire,  he  im- 
mediately informed  the  Mexicans  of  his  place 
of  concealment,  whither  a  large  party  instantly 
proceeded  and  shot  him  to  death. 

Two  others  escaped  and  reached  Santa  Fe  in 
safety.  The  mill  and  Turley's  house  were 
sacked  and  gutted,  and  all  his  hard-earned 


BLIZZARD  IN  SOUTH  PARK  145 

savings,  which  were  considerable,  and  con- 
cealed in  gold  about  the  house,  were  discovered, 
and  of  course  seized  upon,  by  the  victorious 
Mexicans. 

The  Indians,  however,  met  a  few  days  after 
with  a  severe  retribution.  The  troops  marched 
out  of  Santa  Fe,  attacked  their  pueblo,  and 
levelled  it  to  the  ground,  killing  many  hundreds 
of  its  defenders,  and  taking  many  prisoners, 
most  of  whom  were  hanged. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

THE  BEAVER  AND  His  TRAPPER 

BEAVER  has  so  depreciated  in  value  within 
the  last  few  years,  that  trapping  has 
been  almost  abandoned;  the  price  paid 
for  the  skin  of  this  valuable  animal  having  fallen 
from  six  and  eight  dollars  per  pound  to  one 
dollar,  which  hardly  pays  the  expenses  of  traps, 
animals,  and  equipment  for  the  hunt,  and  is 
certainly  no  adequate  remuneration  for  the 
incredible  hardships,  toil,  and  danger,  which 
are  undergone  by  the  hardy  trappers  in  the 
course  of  their  adventurous  expeditions.  The 
cause  of  the  great  decrease  in  value  of  beaver- 
fur  is  the  substitute  which  has  been  found  for 
it  in  the  skins  of  the  fur-seal  and  nutria — the 
improved  preparation  of  other  skins  of  little 
value,  such  as  the  hare  and  rabbit — and,  more 
than  all,  in  the  use  of  silk  in  the  manufacture  of 
hats,  which  has  in  a  great  measure  superseded 
that  of  beaver.  Thus  the  curse  of  the  trapper  is 
levelled  against  all  the  new-fashioned  materials 
of  Paris  hats;  and  the  light  and  (h)airy  gossamer 
of  twelve-and-six  is  anathematized  in  the 
mountains  in  a  way  which  would  be  highly  dis- 
146 


THE  BEAVER  AND  HIS  TRAPPER         147 

tressing  to  the  feelings  of  Messrs.  Jupp  and 
Johnson,  and  other  artists  in  the  ventilating- 
gossamer  line. 

Thanks  to  the  innovation,  however,  a  little 
breathing-time  has  been  allowed  the  persecuted 
castor;  and  this  valuable  fur-bearing  animal, 
which  otherwise  would,  in  the  course  of  a  few 
years,  have  become  extinct,  has  now  a  chance  of 
multiplying,  and  will  in  a  short  time  again  become 
abundant;  for,  although  not  a  very  prolific 
animal,  the  beaver  has  perhaps  fewer  natural 
enemies  than  any  other  of  the  feres  naturce,  and 
being  at  the  same  time  a  wise  and  careful  one, 
provides  against  all  contingencies  of  cold  and 
hunger,  which  in  northern  climates  carry  off  so 
large  a  proportion  of  his  brother  beasts. 

The  beaver  was  once  found  in  every  part  of 
North  America  from  Canada  to  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  but  has  now  gradually  retired  from  the 
encroachments  and  the  persecutions  of  civilized 
man,  and  is  met  with  only  in  the  far,  far  west,on 
the  tributaries  of  the  great  rivers,  and  the  streams 
which  water  the  mountain  valleys  in  the  great 
chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  On  the  waters 
of  the  Platte  and  Arkansa  they  are  still  numer- 
ous, and  within  the  last  two  years  have  increased 
considerably  in  numbers;  but  the  best  trapping- 
ground  now  is  on  the  streams  running  through 
the  Bayou  Salado,  and  the  Old  and  New  Parks, 
all  of  which  are  elevated  mountain  valleys. 


148       WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

The  habits  of  the  beaver  present  quite  a 
study  to  the  naturalist,  and  they  are  certainly 
the  most  sagaciously  instinctive  of  all  quadru- 
peds. Their  dams  afford  a  lesson  to  the  engi- 
neer, their  houses  a  study  to  the  architect  of 
comfortable  abodes,  while  their  unremitting 
labor  and  indefatigable  industry  are  models 
to  be  followed  by  the  working-man.  The  lodge 
of  the  beaver  is  generally  excavated  in  the  bank 
of  the  stream,  the  entrance  being  invariably 
under  water;  but  not  unfrequently,  where  the 
banks  are  flat,  the  animals  construct  lodges  in 
the  stream  itself,  of  a  conical  form,  of  limbs 
and  branches  of  trees  woven  together  and  ce- 
mented with  mud.  For  the  purpose  of  forming 
dams,  for  the  necessary  timber  for  their  lodges, 
or  for  the  bark  which  they  store  for  their 
winter's  supply  of  food,  the  beaver  often  fells  a 
tree  eight  or  ten  inches  in  diameter,  throwing  it, 
with  the  skill  of  an  expert  woodsman,  in  any 
direction  he  pleases,  always  selecting  a  tree 
above  the  stream,  in  order  that  the  logs  may  be 
carried  down  with  it  to  their  destination.  The 
log  is  then  chopped  into  small  lengths,  and, 
pushing  them  into  the  water,  the  beaver  steers 
them  to  the  lodge  or  dam.  These  trees  are  as 
cleanly  cut  as  they  could  be  by  a  sharp  axe,  the 
gouging  furrows  made  by  the  animal's  strong 
teeth  cutting  into  the  very  centre  of  the  trunk, 
the  notch  being  smooth  as  sawed  wood. 


THE  BEAVER  AND  HIS  TRAPPER         149 

With  his  broad  tail,  which  is  twelve  or  four- 
teen inches  long,  and  about  four  in  breadth,  and 
covered  with  a  thick  scaly  skin,  the  beaver 
plasters  his  lodge,  thus  making  it  perform  all 
the  offices  of  a  hand.  They  say  that,  when  the 
beaver's  tail  becomes  dry,  the  animal  dies,  but, 
whether  this  is  the  case  or  not,  I  have  myself 
seen  the  beaver  when  at  work  return  to  the 
water  and  plunge  his  tail  into  the  stream,  and 
then  resume  his  labor  with  renewed  vigor;  and 
I  have  also  seen  them,  with  their  bodies  on  the 
bank,  thumping  the  water  with  their  tails  with 
a  most  comical  perseverance. 

The  female  seldom  produces  more  than  three 
kittens  at  a  birth,  but  I  know  an  instance  where 
one  was  killed  with  young,  having  no  less  than 
eleven  in  her.  They  live  to  a  considerable  age, 
and  I  once  ate  the  tail  of  an  old  "man"  beaver 
whose  head  was  perfectly  grey  with  age,  and  his 
beard  was  of  the  same  venerable  hue,  notwith- 
standing which  his  tail  was  tender  as  a  young 
raccoon.  The  kittens  are  as  playful  as  their 
namesakes  of  the  feline  race,  and  it  is  highly 
amusing  to  see  an  old  one  with  grotesque 
gravity  inciting  her  young  to  gambol  about  her, 
whilst  she  herself  is  engaged  about  some  house- 
hold work. 

The  nutrias  of  Mexico  are  identical  with  the 
beavers  of  the  more  northern  parts  of  America; 
but  in  South  America,  and  on  some  parts  of  the 


150     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

western  coast  of  North  America,  a  species  of 
seal,  or,  as  I  have  heard  it  described*  a  hybrid 
between  the  seal  and  the  beaver,  is  called 
nutria — quite  a  distinct  animal,  however,  from 
the  Mexican  nutria. 

The  trappers  of  the  Rocky  Mountains 
belong  to  a  "genus"  more  approximating  to  the 
primitive  savage  than  perhaps  any  other  class 
of  civilized  man.  Their  lives  being  spent  in  the 
remote  wilderness  of  the  mountains,  with  no 
other  companion  than  Nature  herself,  their 
habits  and  character  assume  a  most  singular 
cast  of  simplicity  mingled  with  ferocity,  ap- 
pearing to  take  their  coloring  from  the  scenes 
and  objects  which  surround  them.  Knowing 
no  wants  save  those  of  nature,  their  sole  care 
is  to  procure  sufficient  food  to  support  life,  and 
the  necessary  clothing  to  protect  them  from  the 
rigorous  climate.  This  with  the  assistance  of 
their  trusty  rifles,  they  are  generally  able  to 
effect,  but  sometimes  at  the  expense  of  great 
peril  and  hardship.  When  engaged  in  their 
avocation,  the  natural  instinct  of  primitive 
man  is  ever  alive,  for  the  purpose  of  guarding 
against  danger  and  the  provision  of  necessary 
food. 

Keen  observers  of  nature,  they  rival  the 
beasts  of  prey  in  discovering  the  haunts  and 
habits  of  game,  and  in  their  skill  and  cunning  in 
capturing  it.  Constantly  exposed  to  perils  of 


THE  BEAVER  AND  HIS  TRAPPER          151 

all  kinds,  they  become  callous  to  any  feeling  of 
danger,  and  destroy  human  as  well  as  animal 
life  with  as  little  scruple  and  as  freely  as  they 
expose  their  own.  Of  laws,  human  or  divine, 
they  neither  know  nor  care  to  know.  Their 
wish  is  their  law,  and  to  attain  it  they  do  not 
scruple  as  to  ways  and  means.  Firm  friends  and 
bitter  enemies,  with  them  it  is  "a  word  and  a 
blow,"  and  the  blow  often  first.  They  may  have 
good  qualities,  but  they  are  those  of  the  animal; 
and  people  fond  of  giving  hard  names  call  them 
revengeful,  bloodthirsty,  drunkards  (when  the 
wherewithal  is  to  be  had),  gamblers,  regardless 
of  the  laws  of  meum  and  tuum — in  fact,  "White 
Indians." 

However,  there  are  exceptions,  and  I  have 
met  honest  mountain  men.  Their  animal 
qualities,  however,  are  undeniable.  Strong, 
active,  hardy  as  bears,  daring,  expert  in  the  use 
of  their  weapons,  they  are  just  what  uncivilized 
white  man  might  be  supposed  to  be  in  a  brute 
state,  depending  upon  his  instinct  for  the 
support  of  life.  Not  a  hole  or  corner  in  the  vast 
wilderness  of  the  "Far  West"  but  has  been 
ransacked  by  these  hardy  men.  From  the 
Mississippi  to  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado  of  the 
West,  from  the  frozen  regions  of  the  North  to 
the  Gila  in  Mexico,  the  beaver-hunter  has  set 
his  traps  in  every  creek  and  stream.  All  this 
vast  country,  but  for  the  daring  enterprise  of 


152       WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

these  men,  would  be  even  now  a  terra  incognita 
to  geographers,  as  indeed  a  great  portion  still  is; 
but  there  is  not  an  acre  that  has  not  been 
passed  and  repassed  by  the  trappers  in  their 
perilous  excursions.  The  mountains  and  streams 
still  retain  the  names  assigned  to  them  by  the 
rude  hunters;  and  these  alone  are  the  hardy 
pioneers  who  have  paved  the  way  for  the 
settlement  of  the  western  country. 

Trappers  are  of  two  kinds,  the  "hired  hand" 
and  the  "free  trapper:"  the  former  hired  for  the 
hunt  by  the  fur  companies;  the  latter,  supplied 
with  animals  and  traps  by  the  company,  is 
paid  a  certain  price  for  his  furs  and  peltries. 

There  is  also  the  trapper  "on  his  own  hook;" 
but  this  class  is  very  small.  He  has  his  own 
animals  and  traps,  hunts  where  he  chooses,  and 
sells  his  peltries  to  whom  he  pleases. 

On  starting  for  a  hunt,  the  trapper  fits  him- 
self out  with  the  necessary  equipment,  either 
from  the  Indian  trading-forts,  or  from  some  of 
the  petty  traders — coureurs  des  bois — who  fre- 
quent the  western  country.  This  equipment 
consists  usually  of  two  or  three  horses  or  mules — 
one  for  saddle,  the  others  for  packs — and  six 
traps,  which  are  carried  in  a  bag  of  leather  called 
a  trap-sack.  Ammunition,  a  few  pounds  of 
tobacco,  dressed  deer-skins  for  moccasins,  &c., 
are  carried  in  a  wallet  of  dressed  buffalo-skin 
called  a  possible-sack.  His  "possibles"  and 


THE  BEAVER  AND  HIS  TRAPPER         153 

"trap-sack"  are  generally  carried  on  the  saddle- 
mule  when  hunting,  the  others  being  packed 
with  the  furs.  The  costume  of  the  trapper  is  a 
hunting-shirt  of  dressed  buckskin,  ornamented 
with  long  fringes*;  pantaloons  of  the  same 
material,  and  decorated  with  porcupine-quills 
and  long  fringes  down  the  outside  of  the  leg. 
a  flexible  felt  hat  and  moccasins  clothe  his 
extremities.  Over  his  left  shoulder  and  under 
his  right  arm  hang  his  powder-horn  and  bullet- 
pouch,  in  which  he  carries  his  balls,  flint  and 
steel,  and  odds  and  ends  of  all  kinds.  Round  the 
waist  is  a  belt,  in  which  is  stuck  a  large  butcher- 
knife  in  a  sheath  of  buffalo-hide,  made  fast  to 
the  belt  by  a  chain  or  guard  of  st.eel;  which  also 
supports  a  little  buckskin  case  containing  a  whet- 
stone. A  tomahawk  is  also  often  added;  and, 
of  course,  a  long  heavy  rifle  is  part  and  parcel  of 
his  equipment.  I  had  nearly  forgotten  the 
pipe-holder,  which  hangs  round  his  neck,  and  is 
generally  a  gage  d'amour,  and  a  triumph  of 
squaw  workmanship,  in  shape  of  a  heart, 
garnished  with  beads  and  porcupine-quills. 

Thus  provided,  and  having  determined  the 
locality  of  his  trapping-ground,  he  starts  to  the 
mountains,  sometimes  alone,  sometimes  with 
three  or  four  in  company,  as  soon  as  the  break- 
ing up  of  the  ice  allows  him  to  commence 

*  These  fringes  were  not  merely  ornamental;  they  supplied 
"whangs"  in  lack  of  string.  (Ed.) 


154     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

operations.  Arrived  on  his  hunting-grounds,  he 
follows  the  creeks  and  streams,  keeping  a  sharp 
look-out  for  "sign."  If  he  sees  a  prostrate 
cottonwood  tree,  he  examines  it  to  discover  if 
it  be  the  work  of  beaver — whether  "thrown" 
for  the  purpose  of  food,  or  to  dam  the  stream. 
The  track  of  the  beaver  on  the  mud  or  sand 
under  the  bank  is  also  examined;  and  if  the 
"sign"  be  fresh,  he  sets  his  trap  in  the  run  of 
the  animal,  hiding  it  under  water,  and  attaching 
it  by  a  stout  chain  to  a  picket  driven  in  the  bank, 
or  to  a  bush  or  tree.  A  "float-stick"  is  made 
fast  to  the  trap  by  a  cord  a  few  feet  long,  which, 
if  the  animal  carry  away  the  trap,  floats  on  the 
water  and  points  out  its  position.  The  trap 
is  baited  with  the  "medicine,"  an  oily  substance 
obtained  from  a  gland  in  the  scrotum  of  the 
beaver,  but  distinct  from  the  testes.  A  stick  is 
dipped  into  this  and  planted  over  the  trap;  and 
the  beaver,  attracted  by  the  smell,  and  wishing 
a  close  inspection,  very  foolishly  puts  his  leg 
into  the  trap,  and  is  a  "gone  beaver." 

When  a  lodge  is  discovered,  the  trap  is  set 
at  the  edge  of  the  dam,  at  the  point  where  the 
animal  passes  from  deep  to  shoal  water,  and 
always  under  water.  Early  in  the  morning  the 
hunter  mounts  his  mule  and  examines  the  traps. 
The  captured  animals  are  skinned,  and  the  tails, 
which  are  a  great  dainty,  carefully  packed  into 
camp.  The  skin  is  then  stretched  over  a  hoop  or 


THE  BEAVER  AND  HIS  TRAPPER          155 

framework  of  osier-twigs,  and  is  allowed  to 
dry,  the  flesh  and  fatty  substance  being  care- 
fully scraped  (grained).  When  dry,  it  is  folded 
into  a  square  sheet,  the  fur  turned  inwards,  and 
the  bundle,  containing  about  ten  to  twenty 
skins,  tightly  pressed  and  corded,  and  is  ready 
for  transportation. 

During  the  hunt,  regardless  of  Indian  vicinity, 
the  fearless  trapper  wanders  far  and  near  in 
search  of  "sign."  His  nerves  must  ever  be  in 
a  state  of  tension,  and  his  mind  ever  present  at 
his  call.  His  eagle  eye  sweeps  round  the  country, 
and  in  an  instant  detects  any  foreign  appear- 
ance. A  turned  leaf,  a  blade  of  grass  pressed 
down,  the  uneasiness  of  the  wild  animals,  the 
flight  of  birds,  are  all  paragraphs  to  him  written 
in  nature's  legible  hand  and  plainest  language. 
All  the  wits  of  the  subtle  savage  are  called  into 
play  to  gain  an  advantage  over  the  wily  woods- 
man; but  with  the  natural  instinct  of  primitive 
man,  the  white  hunter  has  the  advantages  of  a 
civilized  mind,  and,  thus  provided,  seldom  fails 
to  outwit,  under  equal  advantages,  the  cunning 
savage. 

Sometimes,  following  on  his  trail,  the  Indian 
watches  him  set  his  traps  on  a  shrub-belted 
stream,  and,  passing  up  the  bed,  like  Bruce  of 
old,  so  that  he  may  leave  no  track,  he  lies 
in  wait  in  the  bushes  until  the  hunter  comes  to 
examine  his  carefully-set  traps.  Then,  waiting 


156     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

until  he  approaches  his  ambushment  within  a 
few  feet,  whiz  flies  the  home-drawn  arrow,  never 
failing  at  such  close  quarters  to  bring  the  victim 
to  the  ground.  For  one  white  scalp,  however, 
that  dangles  in  the  smoke  of  an  Indian's  lodge, 
a  dozen  red  ones,  at  the  end  of  the  hunt,  orna- 
ment the  camp-fires  of  the  rendezvous. 

At  a  certain  time,  when  the  hunt  is  over,  or 
they  have  loaded  their  pack-animals,  the 
trappers  proceed  to  the  "rendezvous,"  the 
locality  of  which  has  been  previously  agreed 
upon;  and  here  the  traders  and  agents  of  the 
fur  companies  await  them,  with  such  assortment 
of  goods  as  their  hardy  customers  may  require, 
including  generally  a  fair  supply  of  alcohol. 
The  trappers  drop  in  singly  and  in  small  bands, 
bringing  their  packs  of  beaver  to  this  mountain 
market,  not  unfrequently  to  the  value  of  a 
thousand  dollars  each,  the  produce  of  one  hunt. 
The  dissipation  of  the  "rendezvous,"  however, 
soon  turns  the  trapper's  pocket  inside  out. 
The  goods  brought  by  the  traders,  although 
of  the  most  inferior  quality,  are  sold  at  enormous 
prices: — Coffee,  twenty  and  thirty  shillings  a 
pint-cup,  which  is  the  usual  measure;  tobacco 
fetches  ten  and  fifteen  shillings  a  plug;  alcohol, 
from  twenty  to  fifty  shillings  a  pint;  gunpowder, 
sixteen  shillings  a  pint-cup;  and  all  other 
articles  at  proportionally  exorbitant  prices. 

The  "beaver"  is  purchased  at  from  two  to  eight 


THE  BEAVER  AND  HIS  TRAPPER         157 

dollars  per  pound;  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
alone  buying  it  by  the  pluie,  or  "plew,"  that  is, 
the  whole  skin,  giving  a  certain  price  for  skins, 
whether  of  old  beaver  or  "kittens." 

The  rendezvous  is  one  continued  scene  of 
drunkenness,  gambling,  and  brawling  and  fight- 
ing, as  long  as  the  money  and  credit  of  the 
trappers  last.  Seated,  Indian  fashion,  round 
the  fires,  with  a  blanket  spread  before  them, 
groups  are  seen  with  their  decks  of  cards, 
playing  at  euchre,  poker,  and  seven-up,  the 
regular  mountain-games.  The  stakes  are 
"beaver,"  which  here  is  current  coin;  and  when 
the  fur  is  gone,  their  horses,  mules,  rifles,  and 
shirts,  hunting-packs,  and  breeches,  are  staked. 
Daring  gamblers  make  the  rounds  of  the  camp, 
challenging  each  other  to  play  for  the  trapper's 
highest  stake, — his  horse,  his  squaw,  (if  he  have 
one)  and,  as  once  happened,  his  scalp.  "There 
goes  hoss  and  beaver!"  is  the  mountain  expres- 
sion when  any  great  loss  is  sustained;  and, 
sooner  or  later,  "hoss  and  beaver"  invariably 
find  their  way  into  the  insatiable  pockets  of 
the  traders.  A  trapper  often  squanders  the 
produce  of  his  hunt,  amounting  to  hundreds 
of  dollars,  in  a  couple  of  hours;  and,  supplied  on 
credit  with  another  equipment,  leaves  the 
rendezvous  for  another  expedition,  which  has 
the  same  result  time  after  time;  although  one 
tolerably  successful  hunt  would  enable  him  to 


158     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

return  to  the  settlements  and  civilized  life, 
with  an  ample  sum  to  purchase  and  stock  a 
farm,  and  enjoy  himself  in  ease  and  comfort 
the  remainder  of  his  days. 

An  old  trapper,  a  French  Canadian,  assured 
me  that  he  had  received  fifteen  thousand 
dollars  for  beaver  during  a  sojourn  of  twenty 
years  in  the  mountains.  Every  year  he  resolved 
in  his  mind  to  return  to  Canada,  and,  with  this 
object,  always  converted  his  fur  into  cash;  but 
a  fortnight  at  the  "rendezvous"  always  cleaned 
him  out,  and,  at  the  end  of  twenty  years,  he 
had  not  even  credit  sufficient  to  buy  a  pound  of 
powder. 

These  annual  gatherings  are  often  the  scene 
of  bloody  duels,  for  over  their  cups  and  cards 
no  men  are  more  quarrelsome  than  your 
mountaineers.  Rifles,  at  twenty  paces,  settle 
all  differences,  and,  as  may  be  imagined,  the 
fall  of  one  or  other  of  the  combatants  is  certain, 
or,  as  sometimes  happens,  both  fall  to  the  word 
"fire." 

A  day  or  two  after  my  return  from  the 
mountain,  I  was  out  in  search  of  my  animals 
along  the  river-bottom,  when  I  met  a  war- 
party  of  Arapahos  loping  along  on  foot  in 
Indian  file.  It  was  the  same  party  who  had 
been  in  the  vicinity  of  our  camp  on  Fontaine-qui- 
bouille,  and  was  led  by  a  chief  called  Coxo, 
"the  Game  Leg."  They  were  all  painted  and 


THE  BEAVER  AND  HIS  TRAPPER         159 

armed  for  war,  carrying  bows  and  well-filled 
quivers,  war-clubs  and  lances,  and  some  had 
guns  in  deerskin  covers.  They  were  all  naked 
to  the  waist,  a  single  buffalo  robe  being  thrown 
over  them,  and  from  his  belt  each  one  had  a 
lariat  or  rope  of  hide  to  secure  the  animals 
stolen  in  the  expedition.  They  were  returning 
without  a  scalp,  having  found  the  Yutas  "not 
at  home;"  and  this  was  considered  a  sign  by  the 
hunters  that  they  would  not  be  scrupulous  in 
"raising  some  hair,"  if  they  caught  a  straggler 
far  from  camp.  However  their  present  visit 
was  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  some  meat, 
of  which  they  stood  in  need,  as  to  reach  their 
village  they  had  to  cross  a  country  destitute  of 
game.  They  were  all  remarkably  fine  young 
men,  and  perfectly  cleanly  in  their  persons; 
indeed,  when  on  the  war-path,  more  than  or- 
dinary care  is  taken  to  adorn  the  body,  and  the 
process  of  painting  occupies  considerable  time 
and  attention.  The  Arapahos  do  not  shave 
their  heads,  as  do  the  Pawnees,  Caws,  and 
Osages,  merely  braiding  the  center  or  scalp 
lock,  and  decorating  it  with  a  gay  ribbon  or 
feather  of  the  war-eagle. 

This  war-party  was  twenty-one  in  number, 
the  oldest,  with  the  exception  of  the  chief, 
being  under  thirty,  and  not  one  of  them  was 
less  than  five  feet  eight  inches  in  height.  In 
this  they  differ  from  their  neighbors  the  Yutas 


160     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

and  Comanches,  who  are  of  small  stature;  the 
latter  especially,  when  off  their  horses,  present- 
ing small  ungainly  figures,  with  legs  crooked  by 
constant  riding,  and  limbs  exhibiting  but  little 
muscular  development.  Not  one  of  this  Arapaho 
band  but  could  have  sat  as  a  model  for  an 
Apollo.  During  their  stay  the  animals  were  all 
collected  and  corralled,  as  their  penchant  for 
horse-flesh,  it  was  thought  likely,  might  lead 
some  of  the  young  men  to  appropriate  a  horse 
or  mule. 

Each  tribe  of  Prairie  Indians  has  a  different 
method  of  making  moccasins,  so  that  any  one, 
acquainted  with  the  various  fashions,  is  at  no 
loss  to  know  the  nation  to  which  any  particular 
one  belongs  whom  he  may  happen  to  meet. 
The  Arapahos  and  Cheyennes  use  a  "shoe" 
moccasin,  that  is,  one  which  reaches  no  higher 
than  the  instep,  and  wants  the  upper  side- 
flaps  which  moccasins  usually  have.  I  always 
used  Chippewa  moccasins,  which  differ  from 
those  of  the  Prairie  make,  by  the  seam  being 
made  up  the  center  of  the  foot  to  the  leg,  and 
puckered  into  plaits.  This,  which  is  the  true 
fashion  of  the  "Forest  Indian,"  (who,  by  the 
by,  is  as  distinct  in  character  and  appearance 
from  him  of  the  "plains"  as  a  bear  from  a 
bluebottle)  attracted  the  attention  of  the 
Arapaho  warriors,  and  caused  a  lively  discus- 
sion amongst  themselves,  owing  to  the  novelty 


THE  BEAVER  AND  HIS  TRAPPER         161 

of  the  manufacture.  They  all  surrounded  me, 
and  each  examined  and  felt  carefully  the  un- 
usual chaussure. 

Ti-yah!  was  the  universal  exclamation  of 
astonishment.  The  old  chief  was  the  last  to 
approach,  and,  after  a  minute  examination,  he 
drew  himself  up,  and  explained  to  them,  as  I 
perfectly  understood  by  his  gestures,  that  the 
people  who  made  those  moccasins  lived  far,  far 
away  from  the  sun,  where  the  snow  lay  deep 
on  the  ground,  and  where  the  night  was  illu- 
minated by  the  mystery  fire  (the  aurora  bo- 
realis),  which  he  had  seen,  years  ago,  far  to  the 
north. 

The  vicinity  of  the  "pueblo"  affording  no 
pasture,  my  cavallada  had  undertaken  a  voyage 
of  discovery  in  search  of  grass,  and  had  found  a 
small  valley  up  the  bed  of  a  dry  creek,  in  which 
grew  an  abundance  of  bunch-grass.  As,  however, 
the  river  was  fast  frozen,  they  were  unable  to 
find  a  watering-place  themselves,  and  one  day 
made  their  appearance  in  camp,  evidently  for 
the  purpose  of  being  conducted  to  water;  I 
therefore  led  them  to  the  river  and  broke  a 
large  hole,  which  they  invariably  resorted  to 
every  morning  and  evening  at  the  same  hour, 
although  it  was  three  or  four  miles  from  their 
feeding-place.  This  enabled  me  to  catch  them 
whenever  I  required,  for  at  a  certain  time  I  had 
only  to  go  to  this  hole,  and  I  never  failed  to  see 


162     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

them  approaching  leisurely,  the  mules  following 
the  horse  in  Indian  file,  and  always  along  the 
same  trail  which  they  had  made  in  the  snow. 

The  grass,  although  to  all  appearance  per- 
fectly withered,  still  retained  considerable 
nourishment,  and  the  mules  improved  fast  in 
flesh.  Panchito,  however,  fell  off  in  condition 
as  the  others  improved,  more,  I  think,  from  the 
severity  of  the  winter  than  the  scarcity  of  grass. 
When  they  had  cleared  the  valley  they  sought 
a  pasture  still  farther  off,  and,  after  losing  sight 
of  them  for  fifteen  days,  I  found  them  fifteen 
miles  from  the  river,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
in  a  prairie  in  which  was  a  pool  of  water  (which 
prevented  their  having  recourse  to  the  water- 
hole  I  had  made  for  them),  and  where  was 
plenty  of  buffalo-grass. 

It  was  now  always  a  day's  work  for  me  to 
catch  my  hunting-mule,  and  the  animals  were 
becoming  so  wild  that  I  often  returned  without 
effecting  the  capture  at  all,  my  only  chance 
being  to  chase  them  on  horseback  and  lasso  the 
horse,  when  they  all  followed  as  quiet  as  lambs, 
never  caring  to  forsake  their  old  companion. 

The  weather  in  January,  February,  and 
March  [1847]  was  exceedingly  severe.  Storms 
of  sleet  and  snow,  invariably  accompanied  by 
hurricanes  of  wind,  were  of  daily  occurrence, 
but  the  snow  rarely  remained  more  than  thirty 
hours  on  the  ground,  an  hour  or  two  of  the 


THE  BEAVER  AND  HIS  TRAPPER         163 

meridian  sun  being  sufficient  to  cause  it  to  dis- 
appear. On  the  17th  of  March  the  ice  in  the 
Arkansa  "moved"  for  the  first  time,  and  the 
next  day  it  was  entirely  broken  up,  and  the 
arrival  of  spring-weather  was  confidently  ex- 
pected. However,  it  froze  once  more  in  a  few 
days  as  firm  as  ever,  and  the  weather  became 
colder  than  before,  with  heavy  snow-storms 
and  hard  gales  of  wind.  After  this  succeeded  a 
spell  of  fine  weather,  and  about  the  24th  the 
ice  moved  bodily  away,  and  the  river  was  clear 
from  that  date,  the  edges  of  the  water  only 
being  frozen  in  the  morning.  Geese  now  made 
their  appearance  in  considerable  numbers,  and 
afforded  an  agreeable  variety  to  our  perpetual 
venison  and  tough  bull-meat,  as  well  as  good 
sport  in  shooting  them  with  rifles.  The  "blue 
bird"  followed  the  goose;  and  when  the  first 
robin  was  seen,  the  hunters  pronounced  the 
winter  at  an  end. 

When  the  river  was  clear  of  ice  I  tried  my 
luck  with  the  fish,  and  in  ten  minutes  pulled  out  as 
many  trout,  hickory  shad,  and  suckers,  but  from 
that  time  never  succeeded  in  getting  a  nibble. 
The  hunters  accounted  for  this  by  saying  that 
the  fish  migrate  up  the  stream  as  soon  as  the  ice 
breaks,  seeking  the  deep  holes  and  bends  of  its 
upper  waters,  and  that  my  first  piscatory  attempt 
was  in  the  very  nick  of  time,  when  a  shoal  was 
passing  up  for  the  first  time  after  the  thaw. 


1 64     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  March  I  removed 
my  animals  from  their  pasture,  which  was 
getting  dry  and  rotten,  and  took  them  up 
Fontaine-qui-bouille  into  the  mountains,  where 
the  grass  is  of  better  quality  and  more  abundant. 
On  the  Arkansa  and  the  neighboring  prairies 
not  a  vestige  of  spring  vegetation  yet  presented 
itself,  but  nearer  the  mountains  the  grass  was 
beginning  to  shoot.  It  is  a  curious  fact  that  the 
young  blade  of  the  buffalo  and  bunch  grass 
pierces  its  way  through  the  old  one,  which  com- 
pletely envelops  and  protects  the  tender  blade 
from  the  nipping  frosts  of  spring,  and  thus 
also  the  weakening  effects  of  feeding  on  the 
young  grass  are  rendered  less  injurious  to  horses 
and  mules,  since  they  are  obliged  to  eat  the 
old  together  with  the  young  shoots. 

The  farther  I  advanced  up  the  creek,  and  the 
nearer  the  mountains,  the  more  forward  was 
the  vegetation,  although  even  here  in  its  earliest 
stage.  The  bunch-grass  was  getting  green  at  the 
roots,  and  the  absinthe  and  greasewood  were 
throwing  out  their  buds.  As  yet,  however,  the 
cottonwoods  and  the  larger  trees  in  the  bottom 
showed  no  signs  of  leaf,  and  the  currant  and 
cherry  bushes  still  looked  dry  and  sapless.  The 
thickets,  however,  were  filled  with  birds,  and 
resounded  with  their  songs,  and  the  plains  were 
alive  with  the  prairie-dogs,  busy  in  repairing 
their  houses  and  barking  lustily  as  I  rode 


THE  BEAVER  AND  HIS  TRAPPER         165 

through  their  towns.  Turkeys,  too,  were  calling 
in  the  timber,  and  the  boom  of  the  prairie- 
fowl,  at  rise  and  set  of  sun,  was  heard  on  every 
side.  The  snow  had  entirely  disappeared  from 
the  plains,  but  Pike's  Peak  and  the  mountains 
were  still  clad  in  white;  the  latter,  being  some- 
times clear  of  snow  and  looking  dark  and 
sombre,  would  for  an  hour  or  two  be  hidden  by 
a  curtain  of  clouds,  which  rising  displayed  the 
mountains,  before  black  and  furrowed,  now 
white  and  smooth  with  their  snowy  mantle. 

On  my  way  I  met  a  band  of  hunters  who  had 
been  driven  in  by  a  war-party  of  Arapahos,  who 
were  encamped  on  the  eastern  fork  of  the 
Fontaine-qui-bouille.  They  strongly  urged  me 
to  return,  as,  being  alone,  I  could  not  fail  to 
be  robbed  of  my  animals,  if  not  killed  myself. 
However,  in  pursuance  of  my  fixed  rule,  never 
to  stop  on  account  of  Indians,  I  proceeded  up 
the  river,  and  about  fifty  miles  from  the  mouth 
encamped  on  the  first  fork,  where  was  an  abund- 
ance of  deer  and  antelope.  In  the  timber  on 
the  banks  of  the  creek  I  erected  a  little  shanty, 
covering  it  with  the  bark  of  the  prostrate 
trees  which  strewed  the  ground,  and  picketing 
my  animals  at  night  in  a  little  prairie  within 
sight,  where  they  luxuriated  on  plenty  of 
buffalo-grass.  Here  I  remained  for  a  day  or 
two  hunting  in  the  mountain,  leaving  my 
cavallada  to  take  care  of  themselves,  and  at  the 


166     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

mercy  of  the  Arapahos  should  they  discover 
them.  At  night  I  returned  to  camp,  made  a 
fire,  and  cooked  an  appola*  of  antelope-meat, 
and  enjoyed  my  solitary  pipe  after  supper  with 
as  much  relish  as  if  I  was  in  a  divan,  and  lay 
down  on  my  blanket,  serenaded  by  packs  of 
hungry  wolves,  and  sleeping  as  soundly  as  if 
there  were  no  such  people  in  existence  as  Ara- 
pahoes,  merely  waking  now  and  then  and 
raising  my  hand  to  the  top  of  my  head,  to 
assure  myself  that  my  top-knot  was  in  its  place. 
The  next  day  I  moved  up  the  main  fork,  on 
which  I  had  been  directed  by  the  hunters  to 
proceed,  in  order  to  visit  the  far-famed  springs 
from  which  the  creek  takes  its  name.  The  valley 
of  the  upper  waters  is  very  picturesque:  many 
mountain-streams  course  through  it,  a  narrow 
line  of  timber  skirting  their  banks.  On  the 
western  side  the  rugged  mountains  frown 
overhead,  and  rugged  canons  filled  with  pine 
and  cedar  gape  into  the  plain.  At  the  head  of 
the  valley,  the  ground  is  much  broken  up 
into  gullies  and  ravines  where  it  enters  the 
mountain-spurs,  with  topes  [groves]  of  pine 
and  cedar  scattered  here  and  there,  and  masses 
of  rock  tossed  about  in  wild  confusion.  On 
entering  the  broken  ground  the  creek  turns 
more  to  the  westward,  and  passes  by  two 

*  Alternate  strips  of  fat  and  lean  meat  roasted  on  a  sharpened 
stick  before  the  fire.     (Ed.) 


THE  BEAVER  AND  HIS  TRAPPER         167 

remarkable  buttes*  of  a  red  conglomerate, 
which  appear  at  a  distance  like  tablets  cut  in 
the  mountain-side.  The  eastern  fork  skirts  the 
base  of  the  range,  coming  from  the  ridge  called 
"The  Divide,"  which  separates  the  waters  of 
the  Platte  and  Arkansa;  and  between  the  main 
stream  and  this  branch,  running  north  and 
south,  is  a  limestone  ledge  which  forms  the 
western  wall  of  the  lateral  valley  running  at 
right  angles  from  that  of  the  Fontaine-qui- 
bouille.  The  uplands  are  clothed  with  cedar  and 
dwarf  oak,  the  bottoms  of  the  river  with 
cottonwood,  quaking-asp,  oak,  ash,  and  box- 
alder,  and  a  thick  undergrowth  of  cherry  and 
currant  bushes. 

I  followed  a  very  good  lodge  pole-trail,  which 
struck  the  creek  before  entering  the  broken 
ground,  being  that  used  by  the  Yutas  and 
Arapahos  on  their  way  to  the  Bayou  Salado. 
Here  the  valley  narrowed  considerably,  and, 
turning  an  angle  with  the  creek,  I  was  at  once 
shut  in  by  mountains  and  elevated  ridges, 
which  rose  on  each  side  the  stream.  This  was 
now  a  rapid  torrent,  tumbling  over  rocks  and 
stones,  and  fringed  with  oak  and  a  shrubbery 
of  brush.  A  few  miles  on,  the  canon  opened  out 
into  a  little  shelving  glade;  and  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  stream,  and  raised  several  feet 

*Any  prominent  rock  or  bluff  is  called  a  butte  (pronounced 
biute)  by  the  hunters  and  trappers. 


168     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

above  it,  was  a  flat  white  rock  in  which  was  a 
round  hole,  where  one  of  the  celebrated  springs 
hissed  and  bubbled  with  its  escaping  gas.  I 
had  been  cautioned  against  drinking  this,  being 
directed  to  follow  the  stream  a  few  yards  to 
another,  which  is  the  true  soda-spring. 

Before  doing  this,  however,  I  unpacked  the 
mule  and  took  the  saddle  from  Panchito, 
piling  my  saddle  and  meat  on  the  rock.  The 
animals,  as  soon  as  I  left  them  free,  smelt  the 
white  rock,  and  instantly  commenced  licking 
and  scraping  with  their  teeth  with  the  greatest 
eagerness.  At  last  the  horse  approached  the 
spring,  and,  burying  his  nose  deep  in  the  clear 
water,  drank  greedily.  The  mules  appeared 
at  first  to  fear  the  bubbling  of  the  gas,  and 
smelt  and  retreated  two  or  three  times  before 
they  mustered  courage  to  take  a  draught;  but 
when  they  had  once  tasted  the  water  I  thought 
they  would  have  burst  themselves.  For  hours 
they  paid  no  attention  to  the  grass,  continuing 
to  lick  the  rock  and  constantly  returning  to  the 
spring  to  drink.  For  myself,  I  had  not  only 
abstained  from  drinking  that  day,  but,  with 
the  aid  of  a  handful  of  salt  which  I  had  brought 
with  me  for  the  purpose,  had  so  highly  seasoned 
my  breakfast  of  venison,  that  I  was  in  a  most 
satisfactory  state  of  thirst.  I  therefore  at 
once  proceeded  to  the  other  spring,  and  found 
it  about  forty  yards  from  the  first,  but  im- 


THE  BEAVER  AND  HIS  TRAPPER         169 

mediately  above  the  river,  issuing  from  a  little 
basin  in  the  flat  white  rock,  and  trickling  over 
the  edge  into  the  stream.  The  escape  of  gas  in 
this  was  much  stronger  than  in  the  other,  and 
was  similar  to  water  boiling  smartly. 

I  had  provided  myself  with  a  tin  cup  holding 
about  a  pint;  but,  before  dipping  it  in,  I  divested 
myself  of  my  pouch  and  belt,  and  sat  down  in 
order  to  enjoy  the  draught  at  my  leisure.  I 
was  half  dead  with  thirst;  and,  tucking  up  the 
sleeves  of  my  hunting-shirt,  I  dipped  the  cup 
into  the  midst  of  the  bubbles,  and  raised  it 
hissing  and  sparkling  to  my  lips.  Such  a 
draught!  Three  times,  without  drawing  a 
breath,  was  it  replenished  and  emptied,  almost 
blowing  up  the  roof  of  my  mouth  with  its 
effervescence.  It  was  equal  to  the  very  best 
soda-water,  but  possesses  that  fresh,  natural 
flavor,  which  manufactured  water  cannot  im- 
part. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

AMONG  THE  SPRINGS 

THE  Indians  regard  with  awe  the  "medi- 
cine" waters  of  these  fountains,  as  being 
the  abode  of  a  spirit  who  breathes  through 
the  transparent  water,  and  thus,  by  his  exhala- 
tions, causes  the  perturbation  of  its  surface. 
The  Arapahos,  especially,  attribute  to  this 
water-god  the  power  of  ordaining  the  success  or 
mis-carriage  of  their  war-expeditions;  and  as 
their  braves  pass  often  by  the  mysterious 
springs,  when  in  search  of  their  hereditary 
enemies  the  Yutas,  in  the  "Valley  of  Salt," 
they  never  fail  to  bestow  their  votive  offerings 
upon  the  water-sprite,  in  order  to  propitiate 
the  "Manitou"  of  the  fountain,  and  ensure  a 
fortunate  issue  to  their  "path  of  war." 

Thus  at  the  time  of  my  visit  the  basin  of  the 
spring  was  filled  with  beads  and  wampum,  and 
pieces  of  red  cloth  and  knives,  whilst  the  sur- 
rounding trees  were  hung  with  strips  of  deer- 
skin, cloth,  and  mocassins,  to  which,  had  they 
been  serviceable,  I  would  most  sacrilegiously 
have  helped  myself.  The  "sign,"  too,  round  the 
spring,  plainly  showed  that  here  a  war-dance 
170 


AMONG  THE  SPRINGS  171 

had  been  executed  by  the  braves;  and  I  was  not 
a  little  pleased  to  find  that  they  had  already 
been  here,  and  were  not  likely  to  return  the 
same  way;  but  in  this  supposition  I  was  quite 
astray. 

This  country  was  once  possessed  by  the 
Shos-shone  or  Snake  Indians,  of  whom  the 
Comanches  of  the  plains  are  a  branch;  and 
although  many  hundred  miles  now  divide  their 
hunting-grounds,  they  were  once,  if  not  the 
same  people,  tribes  of  the  same  grand  nation. 
They  still,  however,  retain  a  common  lan- 
guage; and  there  is  great  analogy  in  many  of 
their  religious  rites  and  legendary  tales,  which 
proves  that  at  least  a  very  close  alliance  must 
at  one  period  have  bound  the  two  tribes  to- 
gether. They  are  even  now  the  two  most 
powerful  nations,  hi  point  of  numbers,  of  all 
the  tribes  of  western  Indians;  the  Comanche 
ruling  supreme  on  the  eastern  plains,  as  the 
Shos-shones  are  the  dominant  power  in  the 
country  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  in 
the  mountains  themselves.  A  branch  of  the 
latter  is  the  tribe  of  Tlamath  Indians,  the  most 
warlike  of  the  western  tribes;  as  also  the  Yutas, 
who  may  be  said  to  connect  them  with  the 
nation  of  Comanche. 

Numerically,  the  Snakes  are  supposed  to  be 
the  most  powerful  of  any  Indian  nation  in 
existence. 


172     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

The  Snakes,  who,  in  common  with  all  In- 
dians, possess  hereditary  legends  to  account  for 
all  natural  phenomena,  or  any  extraordinary 
occurrences  which  are  beyond  their  ken  or 
comprehension,  have  of  course  their  legendary 
version  of  the  causes  which  created,  in  the 
midst  of  their  hunting-grounds,  these  two 
springs  of  sweet  and  bitter  water;  which  are 
also  intimately  connected  with  the  cause  of 
separation  between  the  tribes  of  "Comanche" 
and  the  "Snake."  Thus  runs  the  legend: — , 

Many  hundreds  of  winters  ago,  when  the 
cottonwoods  on  the  Big  River  were  no  higher 
than  an  arrow,  and  the  red  men,  who  hunted 
the  buffalo  on  the  plains,  all  spoke  the  same 
language,  and  the  pipe  of  peace  breathed  its 
social  cloud  of  kinnik-kinnek  whenever  two 
parties  of  hunters  met  on  the  boundless  plains — 
when,  with  hunting-grounds  and  game  of  every 
kind  in  the  greatest  abundance,  no  nation  dug 
up  the  hatchet  with  another  because  one  of  its 
hunters  followed  the  game  into  their  bounds, 
but,  on  the  contrary,  loaded  for  him  his  back 
with  choice  and  fattest  meat,  and  ever  proffered 
the  soothing  pipe  before  the  stranger,  with 
well-filled  belly,  left  the  village, — it  happened 
that  two  hunters  of  different  nations  met  one 
day  on  a  small  rivulet,  where  both  had  repaired 
to  quench  their  thirst.  A  little  stream  of  water, 
rising  from  a  spring  on  a  rock  within  a  few  feet 


AMONG  THE  SPRINGS  173 

of  the  bank,  trickled  over  it,  and  fell  splashing 
into  the  river.  To  this  the  hunters  repaired; and 
whilst  one  sought  the  spring  itself,  where  the 
water,  cold  and  clear,  reflected  on  its  surface  the 
image  of  the  surrounding  scenery,  the  other, 
tired  by  his  exertions  in  the  chase,  threw  him- 
self at  once  to  the  ground,  and  plunged  his  face 
into  the  running  stream. 

The  latter  had  been  unsuccessful  in  the 
chase,  and  perhaps  his  bad  fortune,  and  the 
sight  of  the  fat  deer  which  the  other  hunter 
threw  from  his  back  before  he  drank  at  the 
crystal  spring,  caused  a  feeling  of  jealousy  and 
ill-humor  to  take  possession  of  his  mind.  The 
other,  on  the  contrary,  before  he  satisfied  his 
thirst,  raised  in  the  hollow  of  his  hand  a  portion 
of  the  water,  and,  lifting  it  towards  the  sun, 
reversed  his  hand,  and  allowed  it  to  fall  upon 
the  ground, — a  libation  to  the  Great  Spirit  who 
had  vouchsafed  him  a  successful  hunt,  and  the 
blessing  of  the  refreshing  water  with  which  he 
was  about  to  quench  his  thirst. 

Seeing  this,  and  being  reminded  that  he  had 
neglected  the  usual  offering,  only  increased  the 
feeling  of  envy  and  annoyance  which  the  un- 
successful hunter  permitted  to  get  the  mastery 
of  his  heart;  and  the  Evil  Spirit  at  that  moment 
entering  his  body,  his  temper  fairly  flew  away,  and 
he  sought  some  pretence  by  which  to  provoke 
a  quarrel  with  the  stranger  Indian  at  the  spring. 


174     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

"Why  does  a  stranger,"  he  asked,  rising 
from  the  stream  at  the  same  time,  "drink  at 
the  spring-head,  when  one  to  whom  the  fountain 
belongs  contents  himself  with  the  water  that 
runs  from  it?" 

"The  Great  Spirit  places  the  cool  water  at 
the  spring,"  answered  the  other  hunter,  "that 
his  children  may  drink  it  pure  and  undefiled. 
The  running  water  is  for  the  beasts  which  scour 
the  plains.  Au-sa-qua  is  a  chief  of  the  Shos- 
shone:  he  drinks  at  the  head- water." 

"The  Shos-shone  is  but  a  tribe  of  the  Co- 
manche,"  returned  the  other:  "Waco-mish 
leads  the  grand  nation.  Why  does  a  Shos-shone 
dare  to  drink  above  him?" 

"He  has  said  it.  The  Shos-shone  drinks  at 
the  spring-head;  other  nations  of  the  stream 
which  runs  into  the  fields.  Au-sa-qua  is  chief 
of  his  nation.  The  Comanche  are  brothers.  Let 
them  both  drink  of  the  same  water." 

"The  Shos-shone  pays  tribute  to  the  Co- 
manche. Waco-mish  leads  that  nation  to  war. 
Waco-mish  is  chief  of  the  Shos-shone,  as  he  is  of 
his  own  people." 

"Waco-mish  lies;  his  tongue  is  forked  like 
the  rattlesnake's;  his  heart  is  black  as  the 
Misho-tunga  (bad  spirit).  When  the  Manitou 
made  his  children,  whether  Shos-shone  or 
Comanche,  Arapaho,  Shi-an,  or  Pa-ne,  he  gave 
them  buffalo  to  eat,  and  the  pure  water  of  the 


AMONG  THE  SPRINGS  175 

fountain  to  quench  their  thirst.  He  said  not 
to  one,  Drink  here,  and  to  another,  Drink 
there;  but  gave  the  crystal  spring  to  all,  that 
all  might  drink." 

Waco-mish  almost  burst  with  rage  as  the 
other  spoke;  but  his  coward  heart  alone  pre- 
vented him  from  provoking  an  encounter  with 
the  calm  Shos-shone.  He,  made  thirsty  by  the 
words  he  had  spoken — for  the  red  man  is  ever 
sparing  of  his  tongue — again  stooped  down  to 
the  spring  to  quench  his  thirst,  when  the  subtle 
warrior  of  the  Comanche  suddenly  threw  him- 
self upon  the  kneeling  hunter,  and,  forcing  his 
head  into  the  bubbling  water,  held  him  down 
with  all  his  strength,  until  his  victim  no  longer 
struggled,  his  stiffened  limbs  relaxed,  and  he 
fell  forward  over  the  spring,  drowned  and  dead. 

Over  the  body  stood  the  murderer,  and  no 
sooner  was  the  deed  of  blood  consummated  than 
bitter  remorse  took  possession  of  his  mind, 
where  before  had  reigned  the  fiercest  passion 
and  vindictive  hate.  With  hands  clasped  to  his 
forehead,  he  stood  transfixed  with  horror, 
intently  gazing  on  his  victim,  whose  head  still 
remained  immersed  in  the  fountain.  Mechani- 
cally he  dragged  the  body  a  few  paces  from  the 
water,  which,  as  soon  as  the  head  of  the  dead 
Indian  was  withdrawn,  the  Comanche  saw 
suddenly  and  strangely  disturbed.  Bubbles 
sprang  up  from  the  bottom,  and,  rising  to  the 


176     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

surface,  escaped  in  hissing  gas.  A  thin  vapory 
cloud  arose,  and,  gradually  dissolving,  displayed 
to  the  eyes  of  the  trembling  murderer  the 
figure  of  an  aged  Indian,  whose  long  snowy  hair 
and  venerable  beard,  blown  aside  by  a  gentle 
air  from  his  breast,  discovered  the  well-known 
totem  of  the  great  Wan-kan-aga,  the  father  of 
the  Comanche  and  Sho-shone  nation,  whom  the 
tradition  of  the  tribe,  handed  down  by  skilfull 
hieroglyphics,  almost  deified  for  the  good 
actions  and  deeds  of  bravery  this  famous 
warrior  had  performed  when  on  earth. 

Stretching  out  a  war-club  towards  the  affright- 
ed murderer,  the  figure  thus  addressed  him: 

"Accursed  of  my  tribe!  this  day  thou  hast 
severed  the  link  between  the  mightiest  nations 
of  the  world,  while  the  blood  of  the  brave 
Shos-shone  cries  to  the  Manitou  for  vengeance. 
May  the  water  of  thy  tribe  be  rank  and  bitter 
in  their  throats !"  Thus  saying,  and  swinging  his 
ponderous  war-club  (made  from  the  elk's  horn) 
round  his  head,  he  dashed  out  the  brains  of  the 
Comanche,  who  fell  headlong  into  the  spring, 
which,  from  that  day  to  the  present  moment, 
remains  rank  and  nauseous,  so  that  not  even 
when  half  dead  with  thirst,  can  one  drink  the 
foul  water  of  that  spring. 

The  good  Wan-kan-aga,  however,  to  per- 
petuate the  memory  of  the  Shos-shone  warrior, 
who  was  renowned  in  his  tribe  for  valor  and 


AMONG  THE  SPRINGS  177 

nobleness  of  heart,  struck  with  the  same 
avenging  club  a  hard  flat  rock,  which  overhung 
the  rivulet,  just  out  of  sight  of  this  scene  of 
blood;  and  forthwith  the  rock  opened  into  a 
round  clear  basin,  which  instantly  filled  with 
bubbling  sparkling  water,  than  which  no 
thirsty  hunter  ever  drank  a  sweeter  or  a  cooler 
draught. 

Thus  the  two  springs  remain,  an  everlasting 
memento  of  the  foul  murder  of  the  brave 
Shos-shone,  and  the  stern  justice  of  the  good 
Wan-kan-aga;  and  from  that  day  the  two 
mighty  tribes  of  the  Shos-shone  and  Comanche 
have  remained  severed  and  apart;  although  a 
long  and  bloody  war  followed  the  treacherous 
murder  of  the  Shos-shone  chief,  and  many  a 
scalp  torn  from  the  head  of  the  Comanche  paid 
the  penalty  of  his  death. 

The  American  and  Canadian  trappers  assert 
that  the  numerous  springs  which,  under  the 
head  of  Beer,  Soda,  Steam-boat  springs,  &c., 
abound  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  are  the  spots 
where  his  satanic  majesty  comes  up  from  his 
kitchen  to  breathe  the  sweet  fresh  air,  which 
must  doubtless  be  refreshing  to  his  worship 
after  a  few  hours  spent  in  superintending  the 
culinary  process  going  on  below. 

Never  was  there  such  a  paradise  for  hunters 
as  this  lone  and  solitary  spot.  The  shelving 
prairie,  at  the  bottom  of  which  the  springs  are 


178     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

situated,  is  entirely  surrounded  by  rugged 
mountains,  and,  containing  perhaps  two  or 
three  acres  of  excellent  grass,  affords  a  safe 
pasture  to  their  animals,  which  would  hardly 
care  to  wander  from  such  feeding  and  the 
salitrose  rocks  they  love  so  well  to  lick.  Im- 
mediately overhead  Pike's  Peak,  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  12,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
towers  high  into  the  clouds;  whilst  from  the 
fountain,  like  a  granitic  amphitheatre,  ridge 
after  ridge,  clothed  with  pine  and  cedar,  rises 
and  meets  the  stupendous  mass  of  mountains, 
well  called  "Rocky,"  which  stretches  far  away 
north  and  southward,  their  gigantic  peaks  being 
visible  above  the  strata  of  clouds  which  hide 
their  rugged  bases. 

This  first  day  the  sun  shone  out  bright  and 
warm,  and  not  a  breath  of  wind  ruffled  the 
evergreen  foliage  of  the  cedar-groVes.  Gay- 
plumaged  birds  were  twittering  in  the  shrubs, 
and  ravens  and  magpies  were  chattering  over- 
head, attracted  by  the  meat  I  had  hung  upon 
a  tree;  the  mules,  having  quickly  filled  them- 
selves, were  lying  round  the  spring,  basking 
lazily  in  the  sun;  and  myself,  seated  on  a  pack, 
and  pipe  in  mouth,  with  rifle  ready  at  my  side, 
indolently  enjoyed  the  rays  which,  reflected  from 
the  white  rock  on  which  I  was  lying,  were 
deliciously  warm  and  soothing.  A  piece  of 
rock,  detached  from  the  mountain-side  and 


AMONG  THE  SPRINGS  179 

tumbling  noisily  down,  caused  me  to  look  up  in 
the  direction  whence  it  came.  Half  a  dozen 
big-horns,  or  Rocky  Mountain  sheep,  perched  on 
the  pinnacle  of  a  rock,  were  gazing  wonderingly 
upon  the  prairie,  where  the  mules  were  rolling 
enveloped  in  clouds  of  dust.  The  enormous 
horns  of  the  mountain  sheep  appeared  so  dis- 
proportionately heavy,  that  I  every  moment 
expected  to  see  them  lose  their  balance  and 
topple  over  the  giddy  height.  My  motions 
frightened  them,  and,  jumping  from  rock  to 
rock,  they  quickly  disappeared  up  the  steepest 
part  of  the  mountain.  At  the  same  moment  a 
herd  of  black-tail  deer  crossed  the  corner  of  the 
glade  within  rifle-shot  of  me,  but,  fearing  the 
vicinity  of  Indians,  I  refrained  from  firing 
before  I  had  reconnoitred  the  vicinity  for 
signs  of  their  recent  presence. 

Immediately  over  me,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  stream,  and  high  above  the  springs,  was  a 
small  plateau,  one  of  many  which  are  seen  on 
the  mountain-sides.  Three  buffalo-bulls  were 
here  quietly  feeding,  and  remained  the  whole 
afternoon  undisturbed.  I  saw  from  the  sign 
that  they  had  very  recently  drunk  at  the 
springs,  and  that  the  little  prairie  where  my 
animals  were  feeding  was  a  frequent  resort  of 
solitary  bulls. 

Perceiving  that  the  game,  which  was  in  sigLt 
on  every  side  of  me,  was  unwarily  tame,  I 


180     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

judged  from  this  fact  that  no  Indians  were  in 
the  immediate  vicinity,  and  therefore  I  resolved 
to  camp  where  I  was.  Ascending  a  bluff  where 
had  been  an  old  Indian  camp,  I  found  a  number 
of  old  lodge-poles,  and  packed  them  down  to 
the  springs,  near  which  I  made  my  fire,  but  out 
of  arrow-shot  of  the  shrubbery  which  lines  the 
stream.  Instead  of  permitting  the  animals  to 
run  loose,  I  picketed  them  close  to  and  round 
the  camp,  in  order  that  they  might  act  as  sen- 
tinels during  the  night,  for  no  man  or  dog  can 
so  soon  discover  the  presence  or  approach  of  an 
Indian  as  a  mule.  The  organ  and  sense  of  smell- 
ing in  these  animals  are  so  acute  that  they  at 
once  detect  the  scent  peculiar  to  the  natives, 
and,  snorting  loud  with  fear,  and  by  turning 
their  heads  with  ears  pointed  to  the  spot  whence 
the  danger  is  approaching,  wake,  and  warn  at 
the  same  moment,  their  sleeping  masters  of  the 
impending  peril. 

However,  this  night  I  was  undisturbed,  and 
slept  soundly  until  the  chattering  of  a  magpie 
overhead  awoke  me,  just  as  pike's  Peak  was 
being  tinged  with  the  first  grey  streak  of  dawn. 

Daybreak  in  this  wild  spot  was  beautiful  in 
the  extreme.  While  the  deep  gorge  in  which  I 
lay  was  still  buried  in  perfect  gloom,  the  moun- 
tain-tops loomed  grey  and  indistinct  from  out 
the  morning  mist.  A  faint  glow  of  light  broke 
over  the  ridge  which  shut  out  the  valley  from 


AMONG  THE  SPRINGS  181 

the  east,  and,  spreading  over  the  sky,  first 
displayed  the  snow-covered  peak,  a  wreath  of 
vapory  mist  encircling  it,  which  gradually  rose 
and  disappeared.  Suddenly  the  dull  white  of 
its  summit  glowed  with  light  like  burnished 
silver;  and  at  the  same  moment  the  whole 
eastern  sky  blazed,  as  it  were,  in  gold,  and  ridge 
and  peak,  catching  the  refulgence,  glittered 
with  the  beams  of  the  rising  sun,  which  at 
length,  peeping  over  the  crest,  flooded  at  once 
the  valley  with  its  dazzling  light. 

Blowing  the  ashes  of  the  slumbering  fire,  I 
placed  upon  it  the  little  pot  containing  a  piece 
of  venison  for  my  breakfast,  and,  relieving  my 
four-footed  sentries  from  their  picket-guard, 
sallied  down  to  the  stream,  the  edges  of  which 
were  still  thickly  crusted  with  ice,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  taking  a  luxuriously  cold  bath;  and  cold 
enough  it  was  in  all  conscience.  After  my 
frugal  breakfast,  unseasoned  by  bread  or  salt, 
or  by  any  other  beverage  than  the  refreshing 
soda-water,  I  took  my  rifle  and  sallied  up  the 
mountain  to  hunt,  consigning  my  faithful 
animals  to  the  protection  of  the  Dryad  of  the 
fountain,  offering  to  that  potent  sprite  the 
never-failing  "medicine"  of  the  first  whiff  of  my 
pipe  before  starting  from  the  spot. 

Climbing  up  the  mountain-side,  I  reached  a 
level  plateau,  interspersed  with  clumps  of  pine 
and  cedar,  where  a  herd  of  black-tail  deer  were 


182     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

quietly  feeding.  As  I  had  the  "wind"  I  ap- 
proached under  cover  of  a  cedar  whose  branches 
feathered  to  the  ground,  and,  resting  my  rifle 
in  a  forked  limb,  I  selected  the  plumpest- 
looking  of  the  band,  a  young  buck,  and  "let 
him  have  it,"  as  the  hunters  say.  Struck 
through  the  heart,  the  deer  for  an  instant 
stretched  out  its  limbs  convulsively,  and  then 
bounded  away  with  the  band,  but  in  a  zig-zag 
course;  and  unlike  the  rest,  whose  tails  were 
lifted  high,  his  black  tufted  appendage  was 
fast  "shut  up."  Whilst  I,  certain  of  his  speedy 
fall,  reloaded  my  rifle,  the  band,  seeing  their 
comrade  staggering  behind,  suddenly  stopped. 
The  wounded  animal  with  outstretched  neck 
ran  round  and  round  for  a  few  seconds  in  a  giddy 
circle,  and  dropped  dead  within  sixty  yards  of 
where  I  stood.  The  others,  like  sheep,  walked 
slowly  up  to  the  dead  animal,  and  again  my 
rifle  gave  out  its  sharp  crack  from  the  screen 
of  branches,  and  another  of  the  band,  jumping 
high  in  air,  bit  the  dust.  They  were  both 
miserably  poor,  so  much  so  that  I  left  all  but 
the  hind  quarters  and  fleece,  and  hanging  them 
upon  a  tree  I  returned  to  camp  for  a  mule  to 
pack  in  the  meat. 

The  mountains  are  full  of  grizzly  bears,  but, 
whether  they  had  not  yet  left  their  winter- 
quarters  thus  early  in  the  season,  I  saw  but 
one  or  two  tracks,  one  of  which  I  followed  un- 


AMONG  THE  SPRINGS  183 

successfully  for  many  miles  over  the  wildest 
part  of  the  mountains,  into  the  Bayou  Salado. 
Whilst  intent  upon  the  trail,  a  clattering  as  of  a 
regiment  of  cavalry  immediately  behind  me 
made  me  bring  my  rifle  to  the  ready,  thinking 
that  a  whole  nation  of  mounted  Indians  were 
upon  me;  but,  looking  back,  a  band  of  upwards 
of  a  hundred  elk  were  dashing  past,  looking  like 
a  herd  of  mules,  and  in  their  passage  down  the 
mountain  carrying  with  them  a  perfect  ava- 
lanche of  rocks  and  stones.  I  killed  another 
deer  on  my  return  close  to  camp,  which  I 
reached,  packing  in  the  meat  on  my  back,  long 
after  dark,  and  found  the  animals,  which 
received  me  with  loud  neighs  of  recognition  and 
welcome,  with  well-filled  bellies,  taking  their 
evening  drink  at  the  springs. 

I  spent  here  a  very  pleasant  time,  and  my 
animals  began  soon  to  improve  upon  the 
mountain-grass.  Game  was  very  abundant; 
indeed,  I  had  far  more  meat  than  I  possibly 
required;  but  the  surplus  I  hung  up  to  jerk,  as 
now  the  sun  was  getting  powerful  enough  for 
that  process. 

I  explored  all  the  valleys  and  canons  of  the 
mountains,  and  even  meditated  an  expedition 
to  the  summit  of  Pike's  Peak,  where  mortal 
foot  has  never  yet  trod.  No  dread  of  Indians 
crossed  my  mind,  probably  because  I  had  re- 
mained so  long  unmolested;  and  I  was  so  per- 


184     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

fectly  contented  that  I  had  even  selected  a 
camping-ground  where  I  intended  to  remain 
two  or  three  months,  and  probably  should  be 
at  the  present  moment,  if  I  had  not  got  into  a 
"scrape." 

The  bears  latterly  began  to  move,  and  their 
tracks  became  more  frequent.  One  day  I  was 
hunting  just  at  the  foot  of  the  Peak,  when  a 
large  she-bear  jumped  out  of  a  patch  of  cedars 
where  she  had  been  lying,  and  with  a  loud 
grunt  charged  up  the  mountain,  and,  dodging 
amongst  the  rocks,  prevented  my  getting  a 
crack  at  her.  She  was  very  old,  and  the  grizzliest 
of  the  grizzly.  She  was  within  a  few  feet  of  me 
when  I  first  saw  her.  It  was  unluckily  nearly 
dark,  or  I  should  have  followed  and  probably 
killed  her,  for  they  seldom  run  far,  particularly 
at  this  season,  when  they  are  lank  and  weak. 

One  day  as  I  was  following  a  band  of  deer 
over  the  broken  ground  to  the  eastward  of  the 
mountain,  I  came  suddenly  upon  an  Indian 
camp,  with  the  fire  still  smouldering,  and  dried 
meat  hanging  on  the  trees.  Robinson  Crusoe 
could  not  have  been  more  thoroughly  dis- 
gusted at  the  sight  of  the  "footprint  in  the 
sand,"  than  was  I  at  this  inopportune  discovery. 
I  had  anticipated  a  month  or  two's  undis- 
turbed hunting  in  this  remote  spot,  and  now  it 
was  out  of  the  question  to  imagine  that  the 
Indians  would  leave  me  unmolested.  I  presently 


AMONG  THE  SPRINGS  185 

saw  two  Indians,  carrying  a  deer  between  them, 
emerge  from  the  timber  bordering  the  creek, 
whom  I  knew  at  once  by  their  dress  to  be 
Arapahos.  As,  however,  my  camp  was  several 
miles  distant,  I  still  hoped  that  they  had  not 
yet  discovered  its  locality,  and  continued  my 
hunt  that  day,  returning  late  in  the  evening 
to  my  solitary  encampment. 

The  next  morning  I  removed  the  animals 
and  packs  to  a  prairie  a  little  lower  down  the 
stream,  which,  although  nearer  the  Indian 
camp,  was  almost  hidden  from  view,  being 
enclosed  by  pine-ridges  and  ragged  buttes, 
and  entered  by  a  narrow  gap  filled  with  a 
dense  growth  of  brush.  When  I  had  placed 
them  in  security,  and  taken  the  precaution  to 
fasten  them  all  to  strong  picket-pins,  with  a 
sufficient  length  of  rope  to  enable  them  to  feed 
at  ease,  and  at  the  same  time  prevent  them 
straying  back  to  the  springs,  I  again  sallied  out 
to  hunt. 

A  little  before  sunrise  I  descended  the  moun- 
tain to  the  springs,  and,  being  very  tired,  after 
taking  a  refreshing  draught  of  the  cold  water, 
I  lay  down  on  the  rock  by  the  side  of  the  water 
and  fell  fast  asleep.  When  I  awoke  the  sun  had 
already  set;  but  although  darkness  was  fast 
gathering  over  the  mountain,  I  was  surprised 
to  see  a  bright  light  flickering  against  its  sides. 
A  glance  assured  me  that  the  mountain  was 


186     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

on  fire,  and,  starting  up,  I  saw  at  once  the  danger 
of  my  position.  The  bottom  had  been  fired 
about  a  mile  below  the  springs,  and  but  a  short 
distance  from  where  I  had  secured  my  animals. 
A  dense  cloud  of  smoke  was  hanging  over  the 
gorge,  and  presently,  a  light  air  springing  up 
from  the  east,  a  mass  of  flame  shot  up  into  the 
sky  and  rolled  fiercely  up  the  stream,  the  belt 
of  dry  brush  on  its  banks  catching  fire  and 
burning  like  tinder.  The  mountain  was  already 
invaded  by  the  devouring  element,  and  two 
wings  of  flame  spread  out  from  the  main  stream, 
which  roaring  along  the  bottom  with  the  speed 
of  a  racehorse,  licked  the  mountain-side,  ex- 
tending its  long  line  as  it  advanced.  The  dry 
pines  and  cedars  hissed  and  cracked,  as  the 
flame,  reaching  them,  ran  up  their  trunks,  and 
spread  amongst  the  limbs,  whilst  the  long 
waving  grass  underneath  was  a  sea  of  fire. 
From  the  rapidity  with  which  the  fire  advanced 
I  feared  that  it  would  already  have  reached  my 
animals,  and  hurried  at  once  to  the  spot  as  fast 
as  I  could  run.  The  prairie  itself  was  as  yet 
untouched,  but  the  surrounding  ridges  were 
clothed  in  fire,  and  the  mules,  with  stretched 
ropes,  were  trembling  with  fear.  Throwing  the 
saddle  on  my  horse,  and  the  pack  on  the 
steadiest  mule,  I  quickly  mounted,  leaving  on 
the  ground  a  pile  of  meat,  which  I  had  not  time 
to  carry  with  me. 


AMONG  THE  SPRINGS  187 

The  fire  had  already  gained  the  prairie,  and 
its  long,  dry  grass  was  soon  a  sheet  of  flame,  but, 
worse  than  all,  the  gap  through  which  I  had  to 
retreat  was  burning.  Setting  spurs  into  Pan- 
chito's  sides,  I  dashed  him  at  the  burning  bush, 
and,  though  his  mane  and  tail  were  singed  in 
the  attempt,  he  gallantly  charged  through  it. 
Looking  back,  I  saw  the  mules  huddled  together 
on  the  other  side,  and  evidently  fearing  to  pass 
the  blazing  barrier.  As,  however,  to  stop  would 
have  been  fatal,  I  dashed  on,  but  before  I  had 
proceeded  twenty  yards  my  old  hunting  mule, 
singed  and  smoking,  was  at  my  side,  and  the 
others  close  behind  her. 

On  all  sides  I  was  surrounded  by  fire.  The 
whole  scenery  was  illuminated,  the  peaks  and 
distant  ridges  being  as  plainly  visible  as  at 
noonday.  The  bottom  was  a  roaring  mass  of 
flame,  but  on  the  other  side,  the  prairie  being 
more  bare  of  cedar-bushes,  the  fire  was  less 
fierce  and  presented  the  only  way  of  escape. 
To  reach  it,  however,  the  creek  had  to  be 
crossed,  and  the  bushes  on  the  banks  were 
burning  fiercely,  which  rendered  it  no  easy 
matter;  moreover,  the  edges  were  coated  above 
the  water  with  thick  ice,  which  rendered  it  still 
more  difficult.  I  succeeded  in  pushing  Panchito 
into  the  stream,  but,  in  attempting  to  climb  the 
opposite  bank,  a  blaze  of  fire  was  puffed  into 
his  face,  which  caused  him  to  rear  on  end,  and, 


188      WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

his  hind  feet  flying  away  from  him  at  the  same 
moment  on  the  ice,  he  fell  backwards  into  the 
middle  of  the  stream,  and  rolled  over  me  in  the 
deepest  water.  Panchito  rose  on  his  legs  and 
stood  trembling  with  affright  in  the  middle  of 
the  stream,  whilst  I  dived  and  groped  for  my 
rifle,  which  had  slipped  from  my  hands,  and 
of  course  had  sunk  to  the  bottom.  After  a 
search  of  some  minutes  I  found  it,  and,  again 
mounting,  made  another  attempt  to  cross  a 
little  farther  down,  in  which  I  succeeded,  and, 
followed  by  the  mules,  dashed  through  the  fire 
and  got  safely  through  the  line  of  blazing  brush. 

Once  in  safety,  I  turned  in  my  saddle  and  had 
leisure  to  survey  the  magnificent  spectacle.  The 
fire  had  extended  at  least  three  miles  on  each 
side  the  stream,  and  the  mountain  was  one  sheet 
of  flame.  A  comparatively  thin  line  marked  the 
progress  of  the  devouring  element,  which,  as 
there  was  no  wind  to  direct  its  course,  burned 
on  all  sides,  actually  roaring  as  it  went. 

I  had  from  the  first  no  doubt  but  that  the 
fire  was  caused  by  the  Indians,  who  had  prob- 
ably discovered  my  animals,  but,  thinking  that 
a  large  party  of  hunters  might  be  out,  had 
taken  advantage  of  a  favorable  wind  to  set 
fire  to  the  bottom,  hoping  to  secure  the  horse 
and  mules  in  the  confusion,  without  the  risk  of 
attacking  the  camp.  Once  or  twice  I  felt  sure 
that  I  saw  dark  figures  running  about  near 


AMONG  THE  SPRINGS  189 

where  I  had  seen  the  Indian  camp  the  previous 
day,  and  just  as  I  had  charged  through  the  gap  I 
heard  a  loud  yell,  which  was  answered  by 
another  at  a  little  distance. 

Singularly  enough,  just  as  I  had  got  through 
the  blazing  line,  a  breeze  sprang  up  from  the 
westward  and  drove  the  fire  after  me,  and  I  had 
again  to  beat  a  hasty  retreat  before  it.* 

I  encamped  six  or  seven  miles  from  the 
springs,  and,  whilst  proceeding  down  the  creek, 
deer  and  antelope  continually  crossed  and 
recrossed  the  trail,  some  in  their  affright 
running  back  into  the  very  jaws  of  the  fire.  As 
soon  as  I  had  secured  the  animals  I  endeavored 
to  get  my  rifle  into  shooting  order,  but  the 
water  had  so  thoroughly  penetrated  and  swelled 
the  patching  round  the  balls,  that  it  was  a  long 
time  before  I  succeeded  in  cleaning  one  barrel, 
the  other  defying  all  my  attempts.  This  was  a 
serious  accident,  as  I  could  not  but  anticipate 
a  visit  from  the  Indians  if  they  discovered  the 
camp. 

All  this  time  the  fire  was  spreading  out  into 
the  prairies,  and,  creeping  up  the  "divide,"  was 
already  advancing  upon  me.  It  extended  at 
least  five  miles  on  the  left  bank  of  the  creek,  and 
on  the  right  was  more  slowly  creeping  up  the 

*  This  fire  extended  into  the  prairie,  towards  the  waters  of  the 
Platte,  upwards  of  forty  miles,  and  for  fourteen  days  its  glare  was 
visible  on  the  Arkansa,  fifty  miles  distant. 


190      WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

mountain-side;  while  the  brush  and  timber  in 
the  bottom  was  one  body  of  flame.  Besides  the 
long  sweeping  line  of  the  advancing  flame,  the 
plateaus  on  the  mountain-side,  and  within 
the  line,  were  burning  in  every  direction,  as 
the  squalls  and  eddies  down  the  gullies  drove 
the  fire  to  all  points. 

The  mountains  themselves  being  invisible, 
the  air,  from  the  low  ground  where  I  then  was, 
appeared  a  mass  of  fire,  and  huge  crescents  of 
flame  danced  as  it  were  in  the  very  sky,  until  a 
mass  of  timber  blazing  at  once  exhibited  the 
sombre  background  of  the  stupendous  moun- 
tains. 

I  had  scarcely  slept  an  hour  when  huge  clouds 
of  smoke  rolling  down  the  bottom  frightened 
the  animals,  whose  loud  whinnying  awoke  me, 
and,  half  suffocated  by  the  dense  smoke  which 
hung  heavily  in  the  atmosphere,  I  again  re- 
treated before  the  fire,  which  was  rapidly 
advancing:  and  this  time  I  did  not  stop  until  I 
had  placed  thirty  or  forty  miles  between  me 
and  the  enemy.  I  then  encamped  in  a  thickly- 
timbered  bottom  on  the  Fontaine-qui-bouille, 
where  the  ground,  which  had  been  burned  by 
the  hunters  in  the  winter,  was  studded  like  a 
wheat-field  with  green  grass.  On  this  the  ani- 
mals fared  sumptuously  for  several  days- 
better,  indeed,  than  I  did  myself,  for  game  was 
very  scarce,  and  in  such  poor  condition  as  to 


AMONG  THE  SPRINGS  191 

be  almost  uneatable.  While  encamped  on  this 
stream,  the  wolves  infested  the  camp  to  that 
degree,  that  I  could  scarcely  leave  my  saddles 
for  a  few  minutes  on  the  ground  without  finding 
the  straps  of  rawhide  gnawed  to  pieces;  and  one 
night  the  hungry  brutes  ate  up  all  the  ropes 
which  were  tied  on  the  necks  of  the  animals  and 
trailed  along  the  ground:  they  were  actually 
devoured  to  within  a  yard  of  the  mules'  throats. 
One  evening  a  wolf  came  into  camp  as  I  was 
engaged  cleaning  my  rifle,  one  barrel  of  which 
was  still  unserviceable,  and  a  long  hickory 
wiping-stick  in  it  at  the  time.  As  I  was  hidden 
by  a  tree,  the  wolf  approached  the  fire  within 
a  few  feet,  and  was  soon  tugging  away  at  an 
apishamore  or  saddle-cloth  of  buffalo  calfskin 
which  lay  on  the  ground.  Without  dreaming 
that  the  rifle  would  go  off,  I  put  a  cap  on  the 
useless  barrel,  and,  holding  it  out  across  my 
knee  in  a  line  with  the  wolf,  snap — ph-i-zz — 
bang — went  the  charge  of  damp  powder,  much 
to  my  astonishment,  igniting  the  stick  which 
remained  in  the  barrel,  and  driving  it  like  a 
fiery  comet  against  the  ribs  of  the  beast,  who, 
yelling  with  pain,  darted  into  the  prairie  at 
the  top  of  his  speed,  his  singed  hair  smoking  as 
he  ran. 


CHAPTER  X 

PASSING  OF  THE  BUFFALO 

IT  is  a  singular  fact  that  within  the  last  two 
years  the  prairies,  extending  from  the 
mountains  to  a  hundred  miles  or  more  down 
the  Arkansa,  have  been  entirely  abandoned  by 
the  buffalo.  Indeed,  in  crossing  from  the  set- 
tlements of  New  Mexico,  the  boundary  of  their 
former  range  is  marked  by  skulls  and  bones, 
which  appear  fresher  as  the  traveller  advances 
westward  and  towards  the  waters  of  the  Platte. 
As  the  skulls  are  said  to  last  only  three  years  on 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  that  period  has  con- 
sequently seen  the  gradual  disappearance  of 
the  buffalo  from  their  former  haunts. 

With  the  exception  of  the  Bayou  Salado,  one 
of  their  favorite  pastures,  they  are  now  rarely 
met  with  in  large  bands  on  the  upper  waters 
of  the  Arkansa;  but  straggling  bulls  pass  occa- 
sionally the  foot  of  the  mountain,  seeking 
wintering-places  on  the  elevated  plateaus,  which 
are  generally  more  free  from  snow  than  the 
lowland  prairies,  by  reason  of  the  high  winds. 
The  bulls  separate  from  the  cows  about  the 

month    of   September,    and    scatter   over   the 
192 


PASSING  OF  THE  BUFFALO  193 

prairies  and  into  the  mountains,  where  they 
recruit  themselves  during  the  winter.  A  few 
males,  however,  always  accompany  the  cows, 
to  act  as  guides  and  defenders  of  the  herd,  on 
the  outskirts  of  which  they  are  always  stationed. 
The  countless  bands  which  are  seen  together  at 
all  seasons  are  generally  composed  of  cows 
alone;  the  bulls  congregating  in  smaller  herds, 
and  on  the  flanks  of  the  main  body. 

The  meat  of  the  cow  is  infinitely  preferable 
to  that  of  the  male  buffalo;  but  that  of  the  bull, 
particularly  if  killed  in  the  mountains,  is  in 
better  condition  during  the  winter  months. 
From  the  end  of  June  to  September  bull-meat 
is  rank  and  tough,  and  almost  uneatable;  while 
the  cows  are  in  perfection,  and  as  fat  as  stall- 
fed  oxen,  the  depouille,  or  fleece,  exhibiting 
frequently  four  inches  and  more  of  solid  fat. 

Whether  it  is  that  the  meat  itself  (which,  by 
the  way,  is  certainly  the  most  delicious  of 
flesh)  is  most  easy  of  digestion,  or  whether  the 
digestive  organs  of  hunters  are  "ostrichified" 
by  the  severity  of  exercise,  and  the  bracing, 
wholesome  climate  of  the  mountains  and  plains, 
it  is  a  fact  that  most  prodigious  quantities  of 
"fat  cow"  may  be  swallowed  with  the  greatest 
impunity,  and  not  the  slightest  inconvenience 
ever  follows  the  mammoth  feasts  of  the  gour- 
mands of  the  far  west.  The  powers  of  the 
Canadian  voyageurs  and  hunters  in  the  con- 


194      WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

sumption  of  meat  strike  the  greenhorn  with 
wonder  and  astonishment;  and  are  only  equalled 
by  the  gastronomical  capabilities  exhibited  by 
Indian  dogs,  both  following  the  same  plan  in 
their  epicurean  gorgings. 

On  slaughtering  a  fat  cow,  the  hunter  care- 
fully lays  by,  as  a  tit-bit  for  himself,  the  boudins 
and  medullary  intestine,  which  are  prepared 
by  being  inverted  and  partially  cleaned  (this, 
however,  is  not  thought  indispensable).  The 
depouille  or  fleece,  the  short  and  delicious 
hump-rib  and  tenderloin,  are  then  carefully 
stowed  away,  and  with  these  the  rough  edge  of 
the  appetite  is  removed.  But  the  course  is,  par 
excellence,  the  sundry  yards  of  boudin,  which, 
lightly  browned  over  the  embers  of  the  fire, 
slide  down  the  well-lubricated  throat  of  the 
hungry  mountaineer,  yard  after  yard  disap- 
pearing in  quick  succession. 

No  animal  requires  so  much  killing  as  a 
buffalo.  Unless  shot  through  the  lungs  or  spine, 
they  invariably  escape;  and,  even  when  thus 
mortally  wounded,  or  even  struck  through  the 
very  heart,  they  will  frequently  run  a  consider- 
able distance  before  falling  to  the  ground, 
particularly  if  they  see  the  hunter  after  the 
wound  is  given.  If,  however,  he  keeps  himself 
concealed  after  firing,  the  animal  will  remain 
still,  if  it  does  not  immediately  fall.  It  is  a 
most  painful  sight  to  witness  the  dying  struggles 


PASSING  OF  THE  BUFFALO  195 

of  the  huge  beast.  The  buffalo  invariably 
evinces  the  greatest  repugnance  to  lie  down 
when  mortally  wounded,  apparently  conscious 
that,  when  once  touching  mother  earth,  there  is 
no  hope  left  him.  A  bull,  shot  through  the 
heart  or  lungs,  with  blood  streaming  from  his 
mouth,  and  protruding  tongue,  his  eyes  rolling, 
bloodshot,  and  glazed  with  death,  braces  .him- 
self on  his  legs,  swaying  from  side  to  side,  stamps 
impatiently  at  his  growing  weakness,  or  lifts 
his  rugged  and  matted  head  and  helplessly 
bellows  put  his  conscious  impotence.  To  the 
last,  however,  he  endeavors  to  stand  upright, 
and  plants  his  limbs  farther  apart,  but  to  no 
purpose.  As  the  body  rolls  like  a  ship  at  sea, 
his  head  slowly  turns  from  side  to  side,  looking 
about,  as  it  were,  for  the  unseen  and  treacherous 
enemy  who  has  brought  him,  the  lord  of  the 
plains,  to  such  a  pass.  Gouts  of  purple  blood 
spurt  from  his  mouth  and  nostrils,  and  gradually 
the  failing  limbs  refuse  longer  to  support  the 
ponderous  carcase;  more  heavily  rolls  the  body 
from  side  to  side,  until  suddenly,  for  a  brief 
instant,  it  becomes  rigid  and  still;  a  convulsive 
tremor  seizes  it,  and,  with  a  low  sobbing  gasp, 
the  huge  animal  falls  over  on  his  side,  the  limbs 
extended  stark  and  stiff,  and  the  mountain  of 
flesh  without  life  or  motion. 

The  first  attempts  of  a  "greenhorn"  to  kill  a 
buffalo  are  invariably  unsuccessful.     He  sees 


196     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

before  him  a  mass  of  flesh,  nearly  five  feet  in 
depth  from  the  top  of  the  hump  to  the  brisket, 
and  consequently  imagines  that,  by  planting  his 
ball  midway  between  these  points,  it  must 
surely  reach  the  vitals.  Nothing,  however,  is 
more  erroneous  than  the  impression;  for  to 
"throw  a  buffalo  in  his  tracks/'  which  is  the 
phrase  for  making  a  clean  shot,  he  must  be 
struck  but  a  few  inches  above  the  brisket, 
behind  the  shoulder,  where  alone,  unless  the 
spine  be  divided,  a  death-shot  will  reach  the 
vitals.  I  once  shot  a  bull,  the  ball  passing 
directly  through  the  very  centre  of  the  heart 
and  tearing  a  hole  sufficiently  large  to  insert 
the  finger,  which  ran  upwards  of  half  a  mile 
before  it  fell,  and  yet  the  ball  had  passed 
completely  through  the  animal,  cutting  its 
heart  almost  in  two.  I  also  saw  eighteen  shots, 
the  half  of  them  muskets,  deliberately  fired 
into  an  old  bull,  at  six  paces,  and  some  of  them 
passing  through  the  body,  the  poor  animal 
standing  the  whole  time,  and  making  feeble 
attempts  to  charge.  The  nineteenth  shot,  with 
the  muzzle  touching  his  body,  brought  him  to 
the  ground.  The  head  of  the  buffalo-bull  is 
so  thickly  covered  with  coarse  matted  hair,  that 
a  ball  fired  at  half  a  dozen  paces  will  not  pene- 
trate the  skull  through  the  shaggy  frontlock.  I 
have  frequently  attempted  this  with  a  rifle 


PASSING  OF  THE  BUFFALO  197 

carrying  twenty-five  balls  to  the  pound,  but 
never  once  succeeded. 

Notwithstanding  the  great  and  wanton  de- 
struction of  the  buffalo,  many  years  must 
elapse  before  this  lordly  animal  becomes  extinct. 
In  spite  of  their  numerous  enemies,  they  still 
exist  in  countless  numbers,  and,  could  any 
steps  be  taken  to  protect  them,  as  is  done  in 
respect  of  other  game,  they  would  ever  remain 
the  life  and  ornament  of  the  boundless  prairies, 
and  afford  ample  and  never-failing  provision 
to  the  travellers  over  these  otherwise  desert 
plains.  Some  idea  of  the  prodigious  slaughter 
of  these  animals  may  be  formed,  by  mentioning 
the  fact  that  upwards  of  one  hundred  thousand 
buffalo  robes  find  their  way  annually  into  the 
United  States  and  Canada;  and  these  are  the 
skins  of  cows  alone,  the  bull's  hide  being  so 
thick  that  it  is  never  dressed.  Besides  this, 
the  Indians  kill  a  certain  number  for  their  own 
use,  exclusive  of  those  whose  meat  they  require; 
and  the  reckless  slaughter  of  buffalo  by  parties 
of  white  men,  emigrants  to  the  Columbia, 
California,  and  elsewhere,  leaving,  as  they 
proceed  on  their  journey,  thousands  of  un- 
touched carcases  on  the  trail,  swells  the  aggre- 
gate of  this  wholesale  destruction  to  an  enor- 
mous amount. 


CHAPTER  XI 

BIG  GAME  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS 

THE  grizzly  bear  is  the  fiercest  of  the  ferae 
naturae  of  the  mountains.  His  great 
strength  and  wonderful  tenacity  of  life 
render  an  encounter  with  him  anything  but 
desirable,  and  therefore  it  is  a  rule  with  the 
Indians  and  white  hunters  never  to  attack  him 
unless  backed  by  a  strong  party.  Although, 
like  every  other  wild  animal,  he  usually  flees 
from  man,  yet  at  certain  seasons,  when  mad- 
dened by  love  or  hunger,  he  not  unfrequently 
charges  at  first  sight  of  a  foe;  when,  unless 
killed  dead,  a  hug  at  close  quarters  is  anything 
but  a  pleasant  embrace,  his  strong  hooked 
claws  stripping  the  flesh  from  the  bones  as 
easily  as  a  cook  peels  an  onion.  Many  are  the 
tales  of  bloody  encounters  with  these  animals 
which  the  trappers  delight  to  recount  to  the 
"greenhorn,"  to  enforce  their  caution  as  to  the 
fool-hardiness  of  ever  attacking  the  grizzly 
bear. 

Some  years  ago  a  trapping  party  was  on  their 
way  to  the  mountains,  led,  I  believe,  by  old 
Sublette,  a  well-known  captain  of  the  West. 
198 


BIG  GAME  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS          199 

Amongst  the  band  was  one  John  Glass,*  a 
trapper  who  had  been  all  his  life  in  the  moun- 
tains, and  had  seen,  probably,  more  exciting 
adventures,  and  had  had  more  wonderful  and 
hairbreadth  escapes,  than  any  of  the  rough  and 
hardy  fellows  who  make  the  West  their  home, 
and  whose  lives  are  spent  in  a  succession  of 
perils  and  privations.  On  one  of  the  streams 
running  from  the  "Black  Hills,"  a  range  of 
mountains  northward  of  the  Platte,  Glass  and  a 
companion  were  one  day  setting  their  traps, 
when,  on  passing  through  a  cherry-thicket 
which  skirted  the  stream,  the  former,  who  was 
in  advance,  descried  a  large  grizzly  bear  quietly 
turning  up  the  turf  with  his  nose,  searching  for 
yampa-roots  or  pig-nuts,  which  there  abounded. 
Glass  immediately  called  his  companion,  and 
both,  proceeding  cautiously,  crept  to  the  skirt 
of  the  thicket,  and,  taking  steady  aim  at  the 
animal,  whose  broadside  was  fairly  exposed  at 
the  distance  of  twenty  yards,  discharged  their 
rifles  at  the  same  instant,  both  balls  taking 
effect,  but  not  inflicting  a  mortal  wound.  The 
bear,  giving  a  groan  of  pain,  jumped  with  all 
four  legs  from  the  ground,  and,  seeing  the 
wreaths  of  smoke  hanging  at  the  edge  of  the 
brush,  charged  at  once  in  that  direction,  snort- 
ing with  pain  and  fury. 

"Hurra w,  Bill!"  roared  out  Glass,  as  he  saw 

*  Hugh  Glass.    (Ed.). 


200     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

the  animal  rushing  towards  them,  "we'll  be 
made  'meat'  of  as  sure  as  shootin'!"  and, 
leaving  the  tree  behind  which  he  had  concealed 
himself,  he  bolted  through  the  thicket,  followed 
closely  by  his  companion.  The  brush  was  so 
thick,  that  they  could  scarcely  make  their  way 
through,  whereas  the  weight  and  strength  of 
the  bear  carried  him  through  all  obstructions, 
and  he  was  soon  close  upon  them. 

About  a  hundred  yards  from  the  thicket  was 
a  steep  bluff,  and  between  these  points  was  a 
level  piece  of  prairie;  Glass  saw  that  his  only 
chance,  was  to  reach  this  bluff,  and,  shouting 
to  his  companion  to  make  for  it,  they  both 
broke  from  the  cover  and  flew  like  lightning 
across  the  open  space.  When  more  than  half 
way  across,  the  bear  being  about  fifty  yards 
behind  them,  Glass,  who  was  leading,  tripped 
over  a  stone,  and  fell  to  the  ground,  and  just 
as  he  rose  to  his  feet,  the  beast,  rising  on  his 
hind  feet,  confronted  him.  As  he  closed,  Glass, 
never  losing  his  presence  of  mind,  cried  to  his 
companion  to  load  up  quickly,  and  discharged  his 
pistol  full  into  the  body  of  the  animal,  at  the 
same  moment  that  the  bear,  with  blood  stream- 
ing from  its  nose  and  mouth,  knocked  the 
pistol  from  his  hand  with  one  blow  of  its  paw, 
and,  fixing  its  claws  deep  into  his  flesh,  rolled 
with  him  to  the  ground. 

The    hunter,    notwithstanding    his    hopeless 


BIG  GAME  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS          201 

situation,  struggled  manfully,  drawing  his 
knife  and  plunging .  it  several  times  into  the 
body  of  the  beast,  which,  furious  with  pain,  tore 
with  tooth  and  claw  the  body  of  the  wretched 
victim,  actually  baring  the  ribs  of  flesh,  and 
exposing  the  very  bones.  Weak  with  loss  of 
blood,  and  with  eyes  blinded  with  the  blood 
which  streamed  from  his  lacerated  scalp,  the 
knife  at  length  fell  from  his  hand,  and  Glass 
sank  down  insensible,  and  to  all  appearance 
dead. 

His  companion,  who,  up  to  this  moment,  had 
watched  the  conflict,  which,  however,  lasted 
but  a  few  seconds,  thinking  that  his  turn  would 
come  next,  and  not  having  had  presence  of  mind 
even  to  load  his  rifle,  fled  with  might  and  main 
back  to  camp,  where  he  narrated  the  miserable 
fate  of  poor  Glass.  The  captain  of  the  band  of 
trappers,  however,  despatched  the  man  with  a 
companion  back  to  the  spot  where  he  lay,  with 
instructions  to  remain  by  him  if  still  alive,  or 
to  bury  him  if,  as  all  supposed  he  was,  defunct, 
promising  them  at  the  same  time  a  sum  of 
money  for  so  doing. 

On  reaching  the  spot,  which  was  red  with 
blood,  they  found  Glass  still  breathing,  and  the 
bear,  dead  and  stiff,  actually  lying  upon  his 
body.  Poor  Glass  presented  a  horrifying 
spectacle:  the  flesh  was  torn  in  strips  from  his 
chest  and  limbs,  ^and  large  flaps  strewed  the 


202      WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

ground;  his  scalp  hung  bleeding  over  his  face, 
which  was  also  lacerated  in  a  shocking  manner. 

The  bear,  besides  the  three  bullets  which  had 
pierced  its  body,  bore  the  marks  of  the  fierce 
nature  of  Glass's  final  struggle,  no  less  than 
twenty  gaping  wounds  in  the  breast  and  belly 
testifying  to  the  gallant  defence  of  the  moun- 
taineer. 

Imagining  that,  if  not  already  dead,  the  poor 
fellow  could  not  possibly  survive  more  than  a 
few  moments,  the  men  collected  his  arms, 
stripped  him  even  of  his  hunting-shirt  and 
moccasins,  and,  merely  putting  the  dead  bear 
off  the  body,  mounted  their  horses,  and  slowly 
followed  the  remainder  of  the  party,  saying, 
when  they  reached  it,  that  Glass  was  dead,  as 
probably  they  thought,  and  that  they  had 
buried  him. 

In  a  few  days  the  gloom  which  pervaded  the 
trappers'  camp,  occasioned  by  the  loss  of  a 
favorite  companion,  disappeared,  and  Glass's 
misfortune,  although  frequently  mentioned  over 
the  camp-fire,  at  length  was  almost  entirely 
forgotten  in  the  excitement  of  the  hunt  and 
Indian  perils  which  surrounded  them. 

Months  elapsed,  the  hunt  was  over,  and  the 
party  of  trappers  were  on  their  way  to  the 
trading-fort  with  their  packs  of  beaver.  It 
was  nearly  sundown,  and  the  round  adobe 
bastions  of  the  mud-built  fort  were  just  in 


BIG  GAME  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS  203 

sight,  when  a  horseman  was  seen  slowly  ap- 
proaching them  along  the  banks  of  the  river. 
When  near  enough  to  discern  his  figure,  they 
saw  a  lank  cadaverous  form  with  a  face  so  scar- 
red and  disfigured  that  scarcely  a  feature  was 
discernible.  Approaching  the  leading  horsemen, 
one  of  whom  happened  to  be  the  companion  of 
the  defunct  Glass  in  his  memorable  bear 
scrape,  the  stranger,  in  a  hollow  voice,  reining 
in  his  horse  before  them,  exclaimed,  "Hurra w, 
Bill,  my  boy!  you  thought  I  was  'gone  under' 
that  time,  did  you?  but  hand  me  over  my  horse 
and  gun,  my  lad;  I  ain't  dead  yet  by  a  dam 
sight!" 

What  was  the  astonishment  of  the  whole 
party,  and  the  genuine  horror  of  Bill  and  his 
worthy  companion  in  the  burial  story,  to  hear 
the  well-known,  though  now  much  altered,  voice 
of  John  Glass,  who  had  been  killed  by  a  grizzly 
bear  months  before,  and  comfortably  interred, 
as  the  two  men  had  reported,  and  all  had 
believed! 

There  he  was,  however,  and  no  mistake  about 
it;  and  all  crowded  round  to  hear  from  his  lips, 
how,  after  the  lapse  of  he  knew  not  how  long, 
he  had  gradually  recovered,  and  being  without 
arms,  or  even  a  butcher-knife,  he  had  fed 
upon  the  almost  putrid  carcase  of  the  bear  for 
several  days,  until  he  had  regained  sufficient 
strength  to  crawl,  when,  tearing  off  as  much  of 


204     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

the  bear's  meat  as  he  could  carry  in  his  en- 
feebled state,  he  crept  down  the  river;  and 
suffering  excessive  torture  from  his  wounds, 
and  hunger,  and  cold,  he  made  the  best  of  his 
way  to  the  fort,  which  was  some  eighty  or  ninety 
miles  from  the  place  of  his  encounter  with  the 
bear,  and,  living  the  greater  part  of  the  way 
upon  roots  and  berries,  he  after  many,  many 
days,  arrived  in  a  pitiable  state,  from  which  he 
had  now  recovered,  and  was,  to  use  his  own 
expression,  "as  slick  as  a  peeled  onion."  * 

A  trapper  on  Arkansa,  named  Valentine 
Herring,  but  better  known  as  "Old  Rube,"  told 
me  that  once,  when  visiting  his  traps  one 
morning  on  a  stream  beyond  the  mountains,  he 
found  one  missing,  at  the  same  time  that  he 
discovered  fresh  bear  "sign"  about  the  banks. 
Proceeding  down  the  river  in  search  of  the 
lost  trap,  he  heard  the  noise  of  some  large 
body  breaking  through  the  thicket  of  plum 
bushes  which  belted  the  stream.  Ensconcing 
himself  behind  a  rock,  he  presently  observed  a 
huge  grizzly  bear  emerge  from  the  bush  and 
limp  on  three  legs  to  a  flat  rock,  which  he 
mounted,  and  then,  quietly  seating  himself,  he 
raised  one  of  his  fore  paws,  on  which  Rube,  to 
his  amazement,  discovered  his  trap  tight  and 
fast. 

*  For  other  accounts  of  this  episode  see  Chittenden's  "American 
Fur  Trade,"  chapter  VIII.  (Ed.) 


BIG  GAME  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS          205 

The  bear,  lifting  his  iron-gloved  foot  close  to 
his  face,  gravely  examined  it,  turning  his  paw 
round  and  round,  and  quaintly  bending  his 
head  from  side  to  side,  looking  at  the  trap  from 
the  corners  of  his  eyes,  and  with  an  air  of 
mystery  and  puzzled  curiosity,  for  he  evidently 
could  not  make  out  what  the  novel  and  painful 
appendage  could  be;  and  every  now  and  then 
smelt  it  and  tapped  it  lightly  on  the  rock.  This, 
however,  only  paining  the  animal  the  more,  he 
would  lick  the  trap,  as  if  deprecating  its  anger, 
and  wishing  to  conciliate  it. 

After  watching  these  curious  antics  for  some 
time,  as  the  bear  seemed  inclined  to  resume 
his  travels,  Rube,  to  regain  his  trap,  was  neces- 
sitated to  bring  the  bear's  cogitations  to  a  close, 
and,  levelling  his  rifle,  shot  him  dead,  cutting 
off  his  paw  and  returning  with  it  to  camp,  where 
the  trappers  were  highly  amused  at  the  idea  of 
"trapping  a  b'ar." 

Near  the  same  spot  where  Glass  encountered 
his  "scrape,"  some  score  of  Sioux  squaws  were 
one  day  engaged  in  gathering  cherries  in  a 
thicket  near  their  village,  and  had  already 
nearly  filled  their  baskets,  when  a  bear  suddenly 
appeared  in  the  midst,  and,  with  a  savage 
growl,  charged  amongst  them.  Away  ran  the 
terrified  squaws,  yelling  and  shrieking,  out  of 
the  shrubbery,  nor  stopped  until  safely  en- 
sconced within  their  lodges.  Bruin,  however, 


206     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

preferring  fruit  to  meat,  albeit  of  tender  squaws, 
after  routing  the  petticoats,  betook  himself  to 
the  baskets,  which  he  quickly  emptied,  and 
then  quietly  retired. 

Bears  are  exceedingly  fond  of  plums  and 
cherries,  and  a  thicket  of  this  fruit  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  mountains  is,  at  the  season  when  they  are 
ripe,  a  sure  "find"  for  Mr.  Bruin.  When  they 
can  get  fruit  they  prefer  such  food  to  meat,  but 
are,  nevertheless,  carnivorous  animals. 

The  game,  par  excellence,  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  that  which  takes  precedence 
in  a  comestible  point  of  view,  is  the  carnero 
cimmaron  of  the  Mexicans,  the  Bighorn  or 
Mountain  sheep  of  the  Canadian  hunters.  This 
animal,  which  partakes  of  the  nature  of  both 
the  deer  and  the  goat,  resembles  the  latter 
more  particularly  in  its  habits,  and  its  character- 
istic liking  for  lofty,  inaccessible  points  of  the 
mountains,  whence  it  seldom  descends  to  the 
upland  valleys  excepting  in  very  severe  weather. 
In  size  the  mountain-sheep  is  between  tthe 
domestic  animal  and  the  common  red  deer  of 
America,  but  more  strongly  made  than  the 
latter.  Its  color  is  a  brownish  dun  (the  hair 
being  tipped  with  a  darker  tinge  as  the  animal's 
age  increases),  with  a  whitish  streak  on  the  hind 
quarters,  the  tail  being  shorter  than  a  deer's, 
and  tipped  with  black.  The  horns  of  the  male 
are  enormous,  curved  backwards,  and  often 


BIG  GAME  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS          207 

three  feet  in  length  with  a  circumference  of 
twenty  inches  near  the  head.  The  hunters 
assert  that,  in  descending  the  precipitous  sides 
of  the  mountains,  the  sheep  frequently  leap 
from  a  height  of  twenty  or  thirty  feet,  invariably 
alighting  on  their  horns,  and  thereby  saving 
their  bones  from  certain  dislocation.* 

They  are  even  more  acute  in  the  organs  of 
sight  and  smell  than  the  deer;  and  as  they  love 
to  resort  to  the  highest  and  most  inaccessible 
spots,  whence  a  view  can  readily  be  had  of 
approaching  danger,  and  particularly  as  one 
of  the  band  is  always  stationed  on  the  most 
commanding  pinnacle  of  rock  as  sentinel,  whilst 
the  others  are  feeding,  it  is  no  easy  matter  to 
get  within  rifle-shot  of  the  cautious  animals. 
When  alarmed  they  ascend  still  higher  up  the 
mountain:  halting  now  and  then  on  some 
overhanging  crag,  and  looking  down  at  the 
object  which  may  have  frightened  them,  they 
again  commence  their  ascent,  leaping  from  point 
to  point,  and  throwing  down  an  avalanche  of 
rocks  and  stones  as  they  bound  up  the  steep 
sides  of  the  mountain.  They  are  generally  very 
abundant  in  all  parts  of  the  main  chain  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  but  particularly  so  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  "Parks"  and  the  Bayou  Salado, 
as  well  as  in  the  range  between  the  upper  waters 
of  the  Del  Norte  and  Arkansa,  called  the 

*  This  fable  is  also  told  of  the  European  ibex.     (Ed.) 


208     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

"Wet  Mountain"  by  the  trappers.  On  the 
Sierra  Madre,  or  Cordillera  of  New  Mexico  and 
Chihuahua,  they  are  also  numerous. 

The  first  mountain-sheep  I  killed,  I  got  with- 
in shot  of  in  rather  a  curious  manner.  I  had 
undertaken  several  unsuccessful  hunts  for  the 
purpose  of  procuring  a  pair  of  horns  of  this 
animal,  as  well  as  some  skins,  which  are  of 
excellent  quality  when  dressed,  but  had  almost 
given  up  any  hope  of  approaching  them,  when 
one  day,  having  killed  and  butchered  a  black- 
tail  deer  in  the  mountains,  I  sat  down  with 
my  back  to  a  small  rock  and  fell  asleep.  On 
awakening,  feeling  inclined  for  a  smoke,  I 
drew  from  my  pouch  a  pipe,  and  flint  and  steel, 
and  began  leisurely  to  cut  a  charge  of  tobacco. 
Whilst  thus  engaged  I  became  sensible  of  a 
peculiar  odor  which  was  wafted  right  into  my 
face  by  the  breeze,  and  which,  on  snuffing  it 
once  or  twice,  I  immediately  recognized  as 
that  which  emanates  from  sheep  and  goats. 
Still  I  never  thought  that  one  of  the  former 
animals  could  be  in  the  neighborhood,  for  my 
mule  was  picketed  on  the  little  plateau  where  I 
sat,  and  was  leisurely  cropping  the  buffalo- 
grass  which  thickly  covered  it. 

Looking  up  carelessly  from  my  work,  as  a 
whiff  stronger  than  before  reached  my  nose, 
what  was  my  astonishment  at  seeing  five 
mountain-sheep  within  ten  paces,  and  regarding 


BIG  GAME  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS          209 

me  with  a  curious  and  astonished  gaze!  Without 
drawing  a  breath,  I  put  out  my  hand  and  grasped 
the  rifle,  which  was  lying  within  reach;  but  the 
motion,  slight  as  it  was,  sufficed  to  alarm  them, 
and  with  a  loud  bleat  the  old  ram  bounded  up 
the  mountain,  followed  by  the  band  and  at  so 
rapid  a  pace  that  all  my  attempts  to  "draw  a 
bead"  upon  them  were  ineffectual.  When, 
however,  they  reached  a  little  plateau  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  yards  from  where  I  stood, 
they  suddenly  stopped,  and,  approaching  the 
edge,  looked  down  at  me,  shaking  their  heads, 
and  bleating  their  displeasure  at  the  intrusion. 
No  sooner  did  I  see  them  stop  than  my  rifle  was 
at  my  shoulder,  and  covering  the  broad  side 
of  the  one  nearest  to  me.  An  instant  after  and 
I  pulled  the  trigger,  and  at  the  report  the  sheep 
jumped  convulsively  from  the  rock,  and  made 
one  attempt  to  follow  its  flying  companions; 
but  its  strength  failed,  and,  circling  round 
once  or  twice  at  the  edge  of  the  plateau,  it  fell 
over  on  its  side,  and,  rolling  down  the  steep 
rock,  tumbled  dead  very  near  me.  My  prize 
proved  a  very  fine  young  male,  but  had  not  a 
large  pair  of  horns.  It  was,  however,  "seal" 
fat,  and  afforded  me  a  choice  supply  of  meat, 
which  was  certainly  the  best  I  had  eaten  in  the 
mountains,  being  fat  and  juicy,  and  in  flavor 
somewhat  partaking  both  of  the  domestic  sheep 
and  buffalo. 


210     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

Several  attempts  have  been  made  to  secure 
the  young  of  these  animals  and  transport  them 
to  the  States;  and,  for  this  purpose,  an  old 
mountaineer,  one  Billy  Williams,  took  with  him 
a  troop  of  milch-goats,  by  which  to  bring  up 
the  young  sheep;  but  although  he  managed 
to  take  several  fine  lambs,  I  believe  that  he 
did  not  succeed  in  reaching  the  frontier  with  one 
living  specimen  out  of  some  half-score.  The 
hunters  frequently  rear  them  in  the  mountains; 
and  they  become  greatly  attached  to  their 
masters,  enlivening  the  camp  with  their  merry 
gambols. 

The  elk,  in  point  of  size,  ranks  next  to  the 
buffalo.  It  is  found  in  all  parts  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  descends  not  unfrequently  far  down 
into  the  plains  in  the  vicinity  of  the  larger 
streams.  A  full-grown  elk  is  as  large  as  a  mule, 
with  rather  a  heavy  neck  and  body,  and  stout 
limbs,  its  feet  leaving  a  track  as  large  as  that 
of  a  two-year-old  steer.  They  are  dull,  sluggish 
animals,  at  least  in  comparison  with  others  of 
the  deer  tribe,  and  are  easily  approached  and 
killed.  In  winter  they  congregate  in  large  herds, 
often  numbering  several  hundreds;  and  at  that 
season  are  fond  of  travelling,  their  track  through 
the  snow  having  the  appearance  of  a  broad 
beaten  road.  The  elk  requires  less  killing  than 
any  other  of  the  deer  tribe  (whose  tenacity  of 
life  is  remarkable) ;  a  shot  anywhere  in  the  fore 


BIG  GAME  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS  211 

part  of  the  animal  brings  it  to  the  ground. 
On  one  occasion  I  killed  two  with  one  ball, 
which  passed  through  the  neck  of  the  first,  and 
struck  the  second,  which  was  standing  a  few 
paces  distant,  through  the  heart :  both  fell  dead. 
A  deer,  on  the  contrary,  often  runs  a  consider- 
able distance,  strike  it  where  you  will.  The 
meat  of  the  elk  is  strong  flavored,  and  more 
like  "poor  bull"  than  venison:  it  is  only  eatable 
when  the  animal  is  fat  and  in  good  condition; 
at  other  times  it  is  strong  tasted  and  stringy. 

The  antelope,  the  smallest  of  the  deer  tribe, 
affords  the  hunter  a  sweet  and  nutritious  meat, 
when  that  of  nearly  every  other  description  of 
game,  from  the  poorness  and  scarcity  of  the 
grass  during  the  winter,  is  barely  eatable. 
They  are  seldom  seen  now  in  very  large  bands 
on  the  grand  prairies,  having  been  driven  from 
their  old  pastures  by  the  Indians  and  white 
hunters.  The  former,  by  means  of  "surrounds," 
an  enclosed  space  formed  in  one  of  the  passes 
used  by  these  animals,  very  often  drive  into  the 
toils  an  entire  band  of  antelope  of  several 
hundreds,  when  not  one  escapes  slaughter. 

I  have  seen  them  on  the  western  sides  of  the 
mountains,  and  in  the  mountain  valleys,  in 
herds  of  several  thousands.  They  are  exceed- 
ingly timid  animals,  but  at  the  same  time 
wonderfully  curious;  and  their  curiosity  very 
often  proves  their  death,  for  the  hunter,  taking 


212     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

advantage  of  this  weakness,  plants  his  wiping- 
stick  in  the  ground,  with  a  cap  or  red  handker- 
chief on  the  point,  and,  concealing  himself  in 
the  long  grass,  waits,  rifle  in  hand,  the  approach 
of  the  inquisitive  antelope,  who,  seeing  an  un- 
usual object  in  the  plain,  trots  up  to  it,  and, 
coming  within  range  of  the  deadly  tube,  pays 
dearly  for  his  temerity.  An  antelope,  when 
alone,  is  one  of  the  stupidest  of  beasts,  and 
becomes  so  confused  and  frightened  at  sight 
of  a  travelling  party,  that  it  frequently  runs 
right  into  the  midst  of  the  danger  it  seeks  to 
avoid. 

I  had  heard  most  wonderful  accounts  from 
the  trappers  of  an  animal,  the  existence  of 
which  was  beyond  all  doubt,  which,  although 
exceedingly  rare,  was  occasionally  met  with  in 
the  mountains,  but,  from  its  supposed  danger- 
ous ferocity,  and  the  fact  of  its  being  a  cross 
between  the  devil  and  a  bear,  was  never 
molested  by  the  Indians  or  white  hunters,  and 
a  wide  berth  given  whenever  the  animal  made 
its  dreaded  appearance.  Most  wonderful  stories 
were  told  of  its  audacity  and  fearlessness;  how  it 
sometimes  jumps  from  an  overhanging  rock  on 
a  deer  or  buffalo,  and,  fastening  on  its  neck, 
soon  brings  it  to  the  ground;  how  it  has  been 
known  to  leap  upon  a  hunter  when  passing 
near  its  place  of  concealment,  and  devour  him 
in  a  twinkling — often  charging  furiously  into  a 


BIG  GAME  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS          213 

camp,  and  playing  all  sorts  of  pranks  on  the 
goods  and  chattels  of  the  mountaineers.  The 
general  belief  was  that  the  animal  owes  its 
paternity  to  the  Old  Gentleman  himself;  but 
the  most  reasonable  declare  it  to  be  a  cross 
between  the  bear  and  wolf. 

Hunting  one  day  with  an  old  Canadian 
trapper,  he  told  me  that,  in  a  part  of  the 
mountains  which  we  were  about  to  visit  on  the 
morrow,  he  once  had  a  battle  with  a  "car- 
cagieu,"  which  lasted  upwards  of  two  hours, 
during  which  he  fired  a  pouchful  of  balls  into 
the  animal's  body,  which  spat  them  out  as  fast 
as  they  were  shot  in.  To  the  truth  of  this 
probable  story  he  called  all  the  saints  to  bear 
witness. 

Two  days  after,  as  we  were  toiling  up  a  steep 
ridge  after  a  band  of  mountain-sheep,  my 
companion,  who  was  in  advance,  suddenly 
threw  himself  flat  behind  a  rock,  and  exclaimed 
in  a  smothered  tone,  signalling  me  with  his 
hand  to  keep  down  and  conceal  myself,  "Sacre 
enfant  de  Garce,  mais  here's  von  dam  car- 
cagieu!" 

I  immediately  cocked  my  rifle,  and,  advancing 
to  the  rock,and  peeping  over  it,  saw  an  animal, 
about  the  size  of  a  large  badger,  engaged  in 
scraping  up  the  earth  about  a  dozen  paces 
from  where  we  were  concealed.  Its  color  was 
dark,  almost  black;  its  body  long,  and  apparently 


214       WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

tailless;  and  I  at  once  recognized  the  mysterious 
beast  to  be  a  "glutton."  After  I  had  sufficiently 
examined  the  animal,  I  raised  my  rifle  to  shoot, 
when  a  louder  than  common  "Enfant  de  Garce" 
from  my  companion  alarmed  the  animal,  and 
it  immediately  ran  off,  when  I  stood  up  and 
fired  both  barrels  after  it,  but  without  effect; 
the  attempt  exciting  a  derisive  laugh  from  the 
Canadian,  who  exclaimed,  "Pe  gar,  may  be  you 
got  fifty  balls;  vel,  shoot  'em  all  at  de  dam 
carcagieu,  and  he  not  care  a  dam!" 

The  skins  of  these  animals  are  considered 
"great  medicine"  by  the  Indians,  and  will 
fetch  almost  any  price.  They  are  very  rarely 
met  with  on  the  plains,  preferring  the  upland 
valleys  and  broken  ground  of  the  mountains, 
which  afford  them  a  better  field  for  their  method 
of  securing  game,  which  is  by  lying  in  wait 
behind  a  rock,  or  on  the  steep  bank  of  a  ravine, 
concealed  by  a  tree  or  shrub,  until  a  deer  or 
antelope  passes  underneath,  when  they  spring 
upon  the  animal's  back,  and,  holding  on  with 
their  strong  and  sharp  claws,  which  they  bury 
in  the  flesh,  soon  bring  it  bleeding  to  the  ground. 
The  Indians  say  they  are  purely  carnivorous; 
but  I  imagine  that,  like  the  bear,  they  not 
unfrequently  eat  fruit  and  roots,  when  animal 
food  is  not  to  be  had. 

I  have  said  that  the  mountain  wolves,  and, 
still  more  so,  the  coyote  of  the  plains,  are  less 


BIG  GAME  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS          215 

frightened  at  the  sight  of  man  than  any  other 
beast.  One  night,  when  encamped  on  an  affluent 
of  the  Platte,  a  heavy  snow-storm  falling  at 
the  time,  I  lay  down  in  my  blanket,  after  first 
heaping  on  the  fire  a  vast  pile  of  wood,  to  burn 
till  morning.  In  the  middle  of  the  night  I  was 
awakened  by  the  excessive  cold,  and,  turning 
towards  the  fire,  which  was  burning  bright  and 
cheerfully,  what  was  my  astonishment  to  see 
a  large  grey  wolf  sitting  quietly  before  it,  his 
eyes  closed,  and  his  head  nodding  in  sheer 
drowsiness!  Although  I  had  frequently  seen 
wolves  evince  their  disregard  to  fires,  by  coming 
within  a  few  feet  of  them  to  seize  upon  any 
scraps  of  meat  which  might  be  left  exposed,  I 
had  never  seen  or  heard  of  one  approaching  so 
close  as  to  warm  his  body,  and  for  that  purpose 
alone.  However,  I  looked  at  him  for  some 
moments  without  disturbing  the  beast,  and 
closed  my  eyes  and  went  to  sleep,  leaving  him 
to  the  quiet  enjoyment  of  the  blaze. 

This  is  not  very  wonderful  when  I  mention 
that  it  is  a  very  common  thing  for  these  animals 
to  gnaw  the  straps  of  a  saddle  on  which  your 
head  is  reposing  for  a  pillow. 

When  I  turned  my  horse's  head  from  Pike's 
Peak  I  quite  regretted  the  abandonment  of  my 
mountain  life,  solitary  as  it  was,  and  more  than 
once  thought  of  again  taking  the  trail  to  the  Bayou 
Salado,  where  I  had  enjoyed  such  good  sport. 


216     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

Apart  from  the  feeling  of  loneliness  which 
any  one  in  my  situation  must  naturally  have 
experienced,  surrounded  by  stupendous  works 
of  nature,  which  in  all  their  solitary  grandeur 
frowned  upon  me,  and  sinking  into  utter  in- 
significance the  miserable  mortal  who  crept 
beneath  their  shadow;  still  there  was  something 
inexpressibly  exhilarating  in  the  sensation  of 
positive  freedom  from  all  worldly  care,  and  a 
consequent  expansion  of  the  sinews,  as  it  were, 
of  mind  and  body,  which  made  me  feel  elastic 
as  a  ball  of  Indian  rubber,  and  in  a  state  of 
such  perfect  insouciance  that  no  more  dread 
of  scalping  Indians  entered  my  mind  than  if  I 
had  been  sitting  in  Broadway,  in  one  of  the 
windows  of  Astor  House.  A  citizen  of  the  world, 
I  never  found  any  difficulty  in  investing  my 
resting-place,  wherever  it  might  be,  with  all 
the  attributes  of  a  home;  and  hailed,  with 
delight  equal  to  that  which  the  artificial  com- 
forts of  a  civilized  home  would  have  caused,  the, 
to  me,  domestic  appearance  of  my  hobbled 
animals,  as  they  grazed  around  the  camp,  when 
I  returned  after  a  hard  day's  hunt.  By  the  way, 
I  may  here  remark  that  my  sporting  feelings 
underwent  a  great  change  when  I  was  neces- 
sitated to  follow  and  kill  game  for  the  support  of 
life,  and  as  a  means  of  subsistence;  and  the 
slaughter  of  deer  and  buffalo  no  longer  became 
sport  when  the  object  was  to  fill  the  larder,  and 


BIG  GAME  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS          217 

the  excitement  of  the  hunt  was  occasioned  by 
the  alternative  of  a  plentiful  feast  or  a  banyan; 
and,  although  ranking  under  the  head  of  the 
most  redhot  of  sportsmen,  I  can  safely  acquit 
myself  of  ever  wantonly  destroying  a  deer  or 
buffalo  unless  I  was  in  need  of  meat;  and  such 
consideration  for  the  ferae  naturae  is  common 
to  all  the  mountaineers  who  look  to  game  alone 
for  their  support 

Although  liable  to  an  accusation  of  barbarism, 
I  must  confess  that  the  very  happiest  moments 
of  my  life  have  been  spent  in  the  wilderness  of 
the  Far  West;  and  I  never  recall  but  with 
pleasure  the  remembrance  of  my  solitary  camp 
in  the  Bayou  Salado,  with  no  friend  near  me 
more  faithful  than  my  rifle,  and  no  companions 
more  sociable  than  my  good  horse  and  mules,  or 
the  attendant  coyote  which  nightly  serenaded 
us.  With  a  plentiful  supply  of  dry  pine-logs  on 
the  fire,  and  its  cheerful  blaze  streaming  far  up 
into  the  sky,  illuminating  the  valley  far  and 
near,  and  exhibiting  the  animals,  with  well- 
filled  bellies,  standing  contentedly  at  rest  over 
their  picket-pins,  I  would  sit  cross-legged 
enjoying  the  genial  warmth,  and,  pipe  in  mouth, 
watch  the  blue  smoke  as  it  curled  upwards, 
building  castles  in  its  vapory  wreaths,  and,  in 
the  fantastic  shapes  it  assumed,  peopling  the 
solitude  with  figures  of  those  far  away.  Scarcely 
however,  did  I  ever  wish  to  change  such  hours 


218     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

of  freedom  for  all  the  luxuries  of  civilized  life, 
and,  unnatural  and  extraordinary  as  it  may 
appear,  yet  such  is  the  fascination  of  the  life  of 
the  mountain  hunter,  that  I  believe  not  one 
instance  could  be  adduced  of  even  the  most 
polished  and  civilized  of  men,  who  had  once 
tasted  the  sweets  of  its  attendant  liberty  and 
freedom  from  every  worldly  care,  not  regretting 
the  moment  when  he  exchanged  it  for  the  monot- 
onous We  of  the  settlements,  nor  sighing,  and 
sighing  again,  once  more  to  partake  of  its 
pleasures  and  allurements. 

Nothing  can  be  more  social  and  cheering 
than  the  welcome  blaze  of  the  camp  fire  on  a 
cold  winter's  night,  and  nothing  more  amusing 
or  entertaining,  if  not  instructive,  than  the 
rough  conversation  of  the  single-minded  moun- 
taineers, whose  simple  daily  talk  is  all  of  exciting 
adventure,  since  their  whole  existence  is  spent 
in  scenes  of  peril  and  privation;  and  conse- 
quently the  narration  of  their  every-day  life 
is  a  tale  of  thrilling  accidents  and  hair-breadth 
'scapes,  which,  though  simple  matter-of-fact  to 
them,  appear  a  startling  romance  to  those  who 
are  not  acquainted  with  the  nature  of  the  lives 
led  by  these  men,  who,  with  the  sky  for  a  roof 
and  their  rifles  to  supply  them  with  food  and 
clothing,  call  no  man  lord  or  master,  and  are 
free  as  the  game  they  follow. 

A  hunter's  camp  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  is 


BIG  GAME  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS          219 

quite  a  picture.  He  does  not  always  take  the 
trouble  to  build  any  shelter  unless  it  is  in  the 
snow  season,  when  a  couple  of  deerskins 
stretched  over  a  willow  frame  shelter  him  from 
the  storm.  At  other  seasons  he  is  content  with 
a  mere  breakwind.  Near  at  hand  are  two 
upright  poles,  with  another  supported  on  the 
top  of  these,  on  which  is  displayed,  out  of  reach 
of  hungry  wolf  or  coyote,  meat  of  every  variety 
the  mountains  afford.  Buffalo  depouilles,  hams 
of  deer  and  mountain-sheep,  beaver-tails,  &c., 
stock  the  larder.  Under  the  shelter  of  the  skins 
hang  his  powder-horn  and  bullet-pouch;  while 
his  rifle,  carefully  defended  from  the  damp,  is 
always  within  reach  of  his  arm.  Round  the 
blazing  fire  the  hunters  congregate  at  night, 
and  whilst  cleaning  their  rifles,  making  or 
mending  mocassins,  or  running  bullets,  spin 
long  yarns  of  their  hunting  exploits,  &c. 

Some  hunters,  who  have  married  Indian 
squaws,  carry  about  with  them  the  Indian 
lodge  of  buffalo-skins,  which  are  stretched  in  a 
conical  form  round  a  frame  of  poles.  Near  the 
camp  is  always  seen  the  "graining-block,"  a  log 
of  wood  with  the  bark  stripped  and  perfectly 
smooth,  which  is  planted  obliquely  in  the 
ground,  and  on  which  the  hair  is  removed  from 
the  skins  to  prepare  them  for  being  dressed. 
There  are  also  "stretching-frames,"  on  which 
the  skins  are  placed  to  undergo  the  process  of 


220     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

dubbing,  which  is  the  removal  of  the  flesh  and 
fatty  particles  adhering  to  the  skin,  by  means 
of  the  "dubber,"  an  instrument  made  of  the 
stock  of  an  elk's  horn.  The  last  process  is  the 
"smoking,"  which  is  effected  by  digging  a 
round  hole  in  the  ground  and  lighting  in  it  an 
armful  of  rotten  wood  or  punk.  Three  sticks 
are  then  planted  round  the  hole,  and  their  tops 
brought  together  and  tied.  The  skin  is  then 
placed  on  this  frame,  and  all  the  holes  by  which 
the  smoke  might  escape  carefully  stopped:  in 
ten  or  twelve  hours  the  skin  is  thoroughly 
smoked  and  ready  for  immediate  use. 

The  camp  is  invariably  made  in  a  picturesque 
locality,  for  like  the  Indian,  the  white  hunter 
has  ever  an  eye  to  the  beautiful.  The  broken 
ground  of  the  mountains,  with  their  numerous 
tumbling  and  babbling  rivulets,  and  groves 
and  thickets  of  shrubs  and  timber,  always  afford 
shelter  from  the  boisterous  winds  of  winter,  and 
abundance  of  fuel  and  water.  Facing  the 
rising  sun  the  hunter  invariably  erects  his 
shanty,  with  a  wall  of  precipitous  rock  in  rear 
to  defend  it  from  the  gusts  which  often  sweep 
down  the  gorges  of  the  mountains.  Round  the 
camp  his  animals,  well  hobbled  at  night,  feed 
within  sight,  for  nothing  does  a  hunter  dread 
more  than  a  visit  from  the  horse-stealing 
Indians;  and  to  be  "afoot"  is  the  acme  of  his 
misery. 


CHAPTER  XII 

BIRDS  OF  PASSAGE  AT  BENT'S  FORT 

WHEN  I  returned  to  the  Arkansa  I 
found  a  small  party  were  making  prepar- 
ations to  cross  the  grand  prairie  to  the 
United  States,  intending  to  start  on  the  1st  of 
May,  before  which  time  there  would  not  be  a 
sufficiency  of  grass  to  support  the  animals  on 
the  way.  With  these  men  I  determined  to  travel, 
and  in  the  mean  time  employed  myself  in 
hunting  on  the  "Wet  Mountain,"  and  Fisher's 
Hole,  a  valley  at  the  head  of  St.  Charles,  as 
well  as  up  the  Arkansa  itself.  I  observed  in 
these  excursions  that  vegetation  was  in  a  much 
more  forward  state  in  the  mountain  valleys  and 
the  prairies  contiguous  to  their  bases  than  on 
the  open  plains,  and  that  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  "pueblo"  it  was  still  more  backward  than 
in  any  other  spot;  on  the  15th  of  April  not  a 
blade  of  green  grass  having  as  yet  made  its 
appearance  round  the  fort.  This  was  not  from 
the  effects  of  drought,  for  several  refreshing 
showers  had  fallen  since  the  disappearance  of 
the  snow;  neither  was  there  any  apparent 

difference  in  the  soil,  which  is  a  rich  loam,  and 
221 


222     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

in  the  river-bottom,  an  equally  rich  vegetable 
mould.  At  this  time,  when  the  young  grass 
had  not  yet  appeared  here,  it  was  several  inches 
high  on  the  mountains  and  upland  prairies, 
and  the  cherry  and  currant  bushes  on  the 
creeks  were  bursting  into  leaf. 

Amongst  the  wives  of  the  mountaineers  in 
the  fort  was  one  Mexican  woman  from  the 
state  of  Durango,  who  had  been  carried  off  by 
the  Comanches  in  one  of  their  raids  into  that 
department.  Remaining  with  them  several 
years,  she  eventually  accompanied  a  party  of 
Kioways  (allies  of  the  Comanche)  to  Bent's 
Fort  on  the  Arkansa.  Here  she  was  purchased 
from  them  and  became  the  wife  of  Hawkens, 
who  afterwards  removed  from  Bent's  and  took 
up  his  abode  at  the  "pueblo,"  and  was  my 
hospitable  host  while  on  the  Arkansa.  It 
appeared  that  her  Mexican  husband,  by  some 
means  or  another,  heard  that  she  had  reached 
Bent's  Fort,  and,  impelled  by  affection,  under- 
took the  long  journey  of  upwards  of  fifteen 
hundred  miles  to  recover  his  lost  wife.  In 
the  meantime,  however,  she  had  borne  her 
American  husband  a  daughter,  and  when  her 
first  spouse  claimed  her  as  his  own,  and  wished 
her  to  accompany  him  back  to  her  own  country, 
she  only  consented  on  condition  that  she  might 
carry  with  her  the  child,  from  which  she 
steadily  refused  to  be  separated.  The  father, 


BIRDS  OF  PASSAGE  AT  BENT'S  FORT     223 

however,  turned  a  deaf  ear  to  this  request,  and 
eventually  the  poor  Durangueno  returned  to 
his  home  alone,  his  spouse  preferring  to  share 
the  buffalo-rib  and  venison  with  her  mountaineer 
before  the  frijole  and  chile  Colorado  of  the 
bereaved  ranchero. 

Three  or  four  Taos  women,  and  as  many 
squaws  of  every  nation,  comprised  the  "female 
society"  on  the  Upper  Arkansa,  giving  good 
promise  of  peopling  the  river  with  a  sturdy 
race  of  half-breeds,  if  all  the  little  dusky 
buffalo-fed  urchins  who  played  about  the  corral 
of  the  fort  arrived  scathless  at  maturity. 

Amongst  the  hunters  on  the  Upper  Arkansa 
were  four  Delaware  Indians,  the  remnant  of  a 
band  who  had  been  trapping  for  several  years 
in  the  mountains,  and  many  of  whom  had  been 
killed  by  hostile  Indians,  or  in  warfare  with  the 
Apaches  while  in  the  employ  of  the  states  of 
New  Mexico  and  Chihuahua.  Their  names  were 
Jim  Dicky,  Jim  Swannick,  Little  Beaver,  and 
Big  Nigger.  The  last  had  married  a  squaw  from 
the  Taos  pueblo,  and,  happening  to  be  in  New 
Mexico  with  his  spouse  at  the  time  of  the  late 
rising  against  the  Americans,  he  very  naturally 
took  part  with  the  people  by  whom  he  had  been 
adopted. 

In  the  attack  on  the  Indian  pueblo  it  was  said 
that  Big  Nigger  particularly  distinguished 
himself,  calling  by  name  to  several  of  the 


224     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

mountain-men  who  were  amongst  the  attacking 
party,  and  inviting  them  to  come  near  enough 
for  him,  the  Big  Nigger,  to  "throw  them  in 
their  tracks."  And  this  feat  he  affected  more 
than  once,  to  the  cost  of  the  assailants,  for  it  was 
said  that  the  Delaware  killed  nearly  all  who  fell 
on  the  side  of  the  Americans,  his  squaw  loading 
his  rifle  and  encouraging  him  in  the  fight. 

By  some  means  or  another  he  escaped  after 
the  capture  of  the  pueblo,  and  made  his  way 
to  the  mountains  on  the  Arkansa;  but  as  it  was 
reported  that  a  price  was  put  upon  his  head,  he 
retired  in  company  with  the  other  Delawares 
to  the  mountains,  where  they  all  lay  perdu  for 
a  time;  and  it  was  pretty  well  understood  that 
any  one  feeling  inclined  to  reap  the  reward  by 
the  capture  of  Big  Nigger,  would  be  under  the 
necessity  of  "taking  him,"  and  with  every 
probability  of  catching  a  Tartar  at  the  same 
time,  the  three  other  Delawares  having  taken 
the  delinquent  under  the  protection  of  their 
rifles.  Although  companions  of  the  American 
and  Canadian  hunters  for  many  years,  anything 
but  an  entente  cordiale  existed  towards  their 
white  confreres  on  the  part  of  the  Delawares, 
who  knew  very  well  that  anything  in  the  shape 
of  Indian  blood  is  looked  upon  with  distrust  and 
contempt  by  the  white  hunters. 

Tharpe,  an  Indian  trader,  who  had  just 
returned  from  the  Cheyenne  village  at  the 


BIRDS  OF  PASSAGE  AT  BENT'S  FORT     225 

"Big  Timber"  on  the  Arkansa,  had  purchased 
from  some  Kioways  two  prisoners,  a  Mexican 
and  an  American  negro.  The  former  had  been 
carried  off  by  the  Comanches  from  Durango 
when  about  seven  years  old,  had  almost  entirely 
forgotten  his  own  tongue,  and  neither  knew 
his  own  age  nor  what  length  of  time  he  had  been 
a  captive  amongst  the  Indians.  The  degraded 
and  miserable  existence  led  by  this  poor  creature 
had  almost  obliterated  all  traces  of  humanity 
from  his  character  and  appearance.  Probably 
not  more  than  twenty-five  years  of  age,  he  was 
already  wrinkled  and  haggard  in  his  face, 
which  was  that  of  a  man  of  threescore  years. 
Wrapped  in  a  dirty  blanket,  with  his  long  hair 
streaming  over  his  shoulders,  he  skulked,  like 
some  savage  animal,  in  holes  and  corners  of 
the  fort,  seeming  to  shun  his  fellow-men,  in  a 
consciousness  of  his  abject  and  degraded  con- 
dition. At  night  he  would  be  seen  with  his  face 
close  to  the  rough  doors  of  the  rooms,  peering 
through  the  cracks,  and  envying  the  (to  him) 
unusual  luxury  within.  When  he  observed 
anyone  approach  the  door,  he  instantly  with- 
drew and  concealed  himself  in  the  darkness 
until  he  passed.  A  present  of  tobacco,  now  and 
then,  won  for  me  the  confidence  of  the  poor 
fellow,  and  I  gathered  from  him,  in  broken 
Spanish  mixed  with  Indian,  an  account  of  his 
miseries. 


226     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

I  sat  with  him  one  night  on  a  log  in  the  corral, 
as  he  strove  to  make  me  understand  that  once, 
long,  long  ago,  he  had  been  "muy  rico — very 
rich";  that  he  lived  in  a  house  where  was  always 
a  fire  like  that  burning  within,  and  where  he 
used  to  sit  on  his  mother's  lap;  and  this  fact 
he  repeated  over  and  over  again,  thinking  that 
to  show  that  once  affectionate  regard  had  been 
bestowed  upon  him,  was  to  prove  that  he  had 
been  at  one  time  an  important  personage.  "Me 
quiso  mucho,  mucho"  he  said,  speaking  of  his 
mother — "she  loved  me  very,  very  much;  and 
I  had  good  clothes  and  plenty  to  eat;  but  that 
was  many,  many  moons  ago." 

"Mire,"  he  continued,  "from  this  size," 
putting  his  hand  out  about  three  feet  from  the 
ground — "ni  padre,  ni  madre,  ni  amigos  he 
tenido  yo" — neither  father,  mother,  nor  friends 
have  I  had;  "pero  patadas,  bastante — but 
plenty  of  kicks,"  y  poca  came — and  very  little 
meat." 

I  asked  him  if  he  had  no  wish  to  return  to  his 
own  country.  His  haggard  face  lighted  up 
for  an  instant,  as  the  dim  memory  of  his  child- 
hood's home  returned  to  his  callous  mind. 
"Ay,  Dios  mio!"  he  exclaimed,  "sifuera  posible 
— Ah,  my  God,  if  it  were  possible!"  "But  no," 
he  continued  after  a  pause,  "estoy  ahora  muy 
bruto,  y  asi  no  me  quadrara  a  ver  mi  madre — I 
am  now  no  more  than  a  brute,  and  in  this 


BIRDS  OF  PASSAGE  AT  BENT'S  FORT     227 

state  would  not  like  to  see  my  mother.  Y  de 
mas — and  moreover — my  compadre,"  as  he 
called  the  man  who  had  purchased  him,  "is 
going  to  give  me  a  shirt  and  a  sombrero;  what 
can  I  want  more?  Vaya,  es  mejor  asi — it  is 
better  as  it  is."  One  night  he  accosted  me  in 
the  corral  in  an  unusual  degree  of  excitement. 

"Mire!"  he  exclaimed,  seizing  me  by  the  arm, 
"look  here!  estoy  boracho — I  am  drunk!  Me  dio 
mi  compadre  un  pedazo  de  aguardiente — my 
godfather  has  given  me  a  bit  of  brandy.  Y 
estoy  tan  feliz,  y  ligero!  como  paxaro9  como 
pa-x-ar-o" — he  hiccuped — "and  I  am  as  happy 
and  as  light  as  a  bird.  Me  vuelo — I  am  flying. 
Me  dicen  que  estoy  boracho:  ay  que  palabra 
bonita! — they  tell  me  I  am  drunk:  drunk — 
what  a  beautiful  word  is  this!  En  mi  vida, 
nunca  he  sentido  como  ahora — never  in  my  life 
have  I  felt  as  I  do  now."  And  the  poor  wretch 
covered  his  head  with  a  blanket,  and  laughed 
long  and  loud  at  the  trick  he  had  played  his 
old  friend  misery. 

The  negro,  on  the  contrary,  was  a  character- 
istic specimen  of  his  race,  always  laughing, 
singing,  and  dancing,  and  cutting  uncouth 
capers.  He  had  been  a  slave  in  the  semi- 
civilized  Cherokee  nation,  and  had  been  cap- 
tured by  the  Comanches,  as  he  himself  declared, 
but  most  probably  had  run  away  from  his 
master,  and  joined  them  voluntarily.  He  was  a 


228     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

musician,  and  of  course  could  play  the  fiddle; 
and  having  discovered  an  old  weather-beaten 
instrument  in  the  fort,  Lucy  Neal,  Old  Dan 
Tucker,  and  Buffalo  Gals,  were  heard  at  all 
hours  of  the  day  and  night;  and  he  was,  more- 
over, installed  into  the  Weippert  of  the  fan- 
dangos which  frequently  took  place  in  the  fort, 
when  the  hunters  with  their  squaws  were  at 
the  rendezvous. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  April  green  grass 
began  to  show  itself  in  the  bottoms,  and  myself 
and  two  others,  who  had  been  wintering  in  the 
mountains  for  the  benefit  of  their  health,  made 
preparations  for  our  departure  to  the  United 
States.  Pack-saddles  were  inspected  and  re- 
paired, apishamores  made,  lariats  and  lassos 
greased  and  stretched,  mules  and  horses  collected 
from  their  feeding-grounds,  and  their  fore  feet 
shod.  A  small  supply  of  meat  was  ''made" 
(i.  e.  cut  into  thin  flaps  and  dried  in  the  sun), 
to  last  until  we  reached  the  buffalo-range; 
rifles  put  in  order,  and  balls  run;  hobbles  cut 
out  of  rawhide,  parfleche  moccasins*  cobbled  up, 
deerskin  hunting-shirts  and  pantaloons  patched, 
and  all  our  very  primitive  "kit"  overhauled  to 
render  it  serviceable  for  the  journey  across  the 
grand  prairies,  while  the  "possible-sack"  was 
lightened  of  all  superfluities — an  easy  task  by 
the  way.  When  everything  was  ready  I  was 

*  Moccasins  soled  with  rawhide.    (Ed.) 


BIRDS  OF  PASSAGE  AT  BENT'S  FORT     229 

delayed  several  days  in  hunting  up  my  animals. 
The  Indian  traders  having  arrived,  bringing 
with  them  large  herds  of  mules  and  horses,  my 
mules  had  become  separated  from  the  horse  and 
from  one  another,  and  it  was  with  no  small 
difficulty  that  I  succeeded  in  finding  and 
securing  them.  Having  once  tasted  the  green 
grass,  they  became  so  wild,  that,  at  my  appear- 
ance, lasso  in  hand,  the  cunning  animals, 
knowing  full  well  what  was  in  store  for  them, 
threw  up  their  heels  and  scampered  away, 
defying  for  a  long  time  all  my  efforts  to  catch 
them. 

My  two  companions  had  left  the  United 
States  the  preceding  year,  having  been  recom- 
mended to  try  the  effect  of  change  of  climate  on 
a  severe  pulmonary  disease  under  which  both 
labored.  Indeed,  they  were  both  apparently 
in  a  rapid  consumption,  and  their  medical 
advisers  had  given  up  any  hope  of  seeing  them 
restored  to  health.  They  had  remained  in  the 
mountains  during  one  of  the  severest  winters 
ever  known,  had  lived  upon  game,  and  fre- 
quently suffered  the  privations  attendant  upon 
a  mountain  life,  and  now  were  returning  per- 
fectly restored,  and  in  robust  health  and  spirits. 

It  is  an  extraordinary  fact  that  the  air  of  the 
mountains  has  a  wonderfully  restorative  effect 
upon  constitutions  enfeebled  by  pulmonary 
disease;  and  of  my  own  knowledge  I  could 


230     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

mention  a  hundred  instances  where  persons, 
whose  cases  have  been  pronounced  by  eminent 
practitioners  as  perfectly  hopeless,  have  been 
restored  to  comparatively  sound  health  by  a 
sojourn  in  the  pure  and  bracing  air  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  are  now  alive  to  testify 
to  the  effects  of  the  revigorating  climate. 

That  the  lungs  are  most  powerfully  acted 
upon  by  the  rarified  air  of  these  elevated  regions, 
I  myself,  in  common  with  the  acclimated 
hunters,  who  experience  the  same  effects,  can 
bear  witness,  as  it  is  almost  impossible  to  take 
violent  exercise  on  foot,  the  lungs  feeling  as  if 
they  were  bursting  in  the  act  of  breathing,  and 
consequently  the  hunters  invariably  follow  game 
on  horseback,  although,  from  being  inured  to 
the  climate,  they  might  be  supposed  to  experi- 
ence these  symptoms  in  a  lesser  degree. 

Whatever  may  be  urged  against  such  a 
climate,  the  fact  nevertheless  remains,  that  the 
lungs  are  thus  powerfully  affected  and  that  the 
violent  action  has  a  most  beneficial  effect  upon 
these  organs  when  in  a  highly  diseased  state. 

The  elevation  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  of 
the  plains  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  is  about 
four  thousand  feet,  while  the  mountain  valley  of 
the  Bayou  Salado  must  reach  an  elevation  of  at 
least  eight  or  nine  thousand,  and  Pike's  Peak 
has  been  estimated  to  exceed  twelve  thousand.* 

*  Elevation  of  Pike's  Peak,  14, 108  feet.     (Ed.) 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

HEADING  FOR  HOME 

ON  the  30th  of  April  [1847],  having  the 
day  before  succeeded  in  collecting  my 
truant  mulada,  I  proceeded  alone  to  the 
forks  of  the  Arkansa  and  St.  Charles,  where  I 
had  observed,  when  hunting,  that  the  grass 
was  in  better  condition  than  near  the  pueblo, 
and  here  I  remained  two  or  three  days,  the 
animals  faring  well  on  the  young  grass,  waiting 
for  my  two  companions,  who  were  to  proceed 
with  me  across  the  grand  prairies.  As,  however, 
the  trail  was  infested  by  the  Pawnees  and 
Comanche,  who  had  attacked  every  party 
which  had  attempted  to  cross  from  Santa  Fe 
during  the  last  six  months,  and  carried  off  all 
their  animals,  it  was  deemed  prudent  to  wait 
for  the  escort  of  Tharpe,  the  Indian  trader,  who 
was  about  to  proceed  to  St.  Louis  with  the 
peltries,  the  produce  of  his  winter  trade;  and 
as  he  would  be  accompanied  by  a  large  escort 
of  mountain-men,  we  resolved  to  remain  and 
accompany  his  party  for  the  security  it  afforded. 
The  night  I  encamped  on  the  St.  Charles  the 

rain  poured  down  in  torrents,  accompanied  by  a 
231 


232     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

storm  of  thunder  and  lightning,  and  the  next 
morning  I  was  comfortably  lying  in  a  pool  of 
water,  having  been  exposed  to  the  full  force  of 
the  storm.  This  was,  however,  merely  a  break- 
ing in  for  a  continuation  of  wet  weather,  which 
lasted  fifteen  days  without  intermission,  and  at 
short  intervals  followed  us  to  the  Missouri, 
during  which  time  I  had  the  pleasure  of  diurnal 
and  nocturnal  shower-baths,  and  was  for  thirty 
days  undergoing  a  natural  hydropathic  course  of 
wet  clothes  and  blankets,  my  bed  being  the 
bare  prairie,  and  nothing  between  me  and  the 
reservoir  above  but  a  single  sarape. 

On  the  2nd  of  May  my  two  fellow-travellers 
arrived  with  the  intelligence  that  Tharpe  could 
not  leave  until  a  trading-party  from  the  north 
fork  of  the  Platte  came  in  to  Arkansa,  and 
consequently  we  started  the  next  day  alone.  I 
may  here  mention  that  Tharpe  started  two 
days  after  us,  and  was  killed  on  Walnut  Creek 
by  the  Pawnees,  while  hunting  buffalo  at  a 
little  distance  from  camp.  He  was  scalped  and 
horribly  mutilated. 

The  night  before  our  departure  the  wolves 
ate  up  all  the  riatas  by  which  our  mules  and 
horses  were  picketed;  and  in  the  morning  all  the 
animals  had  disappeared  but  one.  We  saw  by 
the  tracks  that  they  had  been  stampeded;  and, 
as  a  very  suspicious  moccasin-track  was  dis- 
covered near  the  river,  we  feared  that  the 


HEADING  FOR  HOME  233 

Arapahos  had  paid  a  visit  to  themulada.  One 
of  my  mules,  however,  was  picketed  very  near 
the  camp,  and  was  safe;  and,  mounting  her,  I 
followed  the  track  of  the  others  across  the  river, 
and  had  the  good  fortune  to  find  them  all 
quietly  feeding  in  the  prairie,  with  the  ropes 
eaten  off  to  their  very  throats.  This  day  we 
proceeded  about  twenty-five  miles  down  the 
river,  camping  in  the  bottom  in  a  tope  of  cotton- 
woods,  the  rain  pouring  upon  us  all  night. 

The  next  day  we  still  followed  the  stream, 
and  encamped  about  four  miles  above  Bent's 
Fort,*  which  we  reached  the  next  morning, 
and  most  opportunely,  as  a  company  of  wagons 
belonging  to  the  United  States  commissariat 
were  at  the  very  moment  getting  under  way  for 
the  Missouri.  They  had  brought  out  provisions 
for  the  troops  forming  the  Santa  Fe  division  of 
the  army  of  invasion,  and  were  now  on  their 
return,  empty,  to  Fort  Leavenworth,  under  the 
charge  of  Captain ,  of  the  Quartermaster- 
General's  department,  who  at  once  gave  us 
permission  to  join  his  company,  which  con- 
sisted of  twenty  wagons,  and  as  many  teamsters, 
well  armed.  A  government  train  of  wagons  had 
been  attacked,  on  their  way  to  Santa  Fe,  the 
preceding  winter,  by  the  Pawnees,  and  the 
whole  party — men,  mules,  and  wagons — cap- 

*  Bent's  Fort  was  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Arkansas,  650  miles 
west  of  Fort  Leavenworth.  (Ed.) 


234     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

tured;  the  men,  however,  being  allowed  to 
continue  their  journey,  without  wagons  or 
animals.  They  had  likewise  lately  attacked  a 
party  under  Kit  Carson,  the  celebrated  moun- 
taineer, who  was  carrying  despatches  from 
Colonel  Fremont,  in  California,  to  the  govern- 
ment of  the  United  States,  and  in  fact  every 
party  who  had  passed  the  plains;  therefore,  as  a 
large  number  of  loose  stock  was  also  to  be 
carried  in  with  the  wagons,  an  attack  was  more 
than  probable  during  the  journey  to  the  frontier. 

Bent's  Fort  is  a  square  building  of  adobe, 
flanked  by  circular  bastions  loopholed  for 
musketry,  and  entered  by  a  large  gateway 
leading  into  the  corral  or  yard.  Round  this  are 
the  rooms  inhabited  by  the  people  engaged  in 
the  Indian  trade;  but  at  this  time  the  Messrs. 
Bent  themselves  were  absent  in  Santa  Fe,  the 
eldest  brother,  as  I  have  before  mentioned, 
having  been  killed  in  Taos  during  the  insurrec- 
tion of  the  Pueblo  Indians.  We  here  procured 
a  small  supply  of  dried  buffalo-meat,  which 
would  suffice  until  we  came  to  the  buffalo-range, 
when  sufficient  meat  might  be  procured  to  carry 
us  into  the  States. 

We  started  about  noon,  proceeding  the  first 
day  about  ten  miles,  and  camped  at  sundown 
opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Purgatoire — the 
Pickatwaire  of  the  mountaineers,  and  Las 
Animas  of  the  New  Mexicans — an  affluent  of 


HEADING  FOR  HOME  235 

the  Arkansa,  rising  in  the  mountains  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Spanish  Peaks.  The  timber  on 
the  Arkansa  becomes  scarcer  as  we  proceed 
down  the  river,  the  cottonwood  groves  being 
scattered  wide  apart  at  some  distance  from 
each  other;  and  the  stream  itself  widens  out 
into  sandy  shallows,  dotted  with  small  islands 
covered  with  brush.  At  this  camp  we  were 
joined  by  six  or  seven  of  Fremont's  men,  who 
had  accompanied  Kit  Carson  from  California; 
but,  their  animals  "giving  out"  here,  they  had 
remained  behind  to  recruit  them.  They  were 
all  fine,  hardy-looking  young  fellows,  with  their 
faces  browned  by  two  years'  constant  exposure 
to  the  sun  and  wind,  and  were  fine  specimens 
of  mountaineers.  They  were  accompanied  by  a 
Californian  Indian,  a  young  centaur,  who 
handled  his  lasso  with  a  dexterity  which  threw 
all  the  Mexican  exploits  I  had  previously  seen 
into  the  shade,  and  was  the  means  of  bereaving 
several  cows  of  their  calves  when  we  were  in  the 
buffalo-range. 

Our  next  camping-place  was  the  "Big 
Timber,"  a  large  grove  of  cotton  woods  on  the 
left  bant  of  the  river,  and  a  favorite  wintering- 
place  of  the  Cheyennes.  Their  camp  was  now 
broken  up,  and  the  village  had  removed  to  the 
Platte  for  their  summer  hunt.  The  debris  of 
their  fires  and  lodges  were  plentifully  scattered 
about,  and  some  stray  horses  were  running 


236     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

about  the  bottom.  On  the  5th  and  6th  we 
moved  leisurely  down  the  river,  camping  at 
Sandy  Creek,  and  in  the  "Salt  Bottom,"  a 
large  plain  covered  with  salitrose  efflorescences. 
Here  we  proceeded  more  cautiously,  as  we 
were  now  in  the  outskirt  of  the  Pawnee  and 
Comanche  country.  The  wagons  at  night  were 
drawn  up  into  a  square,  and  the  mules  enclosed 
after  sunset  within  the  corral.  Mine,  however, 
took  their  chance  outside,  being  always  picketed 
near  my  sleeping-place,  which  I  invariably 
selected  in  the  middle  of  a  good  patch  of  grass, 
in  order  that  they  might  feed  well  during  the 
night.  A  guard  was  also  placed  over  the  corral, 
and  everyone  slept  with  his  rifle  at  his  side. 

Near  the  Salt  Bottom,  but  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river,  I  this  day  saw  seven  bulls, 
the  advance  party  of  the  innumerable  bands 
of  buffalo  we  shortly  passed  through. 

On  the  7th,  as  I  rode  two  or  three  miles  in 
advance  of  the  party,  followed  by  my  mules,  I 
came  upon  fresh  Indian  sign,  where  a  village 
had  just  passed,  with  their  lodge-poles  trailing 
on  the  ground;  and  presently,  in  a  level  bottom 
on  the  river,  the  white  conical  lodges  of  the 
village  presented  themselves  a  short  distance 
on  the  right  of  the  trail.  I  at  once  struck  off  and 
entered  it,  and  was  soon  surrounded  by  the 
idlers  of  the  place.  It  was  a  Cheyenne  village; 
and  the  young  men  were  out,  an  old  chief 


HEADING  FOR  HOME  237 

informed  me,  after  buffalo,  and  that  they  would 
return  an  hour  before  sunset,  measuring  the 
hour  with  his  hand  on  the  western  horizon. 
He  also  pointed  out  a  place  a  little  below  for 
the  wagons  to  encamp,  where  he  said  was  plenty 
of  wood  and  grass.  The  lodges,  about  fifty 
in  number,  were  all  regularly  planted  in  rows 
of  ten;  the  chief's  lodge  being  in  the  centre, 
and  the  skins  of  it  being  dyed  a  conspicuous 
red.  Before  the  lodges  of  each  of  the  principal 
chiefs  and  warriors  was  a  stack  of  spears,  from 
which  hung  his  shield  and  arms;  whilst  the 
skins  of  the  lodge  itself  were  covered  with 
devices  and  hieroglyphics,  describing  his  war- 
like achievements.  Before  one  was  a  painted 
pole  supporting  several  smoke-dried  scalps, 
which  dangled  in  the  wind,  rattling  against  the 
pole  like  bags  of  peas. 

The  language  of  signs  is  so  perfectly  under- 
stood in  the  western  country,  and  the  Indians 
themselves  are  such  admirable  pantomimists, 
that,  after  a  little  use,  no  difficulty  whatever 
exists  in  carrying  on  a  conversation  by  such  a 
channel;  and  there  are  few  mountain-men  who 
are  at  a  loss  in  thoroughly  understanding  and 
making  themselves  intelligible  by  signs  alone, 
although  they  neither  speak  nor  understand  a 
word  of  the  Indian  tongue. 

The  wagons  shortly  after  coming  up,  we  pro- 
ceeded to  the  spot  indicated  by  the  chief,  which 


238     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

is  a  camping-place  well  known  to  the  Santa  Fe 
traders  by  the  name  of  the  Pretty  Encampment. 
Here  we  were  soon  surrounded  by  men,  women, 
and  children  from  the  village,  who  arrived  in 
horse-loads  of  five  or  six  mounted  on  the  same 
animal,  and,  begging  and  stealing  everything 
they  could  lay  their  hands  upon,  soon  became  a 
perfect  nuisance.  An  hour  before  sundown  the 
hunting  party  came  in,  their  animals  tottering 
under  heavy  loads  of  buffalo-meat.  Twenty- 
one  had  gone  out,  and  in  the  chase  had  killed 
twenty-one  bulls,  which  were  portioned  out, 
half  the  animal  to  each  lodge.  During  the  night 
a  huge  cottonwood,  which  had  been  thought- 
lessly set  on  fire,  fell,  a  towering  mass  of  flame, 
to  the  ground,  and  nearly  into  the  midst  of  my 
animals,  who,  frightened  by  the  thundering 
crash,  and  the  showers  of  sparks  and  fire,  broke 
their  ropes  and  ran  off.  In  the  morning,  how- 
ever, they  returned  to  camp  at  daybreak,  and 
allowed  me  to  catch  them  without  difficulty. 

The  next  night  we  encamped  on  a  bare 
prairie  without  wood,  having  recourse  to  the 
bois  de  vaches,  or  buffalo-chips,  which  strewed 
the  ground,  to  make  a  fire.  This  fuel  was  so 
wet,  that  nothing  but  a  stifling  smoke  rewarded 
our  attempts.  During  the  day  an  invalid  died 
in  one  of  the  wagons,  in  which  upwards  of 
twenty  poor  wretches  were  being  conveyed,  all 
suffering  from  most  malignant  scurvy.  The 


HEADING  FOR  HOME  239 

first  wagon  which  arrived  in  camp  sent  a  man 
to  dig  a  hole  in  the  prairie;  and  on  the  wagon 
containing  the  dead  man  coming  up,  it  stopped 
a  minute  to  throw  the  body  into  the  hole,  where, 
lightly  covered  with  earth,  it  was  left,  without  a 
prayer,  to  the  mercies  of  the  wolves  and  birds 
of  prey. 

Bent's  Fort  had  been  made  a  depot  of  pro- 
visions for  the  supply  of  the  government  trains 
passing  the  grand  prairies  on  their  way  to  New 
Mexico,  and  the  wagons  now  returning  were 
filled  with  sick  men  suffering  from  attacks  of 
scurvy.*  The  want  of  fresh  provisions  and 
neglect  of  personal  cleanliness,  together  with  the 
effects  of  the  rigorous  climate,  and  the  intemper- 
ate and  indolent  habits  of  the  men,  rendered 
them  proper  subjects  for  this  horrible  scourge. 
In  Santa  Fe,  and  wherever  the  volunteer 
troops  were  congregated,  the  disease  made 
rapid  progress,  and  proved  fatal  in  an  extra- 
ordinary number  of  cases. 

As  I  was  riding  with  some  of  the  Calif  ornians 
in  advance  of  the  train,  a  large  white  wolf 
limped  out  of  the  bottom,  and,  giving  chase, 
we  soon  came  up  to  the  beast,  which  on  our 
approach  crouched  to  the  ground  and  awaited 
its  death-stroke  with  cowardly  sullenness.  It 
was  miserably  poor,  with  its  bones  almost 
protruding  from  the  skin,  and  one  of  its  fore 

*  Called  "Black  Leg"  in  Missouri. 


240     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

legs  had  been  broken,  probably  by  a  buffalo, 
and  trailed  along  the  ground  as  it  ran  snarling 
and  chopping  its  jaws  with  its  sharp  teeth. 

On  the  9th,  as  I  rode  along  ahead,  I  perceived 
some  dark  objects  in  the  prairie,  which,  re- 
fracted by  the  sun  striking  the  sandy  ground, 
appeared  enormous  masses,  without  form, 
moving  slowly  along.  Riding  towards  them  on 
my  mule,  I  soon  made  them  out  to  be  buffalo, 
seventeen  bulls,  which  were  coming  towards  me. 
Jumping  off  the  mule,  I  thrust  the  picket  at 
the  end  of  her  lariat  into  the  ground,  and, 
advancing  cautiously  a  few  paces,  as  the  prairie 
was  entirely  bare,  and  afforded  not  even  the 
cover  of  a  prairie-dog  mound  to  approach  under, 
I  lay  down  on  the  ground  to  await  their  coming. 
As  they  drew  near,  the  huge  beasts,  unconscious 
of  danger,  picked  a  bunch  of  grass  here  and 
there,  sometimes  kicking  up  the  dust  with  their 
fore  feet,  and,  moving  at  the  slowest  walk, 
seemed  in  no  hurry  to  offer  me  a  shot.  Just 
however  as  they  were  within  a  hundred  paces, 
and  I  was  already  squinting  along  the  barrel  of 
my  rifle,  a  greenhorn  from  the  wagons,  who  had 
caught  a  glimpse  of  the  game,  galloped  head- 
long down  the  bluff,  and  before  the  wind.  He 
was  a  quarter  of  a  mile  off  when  the  leading  bull, 
raising  his  head,  snuffed  the  tainted  air,  and 
with  tail  erect  scampered  off  with  his  com- 
panions, leaving  me  showering  imprecations 


HEADING  FOR  HOME  241 

on  the  head  of  the  "muff"  who  had  spoiled  my 
sport  and  supper. 

Whilst  I  was  lying  on  the  ground  three 
wolves,  which  were  following  the  buffalo,  caught 
sight  of  me,  and  seemed  instantly  to  divine  my 
intentions,  for  they  drew  near,  and,  sitting 
within  a  few  yards  of  me,  anxiously  gazed  upon 
me  and  the  approaching  bulls,  thinking,  no 
doubt,  that  their  perservering  attendance  upon 
them  was  now  about  to  be  rewarded.  They 
were  doubtless  disgusted  when,  as  soon  as  I 
perceived  the  bulls  disappear,  I  turned  my  rifle 
upon  one  cur  which  sat  licking  his  chops,  and 
knocked  him  over,  giving  the  others  the  benefit 
of  the  remaining  barrel  as  they  scampered  away 
from  their  fallen  comrade.  I  now  rode  on  far 
ahead,  determined  not  to  be  disturbed;  and  by 
the  time  the  wagons  came  into  camp  I  had 
already  arrived  there  with  the  choice  portions 
of  two  bulls  which  I  killed  near  the  river.  We 
encamped  on  the  9th  at  Chouteau's  Island, 
called  after  an  Indian  trader  named  Chouteau, 
who  was  here  beleagured  by  the  Pawnees  for 
several  weeks,  but  eventually  made  his  escape 
in  safety.  Every  mile  we  advanced  the  buffalo 
became  more  plentiful,  and  the  camp  was  soon 
overflowing  with  fresh  meat. 

The  country  was  literally  black  with  immense 
herds,  and  they  were  continually  crossing  and 
recrossing  the  trail  during  the  day,  giving  us 


242     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

great  trouble  to  prevent  the  loose  animals  from 
breaking  away  and  following  the  bands. 

On  the  12th  a  man  was  found  dead  in  one  of 
the  wagons  on  arriving  in  camp,  and  was 
buried  in  the  same  unceremonious  style  as  the 
other. 

In  the  evening  I  left  the  camp  for  a  load  of 
meat,  and  approached  an  immense  herd  of 
buffalo  under  cover  of  a  prairie-dog  town,  much 
to  the  indignation  of  the  villagers,  who  resented 
the  intrusion  with  an  incessant  chattering.  The 
buffalo  passed  right  through  the  town,  and  at 
one  time  I  am  sure  that  I  could  have  touched 
many  with  the  end  of  my  rifle,  and  thousands 
were  passing  almost  over  me;  but,  as  I  lay  per- 
fectly still,  they  only  looked  at  me  from  under 
their  shaggy  brows,  and  passed  on.  One  huge 
bull,  and  the  most  ferocious-looking  animal  I 
ever  encountered,  came  to  a  dead  stop  within  a 
yard  of  my  head,  and  steadily  examined  me 
with  his  glaring  eyes,  snorting  loudly  his 
ignorance  of  what  the  curious  object  could  be 
which  riveted  his  attention.  Once  he  approached 
so  close  that  I  actually  felt  his  breath  on  my 
face,  and,  smelling  me,  he  retreated  a  pace  or 
two,  and  dashed  up  the  sand  furiously  with  his 
feet,  lashing  his  tail  at  the  same  time  about  his 
dun  sides  with  the  noise  of  a  carter's  whip, 
throwing  down  his  ponderous  head,  and  shaking 
his  horns  angrily  at  me.  This  old  fellow  was 


HEADING  FOR  HOME  243 

shedding  his  hair,  and  his  sleek  skin,  now  bare 
as  one's  hand  in  many  parts,  was  here  and  there 
dotted  with  tufts  of  his  long  winter-coat.  From 
the  shoulder  backwards  the  body  was,  with  these 
exceptions,  perfectly  smooth,  but  his  head, 
neck,  and  breast  were  covered  with  long 
shaggy  hair,  his  glowing  eyes  being  almost 
hidden  in  a  matted  mass,  while  his  coal-black 
beard  swept  his  knees.  His  whole  appearance 
reminded  me  strongly  of  a  lion,  and  the  motion 
of  the  buffalo  when  running  exactly  resembles 
the  canter  of  the  king  of  beasts.  At  last  my 
friend  began  to  work  himself  up  into  such  a 
fury  that  I  began  to  feel  rather  uncomfortable 
at  my  position,  and,  as  he  backed  himself  and 
bent  his  head  for  a  rush,  I  cocked  my  rifle,  and 
rose  partly  from  the  ground  to  take  a  surer  aim, 
when  the  cowardly  old  rascal,  with  a  roar  of 
affright,  took  to  his  heels,  followed  by  the  whole 
band;  but  as  one  sleek,  well-conditioned  bull 
passed  me  within  half  a  dozen  yards,  I  took  a 
flying  shot,  and  rolled  him  over  and  over  in  a 
cloud  of  dust,  levelling  to  the  ground,  as  he  fell, 
a  well-built  dog-house. 

No  animals  in  these  western  regions  interested 
me  so  much  as  the  prairie  dogs.  These  lively 
little  fellows  select  for  the  site  of  their  towns  a 
level  piece  of  prairie  with  a  sandy  or  gravelly 
soil,  out  of  which  they  can  excavate  their 
dwellings  with  great  facility.  Being  of  a  merry, 


244     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

sociable  disposition,  they,  unlike  the  bear  or 
wolf,  choose  to  live  in  a  large  community,  where 
laws  exist  for  the  public  good,  and  there  is  less 
danger  to  be  apprehended  from  the  attacks  of 
their  numerous  and  crafty  enemies.  Their  towns 
equal  in  extent  and  population  the  largest 
cities  of  Europe,  some  extending  many  miles  in 
length,  with  considerable  regularity  in  their 
streets,  and  the  houses  of  a  uniform  style  of 
architecture.  Although  their  form  of  govern- 
ment may  be  styled  republican,  yet  great 
respect  is  paid  to  their  chief  magistrate,  who, 
generally  a  dog  of  large  dimensions  and  imposing 
appearance,  resides  in  a  house  conspicuous  for 
size  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  where  he  may 
always  be  seen  on  his  housetop,  regarding  with 
dignified  complacency  the  various  occupations 
of  the  busy  population — some  industriously 
bearing  to  the  granaries  the  winter  supply  of 
roots,  others  building  or  repairing  their  houses; 
while  many,  their  work  being  over,  sit  chatting 
on  their  housetops,  watching  the  gambols  of 
the  juveniles  as  they  play  around  them.  Their 
hospitality  to  strangers  is  unbounded.  The  owl, 
who  on  the  bare  prairie  is  unable  to  find  a  tree 
or  rock  in  which  to  build  her  nest,  is  provided 
with  a  comfortable  lodging,  where  she  may  in 
security  rear  her  round-eyed  progeny;  and  the 
rattlesnake,  in  spite  of  his  bad  character,  is 
likewise  entertained  with  similar  hospitality 


HEADING  FOR  HOME  245 

although  it  is  very  doubtful  if  it  is  not  some- 
times grossly  abused;  and  many  a  childless  dog 
may  perhaps  justly  attribute  his  calamity  to 
the  partiality  of  the  epicurean  snake  for  the 
tender  meat  of  the  delicate  prairie-pup.  How- 
ever, it  is  certain  that  the  snake  is  a  constant 
guest;  and,  whether  admitted  into  the  domestic 
circle  of  the  dog  family,  or  living  in  separate 
apartments,  or  in  copartnership  with  the  owl,  is 
an  acknowledged  member  of  the  community  at 
large. 

The  prairie-dog  (a  species  of  marmot)  is  some- 
what longer  than  a  guinea-pig,  of  a  light  brown 
or  sandy  color,  and  with  a  head  resembling  that 
of  a  young  terrier  pup.  It  is  also  furnished  with 
a  little  stumpy  tail,  which,  when  its  owner  is 
excited,  is  in  a  perpetual  jerk  and  flutter. 
Frequently,  when  hunting,  I  have  amused  my- 
self for  hours  in  watching  their  frolicsome 
motions,  lying  concealed  behind  one  of  their 
conical  houses.  These  are  raised  in  the  form  of  a 
cone,  two  or  three  feet  above  the  ground,  and  at 
the  apex  is  a  hole,  vertical  to  the  depth  of  three 
feet,  and  then  descending  obliquely  into  the 
interior.  Of  course,  on  the  first  approach  of  such 
a  monster  as  man,  all  the  dogs  which  have  been 
scattered  over  the  town  scamper  to  their  holes 
as  fast  as  their  little  legs  will  admit,  and,  con- 
cealing all  but  their  heads  and  tails,  bark 
lustily  their  displeasure  at  the  intrusion.  When 


246     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

they  have  sufficiently  exhibited  their  daring, 
every  dog  dives  into  his  burrow,  but  two  or 
three  who  remain  as  sentinels,  chattering  in 
high  dudgeon,  until  the  enemy  is  within  a  few 
paces  of  them,  when  they  take  the  usual 
somersault,  and  the  town  is  silent  and  deserted. 
Lying  perfectly  still  for  several  minutes,  I 
could  observe  an  old  fellow  raise  his  head 
cautiously  above  his  hole,  and  reconnoitre;  and 
if  satisfied  that  the  coast  was  clear,  he  would 
commence  a  short  bark.  This  bark,  by  the  way, 
from  its  resemblance  to  that  of  a  dog,  has 
given  that  name  to  this  little  animal,  but  it  is 
more  like  that  of  a  wooden  toy-dog,  which  is 
made  to  bark  by  raising  and  depressing  the 
bellows  under  the  figure.  When  this  warning 
has  been  given,  others  are  soon  seen  to  emerge 
from  their  houses,  and,  assured  of  their  security, 
play  and  frisk  about. 

After  a  longer  delay,  rattlesnakes  issue  from 
the  holes,  and  coil  themselves  on  the  sunny  side 
of  the  hillock,  erecting  their  treacherous  heads, 
and  rattling  an  angry  note  of  warning  if,  in  his 
play,  a  thoughtless  pup  approaches  too  near; 
and,  lastly,  a  sober  owl  appears,  and,  if  the  sun 
be  low,  hops  through  the  town,  picking  up  the 
lizards  and  chameleons  which  everywhere 
abound.  At  the  first  intimation  of  danger  given 
by  the  sentinels,  all  the  stragglers  hasten  to  their 
holes,  tumbling  over  owls  and  rattlesnakes,  who 


HEADING  FOR  HOME  247 

hiss  and  rattle  angrily  at  being  disturbed. 
Everyone  scrambles  off  to  his  own  domicile,  and 
if,  in  his  hurry,  he  should  mistake  his  dwelling, 
or  rush  for  safety  into  any  other  than  his  own, 
he  is  quickly  made  sensible  of  his  error,  and, 
without  ceremony,  ejected.  Then,  every  house 
occupied,  commences  such  a  volley  of  barking, 
and  such  a  twinkling  of  little  heads  and  tails, 
which  alone  appear  above  the  holes,  as  to  defy 
description.  The  lazy  snakes,  regardless  of 
danger,  remain  coiled  up,  and  only  evince  their 
consciousness  by  an  occasional  rattle;  while  the 
owls,  in  the  hurry  and  confusion,  betake  them- 
selves, with  sluggish  wing  to  wherever  a  bush  of 
sage  or  grease  wood  affords  them  temporary 
concealment. 

The  prairie-dog  leads  a  life  of  constant  alarm, 
and  numerous  enemies  are  ever  on  the  watch 
to  surprise  him.  The  hawk  and  the  eagle, 
hovering  l^igh  in  air,  watch  their  towns,  and 
pounce  suddenly  upon  them,  never  failing  to 
carry  off  in  their  cruel  talons  some  unhappy 
member  of  the  community.  The  coyote,  too, 
an  hereditary  foe,  lurks  behind  a  hillock, 
watching  patiently  for  hours  until  an  unlucky 
straggler  approaches  within  reach  of  his  mur- 
derous spring.  In  the  winter,  when  the  prairie- 
dog,  snug  in  his  subterranean  abode,  and  with 
granaries  well  filled,  never  cares  to  expose  his 
little  nose  to  the  icy  blasts  which  sweep  across 


248     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

the  plains,  but,  between  eating  and  sleeping, 
passes  merrily  the  long,  frozen  winter,  he  is 
often  roused  from  his  warm  bed,  and  almost 
congealed  with  terror,  by  hearing  the  snorting 
yelp  of  the  half -famished  wolf,  who,  mad  with 
hunger,  assaults,  with  tooth  and  claw,  the 
frost-bound  roof  of  his  house,  and,  with  almost 
superlupine  strength,  hurls  down  the  well- 
cemented  walls,  tears  up  the  passages,  plunges 
his  cold  nose  into  the  very  chambers,  snorting 
into  them  with  his  earth-stuffed  nose,  in 
ravenous  anxiety,  and  drives  the  poor  little 
trembling  inmate  into  the  most  remote  corners, 
too  often  to  be  dragged  forth,  and  unhesitat- 
ingly devoured.  The  rattlesnake,  too,  I  fear, 
is  not  the  welcome  guest  he  reports  himself  to 
be;  for  often  I  have  slain  the  wily  serpent,  with 
a  belly  too  much  protuberant  to  be  either 
healthy  or  natural,  and  bearing,  in  its  outline, 
a  very  strong  resemblance  to  the  figure  of  a 
prairie-dog. 

A  few  miles  beyond  a  point  on  the  river 
known  as  the  Caches,  and  so  called  from  the 
fact  that  a  party  of  traders,  having  lost  their 
animals,  had  here  cached,  or  concealed,  their 
packs,  we  passed  a  little  log  fort,  built  by  the 
government  employes,  for  the  purpose  of 
erecting  here  a  forge  to  repair  the  commissariat 
wagons  on  their  way  to  Santa  Fe.  We  found 
the  fort  beleagured  by  the  Pawnees,  who  killed 


HEADING  FOR  HOME  249 

every  one  who  showed  his  nose  outside  the  gate. 
They  had  carried  off  all  their  stock  of  mules  and 
oxen,  and  in  the  vicinity  had,  two  or  three 
days  before,  attacked  a  company  under  an 
officer  of  the  United  States  Engineers,  running 
off  with  all  the  mules  belonging  to  it.  We  were 
now,  day  after  day,  passing  through  countless 
herds  of  buffalo.  I  could  scarcely  form  an  esti- 
mate of  the  numbers  within  the  range  of  sight  at 
the  same  instant,  but  some  idea  may  be  formed 
of  them  by  mentioning,  that  one  day,  passing 
along  a  ridge  of  upland  prairie  at  least  thirty 
miles  in  length,  and  from  which  a  view  extended 
about  eight  miles  on  each  side  of  a  slightly 
rolling  plain,  not  a  patch  of  grass  ten  yards 
square  could  be  seen,  so  dense  was  the  living 
mass  that  covered  the  country  in  every  direction. 
On  leaving  the  Caches,  the  trail,  to  avoid  a 
bend  in  the  Arkansa,  strikes  to  the  north-east 
over  a  tract  of  rolling  prairie,  intersected  by 
many  ravines,  full  of  water  at  certain  seasons, 
known  as  the  Coon  Creeks.  On  this  route 
there  is  no  other  fuel  than  bois  de  vaches,  and 
the  camps  are  made  on  naked  bluffs,  exposed, 
without  the  slightest  shelter,  to  the  chilling 
winds  that  sweep  continually  over  the  bare 
plains.  I  scarcely  remember  to  have  suffered 
more  from  cold  than  in  passing  these  abominable 
Coon  Creeks.  With  hunting-shirt  saturated 
with  the  rain,  the  icy  blast  penetrated  to  my 


250       WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

very  bones,  and,  night  after  night,  lying  on  the 
wet  ground  and  in  wet  clothes,  after  successive 
days  of  pouring  rain  I  felt  my  very  blood 
running  cold  in  my  veins,  and  as  if  I  never 
could  again  imbibe  heat  sufficient  to  warm  me 
thoroughly. 

One  night,  while  standing  guard  round  the 
camp,  which  was  about  two  miles  from  the 
river,  I  heard  an  inexplicable  noise,  like  distant 
thunder,  but  too  continuous  to  proceed  from 
that  source,  which  gradually  increased,  and 
drew  nearer  to  the  camp.  Placing  my  ear  to 
the  ground,  I  distinguished  the  roaring  tramp 
of  buffalo  thundering  on  the  plain;  and  as  the 
moon  for  a  moment  burst  from  a  cloud,  I  saw 
the  prairie  was  covered  by  a  dark  mass,  which 
undulated,  in  the  uncertain  light,  like  the  waves 
of  the  sea.  I  at  once  became  sensible  of  the 
imminent  danger  we  were  in;  for  when  thousands 
and  hundreds  of  thousands  of  these  animals  are 
pouring  in  a  resistless  torrent  over  the  plains, 
it  is  almost  impossible  to  change  their  course, 
particularly  at  night,  the  myriads  in  the  rear 
pushing  on  those  in  front,  who,  spite  of  them- 
selves, continue  on  their  course,  trampling 
down  all  opposition  to  their  advance.  Even  if 
we  ourselves  were  not  crushed  by  the  mass  of 
beasts,  our  animals  would  most  certainly  be 
borne  away  bodily  with  the  herd,  and  irrecover- 
ably lost. 


HEADING  FOR  HOME  251 

I  at  once  alarmed  the  camp,  and  all  hands 
turned  out,  and,  advancing  towards  the  buffalo, 
which  were  coming  straight  upon  us,  by  shouting 
and  continued  firing  of  guns  we  succeeded  in 
turning  them,  the  wind  being,  luckily,  in  our 
favor;  and  the  main  body  branching  in  two,  one 
division  made  off  into  the  prairie,  while  the 
other  crossed  the  river,  where  for  hours  we 
heard  their  splashing,  sounding  like  the  noise 
of  a  thousand  cataracts.  In  the  daytime  even 
our  cavallada  was  in  continual  danger,  for  im- 
mense bands  of  buffalo  dashed  repeatedly 
through  the  wagons,  scarcely  giving  us  time 
to  secure  the  animals  before  they  were  upon  us; 
and  on  one  occasion,  when  I  very  foolishly 
dismounted  from  Panchito  to  fire  at  a  band 
passing  within  a  few  yards,  the  horse,  becoming 
alarmed,  started  off  into  the  herd,  and,  followed 
by  the  mules,  was  soon  lost  to  sight  amongst 
the  buffalo,  and  it  was  some  time  before  I 
succeeded  in  recovering  them. 

As  might  be  inferred,  such  gigantic  sporting 
soon  degenerates  into  mere  butchery.  Indeed, 
setting  aside  the  excitement  of  a  chase  on 
horseback,  buffalo-hunting  is  too  wholesale  a 
business  to  afford  much  sport — that  is,  on  the 
prairies;  but  in  the  mountains,  where  they  are 
met  with  in  small  bands,  and  require  no  little 
trouble  and  expertness  to  find  and  kill,  and 
where  one  may  hunt  for  days  without  discover- 


252     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

ing  more  than  one  band  of  half  a  dozen,  it  is 
then  an  exciting  and  noble  sport. 

There  are  two  methods  of  hunting  buffalo — 
one  on  horseback,  by  chasing  them  at  full  speed, 
and  shooting  when  alongside;  the  other  by 
"still  hunting,"  that  is,  approaching,  or  stalking, 
by  taking  advantage  of  the  wind  and  any  cover 
the  ground  affords,  and  crawling  to  within 
distance  of  the  feeding  herd.  The  latter  method 
exhibits  in  a  higher  degree  the  qualities  of  the 
hunter,  the  former  those  of  the  horseman.  The 
buffalo's  head  is  so  thickly  thatched  with  long 
shaggy  hair  that  the  animal  is  almost  precluded 
from  seeing  an  object  directly  in  its  front;  and 
if  the  wind  be  against  the  hunter  he  can  ap- 
proach, with  a  little  caution,  a  buffalo  feeding 
on  a  prairie  as  level  and  bare  as  a  billiard-table. 
Their  sense  of  smelling,  however,  is  so  acute, 
that  it  is  impossible  to  get  within  shot  when  to 
windward,  as,  at  the  distance  of  nearly  half  a 
mile,  the  animal  will  be  seen  to  snuff  the  tainted 
air,  and  quickly  satisfy  himself  of  the  vicinity 
of  danger.  At  any  other  than  the  season  of 
gallantry,  when  the  males  are,  like  all  other 
animals,  disposed  to  be  pugnacious,  the  buffalo  is 
a  quiet,  harmless  animal,  and  will  never  attack 
unless  goaded  to  madness  by  wounds,  or,  if  a  cow, 
in  sometimes  defending  its  calf  when  pursued  by 
a  horseman;  but  even  then  it  is  seldom  that  they 
make  any  strong  effort  to  protect  their  young. 


HEADING  FOR  HOME  253 

When  gorged  with  water,  after  a  long  fast, 
they  become  so  lethargic  that  they  sometimes 
are  too  careless  to  run  and  avoid  clanger.  One 
evening,  just  before  camping,  I  was,  as  usual,  in 
advance  of  the  train,  when  I  saw  three  bulls 
come  out  of  the  river  and  walk  leisurely  across 
the  trail,  stopping  occasionally,  and  one,  more 
indolent  than  the  rest,  lying  down  whenever  the 
others  halted.  Being  on  my  hunting-mule,  I 
rode  slowly  after  them,  the  lazy  one  stopping 
behind  the  others,  and  allowing  me  to  ride 
within  a  dozen  paces,  when  he  would  slowly 
follow  the  rest.  Wishing  to  see  how  near  I 
could  get,  I  dismounted,  and,  rifle  in  hand, 
approached  the  bull,  who  at  last  stopped  short, 
and  never  even  looked  round,  so  that  I  walked 
up  to  the  animal  and  placed  my  hand  on  his 
quarter.  Taking  no  notice  of  me,  the  huge 
beast  layjdown,  and  while  on  the  ground  I  shot 
him  dead.  On  butchering  the  carcass  I  found 
the  stomach  so  greatly  distended,  that  (it 
seemed)  another  pint  would  have  burst  it.  In 
other  respects  the  animal  was  perfectly  healthy 
and  in  good  condition. 

One  of  the  greatest  enemies  to  the  buffalo  is 
the  white  wolf.  These  perservering  brutes 
follow  the  herds  from  pasture  to  pasture, 
preying  upon  the  bulls  enfeebled  by  wounds, 
the  cows  when  weak  at  the  time  of  calving,  and 
the  young  calves  whenever  they  straggle  from 


254     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

the  mothers.  In  bands  of  twenty  and  thirty 
they  attack  a  wounded  bull,  separate  him  from 
the  herd,  and  worry  the  poor  animal  until, 
weak  with  loss  of  blood  and  the  ceaseless 
assaults  of  his  active  foes,  he  falls  hamstrung,  a 
victim  to  their  ravenous  hunger. 

On  one  of  the  Coon  Creeks  I  was  witness  to 
an  attack  of  this  kind  by  three  wolves  on  a  cow 
and  calf,  or  rather  on  the  latter  alone,  which 
by  some  accident  had  got  separated  from  the 
herd.  My  attention  was  first  called  to  the 
extraordinary  motions  of  the  cow  (for  I  could 
neither  see  the  calf  nor  the  wolves  on  account 
of  the  high  grass),  which  was  running  here  and 
there,  jumping  high  in  air  and  bellowing  lustily. 
On  approaching  the  spot  I  saw  that  she  was 
accompanied  by  a  calf  about  a  month  old,  and 
all  the  efforts  of  three  wolves  were  directed  to 
get  between  it  and  the  cow,  who,  on  her  part, 
used  all  her  generalship  to  prevent  it.  Whilst 
one  executed  a  diversion  in  the  shape  of  a  false 
attack  on  the  cow,  the  others  ran  at  the  calf, 
which  sought  shelter  under  the  very  belly  of  its 
mother.  She,  poor  animal!  regardless  of  the 
wounds  inflicted  on  herself,  sought  only  to  face 
the  more  open  attack;  and  the  wolf  in  rear, 
taking  advantage  of  this,  made  a  bolder  on- 
slaught, and  fastened  upon  her  hams,  getting 
however  for  his  pains  such  a  well-delivered  kick 
in  his  stomach  as  threw  him  a  somersault  in 


HEADING  FOR  HOME  255 

the  air.  The  poor  cow  was  getting  the  worst 
of  it;  and  the  calf  would  certainly  have  fallen 
a  victim  to  the  ravenous  beasts,  if  I  had  not 
most  opportunely  come  to  the  rescue;  and, 
waiting  until  the  battle  rolled  near  the  place  of 
my  concealment,  I  took  advantage  of  a  tem- 
porary pause  in  the  combat,  when  two  of  the 
wolves  were  sitting  in  a  line,  with  their  tongues 
out  and  panting  for  breath,  to  level  my  rifle  at 
them,  knocking  over  one  dead  as  a  stone,  and  giv- 
ing the  other  a  pill  to  be  carried  with  him  to  the 
day  of  his  death,  which,  if  I  am  any  judge  of 
gun-shot  wounds,  would  not  be  very  distant. 
The  third  took  the  hint  and  scampered  off,  a 
ball  from  my  second  barrel  whistling  after  him 
as  he  ran;  and  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing 
the  cow  cross  the  river  with  her  calf,  and  join 
in  safety  the  herd,  which  was  feeding  on  the 
other  side. 


CHAPTER  XIV 

A  BUFFALO  LANDSCAPE 

WE  reached  Pawnee  Fork  of  the  Arkansa 
without  any  novedad  [accident],  but 
found  this  creek  so  swollen  with  the 
rains  that  we  feared  we  should  experience  no 
little  trouble  in  crossing.  We  here  met  a  train 
of  wagons  detained  by  the  above  cause  on  their 
way  to  Santa  Fe,  and  we  learned  from  them 
that  a  party  of  Mexican  traders  had  been 
attacked  by  the  Pawnees  at  this  very  spot  a 
few  days  before,  losing  one  hundred  and  fifty 
mules,  one  Indian  having  been  killed  in  the 
fight,  whose  well-picked  skeleton  lay  a  few 
yards  from  our  camp.  Pawnee  Fork  being  con- 
sidered the  most  dangerous  spot  on  the  trail, 
extraordinary  precautions  were  taken  in  guard- 
ing against  surprise,  and  the  animals  belonging 
to  the  train  were  safely  corralled  before  sun- 
down, and  a  strong  guard  posted  round  them. 
Mine,  however,  were  picketed  as  usual  round 
my  sleeping-place,  which  was  on  a  bare  prairie 
at  some  distance  from  the  timber  of  the  creek. 
Such  a  storm  as  poured  upon  our  devoted 

heads  that  night  I  have  seldom  had  the  mis- 
256 


A  BUFFALO  LANDSCAPE  257 

fortune  to  be  exposed  to.  The  rain,  in  buckets- 
ful,  Niagara'd  down  as  if  a  twenty -years'  supply 
was  being  emptied  from  the  heavens  on  that 
one  night;  vivid  forked  lightning,  in  con- 
tinuous flashes,  lit  up  the  flooded  prairie  with 
its  glare;  and  the  thunder,  which  on  these 
plains  is  thunder  indeed,  kept  up  an  incessant 
and  mammoth  cannonade.  My  frightened 
mules  crept  as  near  my  bed  as  their  lariats 
would  allow  them,  and,  with  water  streaming 
from  every  extremity,  trembled  with  the  chilling 
rain. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  night,  when  the  storm 
was  at  its  height,  I  was  attracted  to  a  fire  at  the 
edge  of  the  encampment  by  the  sound  of  a  man's 
voice  perpetrating  a  song.  Drawing  near,  I 
found  a  fire,  or  rather  a  few  embers  and  an 
extinguished  log,  over  which  cowered  a  man 
sitting"  cross-legged  in  Indian  fashion,  holding 
his  attenuated  hands  over  the  expiring  ashes. 
His  features,  pinched  with  the  cold,  and  lank 
and  thin  with  disease,  wore  a  comically  serious 
expression,  as  the  lightning  lit  them  up,  the  rain 
streaming  off  his  nose  and  prominent  chin,  and 
his  hunting-shirt  hanging  about  him  in  a  flabby 
and  soaking  embrace.  He  was  quite  alone,  and 
sat  watching  a  little  pot,  doubtless  containing 
his  supper,  which  refused  to  boil  on  the  miser- 
able fire.  Spite  of  such  a  situation,  which 
could  be  termed  anything  but  cheering,  he,  like 


258     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

Mark  Tapley,  evidently  thought  that  now  was 
the  very  moment  to  be  jolly,  and  was  rapping 
out  at  the  top  of  his  voice  a  ditty,  the  chorus  of 
which  was, — and  which  he  gave  with  peculiar 
emphasis, — 

"How  happy  am  I! 

From  care  I'm  free: 
Oh,  why  are  not  all 
Contented  like  me?"— 

not  for  an  instant  intending  it  as  a  satire  upon 
himself,  but  singing  away  with  perfect  serious- 
ness, raising  his  voice  at  the  third  line,  "Oh, 
why  are  not  all,"  particularly  at  the  "Oh,"  in  a 
most  serio-comical  manner.  During  the  night  I 
occasionally  shook  the  water  out  of  my  blanket, 
and  raised  my  head  to  assure  myself  that  the 
animals  were  safe,  lying  down  to  sleep  again, 
perfectly  satisfied  that  not  even  a  Pawnee 
would  face  such  a  storm,  even  to  steal  horses. 
But  I  did  that  celebrated  thieving  nation  gross 
injustice;  for  they,  on  that  very  night,  carried  off 
several  mules  belonging  to  the  other  train  of 
wagons,  notwithstanding  that  a  strict  guard  was 
kept  up  all  the  night. 

The  next  day,  as  there  was  no  probability  of 
the  creek  subsiding,  it  was  determined  to  cross 
the  wagons  at  any  risk;  and  they  were  accord- 
ingly, one  after  the  other,  let  down  the  steep 
bank  of  the  stream,  and,  several  yokes  of  oxen 
(which  had  first  been  swum  over)  being  attached 


A  BUFFALO  LANDSCAPE  259 

were  hauled  bodily  through  the  water,  some 
swimming,  and  others,  if  heavily  laden,  diving 
across.  I  myself  crossed  on  Panchito,  whose 
natatory  attempt,  probably  his  first,  was  any- 
thing but  first-rate;  for  on  plunging  in,  and  at 
once,  into  deep  water,  instead  of  settling  him- 
self down  to  a  quiet  swim,  he  jumped  up  into 
the  air,  and,  sinking  to  the  bottom,  and  thus 
gaining  a  fresh  impetus,  away  he  went  again, 
carrying  me,  rifle,  and  ammunition  under  water 
at  every  plunge,  as  I  held  on  by  his  neck  like 
grim  death.  All  my  kit  was  contained  in  a  pair 
of  mule-packs,  which  I  had  had  made  of  water- 
proof material.  Unfortunately  one  had  a  hole 
in  the  top,  which  had  escaped  my  notice.  This 
admitted  the  water,  which  remained  in  the  pack, 
several  inches  deep,  for  a  fortnight.  This  pack 
contained  all  my  papers,  notes,  and  several 
manuscripts  and  documents  relative  to  the 
history  of  New  Mexico  and  its  Indian  tribes, 
which  I  had  collected  with  considerable  trouble 
and  expense.  On  opening  the  trunk,  I  found 
all  the  papers  completely  destroyed,  and  the 
old  manuscripts,  written  on  bad  paper,  and  with 
worse  ink,  reduced  to  a  pulpy  mass;  every  scrap 
of  writing  being  perfectly  illegible. 

At  length  all  the  wagons  were  got  safely  over, 
with  the  exception  of  having  everything  well 
soaked;  and  as  the  process  had  occupied  the 
whole  day,  we  camped  on  the  other  side  of  the 


260     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

creek.  Every  day  we  found  greater  difficulty  in 
procuring  fuel;  for,  as  we  were  now  on  the 
regular  Santa  Fe  trail,  the  creeks  had  been  almost 
entirely  stripped  of  firewood,  and  it  was  the 
work  of  hours  to  collect  a  sufficiency  of  brush 
to  make  a  small  fire  to  boil  a  pot  of  water.  On 
arriving  at  camp,  and  having  unpacked  the 
mules,  the  first  thing  was  to  sally  forth  in  quest 
of  wood;  an  expedition  of  no  little  danger,  for 
it  was  always  more  than  probable  that  Indians 
were  lurking  in  the  neighborhood,  and  therefore 
the  rifle  always  accompanied  the  fuel-hunter. 
Between  Pawnee  Fork  and  Cow  Creek  all  our 
former  experiences  of  buffalo-seeing  were  thrown 
into  the  shade,  for  here  they  literally  formed 
the  whole  scenery,  and  nothing  but  dense  masses 
of  these  animals  was  to  be  seen  in  every  direc- 
tion, covering  valley  and  bluff,  and  actually 
blocking  up  the  trail.  Nothing  was  heard  along 
the  line  of  march  but  pop — bang — pop — bang 
every  minute;  and  the  Calif ornian  Indian 
lassoed  the  calves  and  brought  them  in  in  such 
numbers,  that  many  were  again  set  free.  I  had 
hitherto  refrained  from  "chasing,"  in  order  to 
save  my  poor  horse;  but  this  day,  a  fine  band 
of  cows  crossing  the  trail  on  a  splendid  piece  of 
level  prairie,  I  determined  to  try  Panchito's 
mettle.  Cantering  up  to  the  herd,  I  singled  out 
a  wiry-looking  cow  (which  sex  is  the  fleetest), 
and,  dashing  at  her,  soon  succeeded  in  separat- 


A  BUFFALO  LANDSCAPE  261 

ing  her  from  the  rest.  As  I  steered  Panchito 
right  into  the  midst  of  a  thousand  of  these 
animals,  he  became  half  mad  with  terror, 
plunging  and  snorting  and  kicking  right  and 
left;  but  he  soon  became  tamer  and  more 
reconciled  when  the  chase  was  a  trial  of  speed 
between  him  and  the  flying  cow,  and  he  then 
was  as  much  excited  as  his  rider.  The  cow  held 
her  ground  wonderfully  well,  and  for  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  kept  us  a  couple  of  lengths  astern, 
which  distance  my  horse  seemed  hardly  to  wish 
to  decrease.  As  he  became  warm,  however,  I 
pushed  him  up  to  her  just  as  she  entered  a  large 
band,  where  she  doubtless  thought  to  have  found 
refuge;  but,  running  through  it,  she  again  made 
for  the  open  prairie  and  here,  after  a  burst  of  a 
few  hundred  yards,  I  again  came  up  with  her; 
but  Panchito  refused  to  lay  me  alongside, 
darting  wildly  on  one  side  if  I  attempted  to  pass 
the  animal.  At  last,  pushing  him  with  spur  and 
leg,  I  brought  him  to  the  top  of  his  speed,  and, 
shooting  past  the  flying  cow  in  his  stride,  and 
with  too  much  headway  on  him  to  swerve,  I 
brushed  the  ribs  of  the  buffalo  with  my  moccasin, 
and,  edging  off  a  little  to  avoid  her  horns,  dis- 
charged my  rifle  into  her  side,  behind  the  shoul- 
der. Carried  forward  a  few  paces  in  her  on- 
ward course,  she  fell  headlong  to  the  ground, 
burying  her  horns  deep  into  the  soil,  and, 
turning  over  on  her  side,  was  dead.  She  was 


262     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

so  poor  that  I  contented  myself  with  the 
tongue,  leaving  the  remainder  of  the  carcass 
to  the  wolves  and  ravens. 

We  continued  to  find  the  buffalo  in  similar 
abundance  as  far  as  Cow  Creek;  a  little  beyond 
which  we  saw  the  last  band;  and  on  Turkey 
Creek  the  last  straggler,  an  old  grizzly  bull, 
which  I  killed  for  a  last  supply  of  meat. 

After  passing  the  Little  Arkansa,  the  prairie 
began  to  change  its  character;  the  surface 
became  more  broken,  the  streams  more  fre- 
quent, and  fringed  with  better  timber,  and  of  a 
greater  variety;  the  eternal  cotton  wood  now 
giving  place  to  aspen,  walnut,  and  hickory,  and 
the  short  curly  buffalo-grass  to  a  more  luxuriant 
growth  of  a  coarser  quality,  interspersed  with 
numerous  plants  and  gay  flowers.  The  dog- 
towns,  too,  disappeared;  and,  in  lieu  of  these 
little  animals,  the  prairie-hen  boomed  at  rise 
and  set  of  sun,  and,  running  through  the  high 
grass,  furnished  ample  work  for  the  rifle.  Large 
game  was  becoming  scarcer;  and  but  few  ante- 
lope were  now  to  be  seen,  arid  still  fewer  deer. 

No  scenery  in  nature  is  more  dreary  and 
monotonous  than  the  aspect  of  the  "grand 
prairies"  through  which  we  had  been  passing. 
Nothing  meets  the  eye  but  a  vast  undulating 
expanse  of  arid  waste;  for  the  buffalo-grass, 
although  excellent  in  quality,  never  grows 
higher  than  two  or  three  inches,  and  is  seldom 


A  BUFFALO  LANDSCAPE  263 

green  in  color;  and,  being  but  thinly  planted, 
the  prairie  never  looks  green  and  turf -like.  Not 
a  tree  or  shrub  is  to  be  seen,  except  on  the  creeks, 
where  a  narrow  strip  of  unpicturesque  cotton- 
wood  only  occasionally  relieves  the  eye  with  its 
verdant  foliage.  The  sky,  too,  is  generally  over- 
cast, and  storms  sweep  incessantly  over  the 
bare  plains  during  all  seasons  of  the  year; 
boisterous  winds  prevailing  at  all  times,  carrying 
with  them  a  chilling  sleet  or  clouds  of  driving 
snow.  It  was  therefore  a  great  relief  to  look 
upon  the  long  green  waving  grass,  and  the 
pretty  groves  on  the  streams;  although  our 
animals  soon  exhibited  the  consequences  of  the 
change  of  diet,  between  the  rich  and  fattening 
buffalo-grass,  and  the  rank,  although  more 
luxuriant,  herbage  they  now  fed  upon. 

On  ^approaching  Council  Grove  the  scenery 
became  very  picturesque;  the  prairie  lost  its 
flat  and  monotonous  character,  and  was  broken 
into  hills  and  valleys,  with  well-timbered  knolls 
scattered  here  and  there,  intersected  by  clear 
and  babbling  streams,  and  covered  with  gaudy 
flowers,  whose  bright  colors  contrasted  with 
the  vivid  green  of  the  luxuriant  grass.  My 
eye,  so  long  accustomed  to  the  burnt  and 
withered  vegetation  of  the  mountains,  revelled 
in  this  refreshing  scenery,  and  never  tired  of 
gazing  upon  the  novel  view.  Council  Grove 
is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  spots  in  the  western 


264     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

country.  A  clear  rapid  stream  runs  through 
the  valley,  bordered  by  a  broad  belt  of  timber, 
which  embraces  all  the  varieties  of  forest-trees 
common  to  the  west.  Oak,  beech,  elm,  maple, 
hickory,  ash,  walnut,  &c.,  here  presented 
themselves  like  old  friends;  squirrels  jumped 
from  branch  to  branch,  the  hum  of  the  honey- 
bee sounded  sweet  and  homelike,  the  well- 
known  chatter  of  the  blue  jay  and  catbird  re- 
sounded through  the  grove;  and  in  the  evening 
the  whip-poor-will  serenaded  us  with  its  familiar 
tongue,  and  the  drumming  of  the  ruffed  grouse 
boomed  through  the  grove.  The  delight  of  the 
teamsters  on  first  hearing  these  well-known 
sounds  knew  no  bounds  whatever.  They 
danced,  and  sang,  and  hurrahed,  as,  one  after 
the  other,  some  familiar  note  caught  their  ear. 
Poor  fellows!  they  had  been  suffering  a  severe 
time  of  it,  and  many  hardships  and  privations, 
and  doubtless  snuffed  in  the  air  the  johnny- 
cakes  and  hominy  of  their  Missouri  homes. 

"Wagh!"  exclaimed  one  raw-boned  young 
giant,  as  a  bee  flew  past;  "this  feels  like  the  old 
'ooman,  and  mush  and  molasses  at  that!  If  it 
don't,  I'll  be  dog-gone!" 

"Hurroo  for  old  Missouri!"  roared  another; 
"h'yar's  a  hoss  as  will  knock  the  hind  sights  off 
the  corn-doin's.  Darn  my  old  heart  if  thar 
arn't  a  reg'lar-built  hickory — makes  my  eyes 
sweat  to  look  at  it!  This  child  will  have  no 


A  BUFFALO  LANDSCAPE  265 

more  'mountains;'  hurroo  for  old  Missouri! 
Wagh!" 

A  trader  amongst  the  Caw  Indians  had 
erected  himself  a  log  house  at  the  grove,  which 
appeared  to  us  a  magnificent  palace.  Himself, 
his  cows  and  horses,  looked  so  fat  and  sleek,  that 
we  really  thought  them  unnaturally  so;  and  so 
long  had  I  been  used  to  see  the  rawboned  ani- 
mals of  Mexico  and  the  mountains,  that  I 
gravely  asked  him  what  he  gave  them,  and  why 
he  made  them  so  unwieldy.  When  he  told  me 
that  his  stock  were  all  very  poor,  and  nothing 
to  what  they  were  when  they  left  the  States  a 
month  before,  I  thought  the  man  was  taking  a 
"rise"  out  of  me;  and  when  I  showed  him  my 
travel-worn  animals,  and  bragged  of  their,  to 
me,  plump  condition,  he  told  me  that  where  he 
came  from  it  would  be  thought  cruel  to  work 
such  Starved-looking  beasts.  There  was  one 
lodge  of  Caw  Indians  at  the  grove,  the  big 
village  being  out  on  the  prairie,  hunting  buffalo. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream  was  a  party 
of  Americans  from  Louisiana,  who  had  been 
out  for  the  purpose  of  catching  calves;  and 
round  their  camp  some  thirty  were  feeding,  all 
they  had  been  able  to  keep  alive  out  of  upwards 
of  a  hundred. 

From  Council  Grove  to  Caw,  or  Kansas, 
River,  the  country  increases  in  beauty,  and 
presents  many  most  admirable  spots  for  a 


266     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

settlement;  but  as  it  is  guaranteed  by  treaty 
to  the  Caw  and  Osage  Indians,  no  white  man 
is  allowed  by  the  United  States  government  to 
settle  on  their  lands. 

The  night  before  reaching  Caw  River  we 
encamped  on  a  bare  prairie,  through  which 
ran  a  small  creek,  fringed  with  timber.  At  sun- 
down the  wind,  which  had  blown  smartly  the 
whole  day,  suddenly  fell,  and  one  of  those 
unnatural  calms  succeeded,  which  so  surely 
herald  a  storm  in  these  regions.  The  sky 
became  overcast  with  heavy  inky  clouds,  and 
an  intolerably  sultry  and  oppressive  heat  per- 
vaded the  atmosphere.  Myriads  of  fire-flies 
darted  about,  and  legions  of  bugs  and  beetles, 
and  invading  hosts  of  sandflies  and  mosquitos 
droned  and  hummed  in  the  air,  swooping  like 
charging  Cossacks  on  my  unfortunate  body. 
Beetles  and  bugs  of  easy  squeezability,  brob- 
dignag  proportions,  and  intolerable  odor,  darted 
into  my  mouth  as  I  gasped  for  breath;  while 
sandflies  with  their  atomic  stings  probed  my 
nose  and  ears,  and  mosquitoes  thrust  their 
poisoned  lances  into  every  part  of  my  body. 

Hoping  for  the  coming  storm,  I  lay  without 
covering,  exposed  to  all  their  attacks;  but  the 
agony  of  this  merciless  persecution  was  nothing 
to  the  thrill  of  horror  which  pervaded  my  very 
bones  when  a  cold  clammy  rattlesnake  crawled 
over  my  naked  ankles;  a  flash  of  lightning  at 


A  BUFFALO  LANDSCAPE  267 

the  moment  revealing  to  me  the  reptile,  as  with 
raised  head  it  dragged  its  scaly  belly  across  my 
skin,  during  which  time,  to  me  an  age,  I  feared 
to  draw  breath  lest  the  snake  should  strike  me. 
Presently  the  storm  broke  upon  us;  a  hurricane 
of  wind  squalled  over  the  prairie,  a  flash  of  vivid 
lightning,  followed  by  a  clap  of  deafening 
thunder,  and  then  down  came  the  rain  in  tor- 
rents. I  actually  revelled  in  the  shower-bath; 
for  away  on  the  instant  were  washed  bugs  and 
beetles;  mosquitos  were  drowned  in  millions; 
and  the  rattlesnakes  I  knew  would  now  retire 
to  their  holes,  and  leave  me  in  peace  and  quiet 
for  the  remainder  of  the  night. 

We  now  passed  through  a  fine  country, 
partially  cultivated  by  the  Caw  Indians,  whose 
log  shanties  were  seen  scattered  amongst  the 
timbered  knolls.  Caw  River  itself  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  nation,  and  we  halted  that  night 
in  the  village,  where,  in  the  house  of  a  white 
farmer,  I  ate  the  first  civilized  meal  I  had 
tasted  for  many  months,  and  enjoyed  the 
unusual  luxury  of  eating  at  a  table  with  knife 
and  fork;  moreover  sitting  on  a  chair,  which 
however  I  would  gladly  have  dispensed  with, 
for  I  had  so  long  been  accustomed  to  sit  Indian 
fashion  on  the  ground  that  a  chair  was  at 
first  both  unpleasant  and  awkward.  The  meal 
consisted  of  hot  cakes  and  honey,  delicious 
butter,  and  lettuce  and  radishes.  My  animals 


268     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

fared  well  too,  on  Indian  corn,  and  oats  in  the 
straw;  and  the  whole  expense,  eleven  horses  and 
mules  having  been  fed  the  better  part  of  a  day 
and  one  night,  amounted  to  one  dollar  and  a 
half,  or  six  shillings  sterling. 

A  troop  of  dragoons  from  St.  Louis  to  Fort 
Leavenworth  met  us  on  the  road  on  their  way 
to  the  latter  station,  from  whence  they  were 
about  to  escort  a  train  of  wagons,  containing 
specie,  to  Santa  Fe.  They  were  superbly 
mounted:  the  horses,  uniting  plenty  of  blood 
with  bone,  so  great  a  desideratum  for  cavalry, 
were  about  fifteen  hands  high,  and  in  excellent 
condition.  The  dragoons  themselves  were  all 
recruits,  and  soldierlike  neither  in  dress  nor 
appearance. 


CHAPTER  XV 

AT  THE  END  OF  THE  TRAIL 

WE  passed  the  Kansas  or  Caw  River  by  a 
ferry  worked  by  Indians,  and,  striking 
into  a  most  picturesque  country  of  hill 
and  dale,  well  timbered  and  watered,  entered 
the  valley  of  the  great  Missouri.  A  short  dis- 
tance from  the  river,  on  the  left  of  the  trail,  is  a 
tabular  bluff  of  most  extraordinary  formation, 
being  the  exact  and  accurately  outlined  figure 
of  a  large  fortification,  with  escarpments, 
counterscarps,  glacis,  and  all  details,  perfectly 
delineated. 

A^little  farther  on  we  came  in  sight  of  the 
garrison  of  Fort  Leavenworth,  the  most  western 
military  station  of  the  United  States,  and 
situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Missouri  in 
the  Indian  territory.  The  fort  is  built  on  an 
eminence  overhanging  the  river,  but,  although 
called  a  fort,  has  no  pretensions  to  be  a  military 
work,  the  only  defence  to  the  garrison  being 
four  wooden  block-houses,  loopholed  for  mus- 
ketry, placed  at  each  corner  of  the  square  of 
buildings.  The  barracks,  stables,  and  officers' 

quarters    surrounded    this    square,    which    is 
269 


270     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

planted  with  trees  and  covered  with  luxuriant 
grass.  The  accommodation  for  the  men  and 
officers  is  excellent;  the  houses  of  the  latter 
being  large  and  commodious,  and  quite  unlike 
the  dirty  pigsties  which  are  thought  good 
enough  for  the  accommodation  of  British 
officers.  The  soldiers'  barrack-rooms  are  large 
and  airy,  but  no  attention  appears  to  be  paid 
to  cleanliness,  and  the  floors,  walls,  and  windows 
were  dirty  in  the  extreme.  The  beds  are  all 
double,  or  rather  the  bedsteads,  for  the  bedding 
is  separate,  but  in  close  contact.  What  struck 
me  more  than  anything  was  the  admirable 
condition  of  the  horses,  and  their  serviceable 
appearance:  I  did  not  see  a  single  troop-horse 
in  the  squadron  which  would  not  have  sold  in 
England  for  eighty  guineas;  the  price  paid  for 
them  here,  that  is,  the  government  contract 
price,  being  from  fifty  to  eighty  dollars,  or  from 
ten  to  sixteen  pounds. 

The  garrison  constitutes  the  whole  population 
of  the  place.  With  the  exception  of  the  sutler's 
store  for  the  use  of  the  soldiers,  there  are  neither 
shops,  taverns,  nor  private  buildings  of  any 
description;  and  I  should  have  fared  but  badly 
if  it  had  not  been  for  the  hospitality  of  Captain 
Enos,  of  the  quartermaster-general's  depart- 
ment, who  most  kindly  assigned  to  me  a  room 
in  his  own  quarters  in  the  garrison,  and  made  me 
a  member  of  his  mess. 


AT  THE  END  OF  THE  TRAIL      271 

The  officers  of  the  dragoons,  who  may  be 
said  to  be  buried  for  life  in  this  wilderness,  are 
mostly  married,  and  their  families  constitute 
the  only  society  the  place  affords.  I  remember 
to  have  been  not  a  little  struck  at  the  first 
sight  of  many  very  pretty  well-dressed  ladies, 
who,  after  my  long  sojourn  amongst  the  dusky 
squaws,  appeared  to  me  like  the  houris  of 
paradise;  and  I  have  no  doubt  that  I  myself 
came  in  for  a  share  of  staring,  for  I  was  dressed 
in  complete  mountain  costume,  with  my  mahog- 
any-colored face  shaded  by  a  crimson  turban 
a  la  Indien,  and  in  all  the  pride  of  fringed 
deerskin  and  porcupine-quills;  and  I  was  paid 
the  compliment  of  being  more  than  once  mis- 
taken for  an  Indian  chief;  and  on  one  occasion 
I  was  appealed  to  by  two  of  the  dragoons  to 
decide  a  bet  as  to  whether  I  was  a  white  man  or 
a  reclskin.  One  day  I  was  passing  through  the 
dragoons'  stables  when  the  men  were  cleaning 
their  horses,  and  my  appearance  created  no 
little  difference  of  opinion  amongst  the  troopers 
as  to  what  tribe  of  Indians  I  belonged  to. 

"That's  a  Pottowatomie,"  said  one,  "by  his 
red  turban." 

"How  long  have  you  been  in  the  west," 
cried  another,  "not  to  know  a  Kickapoo  when 
you  see  him?" 

"Pshaw!"  exclaimed  a  third;  "that's  a  white 


272     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

trapper  from  the  mountains.  A  regular  moun- 
tain-boy that,  I'll  bet  a  dollar!" 

One  smart-looking  dragoon,  however,  looked 
into  my  face,  and,  turning  round  to  his  com- 
rades, said,  "Well,  boys,  I'll  just  bet  you  a 
dollar  all  round  that  that  Injun's  no  other  than  a 
British  officer.  Wagh!  And  what's  more,  I  can 
tell  you  his  name." — And,  sure  enough,  my 
acquaintance  proved  to  be  one  of  the  many 
deserters  from  the  British  army  belonging  to 
the  dragoons,  and  one  who  had  known  me  when 
in  the  service  myself. 

After  a  few  day's  stay  at  Fort  Leavenworth, 
I  made  preparations  for  my  departure  to  St. 
Louis,  getting  rid  of  my  mountain-traps,  and, 
what  caused  me  no  little  sorrow,  parting  with 
my  faithful  animals,  who  had  been  my  com- 
panions in  a  long  and  wearisome  journey  of 
more  than  three  thousand  miles,  during  the 
greater  part  of  which  they  had  been  almost  my 
only  friends  and  companions.  I  had,  however, 
the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  whilst  with  me 
they  had  never  experienced  a  blow  or  an  angry 
word  from  me,  and  had  always  fared  of  the  very 
best — when  procurable;  and  many  a  mile  I  had 
trudged  on  foot  to  save  them  the  labor  of  carry- 
ing me.  For  Panchito  I  found  a  kind  master — 
exacting,  in  return  for  the  present,  a  promise 
that  he  should  not  be  worked  for  the  next  three 
months;  and,  before  leaving,  I  had  the  satisfac- 


AT  THE  END  OF  THE  TRAIL      273 

tion  of  knowing  that,  in  company  with  three  old 
acquaintances  who  had  pastured  with  him  in  the 
mountains,  he  was  enjoying  himself  in  veritable 
"clover,"  and  corn  unlimited,  where,  I  doubt 
not,  he  soon  regained  his  quondam  beauty  and 
condition. 

The  disposal  of  the  mules  gave  me  greater 
anxiety,  as  there  was  such  a  demand  for  these 
animals  at  the  moment  to  send  with  the  govern- 
ment trains  to  New  Mexico,  that  I  knew  to 
give  them  away  would  only  be  to  put  their 
value  in  the  pocket  of  a  stranger,  and  the 
animals  themselves  into  the  first  wagon  which 
crossed  the  plains.  I  therefore  sold  them  to 
the  commissary  at  the  fort,  and  paid  them  daily 
visits  in  the  government  stables,  where  they 
revelled  in  the  good  things  of  this  life,  and  had, 
moreover,  a  kind-hearted  master  in  the  shape 
of  the  Missourian  teamster  who  had  the  charge 
of  them,  and  who,  on  my  giving  him  a  history 
of  their  adventures,  and  a  good  and  true  account 
of  their  dispositions  and  qualities,  promised  to 
take  every  care  of  the  poor  beasts;  and,  indeed, 
was  quite  proud  of  having  under  his  charge 
such  a  travelled  team.  The  parting  between 
Panchito  and  the  mules  was  heartrending,  and 
for  two  or  three  days  they  all  refused  to  eat  and 
be  comforted;  but  at  the  end  of  that  time  their 
violent  grief  softened  down  into  a  chastened 
melancholy,  which  gradually  merged  into  a 


274     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

steady  appetite  for  the  "corn-dom's"  of  the 
liberal  master  of  the  mules;  and  before  leaving 
I  felt  assured,  from  their  sleek  and  well-filled 
appearance,  that  they  were  quite  able  to  start 
on  another  expedition  across  the  plains. 

A  steamboat  touching  at  the  fort,  bound  for 
the  Mississippi  and  St.  Louis,  I  availed  myself 
of  the  opportunity,  and  secured  myself  a  berth 
for  the  latter  city.  After  running  upon  sand- 
bars every  half -hour,  about  thirty  miles  below 
Independence  we  at  last  stuck  hard  and  fast, 
and,  spite  of  the  panting  efforts  of  the  engine, 
there  we  remained  during  the  night,  and  until 
noon  the  next  day.  A  steamboat  then  made 
its  appearance,  bound,  like  ourselves,  down  the 
river,  and,  coming  up  alongside,  the  two  cap- 
tains held  a  consultation,  which  ended  in  our's 
recommending  his  passengers  to  "make  tracks" 
into  the  other  boat,  as  he  did  not  expect  to  get 
off;  which  interchange  being  effected,  and  our 
fares  paid  to  the  other  boat,  a  hawser  was 
attached  to  the  one  aground,  and  she  was 
readily  hauled  off — we,  the  passengers,  having 
been  done  pretty  considerably  brown  in  the 
transaction.  However,  such  rascalities  as  these, 
on  the  western  waters,  are  considered  no  more 
than  "smart,"  and  are  taken  quite  as  a  matter 
of  course  by  the  free  and  enlightened  citizens 
of  the  model  republic. 

I  must  say  that  since  a  former  visit  to  the 


AT  THE  END  OF  THE  TRAIL      275 

States,  made  three  years  ago,  I  perceived  a 
decided  improvement,  thanks  to  the  Trollope 
and  Boz  castigations,  in  the  manners  and  con- 
duct of  steamboat  travellers,  and  in  the  accom- 
modations of  the  boats  themselves.  With  the 
exception  of  the  expectorating  nuisance,  which 
still  flourishes  in  all  its  disgusting  "mon- 
strosity," a  stranger's  sense  of  decency  and 
decorum  is  not  more  shocked  than  it  would  be 
in  travelling  down  the  Thames  in  a  Gravesend 
or  Herne  Bay  steamer.  There  is  even  quite  an 
arbitrary  censorship  established  on  the  subject 
of  dress  and  dirty  linen,  which  is,  since  it  is 
passively  submitted  to  by  the  citizens,  an 
unmistakable  sign  of  the  times.  As  a  proof 
of  this,  one  evening,  as  I  sat  outside  the  cabin, 
reading,  a  young  man,  slightly  "corned,"  or 
overtaken  in  his  drink,  accosted  me  abruptly: — 

'^Stranger,  you  haven't  ary  clean  shirt  to 
part  with,  have  you?  The  darned  [hiccup] 
capen  says  I  must  go  ashore  bekase  my  'tarnal 
shirt  ain't  clean." 

And  this  I  found  to  be  the  fact,  for  the  man 
was  actually  ejected  from  the  saloon  at  dinner- 
time, on  his  attempting  to  take  his  seat  at  the 
table  in  a  shirt  which  bore  the  stains  of  julep 
and  cocktail. 

The  miserable  scenery  of  the  muddy  Missouri 
has  been  too  often  described  to  require  any 
additional  remarks.  The  steamboat  touched 


276     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

occasionally  at  a  wood-pile,  to  take  in  fuel; 
and  sallow,  aguish  faces  peered  from  the  log 
shanties  as  we  passed.  We  had  the  usual 
amount  of  groundings  on  sand-bars,  and 
thumping  against  snags  and  sawyers;  passed  the 
muddy  line  of  demarcation  between  the  waters 
of  the  Missouri  and  the  "Father  of  Streams," 
and,  in  due  course,  on  the  fourth  day  ran  along- 
side the  outer  edge  of  three  tiers  of  huge  steam- 
boats which  lined  the  wharf  at  St.  Louis. 

We  had  but  one  exciting  episode  during  the 
voyage,  in  the  shape  of  a  combat  between  one 
of  the  "hands"  of  the  boat  (a  diabolical- 
looking  Mexican)  and  the  mate.  The  latter, 
at  a  wooding  station,  thinking  that  the  man 
was  not  sufficiently  "spry,"  administered  a 
palthogue,  which  not  meeting  the  approbation 
of  the  Mejicano,  that  worthy  immediately 
drew  his  knife  and  challenged  the  aggressor. 
The  mate,  seizing  a  log  from  the  pile,  advanced 
towards  him,  and  the  Mexican,  likewise,  drop- 
ping his  knife,  took  up  a  similar  weapon,  and 
rushed  to  the  attack.  After  a  return  of  blows 
they  came  to  close  quarters,  hugged,  and  fell, 
the  Yankee  uppermost,  whose  every  energy 
was  now  directed  to  gouge  out  the  eye  of  his 
prostrate  foe,  while  he  on  his  part,  seizing  the 
eye-scooper  by  his  long  hair,  tugged,  with 
might  and  main,  to  pull  him  to  the  ground. 
With  a  commendable  spirit  of  fair  play,  the 


AT  THE  END  OF  THE  TRAIL      277 

other  "hands"  danced  round  the  combatants, 
administering  well-directed  kicks  on  the  un- 
fortunate Mexican's  head  and  body,  in  all  the 
excitement  of  unrestrainable  valor.  The  cap- 
tain, however,  interfered,  and  secured  a  fair 
field  for  the  gallant  pair;  but  at  length, 
tired  of  the  bungling  attempts  of  his  mate 
to  screw  his  antagonist's  eye  out  of  its  socket, 
pulled  him  off,  and,  giving  the  Mexican  a 
friendly  kick  in  the  ribs,  desired  him  to  get 
up.  That  worthy  rose  undismayed,  and, 
ramming  the  end  of  his  thumb  into  his  eye,  to 
drive  that  organ  into  its  proper  place,  exclaimed, 
"Que  carajo  es  este,  qui  no  sabe  pelear! — what  a 
cur  is  this,  who  does  not  know  how  to  fight!" 
and,  shaking  himself,  sat  upon  a  log,  and  pro- 
ceeded coolly  to  make  himself  a  shuck-cigar. 

A  negro  came  up  to  me  at  Fort  Leaven  worth, 
andv  asked  me  to  allow  him  to  accompany  me 
down  to  St.  Louis.  On  my  saying  that  I  did 
not  require  a  servant  for  so  short  a  distance,  he 
told  me  that,  although  himself  a  free  negro,  yet 
no  black  was  allowed  to  travel  without  a 
master,  and  that  if  he  attempted  it  he  would, 
in  all  probability,  be  seized  and  imprisoned  as  a 
runaway  slave. 

This  reminded  me  that  I  was  in  that  tran- 
scendently  free  country,  ever  boasting  of  its 
liberty  and  equality,  which  possesses,  in  a 
population  of  some  eighteen  millions,  upwards 


278     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

of  three  millions  of  fellow-men  in  most  abject 
yet  lawful  slavery; — a  foul  blot  upon  humanity, 
which  has  every  appearance  of  being  perpetu- 
ated until  the  evil  grows  to  such  a  height  as 
will  end  in  curing  itself. 

This  subject,  which  necessarily  forces  itself 
upon  the  mind  of  all  travellers  in  the  Slave 
States,  is  one  which,  having  received  the  atten- 
tion of  the  most  enlightened  philanthropists  of 
both  hemispheres,  it  would  scarcely  become  me 
to  dilate  upon,  or  even  notice,  did  I  not  feel 
that  every  one,  however  humble,  should  raise 
his  voice  in  condemnation  of  that  disgraceful 
and  inhuman  INSTITUTION,  which,  in  a  civilized 
country  and  an  enlightened  age,  condemns  to  a 
social  death,  and  degrades  (by  law)  to  the  level 
of  the  beasts  of  the  field,  our  fellow-men; 
subjecting  them  to  a  moral  as  well  as  physical 
slavery,  and  removing  from  them  every  possible 
advantage  of  intellectual  culture  or  education, 
by  which  they  might  attain  any  position  a 
grade  higher  than  they  now  possess — the  human 
beasts  of  burden  of  inhuman  masters. 

It  is  adduced  as  an  argument  against  the 
abolition  of  slavery — of  course  by  those  whose 
interest  it  is  to  uphold  the  evil — that  the 
emancipation  of  the  slaves  would,  in  the  present 
state  of  feeling  against  the  negro  race,  be  pro- 
ductive of  effects  which  would  convulse  the 
whole  social  state  of  the  country,  or,  in  other 


AT  THE  END  OF  THE  TRAIL      279 

words,  that  the  whites  would  never  rest  until 
the  whole  race  was  exterminated  in  the  United 
States.  That  there  is  a  physical  impossibility 
to  any  amalgamation  in  the  southern  States  is 
as  certain  as  that,  year  by  year,  the  difficulty 
of  removing  the  evil  is  surely  increasing;  and 
its  very  magnitude  and  the  moral  cowardice 
of  the  American  people  prevent  this  evil  being 
grappled  with  at  once,  and  some  steps  taken  to 
oppose  its  perpetuation. 

The  three  arguments  brought  forward  by 
those  who  endeavor  to  palliate  or  uphold 
slavery,  in  feeble  sophistry,  plainly  exhibit 
the  weakness  of  the  cause.  First,  they  say, 
We  admit  the  evil,  but  the  cure  will  be  worse 
than  the  disease.  We  have  inherited  it:  the 
blame  rests  not  upon  us,  but  our  fathers.  If 
the  negroes  are  emancipated,  what  is  to  become 
of  them?  They  cannot,  and  shall  not,  remain  in 
our  community,  on  an  equality  with  us  and 
our  children,  and  enjoying  the  privileges  of 
white  men.  This  cannot  be.  Moreover,  the 
burden  of  supporting  them  will  fall  upon  us, 
for  they  will  not  work  unless  compelled. 

Secondly:  We  deny  the  sinfulness  of  the  in- 
stitution. Negroes  are  not  men,  but  were  sent 
into  the  world  to  be  slaves  to  the  white  man. 
To  support  this  they  are  ready  with  quotations 
from  Scripture,  and  I  blush  to  say  that  I  have 
heard  well-educated  and  liberal-minded  men 


280     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

take  no  other  ground  than  this  to  support  the 
cause. 

And,  thirdly,  they  say  no  legislation  can 
reach  the  evil.  Law  cannot  deprive  a  citizen 
of  his  property:  if  so,  away  with  liberty  at  once, 
if  one  act  confirms  rights  and  another  removes 
them. 

The  abolitionist  of  the  North  raves  at  the 
slave-owner  of  the  South;  but  let  a  foreigner 
converse  with  the  former,  and  he  will  at  once 
turn  round  and  take  the  part  of  the  slave- 
owner. It  is  like  a  third  person  interfering  in 
quarrels  of  man  and  wife.  "No,  no,  my  good 
sir,"  they  say,  "let  us  settle  this  question 
amongst  ourselves;  this  is  a  family  affair."  No 
one  could  deny  the  justice  of  this,  if  they  really 
made  a  bona  fide  attempt  to  grapple  the  evil; 
but  I  must  confess  that  abolitionism  in  the 
United  States  appears  to  me  to  be  anything 
but  genuine  and  honest,  and  that,  if  left  to 
themselves,  the  question  is  very,  very  far  from 
any  chance  of  settlement,  unless,  as  I  believe 
will  be  the  result,  the  slaves  themselves  cut  the 
Gordian  knot. 

The  great  difficulty  to  be  combated  in  Amer- 
ica, in  freeing  the  country  from  the  curse  of 
slavery,  is  prejudice.  The  negro  is  not  recog- 
nized (startling  as  this  assertion  may  be)  as  a 
fellow-creature — I  mean  by  the  mass  of  the 
people.  This  anomaly,  in  a  country  where  the 


AT  THE  END  OF  THE  TRAIL      281 

very  first  principle  of  their  social  organism  is 
the  axiom,  the  incontrovertible  truth,  that  "all 
men  are  born  equal,"  is  the  more  palpable,  since 
the  popular  and  universal  outcry  is,  and  ever 
has  been,  the  same  sentiment  which  animated 
the  Fathers  of  the  Revolution,  when  they 
offered  to  the  world,  as  a  palliation  for  the  crime 
of  rebellion,  the  same  watchword  which  is  now 
so  prodigally  used  by  every  American  tongue, 
and  so  basely  and  universally  prostituted. 
"All  men  are  born  equal.  Liberty,  therefore, 
and  equal  rights  to  all" — except  to  those  whose 
skins  are  black! 

I  have  heard  clergymen  of  the  American 
church  affirm  their  belief  that  the  negro  was 
placed  on  earth  by  God  to  be  the  white  man's 
slave.  I  have  heard  many  educated,  and  in 
every  other  respect  moral  and  conscientious, 
Americans  assert  that  negroes  were  not  made 
in  God's  image,  but  were  created  as  a  link 
between  man  and  the  beast,  to  minister  to  the 
former's  wants,  and  to  support  him  by  the  toil 
of  their  hands  and  the  sweat  of  their  brows. 

And  when  I  add  that  by  law  it  is  felony  to 
teach  a  negro  to  read  or  write,  what  argument 
can  be  offered  to  combat  such  unnatural  preju- 
dices? I  believe  that  slaves  are  generally  well 
treated  in  the  United  States,  although  many 
instances  could  be  adduced  where  the  very 
reverse  is  the  fact,  particularly  on  the  western 


282  ^  WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

frontier.  But  this  good  treatment  is  on  the 
same  grounds  that  we  take  care  of  our  horses 
and  cows  and  pigs,  because  it  is  the  owner's 
interest  to  do  so;  and  the  well-being — that  is, 
the  physical  healthiness — of  slaves  is  attended 
to  in  the  same  degree  that  we  feed  and  clothe 
our  horses,  in  order  that  they  may  be  in  con- 
dition to  work  for  us,  and  thereby  bring  in  a 
return  for  the  care  we  have  bestowed  upon 
them. 

That  this  question  will  one  day  shake  to  its 
very  centre,  if  it  does  not  completely  annihilate, 
the  union  of  the  American  States,  is  as  palpable 
as  the  result  is  certain.  This  belief  is  very 
generally  entertained  by  both  parties,  and  yet 
in  spite  of  it  the  evil  is  allowed  to  increase, 
although  its  removal  or  cure  thereby  becomes 
hourly  more  difficult. 

Hundreds  of  plans  have  been  suggested  for 
the  abolition  of  slavery,  but  all  have  been  found 
to  be  impracticable,  if  not  impossible  to  be 
carried  out.  Perhaps  the  most  feasible  and 
practicable  was  that  proposed  by  the  late  Mr. 
King  many  years  ago,  and  which  at  the  time 
met  with  the  fate  of  every  other  suggestion  on 
the  same  subject.  Mr.  King,  as  sound  and 
practical  a  statesman  as  the  country  ever 
produced,  proposed  that  a  certain  yearly  sum 
should  be  laid  aside  out  of  the  revenue  derived 
from  the  sale  of  the  public  lands,  to  be  devoted 


AT  THE  END  OF  THE  TRAIL      283 

to  the  emancipation  of  slaves  by  the  purchase 
of  their  freedom.  This  process,  however  slow, 
at  the  same  time  that  it  would  effect  the  gradual 
abolition  of  slavery,  and  at  all  events  effectually 
prevent  its  increase  and  perpetuation,  and  offer 
a  final,  although  distant  termination  to  the 
evil,  was  at  the  same  time  less  calculated  to 
alarm  the  interested  minds  of  the  slave-owners; 
since,  as  the  emancipation  would  be  gradual, 
and  the  compensation  proportional  to  the  loss 
sustained,  their  interests  were  not  so  materially 
affected  as  they  would  be  by  the  entire  removal, 
at  one  swoop,  of  their  vested  rights  of  property 
and  possession.  As  it  is,  however,  there  is  no 
evidence  of  any  positive  action  being  taken  by 
the  legislature  to  effect  the  removal  of  this 
disgraceful  stain  on  the  national  character.  So 
rabid  and  intolerant  is  the  temper  of  the  south- 
ern Npeople  when  this  question  is  mooted,  and 
so  fraught  with  danger  to  the  union  is  the  agita- 
tion even  of  the  subject,  that  all  discussion  is 
shunned  and  avoided,  and  the  evil  hour  pro- 
tracted and  put  off,  which  will,  as  surely  as  that 
the  sun  shines  in  the  heavens,  one  day  plunge 
the  country  into  a  convulsion  dreadful  to  think 
of  or  anticipate.  Meanwhile  the  plague-spot 
remains:  the  foul  cancer  is  eating  its  way;  and 
only  by  its  extirpation  can  the  body  it  dis- 
figures regain  its  healthfulness  and  beauty,  and 
take  its  place  in  the  scale  of  humanity  and 


284     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

civilization,  from  which  the  loathsome  pesti- 
lence has  outpaled  it. 

As  I  have  said,  I  notice  the  subject  merely  to 
add  my  humble  voice  to  the  cry  for  humanity's 
sake,  which  should  never  cease  to  stun  the  ears 
of  the  unholy  men  who,  in  spite  of  every  law 
both  human  and  divine,  use  their  talents,  and 
the  intellect  which  God  has  given  them,  to 
uphold  and  perpetuate  the  curse  of  slavery. 


CHAPTER  XVI 

THE  MEXICAN  WAR 

PROCEEDING,  on  my  arrival  at  St.  Louis, 
to  an  excellent  hotel  called  the  Planter's 
House,  I  that  night,  for  the  first  time  in 
nearly  ten  months,  slept  upon  a  bed,  much  to 
the  astonishment  of  my  limbs  and  body,  which 
long  accustomed  to  no  softer  mattress  than 
mother  earth,  tossed  about  all  night,  unable 
to  appreciate  the  unusual  luxury.  I  found 
chairs  a  positive  nuisance,  and  in  my  own  room 
caught  myself  in  the  act  more  than  once  of 
squatting  cross-legged  on  the  floor.  The 
greatest  treat  to  me  was  bread :  I  thought  it  the 
best  part  of  the  profuse  dinners  of  the  Planter's 
House,  and  consumed  prodigious  quantities  of 
the  staff  of  life,  to  the  astonishment  of  the 
waiters.  Forks  too  I  thought  were  most 
useless  superfluities,  and  more  than  once  I 
found  myself  on  the  point  of  grabbing  a  tempt- 
ing leg  of  mutton  mountain  fashion,  and  butcher- 
ing off  a  hunter's  mouthful.  But  what  words 
can  describe  the  agony  of  squeezing  my  feet 
into  boots,  after  nearly  a  year  of  moccasins, 
or  discarding  my  turban  for  a  great  boardy  hat, 
285 


286     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

which  seemed  to  crush  my  temples?  The 
miseries  of  getting  into  a  horrible  coat — of 
braces,  waistcoats,  gloves,  and  all  such  imple- 
ments of  torture — were  too  acute  to  be  described 
and  therefore  I  draw  a  veil  over  them. 

Apart  from  the  bustle  attendant  upon  load- 
ing and  unloading  thousands  and  thousands  of 
barrels  of  grain  upon  the  wharf,  St.  Louis 
appeared  to  me  one  of  the  dullest  and  most 
commonplace  cities  of  the  Union.  A  great 
proportion  of  the  population  consists  of  French 
and  Germans;  the  former  congregating  in  a 
suburb  called  Vide  Poche,*  where  they  retain  a 
few  of  the  characteristics  of  their  lighthearted 
nation,  and  the  sounds  of  the  fiddle  and  tam- 
bourine may  be  nightly  heard,  making  the  old 
fashioned,  tumble-down  tenements  shake  with 
the  tread  of  the  merry  dancers.  The  Dutch 
and  Germans  have  their  beer-gardens,  where 
they  imbibe  huge  quantities  of  malt  and  honey- 
dew  tobacco;  and  the  Irish  their  shebeen-shops, 
where  Monongahela  is  quaffed  in  lieu  of  the 
"rale  crather." 

The  town  was  full  of  returned  volunteers 
from  the  wars.  The  twelvemonth's  campaign 
they  had  been  engaged  in,  and  the  brilliant 
victories  achieved  by  them,  which,  according 
to  the  American  newspapers,  are  unparalleled 
in  the  annals  of  the  world's  history,  have  con- 

*  The  modern  Carondelet      (Ed.) 


THE  MEXICAN  WAR  287 

verted  these  rowdy  and  vermin-covered  veterans 
into  perfect  heroes;  and  every  batch  on  arriving 
is  feasted  by  the  public,  addresses  are  offered 
to  them,  the  officers  presented  with  swords 
and  snuff-boxes,  and  honors  of  all  kinds  lavished 
upon  them  in  every  direction. 

The  intense  glorifications  at  St.  Louis,  and 
in  every  other  part  of  the  United  States,  on  the 
recent  successes  of  their  troops  over  the  miser- 
able Mexicans,  which  were  so  absurd  as  to 
cause  a  broad  grin  on  the  face  of  an  unexcited 
neutral,  make  me  recur  to  the  subject  of  this 
war,  which  hitherto  I  have  avoided  mentioning 
in  the  body  of  this  little  narrative. 

It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  trace  the  causes  of 
the  war  at  present  raging  between  the  two 
republics  of  North  America.  The  fable  of  the 
wolf  and  lamb  drinking  at  the  same  stream  may 
be  quoted,  to  explain  to  the  world  the  reason 
why  the  soi-disant  champion  of  liberty  has 
quarrelled  with  its  sister  state  "for  muddying 
the  water"  which  the  model  republic  uses  to 
quench  its  thirst. 

A  lesson  has  been  read  to  the  citizens  of  the 
United  States  which  ought  to  open  their  eyes 
to  the  palpable  dishonesty  of  their  government, 
their  unblushing  selfishness,  and  total  disregard 
to  the  interests  of  the  country,  when  those  of 
themselves  or  of  their  party  are  at  stake;  and 
although  in  the  present  instance  President  Polk 


288     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

has  overreached  himself,  and  raised  a  storm 
which  he  would  be  only  too  glad  to  lay  at  any 
cost,  yet,  in  the  whole  history  of  the  Mexican 
war,  the  violence  of  party  and  political  feeling 
is  evident,  from  the  9th  of  May,  1846,  when  the 
first  shot  was  fired  at  Palo  Alto,  to  the  date  of 
the  last  half -score  despatches  which  inform  the 
world  that  General  Scott  "still  remained  at 
Puebla,"  waiting  reinforcements. 

It  is  enough  to  observe  that  the  immediate 
cause  of  hostilities  was  the  unjustifiable  invasion 
of  Mexican  territory  by  the  army  of  the  United 
States  to  take  possession  of  a  tract  of  country 
of  which  the  boundary-line  had  been  disputed 
between  the  Mexican  government  and  one  of 
its  revolted  states,  which  had  been  annexed 
to  the  American  Union  before  its  recognition  as 
an  independent  state  by  the  country  from  which 
it  had  seceded. 

There  can  be  no  question  but  that  the 
United  States  had  deep  cause  of  complaint 
against  Mexico,  in  the  total  disregard  evinced 
by  the  latter  to  the  spirit  of  international 
treaties,  and  the  injuries  inflicted  upon  the 
persons  and  property  of  American  citizens;  all 
redress  of  which  grievances  was  either  totally 
refused,  or  procrastinated  until  the  parties 
gave  up  every  hope  of  ultimate  compensation. 
The  acquisition  of  Texas,  however,  was  in  any 
case  a  balancing  injustice,  and  should  have 


THE  MEXICAN  WAR  289 

wiped  out  all  old  grievances,  at  least  those  of  a 
pecuniary  nature;  while,  if  a  proper  spirit  of 
conciliation  had  been  evinced  on  the  part  of  the 
Americans,  at  the  period  when  the  question  of 
annexation  was  being  mooted,  all  danger  of  a 
rupture  would  have  been  removed;  and  Mexico 
would  have  yielded  her  claims  to  Texas  with  a 
better  grace,  if  taken  as  a  receipt  in  full  for  all 
obligations,  than  in  suffering  a  large  portion  of 
her  territory  to  be  torn  from  her,  against  all 
laws  held  sacred  by  civilized  nations. 

It  is  certain  that  such  consequences,  as  have 
resulted  from  the  advance  of  the  American 
troops  from  the  Nueces  to  the  Rio  Grande, 
were  never  anticipated  by  the  President  of  the 
United  States,  whose  policy  in  bringing  on  a 
quasi  crisis  of  the  state  affairs  on  the  Mexican 
frontier,  and  provoking  the  Mexicans  to  overt 
acts  which  could  at  any  moment  be  converted 
intQ  a  casus  belli,  was  not  for  the  sake  of  terri- 
torial aggrandizement,  but  for  a  purpose  which, 
it  is  known  to  those  in  the  secret  of  his  policy, 
had  an  object  more  remote,  and  infinitely  more 
important,  than  a  rupture  with  the  Mexican 
government. 

At  that  time  the  position  taken  up  by  Mr. 
Polk  and  his  party  with  regard  to  the  Oregon 
question  involved,  as  a  natural  consequence, 
the  probability  of  a  war  with  England;  nay, 
more,  if  such  position  were  persisted  in,  the 


290     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

certainty  of  a  war  with  that  power.  That  a 
majority  of  the  people,  and  all  the  right- 
thinking  and  influential  classes,  were  opposed 
to  such  measures  as  would  hazard  or  produce 
such  a  rupture,  was  so  palpable  that  the  govern- 
ment was  conscious  that  any  proposal  for  mak- 
ing preparations  for  a  war  with  England  (which 
they  knew  a  perseverance  in  their  policy 
would  assuredly  bring  about)  would  not  be 
favorably  received,  or  even  tolerated,  and  there- 
fore they  looked  about  them  for  a  means  of 
attaining  their  object,  by  blinding  the  eyes  of 
the  people  as  to  their  ulterior  designs.  Mexico 
was  made  the  scapegoat.  A  war  with  that 
powerless  state  would  be  popular,  since  its 
duration,  it  was  supposed,  could  be  but  for  a 
very  brief  period,  the  government  having  no 
resources  whatever,  and  being  sadly  deficient 
in  any  of  the  sinews  of  war;  and,  moreover,  such 
a  war  would  be  likely  to  flatter  the  national 
pride  and  conceit  of  the  American  people. 

To  bring,  therefore,  affairs  to  such  a  critical 
position  on  the  Texan  frontier,  that  a  state  of 
war  could  at  any  moment  be  assumed,  and  its 
imminence  be  actually  very  apparent,  was  the 
stroke  of  policy  by  which  Polk  and  his  party 
hoped  to  blind  the  people,  and,  profiting  by  it, 
make  such  preparations  as  would  enable  them 
to  carry  out  their  plans  in  connection  with  the 
Oregon  question  and  the  probable  war  with 


THE  MEXICAN  WAR  291 

England.  They  thought  that,  even  if  hostilities 
broke  out  with  Mexico,  that  power  would  at 
once  succumb;  and,  in  the  meantime,  that  the 
war-fever  in  the  United  States  would  spread, 
and  that  the  people  would  sanction  an  increase 
in  the  army  and  navy  in  such  a  case,  which 
could  at  any  time  be  made  available  for  another 
purpose. 

The  first  shot  fired  on  the  Rio  Grande 
changed  their  views.  Until  then  the  Americans 
were  in  utter  ignorance  of  the  state  of  Mexico 
and  the  Mexicans.  They  never  anticipated  such 
resistance  as  they  have  met  with;  but,  judging 
from  the  moral  and  physical  inferiority  of  the 
people,  at  once  concluded  that  all  they  had  to 
do  was  venire,  videre,  et  vincere.  Children  in  the 
art  of  war,  they  imagined  that  personal  bravery 
and  physical  strength  were  the  only  requisites 
for  a  military  people;  and  that,  possessing  these 
qualities  in  as  great  a  degree  as  the  Mexicans 
were  deficient  in  them,  the  operations  in  Mexico 
would  amount  to  nothing  more  arduous  than  a 
promenade  through  the  table-lands  of  Anahuac 
— the  "Halls  of  Montezuma,"  in  which  it  was 
the  popular  belief  that  they  were  destined 
"to  revel,"  being  the  goal  of  their  military  paseo 
of  six  weeks. 

As  soon,  however,  as  the  list  of  killed  and 
wounded  on  the  fields  of  Palo  Alto  and  Resaca 
de  la  Palma  reached  Washington,  President 


292      WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

Polk  saw  the  error  into  which  he  had  fallen. 
It  became  evident  to  him  that  all  the  resources 
of  the  country  would  be  required  to  carry  on 
the  war  with  one  of  the  most  feeble  powers  in 
the  world,  and  that  the  sooner  he  pulled  his 
foot  out  of  the  hot  water,  which  at  the  tempera- 
ture of  54°  40'  was  likely  to  scald  him,  the  better 
for  him  and  his  country;  for  it  naturally  occurred 
to  him  that,  if  such  a  scrimmage  as  the  Mexican 
war  gave  him  considerable  trouble,  an  affair 
with  such  a  respectable  enemy  as  England  was 
likely  to  prove  anything  but  an  agreeable 
pastime:  and  hence  the  very  speedy  acceptance 
of  Lord  Aberdeen's  ultimatum,  and  the  sudden 
settlement  of  the  Oregon  question. 

As  affairs  now  stand,  and  unless  the  United 
States  very  materially  modify  the  conditions 
under  which  they  signify  their  willingness  to 
withdraw  from  the  Mexican  territory,  and  not- 
withstanding the  avowedly  pacific  proposals  of 
Commissioner  Trist,  it  is  difficult  to  assign  any 
probable  period  for  the  termination  of  the  war; 
and  it  is  certain  that,  as  the  Mexican  armies, 
one  after  the  other,  dissolve  before  the  American 
attacks,  the  farther  the  latter  penetrate 
into  the  country,  the  greater  are  the  difficulties 
which  they  will  have  to  surmount.  Harassed 
by  hordes  of  guerrillas,  with  a  long  line  of 
country  in  their  rear  admirably  adapted  by 
nature  for  the  system  of  warfare  pursued  by 


THE  MEXICAN  WAR  293 

irregular  troops,  and  through  which  all  supplies 
have  to  pass,  to  defeat  an  army  is  but  to  in- 
crease the  conqueror's  difficulties,  since,  while 
before  they  had  one  tangible  enemy  in  their 
front,  now  they  are  surrounded  by  swarms  of 
hornets,  who  never  run  the  risk  of  defeat  by 
standing  the  brunt  of  a  regular  engagement. 

Neither  have  the  invariable  and  signal 
defeats  the  Mexicans  have  met  with  the  same 
moral  effect  which  such  reverses  have  amongst 
more  civilized  nations.  They  take  them  as 
matters  of  course,  and  are  not  dispirited;  while, 
on  the  other  hand,  the  slightest  success  instils 
new  life  and  energy  into  their  hearts.  Until 
the  whole  country  is  occupied  by  American 
troops,  the  war,  unless  immediately  concluded, 
will  be  carried  on,  and  will  eventually  become 
one  of  conquest.  But,  in  the  meantime,  the 
expenses  it  entails  upon  the  treasury  of  the 
United  States  are  enormous,  and  hourly  in- 
creasing; and  it  would  seem  that  the  amount  of 
compensation  for  the  expenses  of  the  war,  which, 
in  money  or  territory,  is  a  sine  qua  non  in  the 
peace  proposals  of  the  American  commissioner, 
is  consequently  increasing  pari  passu,  and 
therefore  the  settlement  of  the  question  becomes 
more  difficult  and  uncertain. 

It  is  extremely  doubtful  if  the  Mexican  people 
will  consent  to  a  surrender  of  nearly  one-third 
of  their  territory,  which  will  most  probably  be 


294     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

required  as  compensation  for  the  expenses  of 
the  war,  or,  what  is  the  same  thing,  be  demanded 
as  a  security  for  the  payment  of  a  certain  sum  of 
money;  and  whether  they  will  not  rather  prefer 
war  to  the  knife  to  the  alternative  of  losing  their 
nationality.  In  reality,  this  war  does  them 
little  harm.  They  were  in  such  a  state  of  misery 
and  anarchy  before  it  commenced,  and  have 
been  for  so  long  a  period  tyrannized  over  by  the 
republican  despots  who  have  respectively  held 
the  reins  of  power,  that  no  change  could  pos- 
sibly make  their  condition  more  degraded;  and 
the  state  of  confusion  and  misrule  attendant 
upon  the  war  in  such  a  country  as  Mexico  is  so 
congenial  to  the  people,  that,  from  my  own 
observations,  I  believe  them  to  be  adverse, 
even  on  this  account  alone,  to  the  termination  of 
hostilities.  Moreover,  the  feeling  against  the 
Americans,  which  was  at  first  mere  apathy,  has 
increased  to  the  bitterest  hatred  and  animosity, 
and  is  sufficient  in  itself  to  secure  the  popular 
support  to  the  energetic  prosecution  of  the  war: 
and  the  consciousness  of  the  justice  of  their 
cause,  and  the  injustice  of  the  unprovoked 
aggression  on  the  part  of  the  United  States, 
ought,  and  I  have  no  doubt  will,  keep  alive  one 
spark  of  that  honor  which  prompts  a  people  to 
resent  and  oppose  a  wilful  and  wanton  attack 
on  their  liberties  and  nationality. 


CHAPTER  XVII 

MEN  AND  MANNERS 

AFTER  a  stay  of  a  few  days  in  St.  Louis, 
in  order  to  rig  myself  out  in  civilized 
attire,  I  went  on  board  a  steamboat 
bound  for  the  Illinois  River  and  Peoria,  intend- 
ing to  cross  the  prairies  of  Illinois  to  Chicago, 
and  thence  down  the  Canadian  lakes  to  New 
York. 

This  river  is  more  picturesque  than  the 
Missouri  or  Mississippi;  the  banks  higher,  the 
water  clearer,  and  the  channel  dotted1  with 
pretty  islands,  between  which  the  steamboat 
passes,  almost  brushing  the  timber  on  the 
banks.  At  Peoria  we  were  transferred  to  stage- 
coaches, and,  suffering  a  martyrdom  of  shaking 
and  bad  living  on  the  road — if  road  it  can  be 
called — we  arrived  at  last  at  Chicago — the  city, 
that  is  to  be,  of  the  Lakes,  and  which  may  be 
termed  the  City  of  Magnificent  Intentions. 

Chigago,  or  Chicago,  is  situated  at  the  south- 
western corner  of  Lake  Michigan,  and  on  the 
lake-shore.  In  spite  of  the  pasteboard  ap- 
pearance of  its  houses,  churches,  and  public 
edifices,  all  of  wood,  it  is  a  remarkably  pretty 
295 


296     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

town,  its  streets  wide  and  well  laid  out;  and  it 
will,  doubtless,  after  it  has  been  burned  down 
once  or  twice,  and  rebuilt  of  stone  or  brick,  be 
one  of  the  finest  of  the  western  cities.  It  has 
several  excellent  hotels,  some  of  which  are  of 
gigantic  dimensions,  a  theatre,  court-house,  and 
an  artificial  harbor,  constructed  at  the  expense 
of  the  city. 

An  American  stage-coach  has  often  been 
described:  it  is  a  huge  lumbering  affair  with 
leathern  springs,  and  it  creaks  and  groans  over 
the  corduroy  roads  and  unmacadamized  cause- 
ways, thumping,  bumping,  and  dislocating  the 
limbs  of  its  "insides,"-  whose  smothered  shrieks 
and  exclamations  of  despair  often  cause  the 
woodsman  to  pause  from  his  work,  and,  leaning 
upon  his  axe,  listen  with  astonishment  to  the 
din  which  proceeds  from  its  convulsed  interior. 

The  coach  contains  three  seats,  each  of  which 
accommodates  three  passengers;  those  on  the 
centre,  and  the  three  with  their  backs  to  the 
horses,  face  each  other,  and,  from  the  confined 
space,  the  arrangement  and  mutual  convenience 
of  leg-placing  not  infrequently  leads  to  fierce 
outbreaks  of  ire.  A  fat  old  lady  got  into  the 
coach  at  Peoria,  whose  uncompromising  rotun- 
dity and  snappishness  of  temper,  combined 
with  a  most  unaccommodating  pair  of  "limbs" 
(legs,  on  this  side  the  Atlantic),  rendered  her 
the  most  undesirable  vis-a-vis  a  traveler  could 


MEN  AND  MANNERS  297 

possibly  be  inflicted  with.  The  victim  happened 
to  be  an  exceedingly  mild  Hoosier,  whose 
modest  bashfulness  prevented  his  remonstrating 
against  the  injustice  of  the  proceeding:  but, 
after  unmitigated  sufferings  for  fifty  miles, 
borne  with  Christian  resignation,  he  disap- 
peared from  the  scene  of  his  martyrdom,  and 
his  place  was  occupied  by  a  hard-featured  New- 
Yorker,  the  captain  of  one  of  the  Lake  steam- 
boats, whose  sternness  of  feature  and  apparent 
determination  of  purpose  assured  us  that  he  had 
been  warned  of  the  purgatory  in  store  for  him, 
and  was  resolved  to  grapple  gallantly  with  the 
difficulty.  As  he  took  his  seat,  and  bent  his 
head  to  the  right  and  left  over  his  knees,  looking, 
as  it  were,  for  some  place  to  bestow  his  legs, 
an  ominous  silence  prevailed  in  the  rocking 
coach,  and  we  all  anxiously  awaited  the  result 
of  the  attack  which  this  bold  man  was  evidently 
meditating;  the  speculations  being  as  to  whether 
the  assault  would  be  made  in  the  shape  of  a 
mild  rebuke,  or  a  softly-spoken  remonstrance  <K^- 
and  request  for  a  change  of  posture,  bencrot 

Our  skipper  evidently  imagined  that  his  pan- 
tomimic indications  of  discomfort  would  have 
had  a  slight  effect,  but  when  the  contrary  was  the 
result,  and  the  uncompromising  knees  wedged 
him  into  the  corner,  his  face  turned  purple  with 
emotion,  and,  bending  towards  his  tormentor, 
he  solemnly  exclaimed — "I  guess,  marm,  it's 


298     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

got  to  be  done  anyhow  sooner  or  later,  so  you 
and  I,  marm,  must  jist  'dovetail.' ' 

The  lady  bounded  from  her  seat,  aghast  at 
the  mysterious  proposal. 

"Must  what,  sir— r?" 

"Dovetail,  marm;  you  and  I  have  got  to  dove- 
tail, and  no  two  ways  about  it." 

"Dovetail  me,  you  inhuman  savage!"  she 
roared  out,  shaking  her  fist  in  the  face  of  the 
skipper,  who  shrank,  alarmed,  into  his  corner; 
"dovetail  a  lone  woman  in  a  Christian  country! 
if  thar's  law  on  airth,  sir-r,  and  in  the  state  of 
Illinoy,  I'll  have  you  hanged! 

"Driver,  stop  the  coach,"  she  shrieked  from 
the  window;  "I  go  no  farther  with  this  man.  I 
believe  I  ar'  a  free  'ooman,  and  my  name  is 
Peck.  Young  man,"  she  pathetically  exclaimed 
to  the  driver,  who  sought  to  explain  matters, 
whilst  we,  inside,  were  literally  convulsed  with 
laughter,  "my  husband  shall  larn  of  this,  as 
shiure  as  shiooting.  Open  the  door,  I  say,  and 
let  me  out!"  And,  spite  of  all  our  expostula- 
tions, she  actually  left  the  coach  and  sought 
shelter  in  a  house  at  the  road-side;  and  we  heard 
her,  as  we  drove  off,  muttering  "Dovetail  me, 
will  they?  the  Injine  savages!  if  ther's  law  in 
Illinoy,  I'll  have  him  hanged!" 

It  is  unnecessary  to  say  that  "dovetailing" 
is  the  process  of  mutually  accommodating 
each  other's  legs  followed  by  stage-coach  and 


MEN  AND  MANNERS  299 

omnibus  passengers;  but  the  term — certainly 
the  first  time  I  had  ever  heard  it  used  in  that 
sense — shocked  and  alarmed  the  modesty  of  the 
worthy  Mrs.  Peck  of  Illinoy. 

A  canal  is  in  course  of  construction  in  the 
State  of  Illinois,  to  connect  the  waters  of  the 
lakes  with  the  Mississippi — a  gigantic  under- 
taking, but  one  which  will  be  of  the  greatest 
benefit  to  the  western  country.  When  this 
canal  is  completed,  the  waters  of  Lake  Superior 
will,  therefore,  communicate  with  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico  by  way  of  the  Mississippi,  as  they  do 
already  with  the  North  Atlantic  by  means  of 
the  Welland  and  Rideau  canals,  which  pass 
through  Canada;  and,  even  already,  vessels  have 
been  spoken  in  mid-ocean,  built  on  Lakes 
Michigan  and  Huron,  cleared  from  Chicago, 
and  Abound  for  England,  passing  an  inland 
navigation  of  upwards  of  three  thousand  miles. 

Leaving  Chicago,  I  crossed  the  lake  to  Kal- 
amazoo,  whence  I  "railed"  across  the  Michigan 
peninsula  to  Detroit,  the  chief  city  of  the  State 
of  Michigan.  This  railroad  was  a  very  primi- 
tive affair,  with  but  one  line  of  rails,  which,  in 
very  many  places,  were  entirely  divested  of  the 
iron,  and  in  these  spots  the  passengers  were 
requested  to  "assist"  the  locomotive  over  the 
"bad  places."  However,  after  killing  several 
hogs  and  cows,  we  arrived  safe  enough  at 
Detroit. 


300     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

I  remarked  that,  since  a  former  visit  to  the 
United  States,  three  or  four  years  ago,  there 
had  been  a  very  palpable  increase  in  the  feeling 
of  jealousy  and  dislike  to  England  and  every- 
thing British  which  has  very  generally  charac- 
terized the  free  and  enlightened  citizens  from 
the  affair  of  Lexington  to  the  present  time.  I 
must,  however,  do  them  the  justice  to  declare, 
that  in  no  one  instance  have  I  ever  perceived 
that  feeling  evinced  towards  an  individual;  but 
it  exists  most  assuredly  as  a  national  feeling, 
and  is  exhibited  in  the  bitterest  and  most 
uncompromising  spirit  in  all  their  journals,  and 
the  sayings  and  doings  of  their  public  men. 
Thus,  in  travelling  through  the  United  States, 
an  Englishman  is  perpetually  hearing  his 
country  and  its  institutions  abused.  Every- 
thing he  admires  is  at  once  seized  upon,  to  be 
tortured  into  a  comparison  with  the  same  thing 
in  England.  But  what  is  more  amusing  is, 
that  it  is  a  very  general  belief  that,  from  the 
Queen  down  to  the  gruel-stirrer  in  Marylebone 
workhouse,  everybody's  time  is  occupied  with 
the  affairs  of  the  United  States,  and  all  their 
pleasures  turned  to  gall  and  wormwood  by  the 
bitter  envy  they  feel  at  her  well-being  and  pros- 
perity. 

In  passing  down  the  lakes,  I  took  a  passage 
from  Detroit  to  Buffalo  in  a  Canadian  steamer, 
which,  by-the-by,  was  the  most  tastefully 


MEN  AND  MANNERS  301 

decorated  and  best-managed  boat  on  the  lake. 
As  we  passed  through  the  Detroit  River,  which 
connects  Lakes  Erie  and  St.  Clair,  we  had  a 
fine  view  of  the  Canadian  as  well  as  the  Amer- 
ican shore;  and  the  contrast  between  the 
flourishing  settlements  and  busy  cities  of  the 
latter,  and  the  quaint,  old-fashioned  villages 
of  the  French  Canadians,  was  certainly  suffi- 
ciently striking.  As  the  boat  passed  Maiden, 
celebrated  as  being  the  scene  of  stirring  events 
in  the  Indian  wars,  and  the  more  recent  one  of 
1812,  I  ascended,  spite  of  the  burning  sun,  to 
the  upper  deck,  in  order  to  obtain  a  view  of 
the  shore,  which  at  this  point,  where  the  river 
enters  the  lake,  is  very  picturesque  and  beauti- 
ful. I  found  a  solitary  passenger  seated  on  the 
roof,  which  was  red  hot  with  the  burning  rays 
of  the  sun,  squirting  his  tobacco-juice  fast  and 
furiously,  and  with  his  eyes  bent  on  the  shore, 
and  a  facetious  and  self-satisfied  grin  on  his 
lank,  sallow  countenance.  His  broad-brimmed 
brown  beaver  hat,  with  dishevelled  nap,  suit  of 
glossy  black,  including  a  shining  black  satin 
waistcoat,  of  course  proclaimed  him  to  be  a 
citizen.  Waving  his  hand  towards  the  Canada 
shore,  he  asked  me  in  a  severe  tone, — 

"What  do  you  call  this,  sir?  Is  this  the  land 
of  the  Queen  of  England,  sir?" 

"Well,  I  guess  it  ain't  nothin  else,"  answered, 
for  me,  the  pilot  of  the  boat.  "But,"  he  con- 


302     WILD  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

tinued,  "it  ain't  a  going  to  be  so  much  longer." 

"Longer,  sir!"  quoth  my  severe  interrogator; 
"too  long  by  half  has  that  unfortunate  country 
been  oppressed  by  British  tyrants.  Look  thar, 
sir,"  waving  his  arm  towards  the  opposite  shore; 
"thar's  a  sight,  sir,  where  a  man  can  look  up  to 
G —  A'mighty's  heavens,  and  bless  him  for 
having  made  him  a  citizen  of  the  United 
States!" 

"A  fine  country,"  I  observed;  "there's  no 
doubt  of  it." 

"A  fine  country,  sir!  the  first  country  in  the 
world,  sir;  and  feeds  the  starving  English  with 
what  it  can't  consume  itself,  sir.  The  phil- 
anthropy of  our  country"  (he  took  me  for  a 
citizen)  "flies  on  the  wings  of  the  wind,  sir,  and 
bears  to  the  hungry  slaves  of  the  Queen  of 
England,  corn,  sir,  and  bread-doin's  of  every 
description.  Yes,  sir!  and  to  show  them,  sir, 
that  we  can  feed  'em  with  one  hand  and  whip 
'em  with  the  other,  we  send  it  over  in  a  ship  of 
war,  which  once  carried  their  flag,  until  it  was 
lowered  to  the  flag  of  freedom.  I  allude,  sir" 
(turning  to  me),  "to  the  frigate  'Macedonian,' 
and  the  stars  and  stripes  of  our  national  banner." 

This  speech,  delivered  in  the  most  pompous 
manner,  and  with  exuberant  gesture,  was  too 
much  for  my  gravity,  and  I  exploded  in  an 
immoderate  fit  of  laughter. 

"Laugh,  sir,"  he  resumed,  "pray  laugh.     I 


MEN  AND  MANNERS  303 

perceive  you  are  not  a  n&tive,  and  your  country- 
men had  ort  to  laugh  without  loss  of  time;  for 
soon,  sir,  will  their  smile  of  triumph  be  turned 
to  a  howl  of  despair,  when  Liberty  treads  to  the 
earth  your  aristocracy — your  titled  lords,  and 
the  star-spangled  banner  waves  over  Windsor 
Palace."  Saying  which,  and  squirting  over  the 
deck  a  shower  of  tobacco-spray,  he  turned 
magnificently  away. 

"A  smart  man  that,  stranger,"  said  the  pilot 
to  me,  giving  the  wheel  a  spoke  to  port— 
"one  of  the  smartest  men  in  these  parts." 
This  I  easily  believed. 

We  had  the  misfortune  to  damage  a  part  of 
the  machinery  just  after  entering  Lake  Erie, 
and  were  compelled  to  wait  until  another 
steamboat  made  her  appearance,  and  towed 
us  back  to  Detroit,  where  it  took  twenty-four 
hours  4o  repair  damages. 

From  Buffalo  I  travelled  by  railroad  to  Al- 
bany, on  the  Hudson,  and,  descending  that 
magnificent  river,  reached  New  York  early 
in  July,  in  eight  travelling  days  from  St.  Louis, 
a  distance  of — I  am  afraid  to  say  how  many 
thousand  miles. 

From  New  York  the  good  ship  New  World 
carried  me  and  a  dozen  fellow-passengers, 
spite  of  contrary  winds,  in  thirty  days  to  Liver- 
pool, where  I  arrived,  sin  novedad,  some  time 
in  the  middle  of  August,  1847. 


OUTING 
A  D YEN  TUR  E 
LIBRARY 

Edited  by  Horace  Kephart 

<I  Here  are  brought  together  for  the  first  time  the  great  stories  of 
adventure  of  all  ages  and  countries.  These  are  the  personal  records 
of  the  men  who  climhed  the  mountains  and  penetrated  the  jungles; 
who  explored  the  seas  and  crossed  the  deserts;  who  knew  the 
chances  and  took  them,  and  lived  to  write  their  own  tales  of  hard- 
ship and  endurance  and  achievement,  The  series  will  consist  of 
an  indeterminate  number  of  volumes — for  the  stories  are  myriad. 
The  whole  will  be  edited  by  Horace  Kephart.  Each  volume 
answers  the  test  of  these  two  questions :  Is  it  true  ?  IB  it  interesting? 
<3  The  entire  series  is  uniform  in  style  and  binding.  Among  the 
titles  now  ready  or  in  preparation  are  those  described  on  the  fol 
lowing  pages. 

PRICE  $1.00  EACH,  NET.    POSTAGE  10  CENTS  EXTRA 
THE  NUMBERS  MAKE  ORDERING  CONVENIENT 

1.  IN  THE  OLD  WEST,  by  George  Frederick 
Ruxton.  The  men  who  blazed  the  trail  across  the  Rockips  to  the 
Pacific  were  the  independent  trappers  and  hunters  in  the  days 
before  the  Mexican  war.  They  left  no  records  of  their  adventures 
and  most  of  them  linger  now  only  as  shadowy  names.  But  a  young 
Englishman  lived  among  them  for  a  time,  saw  life  from  their  point 
of  view,  trapped  with  them  and  fought  with  them  against  the 
Indians.  That  was  George  Frederick  Ruxton.  His  story  is  our 
only  complete  picture  of  the  Old  West  in  the  days  of  the  real 
Pioneers,  of  Kit  Carson,  Jim  Bridger,  Bill  Williams,  the  Sublettes, 
and  all  the  rest  of  that  glorious  company  of  the  forgotten  who 
opened  the  West. 


2.  CASTAWAYS  AND  CRUSOES.     Since  the  begin- 
nings  of  navigation  men    have  faced  the   dangers    of  shipwreck 
and  starvation.     Scattered  through  the   annals  of  the  sea  are  the 
stories  of  those  to  whom  disaster  came  and  the  personal  records  of 
the  way  they  met  it.    Some  of  them  are  given  in  this  volume,  narra- 
tives of  men  who  lived  by  their  hands  among  savages  and  on  forlorn 
coasts,  or  drifted  helpless  in  open  boats.    They  range   from  the 
South  Seas  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  from  the  iron  coast  of  Pata- 
gonia to  the  shores  of  Cuba.    They  are  echoes  from  the  days  when 
the  best  that  could  be  hoped  by  the  man  who  went  to  sea  was  hard- 
ship and  man's-sized  work. 

3.  CAPTIVES  AMONG  THE  INDIANS.  First  of  all 

is  the  story  of  Captain  James  Smith,  who  was  captured  by  the  Dela- 
wares  at  the  time  of  Braddock's  defeat,  was  adopted  into  the  tribe, 
and  for  four  years  lived  as  an  Indian,  hunting  with  them,  studying 
their  habits,  and  learning  their  point  of  view.  Then  there  is  the 
story  of  Father  Bressani  who  felt  the  tortures  of  the  Iroquois,  of 
Mary  Rowlandson  who  was  among  the  human  spoils  of  King 
Philip's  war,  and  of  Mercy  Harbison  who  suffered  in  the  red  flood 
that  followed  St.  Glair's  defeat.  All  are  personal  records  made  by 
the  actors  themselves  in  those  days  when  the  Indian  was  constantly 
at  our  forefathers's  doors. 


4.  FIRST  THROUGH  THE  GRAND  CANYON,  by 

Major  John  Wesley  Powell.  M.jor  Powell  was  an  officer  in  the 
Union  Army  who  lost  an  arm  at  Shiloh.  In  spite  of  this  four  years 
after  the  war  he  organized  an  expedition  which  explored  the  Grand 
Canyon  of  the  Colorado  in  boats— the  first  to  make  this  journey.  His 
story  has  been  lost  for  years  in  the  oblivion  of  a  scientific  report. 
It  is  here  rescued  and  presented  as  a  record  of  one  of  the  great 
personal  exploring  feats,  fitted  to  rank  with  the  exploits  of  Pike, 
Lewis  and  Clark,  and  Mackenzie. 

5.  ADRIFT  IN   THE    ARCTIC    ICE-PACK,  By 

Elisha  Kent  Kane,  M.  D.  Out  of  the  many  expeditions  that 
went  north  in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin  over  fifty  years  ago,  it  fell 
to  the  lot  of  one,  financed  by  a  New  York  merchant,  to  spend  an 
Arctic  winter  drifting  aimlessly  in  the  grip  of  the  Polar  ice  in  Lan- 
caster Sound.  The  surgeon  of  the  expedition  kept  a  careful  diary 
and  out  of  that  record  told  the  first  complete  story  of  a  Far  Northern 
winter.  That  story  is  here  presented,  shorn  of  the  purely  scientific 
data  and  stripped  to  the  personal  exploits  and  adventures  of  the 
author  and  the  other  members  of  the  crew. 


